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Posted: 10 May 2020, 08:37 

Watched the rise of skywalker. Some absolute rubbish.

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Posted: 12 May 2020, 01:16 

Yes send an email to Lumagen. They will likely sell you the correct power supply or point you to the right one.

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 Post subject: Re: Upscale before capture?
Posted: 16 May 2020, 22:06 

Capturing from Laserdiscs takes some compromise as there isn’t a perfect setup. All capture cards in existence lack the good y/c separation which is essential for good Laserdisc video. There is really one or two Laserdisc players with good s-video output (y/c already separated). You will need an interface to take care of this step externally. Out of all the devices I have tested Lumagen Radiance 2144 and Crystalio II came close to perfection (in the order best to very good). These video processors don’t output video at 480i which is the native output format of Laserdiscs (or closest). They will output 480p or above which means they do de-interlacing also (one extra step from the purest form). Most video video processors if not all convert the rec.601 color space (SD color gamut) to rec.709 (HD color gamut) before any output. This will cause issues with the capture gear because it will expect rec.601 when fed 480p. To avoid color issues, I would chose to output in HD resolutions of 720p or 1080p. Now the capture card will apply the correct color decoder of rec.709.

So you can use the composite output of your laserdisc player then you are in the mercy of your capture cards inferior y/c separation or you can use an external box. But due to the way these devices were design, you will need to do multiple steps before you feed your signal to your capture device. In my opinion a good y/c separation is more important than great deinterlacing or scaling you could in PC. Both Crystalio II and Lumagen Radiance won’t be far behind of any PC processing (but PC can still do better with multiple passes).

I would recommend 720p60 for video based material and 1080p24 for film based material. At these resolutions there is not much point in post processing.

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Posted: 17 May 2020, 05:00 

This is the reply I got from Jim at Lumagen.

“ Looking at the back of the XE unit the jack has Ground on the lower left and +12 on the upper left.

Someone with basic soldering skills could transfer the plug to another 12 VDC at 2.5 Amp (or more current) power brick.

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Posted: 17 May 2020, 21:52 

Theta Voyager $6,500 + options (progressive scan, digital sdi and serial control add ons)

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Posted: 17 May 2020, 22:08 

Like others suggested it depends on your budget and what you want as essentials.

If you go with the TV route, OLEDs are significantly better than others and significantly more expensive. The 65” versions are somewhat reasonably priced compared to a few years ago but the 77” models are still very expensive. Very last generation Panasonic and Pioneer plasmas would be my next choice if you don’t care for 4K. They will beat any LCD and CRT by a margin.

On the projector side, you can get a really nice used JVC projector if you don’t need 4K. Projectors drop value like a rock once a newer generation is out. What was used to be $15,000 JVC flagship 1080p projector is now barely $1,500. Sony also makes good projectors but can’t compete with JVC in black levels. If you do want a 4K projector then your options are very limited. They start at $4,000 but to be honest you need to get at least the $15,000+ laser models for decent light output in HDR. A good screen is also a must in any projector setup, ideally with masking. Screens hold their value well so even in the used market, it will be a few grand for a really good one.

If you must have at least 75” (which eliminates any plasma which caps at 65”) and you are on a budget then any name brand LCD will do. They have come to a point most of them have great picture (not counting shortcoming of the LCD technology).

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Posted: 18 May 2020, 23:40 

Well EAC-3 or DD+ is not supported on Coax or Optical. It is supported on HDMI profile 1.3 and newer. It is likely a compatibility issue. Most video processors predates HDMI profile 1.3. These below are the only ones I know that pass DD+.

DVDO Edge/duo
Lumagen Radiance XE/XS 3D and newer

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Posted: 24 May 2020, 02:26 

I don’t think there ever was a true high end audiophile oriented RF demodulator. None of them have a linear power supply but some of them have good filtering (McIntosh, Meridian i.e). Clean power has direct effect to Spdif (coax, toslink) output with much lower jitter which in turn will result much less errors. On such a low bitrate lossy audio format, I doubt there would be an audible difference unless it’s an extremely revealing system (think $200k+)

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Posted: 24 May 2020, 02:49 

Yes, underwater films are actually quite nice. I understand what you mean. I actually like U boat films and I thought that both Hunt for Red October and
Crimson Tode are excellent.

