I guess the landlady always wants the rent on time?

I was getting to that part,

There is page on ebay a seller that does good cheap prices the it goes upwards a bit depends on the seat. I was lucky to get some rockers as I have been after rockers or wanted rocker seats for some +20 years!





I’m slowly putting 19” pro audio racks together that has started with x1 and has now gone very slow but I’ll get there, no rush.

Recently I have installed The Puck which is an affordable small seat sub transducer tactile device that is really affordable. It take a bit of sussing out in how to get the device to vibrate with minimal effort. If incorrectly placed the user might end up damaging it as these devices can only handle a peak of 30watts which is more than enough in close proximity to the seating and listener.

If levels are too high on the rest of the system the user might think thou its only an illusion, might be forced to turn them up and again damage them. So far after listening/feeling Earthquake chapter 8 DVD R2 DOLBY DIGITAL, twice! I had strange feeling in my as-s for a few hours. Talk about “white finger” (white as-“s now).


My sweet little Moggy Sooty is a dear pet lovely.

The projector is an Hitachi HD ready it can only do 1080i and I’m satisfied once a bed sheet is pulled down and the lights off the transformation is simple cost effective and it seems like being at the cinema. As image and sound become one whole with transparent sound flowing from side to side of larger image rather than smaller image where it doesn’t look right.

I’ve had worked in two cinemas UCI and Warner Bros as projectionist in the past, and UCI hasn’t been used for a long time now.

The projector is covered up at the back with towel over it see it?


This is how the room was early in the year wtching some vintage Empire on CAV


Watching Dances of Wolves on the LCD with bluray 1990 cinema cut only as that is how I saw it and heard it/listening to it! I have a perforated (super micro on the list for the future)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJGegSwV ... _embedded#!

I placed a third order for a The Puck last week should be here around late this next week or early week after? I plan to fit a few more to the backs of the seats from the inside but it would take a bit of doing to prevent it (buzzing and rattling).

I’ll then look at installing them into the floor but that might not happen as it would take a lot of doing but this is how I feel things in real life when travelling on the buses I feel vibration in my feet as well and when you lift your feet off the floor the lows change.

Laserbite34-
Wow you have a boat load of equipment in that room! I like your setup and how you utilized limited space. I agree w/ Julien, you definitely need a bigger screen. I am one of those people that concentrate on the sound as much as the picture, but it seems like your trying to get a "theater" setup, I think you definitely have the audio side taken care of now, but an optimal viewing angle of 30-35 degrees would be the next step. Using a small CRT gets you no where close to that. Also, be careful with the wood beams for the seats,... looks like a fall hazard if somebody needs to use the bathroom in the middle of the movie!

How are the room acoustics? You have so many speakers and such large subwoofers. I see you used some sound proofing foam but still, hardwood floors and a small room make this difficult. Usually with small room/big sound you get a lot of reverb, standing waves, distortion, echoing,... etc. My room is approx 24 ft on each side with cathedral ceilings to help, but I installed some 150 sq ft of sound proofing panels and put down a large carpet to help. I have to admit I don't have any problems even with high volume but I'm always cautious as I like the "clean" sound.

By the way, I love how you have the Indiana Jones LD in the picture!

Yes the floor needs a carpet and that is not a big deal to sort out carpet tiles make nice patterns and they’re cheaper on ebay and easy to cut to fit into the room its the glue that will be the costly part.

For most parts the room as stillness with less brighter walls its the ceiling and floor that needs to be addressed and tamed now.

Loudness sounds cinematic like as the 12SR have high sensitivity on the LF and HF and bass mid nice kick and feel that I wasn’t getting with smaller JBL control 5 like in STAR TREK II were Joachim pushes the tactile counsel thing device into the wall “They still have raised the shields” now that I could feel in a THX cinema like the CIC/Empire Leicester Square on Sunday 8th October 1989 via the DOLBY STEREO 70mm blow-up print.

