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Posted: 12 Feb 2015, 18:58 

Gave Ghost Rider a spin a few days ago. French Import. Stunning PQ , great sound :thumbup:
Not the best movie around but fun to watch :lol:

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Posted: 02 Sep 2018, 17:11 

VNL-1684 aka the Pizza Table :D

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Posted: 02 Sep 2018, 17:21 

Close up :clap:

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 Post subject: Re: LD-V4400
Posted: 09 May 2019, 06:55 

once I drilled a small hole and used a triangular "file" (not sure about the term in english) to make the optical square fit. It takes much patience.
Used a back panel from a next. gen player as a template. once again it takes patience cutting it this way.

On my cld-d515 I cut the backpanel around the location where the optical is positioned now and put in that partical piece of backpanel coming from a cld-d925 along with the components from the 925. I used the disc grinder with a 1 mm disc to allow for accurate positioning. besides a narrow cut it looks great.

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 Post subject: Re: Selling my player(s)
Posted: 08 Dec 2019, 18:05 

It's all gone meanwhile.
Sold the last player along with the 5 tapes.

Another format I parted with after hddvd.

No regrets, Happy to have owned it, enjoyed it.

Sold most of the stuff to serious collectors so it's all in the right hands.
Half a year it took me finding the right buyer(s)
It's all so nice but in the end one can't focus on so many different formats IMHO.
Since I have little to no knowledge about vcr's in general and the actual tapes remain a tape wear related system I decided to pass it on.
I'm sure some fellows out there figure out a way to keep all those gorgeous machines running for years to come.

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Posted: 31 Mar 2020, 10:26 

I suspect some CU-CLD remotes share the same electronics inside...?
Interesting. I haven't thought about this. I have disassembled many backlit remotes (usually to properly stop corrosion), but I haven't paid attention to the components. Looking back at photos of a CU-CLD121 and CU-CLD098 that I happened to take, the boards are marked ALPS which I believe is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alps_Electric

I don't like disassembling these if I don't have to, but the next time I do I'll document all the components.


so I compared the internal print boards

CU-CLD117 (cld99)

CU-CLD108 (HF-9G)

both share the same basic board ALPS BCR970104A with following differences:

CU-CLD117 has yellow leds installed

CU-CLD108 has red leds installed

Both remotes feature the CH mode and Graphics button but it is not on the outer body of the cu-cld117 since the cld-99 didn't come with the LD-G option.
Both of these have NO JOG and Shuttle led installed and it isn't even there on the outher body.
Many other remotes do have this led installed on the more common players.

Another remote I happen to own is the CU-CLD109 that also includes all buttons with the same print (ALPS BCR907104A) inside yet they did not fit the leds or the actual push button on the print! This remote has a red jog and shuttle led left fitted next to the actual dial like many others btw.
This remote has the outer body of a standard type remote lacking the side button to push illumination. like many remotes out there it has the ribbons on each side molded in plastic but nothing functional about that.

I think this info might be interesting to repair or use donor parts with players that didn't come with the right or no remote!
You might be able to build yourself a functional remote from a japanese player or US model player that need the V-dnr thing or LD-G option. it works both ways with these.

Beware the remotes for the cld-703 & 704 have a v-dnr option but the layout is different and there is no select option!

hope this helps someone out there

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Posted: 03 Apr 2020, 15:35 

CU-CLD098 shows BCR970102B.

Can you read what is on the two ICs? In all my photos, it is too blurry to make it out.

on the HF9 remote CU-CLD108

one reads,

Nec Japan
D6600 712
9606B3001

the other,

Nec Japan
D6125A 201
9610F3002


On the CU-CLD109

one reads,

D6600 712
9433A3001

the other,

D6125A 192
9428F3003

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Posted: 02 May 2020, 18:59 

Talk to the seller first. Who knows it won’t be a problem returning it. Might not be economical to return it ... what title is it to begin with?
A known rotter?