I have never seen Deep Blue Sea ( can't stand LL Cool J ) but I did see the Meg and I thought it was ridiculous.


LL has a small part in Deep Blue Sea. He is not on the cover but Thomas Jane has a large role and he is great as always. These aren’t really great movies but they are great for what they are. They are the modern equivalent of B-movies of the 70s and the 80s (and the 90s). You have to watch them with a certain mindset. If you expect great things you will be disappointed but then again not everybody has to like them. Movies like the Abyss are meant for much larger crowds they take things more seriously (they have much larger production value to allow all this).

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Posted: 24 May 2020, 22:50 

When you say “fewer errors”. What is you experience with this in testing? Every digital audio connection I’ve closely monitored produces about one error an hour, utterly impossible for any human to detect, and I don’t own anything high end at all. Reducing it to an error every two hours isn’t going to do much IMO.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grzoqEb2KMk
(Edited, please use the YouTube tags)

Try this video, he explains digital audio very well. As an electrical and computer engineer who has spent countless hours reading on this matter and listened to a number of equipment I can vouch for all his claims.

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Posted: 19 Jun 2020, 23:05 

It’s not the asking price but the rude behavior.

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Posted: 20 Jun 2020, 16:39 

Go lower gauge. Shielding less important on speaker cables.

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 Post subject: Re: Laserdiscs on the wall
Posted: 24 Jun 2020, 20:36 

My ranking

RAM
Discovery
Homework
Human After All
Tron (Great soundtrack)

RAM also sounds really good. I believe it was mastered in 24/44.1kHz. I have the CD, LP and the 24/44.1 masters in ALAC. They all sound great but the 24b master is a league on its own. It is rare to have really well mastered popular music on high res lossless formats.

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Posted: 26 Jun 2020, 15:58 

I bought the thick cable and I will install it today !

One more question : my last cable became green because of oxydation in 2 or 3 yearts only...
Should I use banana plugs to avoid that ? Or is it useless ? If it s better, any banana plug will work well, or should I buy specific ones ?


You can use banana plugs. They won’t degrade sound. They will delay oxidation significantly.

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Posted: 06 Aug 2020, 01:55 

For that much money, I would look for a McIntosh MLD-7020 or two.

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Posted: 13 Aug 2020, 20:25 

I am not sure I understand the purpose of your post. If you already know LV520 is a CLD-704 clone then you surely know how much it is worth as well. I agree with signo on the warranty. They can’t repair it and replace it.

As for 4K integration, it is probably much easier now than before. There is a ton of posts from the HD and full HD era. A lot of people read the old threads and buy old equipment. It’s not apples and apples anymore. Newer 4K TVs are better in every aspect. They process old video better too. All that old info on the internet does not apply to newer TVs. You will likely get better performance plugging your LD player directly into your TV.

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Posted: 13 Aug 2020, 22:48 

No I sincerely didn’t understand why you asked if it was worth it, especially since you answered your own question in the next paragraph;) I was sorta complimenting you know your Marantz unit is a 704 clone. Because I didn’t know that and I know everything.

We like some traffic here. I appreciate you start one now. And as you noticed I recommended against doing a search on the old posts for your modern equipment. I don’t use the video capabilities of audio equipmentS myself. I don’t have any experience in here. I would expect them to progress the same way as newer TVs. Your main issue is going to be your screen size. On a projector screen everything will show. I think you would benefit from a cleaner player like 95,97 and S2 before an expensive video processor.

Not sure on the warranty. They usually give you market value or comparable model. I wouldn’t be shocked if they offer you an upscaling dvd player as a replacement and say this is what replaced LDs lol
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