I’m listening and looking for the little details and the 12SR needs a bit taming of middle range as it can drown out the rest of the mix, so I trim the crossover down on LF as its bright mid heavy and the mids still mange to get into the room on my ear and the RTA. But the timing is spot on and feeling can easily reach over 100dbc for short term peaks.
Sub has been readjusted adjusted the smaller control 5 where bass mid can now at least keep up with LFE.1 without overriding it into silly SPL db levels.

It’s impossible for me to fit smaller JBL single 15” bass mid at the front the smallest of yesterdays is the JBL 4671A that would outstanding justice in a small room, but the HF would be far too high up close to the ceiling.

The surrounds was the biggest challenge to get even all-around surround so when all the seats are in place, each seat should be better than the front middle seat (I hope).

Every room has standing waves and I know where there are in the room and they happen at many frequencies up and down and when moving around well its like real life even real life has them if you listen. I don’t sweat it much now as I have had plenty of time to see on frequency graphs what is the best spot/s in the room and the worst but the worst can be made to sound great I don’t sweat it.

All I need is enough smaller subs around the room to iron out the issues in the lows but the seats have bass shakers and that has no standing wave null issues for me or anyone else to worry about.

The CRT is staying put! If a guest comes around then I might use the LCD video projector which has had little use and the lamp maybe good for another few years, as I know the score with home cinema. Home cinema makes 0% profit and its all got to be funded by “us” where cinema makes profit to keep, those expensive KW xenon’s running all year around.
The image from the CRT was not easy as the camera is pain in the as0-s to suss out. I used flash slow-sync that kinder keeps some flash and helps to prevent the image on the CRT from going too dark or too bright. Its still a little over-bright as camera doesn’t handle bright contrast levels too well.

In fact RAIDERS OF THE LOST ARK makes the DVD THX look shameless! The THX DVD is over-bright and some image detail is washed out! I thought THX was into perfect picture pereect sound because even the lows on the PCM laserdisc DOLBY STEREO are deeper than the DVD in some areas if you listen.

When Indy finds Marion, alive the John Williams score has deep tympani beat that vibrates the seats from the sub bass extension for a few seconds the DVD sounds like fish being slapped around my face.

So be aware of the so called perfect dts hd master audio LOL I bet they use that on the bluray same version ripped from the DVD version with no credit of using DOLBY TrueHD and Indy films were born with DOLBY sound! Check it out!

Also the biggest problem that still hasn’t changed and won’t change with home cinema is the TV flat screen doesn’t mean better your still back at square one! Which is where to place the matching LCR?
Preferably above and kinder like how I approached it because I only need to drop the bed sheet down and lights off it’s transformed without spending thousands!!

The image on the proctor has been aligned so the LCR fits within the image framing.

LCR placed on the floor even aimed upward and I still find myself looking downwards and being WAY distracted from the image. Placed slightly above I still find myself looking upwards but my vision is still catching the image, but not as well when the bed sheet is dropped down and a projected image larger and more falter than any flat screen on the market.

Mains Power Cable has turned up (£19-99) 100 meters for JBL loudspeaker revamping which is long overdue.

Looks like I’ll be spending the next day in the JBL control room doing a Total Re-Wire!

100 meters of mains power cable to be used I’d need at least two runs per each LCR for LF/HF at around equal lengths mind you, 10 across the front and other 10 trailing back to the amps so 20 feet I mean 40 feet per LCR.

laserbite34...
WOW man....
ALL I can say is WOW !!!
Hope your cat can go outside !!! LOL
Would like to know future tweaks and additions you have in mind.....
About that re-wire..... a king's fortune !?! LOL

Cheers and to be square and honest it’s not going to be a whole lot of big deal. The cables for last set-up was bits of cable wired together due to shortage LOL It was suppose to be re-wired early in the year. All it means is the cable is new and there will be no more attaching lose ends together.
As for Moggy he’s an indoors cat and he loves his stool sitting on watching what is going on in the living and nicely trained he knows he’s not to come into the living room no more until its ready, ready!!
So far I have only right channel wired up and got to finish off Centre/Left.
The mains cable boxes have to be tired up considerable as it looks like a “spaghetti western” behind the rack LOL

WICKED LASERDISC COLLECTION!
I'm not worthy! I'm not worthy!