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Posted: 28 May 2020, 19:17 

easy enough on a cld-d515. connect the trace after r895. put the cap behind the actual toslink once fitted. cutting the hole can be challenging.... I simply robbed a piece of back panel from a donor player....

Pioneer S315,D515 DTS mod (WORKING)

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Posted: 27 Aug 2020, 22:13 

Drive without a doubt.

Imagine the Criterion release :clap:

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Posted: 30 Aug 2020, 21:16 

the black prc hub on the spindle might be broken!

take the bonnet off and check the spindle motor. there is a black three legged plastic on top of the motor to center the disc. this holds down a spring... if one leg breaks....

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Posted: 21 Mar 2021, 13:09 

the Power supply from a cld-d925 should fit this player. schould be easy enough just swapping it out!

take some pics of the power supply to be sure! I have fitted cld-d2950 PS into my cld-hf9g and cld-99 elite player. All recapped btw!

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Posted: 05 Apr 2021, 13:28 

Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you all know that my brother and I managed to successfully mod the player. Works like a charm!

Many thanks, once again, to all those that helped make this happen. :)


great'
I have succesfully installed the boards from ebay. I ussually remove the optical output.

This photo is a cld-d515 with a part cut of the backpanel coming from a donor player I did years ago.
I only soldered in the missing components on the original main board

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Posted: 09 Apr 2021, 16:42 

Still thinking this is something mechanical. Wobbly back panel or bent crossbars, clamper etc.

Next time it gets caught up searching, try applying gentle pressure to those parts and see if it makes it better or worse.

changed the top clamp today and succes!
I opened up the top clamp. there is a washer sitting in between and this turned out to be worn.
the white plastic round washer looks like it has been worn in the middle by the years of spinning. the ball bearing is to blame for that after all these years!
I took plyers to take it of and found it is simply held by glue and a sort of rubber cushion in between the metal bracket and plastic washer.
no more doubts when spinning up now!

I have some scrap cld-2950's around that use the identical loading assy etc.
I knew they would come up handy one day.

Thank you for the advice on this. mechanics can be challenging small things that make you think....

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Posted: 15 Jan 2023, 09:57 

I should open up both and have a look inside.
Own the 230volts and a switched one.
Did anyone here give this a try anyway?
Hope it is as simple as soldering the connection in place

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Posted: 10 Feb 2023, 17:27 

Any of you genius people have any idea where to tap rf signal and mute?
A little project that escaped my mind after adding (dts) digital out to the 4400

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Posted: 18 Aug 2023, 12:21 

The D925 is the same mechanical design as the 59. You could have a broken M-Holder in the D925. But the F6 error means either the laser RF signal is getting low or the M-Holder pins holding the movement gears are broke it is is having trouble positioning to read the index.

You could also try cleaning the laser lens to see if there is any difference.

Thanks for the tip. Had a d925 for some years I didn't get around checking out.
Occasional F6 error when returning to side A only curiously. never an issue going to B ... guess gravity did it's thing there.
Turns out the grey motorholder had the small pin broken holding the gear somewhat in place making it not focus from time to time. First one I encounter that didn't snap in two pieces.
Much appreciated info. easily overlooked since it appeared to be an OK motorholder.
Up and running once again.

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Posted: 26 Oct 2023, 05:34 

Most likely a broken motorholder. The pin holding the small gear may have broken causing friction when moving out of position. Gravity does not help. The only way is checking this by removing the motorholder. If it’s using the grey plastic motorholder chances are it snapped. It is a common issue
The part is available these days generic. Contact Ethan Gallo is my advice

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Posted: 26 Oct 2023, 05:44 

Thank you, that sounds spot on, because I can see that the gear is hanging loosely at an angle.

Do you have a link to contact Ethan?

