technically you want your sub to mimic what your front speakes can not. in example if your front towers are rated at 60hz to 20khz, you should set your sub to cut off anything above 60hz.

LFE is 20hz to 200hz. If you have your reciever handle crossover for your sub then it might be wise to set your sub to highest crossover settings unless there is a bypass switch which would totaly defeat subs crossover(no need since you are using recievers)

Optimal is considered 80hz by THX.

Bose uses 200hz or higher for crossover on its subs since the mains are tiny 2" drivers. but then "its all highs and lows, ohh no its bose!!" midrange is what your ears are most sensitive to. you cant just stick 2 tweeters(like bose does) send anything below 300-400hz to subs

unless you have 4+ feet behind your sitting area rear surrounds are overkill on limited budget.

unless you have 20+feet wide front stage DSX wides will do nothing. if you buy large front speakers you dont need prologic IIz heights.

I would also try to match speakers as each brand will have different characteristics for sound, at the you want the setup that is transparent and blends together well. klipsch are horns and bright speakers, def techs are somewhat bright but not like klipschs.

I agree with everything substance says. Bose is basically tweeters and subs, not much midrange.... and overpriced. So that 200 hz crossover doesn't apply to descent speakers.

I would not count on the DSX doing much, matter of fact, most audiophiles prefer not to use any kind of DSP for music listening.

I also feel that brand matching is beneficial as speaker manufacturers have a unique sound to their speakers. I would stick with the same brand, and then get higher models for their center and front left/right speakers.

delete this message, not the topic

this is the scaler

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Premium-3-RC ... 2ebbf96cfe

Plus the left and right as phantom signal so those lower lows are going to be very hard to spot in stereo. unless you're sat really close to the subs or have them place at the same height and sat with them at each side of you're ears a few feet away and playing at soft level as you don't want to wreck you're hearing.

I'd say very little you'd notice besides it sounding good, but stereo I can picture a boom on left and hearing it also on right ear as the size of the low end travels around the room and same for the right sub on the left ear.

One easy quick way is test with headphones and you'd need crossover to cut everything down to say 80Hz or lower and have listen on (closed headphones) that can manage down to 20Hz.

I can cut my LCR down to 20Hz if I wanted to and what's it going to sound like? Let me see now what Laserdisc should I put on the platter?

not sure, it depends on the person and equipment.

laserbite34, since you own omega expensive serious cinema procesors what does the dolby processor say for low cut filters regarding baby boom and 6 channel stereo--was it 20-150, 20-250?

i can't even begin to afford that, it'd kill my mom via the HUGE SPIKE in her utilities bill that we can't pay for.
as for the subwoofers, it'd be like this

LEFT
sub-left/lfe
audssey wide/height left
CENTRE
audssey wide/height right
sub-right
RIGHT.

I don't understand, what do you mean by "splicing the left channel." Do you mean that your planning on having multiple recievers/preamps? Most people will have one receiver/preamp so that all the sources (blu-ray, tape, cd, phono, etc.) feed into that and thus you would not be making multiple connections to the subwoofer. You can't run your phono output directly into the sub.

Remember, there is no such thing as "stereo subwoofers". In a proper setup, if you have the subwoofer making sound and you close your eyes, you should NOT be able to tell from which direction the sound is coming from. It should be omnidirection, unlike the rest of the speakers which are directional. This should be true whether you have one sub, or 10 of them in the room.

Also, as I mentioned before more is not better. Having ten bicycles does not get you to the store faster than one car. You will get better sound quality by spending $500 on one good sub, rather than two $250 mediocre ones. You have a relatively small room so you don't need a very powerful sub, and certainly not more than one good one. You can put 10 subs in there if you want, but ultimately you will just be turning the volume level on each of those to a very low setting as you will find the low end is overpowering when you calibrate the system. You only need more subs if your bass is deficient with the maximum volume of the sub, or if your getting distortion from the sub at the desired level.[/quote]

Plus the left and right as phantom signal so those lower lows are going to be very hard to spot in stereo. unless you're sat really close to the subs or have them place at the same height and sat with them at each side of you're ears a few feet away and playing at soft level as you don't want to wreck you're hearing.

well, this sub has the left channel doubled as the lfe, so i would use a y connector and have it on BOTH left channel pre out and lfe in.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_779X300B/C ... Black.html

Okay since I've had TOTAL RECALL THX Laserdisc (1990) loaded in the DVL-909 for 4 days now as I haven't been watching much Laserdisc this week since last week.





DCX2496 is set at (80Hz) at present. I can dial in any viable frequncy crossovrer above or below the setting at persnet. It can go down to 79Hz 77Hz 75Hz 74Hz 72Hz 71Hz 69Hz 68Hz 66Hz 65Hz 63Hz 62Hz 61Hz 59Hz 58Hz 57Hz 56Hz 54Hz 53Hz 52Hz 51Hz 50Hz 49Hz 48Hz 47Hz 46Hz 45Hz 44Hz 43Hz 42Hz 41Hz 40Hz 39Hz 38Hz 37Hz 36Hz 35Hz 34Hz 33Hz 32Hz 31Hz 30Hz 29Hz 28Hz 27Hz 26Hz 25Hz 24Hz 23Hz 22Hz 21Hz and 20Hz

It would take great skill to get what you want and you need separates otherwise you'd be chasing you're tail around and around till you're blue in the face.