I don't know if you know this or not but LD's and DVD's are authored with different brightness standards. DVD's are much brighter and you have to use different settings on your TV when playing from a DVD player and your LD player. I forgot how much brighter they are (there is a scientific brightness standard difference), I'm sure one of the members here can tell us but it's a substantial difference. You have to program different calibration settings in for your TV if your going to switch from DVD/Blu-ray to LD, it's an absolute must and they are not even close. With DVD and blu-ray you can pretty much use the same settings but this is NOT the case with LD vs the other formats. When I watch movies on my projector I have to switch the settings. If your TV supports "profiles" then it's just a few clicks, but if it doesn't you have to go through all the adjustments one by one,... which would be very time consuming for every time your switching between the LD player and other sources.

^^^I have to always manually adjust often brightness for the blacks and contrast for the whites (but only brightness) often needs a slight up or down on some program material.

Alien (1979) on laserdisc CAV box-set edition is overall brighter than the DVD and the second edition release of Alien the quad box release is even more darker and I dislike that version its rubbish and I prefer the Alien 20th anniversary edition it beats the hell out of the bluray by light-years, where the bluray is simple rip from quad box set with lousy cropped framing of the scope 2.35:1 and rubbish sound re-mix where the first edition region 1 wins hands down and its not a preference issue, I like to see what I saw at the cinema and the bluray is not it.

Don’t they make an AVR where the it has brightness contracts colour and hue settings as its each video output device is feed though the AVR then it’s out from the AVR main video output to the TV or video projector. That is where the adjustment needs to be made, but it would be simple for the user to buy a video colourer controller of a sort with multi inputs outputs and address the tiny variables.
But it only takes me a mere few seconds and it’s done.

I read that brightness boast was done for daytime viewing or something wow what a poor excuse. I mean is cinema watched in an auditorium with the house lights turned up!

You know much viewing my two bluray players might see from a bluray disc, almost 70% most of the time its a DVD playing in the machine, I just finished re-watching Hostage (2005) on DVD and the bluray doesn’t seem worthwhile as the colour balance looks to be about the same and often its only a colour tweak to delude us all. After I watched Copycat (1995) on DVD and I’m quite satisfied to watching it again cool score by Christopher Young, some parts sounded like Species of the smae year (1995).

Oh other film I noticed and I thought it was poor transfer when it wasn’t its rather a good colour balance transfer for My Science Project (1985) and the open I was thinking wasn’t there more detail in the blacks when I saw this on VHS PAL years ago? I had to only turn the brightness up a few notches and picture was singing colours and brightness and I was chuffed, then afterwards I have to remember to set the brightness back down a bit.

Too bad I just took a look at Laserdisc Copycat and its highly probably for laserRot sigh doesn’t that just suck. I’m surprised it’s not an Dolby AC-3 release?

Actually, the best place for video adjustment is on the last step (ie TV, projector, etc) for high def material. The receiver really should just pass through the video signal through to the output for best picture with high def material. However, as LD's will need upscaling for 1080p displays/projectors the upscaling is best done by whichever has the best upscaler. For cheap receivers this will most likely be the TV but for more high end receivers it will probably be the receiver. If both components are not high end, then a separate upscaler can be bought. These will range from not much money to thousands of dollars depending on the upscaler.

As for the brightness issue. All LD's should be already calibrated to certain brightness standards (and DVD to their own). This means you should only need two settings, one for DVD and one for LD. It's too bad the TV doesn't have memory settings for display. This is one reason that I really like my Epson 8700ub projector. It makes it a one button press menu to load the settings.