He is active here on the forum…

https://www.laserparts.net/

The part you need is vnl-1779 btw :thumbup:
Installing the part is easy enough…
https://youtu.be/R21SbXIVAew?si=5C7dUTUG8ftsYECf

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Posted: 27 Oct 2023, 05:37 

Repaired two ld players with the generic vnl-1779 part and they both are running fine for over a year now. The price is reasonable for a 3D print IMHO
Time will tell if they hold up but the alternative being having a broken unit doesn’t sound like fun either.
Ethan went trough alot of effort finetuning the part. I tested some of the first printed ones that needed some finetuning and after a few months the right specs were reached. I sold both players to close friends and they have zero issues with the generic part . Did some testing myself for a few months. No complaints.
The prc hub, the grip rings for other machines all work fine and believe me I saved many players buying generic

Keep them spinning I say

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Posted: 01 Nov 2023, 17:32 

I remember bringing in my cld-1950 at the time to have the ac-3rf out added.
Left the player in the shop for some hours and went ld shopping elsewhere :lol:
Sure enough picking up the player you got robbed once again by paying for Clear and present danger and the much needed sony demodulator :crazy:
That was a 600 euro day back then :crazy:

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Posted: 01 Nov 2023, 18:53 

I remember bringing in my cld-1950 at the time to have the ac-3rf out added.
Left the player in the shop for some hours and went ld shopping elsewhere :lol:
Sure enough picking up the player you got robbed once again by paying for Clear and present danger and the much needed sony demodulator :crazy:
That was a 600 euro day back then :crazy:

And that sounds virtually identical to my experience back in the day too (around 1996/97?) only next door to you in the UK and with my original cld-2950. Crazy money really! That’s got me thinking now, how much were they asking for the Sony demodulator back then, as I don’t think the cost of that was too bad compared to that of the actual player mods and ac3 discs?

It was the day the first ac-3 ld reached Antwerp! Clear and present danger
People were waiting outside the shop to get their hands on it :clap:

The ac-3rf mod was about 200 euro in today’s money.
The sony mod-rf1 demodulator was about 185 euro
Clear and present danger most likely around 55 euro
… not to mention the much needed “decent high end” cabling that you “needed” :crazy:

I have no regrets. It was great fun back in those days.
Getting a movie early while everyone was waiting for the vhs
Those were the days of collecting.
These days it’s all crap similar “collector’s” editions
If you also had one of those dts shopping bags afterwards… you sure were setup for life :lol:

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Posted: 02 Mar 2024, 16:29 

There appears to be two mute points located on connector CN16, pin 9 or connector CN18, pin 6 on the AUDB board but not sure which one works (or neither). You can easily test the points by placing a voltmeter on it and see if the volts go from 0vdc to 5vdc (or vice versa) when going from pause & play. Whichever way the volts go will depend if you need to make an AC3 board for Mute Active High (MAH) or Mute Active Low (MAL). So when the player is in pause/stop mode & the voltage is +5vdc, that is MAH. MAL will be the reverse.

For the RF tap, that is tougher to find but there is a logic to it. You need to locate the CX chip which is IC302 and place the RF cable somewhere before the band pass filters. Here is a snapshot of the service manual showing in red approximately where it would be....

https://i.vgy.me/NuH4eq.png


And here is an example of where I tapped the RF point on my CLD-M90....

https://i.vgy.me/ku0Dj6.jpg

The point I chose was the middle pin of transistor Q351 but I think it would have worked on just about any of the legs of the two transistors located there as it doesn't have to be exact.


Keeps us posted on what you find and good luck. :thumbup:

Did not find the time nor had the drive to start experimenting with the rf tap myself.
Sold all the 4400 last year since I had way too much around.
Came to realize you just can’t own them all :lol:
Must say these are very reliable players built to last forever. Sold them to local people who use em with great pleasure these days and that is what they should be doing anyway… put into good use :thumbup:

2 of these players went to Holland. Fellow is adding ac-3 and hdmi out ( just because he can is what he told me )

It all went to a good home in the end

Thank you for the advice ld fan
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