The subwoofer low cut filter is 50Hz 100Hz 180Hz and 250Hz and its presently set at (50Hz) for USER 1 Dolby Stereo and since its not being used at present time for (format 11 external 6 channel) as I need to re-wire the AUX input back up, I use the Sony for discrete channel and the CP500 for Dolby matrix as it sounds better than the Yamaha pro-logic plus it has more options if I want to use A-type on hissy analouge films on Laserdisc or the odd DVD Dolby 1.0 mono film like Casablanca.

is baby boom dual mono or stereo, since the original tracks were lc and rc--STEREO

MONO, its playing the same equal signal twice on stage channels 2 and 4 which is nether here or there today as its no longer used for those channels unless its 70mm film playing somewhere as some are still played and depending on the format encoding on the print.

I read somewhere that changes where made with the release of "close encounters" where they just went with arrays of subs located below the stage channels. As to whether there's any truth about that I don't know but I would say its safe bet.

I did 3min video but its upload time will take over an hour and I'd doubt I'd be able to pick out the sound playback of it very well when played back over the same loudspeakers at full range settings.

Listening to the left and right fronts at 80Hz to 20Hz sounds dull and its making me plus it can f^(k up my JBL 12SR played at high SPL db as they're rated with minimum range of 40Hz.

Setting the DCX down at 50Hz to 20Hz now and its just omnidirectional lows. I'd need larger and higher powered JBL 12" loaded in the 12SR cab and was thinking of JBL 2204 or 2206 as they have range that is bit lower and higher SPL range and handing power that I hardly ever use with way they are currently playing as.

But from 40Hz to 499Hz which is where I sometimes have the crossover set at or I might dial the LF LCR in at 80Hz to 499Hz Linkwitz-Riley -24db. Plus you have to play or design you're playback so it won't p**s off you're mom as lows below 80Hz are going to travel all around the house at high SPL.

The best 35mm Dolby SR THX I've experienced was "Arachnophobia" where lows in the score/music sounded so far down and HIGH and uniform that had me looking from left to right where I can hear or was "listening" and this was all near to end in the wine cellar as its heavily played with score by Trevor Jones, and the lows where pressing on my chest without effort or strain of the THX JBL sound system.

You can't put a source running into the "Left out" on this sub, that preout is simply for the pass through. It only has one LFE input (which is the In L channel). You would use the stereo "left and right in" as a pass-through. In other words there would be two setup possibilities.
1) You would run the source stereo RCA cables into the sub, then the RCA stereo outs from the sub to the receiver.
2) Or you would run the LFE out of the receiver into the sub and no further outputs from the sub.

But once again, I do not understand why you would be trying to run two sources into this at the same time if you have a receiver to manage all your sources?

In conclusion:
Get 1 sub. Your room could be 3 times the size and you would still be ok with 1 sub. Buy the best center and front L and R speakers you can afford (These are the speakers you wll actually be listening to. Spend minimal amounts on the rears and surrounds.

Don't go cheap on the center. If you plan on watching a lot of movies this should be your most expensive speaker. Many home theater experts (whatever that means) recommend spending half the entire speaker budget on the center speaker!

by cheaper i mean less than 300 bucks.

and why only 2 or 3 subs James T MarioKart

TOTAL RECALL (1990) snap around the face nice effect slap on stage right with half of the effect in centre channel.

Someone? We're talking about the fu^king agency.
SHUT UP! (slap)

delete this message, not the topic

Come on, Give the dude a break.

About subs, you can never have too many =). If the sub is good placed you might be more then good with one, but most people cant place the sub anywhere. My personal opinion is that the whole set up looks better with 2 subs, one at each side. But its highly depend on how big budget you are on. Buying one for 500$ or 2 for 250$ each, then the more expensive one would give you a better sub bass if placed right.

And I bet that denon receiver is a beast, if you can live without the hdmi's you cant beat it with that amount of money.

well, i used to think the 3312ci was top dog, then i learned that older heavier receivers are better, because of the dac's, better quality components in the chassis, and saves me the money for an stand alone ac-3 demodulator, and phono is absent on most avr's today (not paying $1000 for a avr with phono)

while it only has a single subwoofer input, not a problem--i can splice the input for 2 subs using a Y-cable, or 2x Y-cable for sub-L and sub-R.
the multi zone jack/preout allows me to connect my current reciever to handle the half channels.

odd that the 5803a and 5805 was my dream reciever, but couldn't afford it.

The only real way for REAL LD-fans are to have a reciever with built in AC-3, A reciever from the period LDs still where made. I still regret the day I gave my VSA-E08 away for nothing, I was so tired of wiring s-video/composite and so to the projector. I wished I had baught some sort of scaler and kept it instead.