The best solution is to buy a calibration disc. For DVD's they are easy to find. You can even use the included THX calibration found on many discs. You should also get some tinted glasses for the color correction (they sell them on the THX website). They have calibration discs for LD's but they are hard to find. For the LD's you may have to eye ball it. Not ideal but doable.

The problem is inconsistent mastering, & often inconsistent film-to-video transfers. While the video engineer has measurable targets he works to, if the person doing the transfer decides to mess with the levels, the person responsible for making the discs is pretty much stuck.

Your absolutely right, there will be some variation. However, when the ideal calibrated brightness settings are different for the formats (like DVD vs LD) you will need two distinct settings when watching and there will be no overlap between the two formats. While there will be some minor movie to movie differences in the same format, LD is just way brighter than DVD in essentially all cases.

DVDs are supposed to be mastered with what is known as "0 IRE setup". US LDs are (usually) mastered with "7.5 IRE setup", so the black level is enough higher to be noticeable. Japanese LDs, however, have (again, usually) 0 IRE setup, so the blacks may appear either deeper or crushed, & the colours will be different, if a calibration done for US LD is used. It may be necessary to have three settings.

I use THX calibrated disc it’s on my equipment list.

Yeah brightness goes down so does the colour or rather everyone starts looking like lobsters.

I was wondering while looking though one members laserdisc collection I noticed Dante’s Peak Japanese would that version be clear of laserRot issues as its pressed in different factory unlike the US NTSC versions that I have tried.

The Puck (sub bass shaker) rattled the seat hugely with Jurassic Park from PAL PCM DOLBY STEREO laserdisc.
The wiring will be neatly hidden one all six seats are permanently installed.

The third Puck should turn up sometime next week for the right hand seat. I thinking maybe x2 or x3 per seat to extended the lows or poundage shake further. The Puck is held on with some double sided tape which has nice bonding to seat and device.

Music and film seems to work and I don’t understand why some think music doesn’t work? Just make some quick manual adjustments and it seems to work on pop songs from Jean Michael Jarre to Madonna.

The tiny little Puck-ers are powered by a Marantz 1030 amplifier with additional crossover filtering from a vintage Harman Kardon AVP 1a and the bass EQ on the AVP1a works nicely.

i go to nh once in a while, i got some freinds up there, maybe i could stop by some day

Is it the LD's that are mastered with a different IRE Setup or is it the laserdisc players themselves that operate at a different IRE setup? Japanese vs. US
I do tend to notice a deeper richness in the blacks with Japanese LD's but I don't tend to notice much difference in brightness. That is played on a US made LD player. Now I did have a friend digitize some Japanese LD's with a Japanese LD player and the recordings were far to bright. I suggested that he change the IRE setting on the capture box to 0. This solved the problem.

Elvis

The setup is a characteristic of the video that is recorded onto the master tape used to make the disc. In Japan, 0 IRE setup is the standard, & almost all master tapes will be recorded that way ; in the US it is 7.5 IRE. Different players may give somewhat different results, owing to different values of video gain, nonlinearitites in the FM demodulation circuits, et cetera, but I would not expect this to be a consistent difference between countries where those players were sold.

If that's the case, would having the "D-EXT" function on your LD player (which from what I've read, is the proper black levels for Japanese LD usage or something to that extent) help ease the calibration of the picture on a US TV or HDTV?

Unless I'm badly mistaken, the purpose of the D-EXT function on the HLD-X9 is to change the video level of US LDs to match the video level of Japanese LDs. In other words, it will shift the black level from 7.5 IRE 0 IRE, probably by "stretching" so that white peak is still 100 IRE. I'd need to hang a scope off one to be certain. Of course, using it when playing back a Japanese LD will give undesirable results.

As a result, you would be able to use one calibration for both US & Japanese discs with much less variation in picture appearance.