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Posted: 06 Jan 2020, 12:43 

A Hitachi data LaserDisc features prominently in the cheap adventure story "The Devils Mirror: The Viking Cipher No 5" by Rick Spencer, published in 1985.

I picked up from a used book shop in London based mostly on the fantastic Cannon Films-esque cover:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51kGFWJefaL.SX316.SY316.jpg

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Posted: 22 Sep 2020, 05:24 

If I were you I'd go for the cheaper CLD-1750 rather than the CLD-99. You already have a great player in the CLD-2950. I own both the 1750 and 2950 and the former holds up well. As you said, the fact it's single sided is actually appealing in some ways because there's less that can go wrong.

Side note, but holy s**t I had no idea LD players were so expensive these days 0_O

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Posted: 18 Dec 2020, 05:47 

I'm having problems powering on this player (same problems I've documented in this thread about my Onkyo player https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=8999) so I'm going to re-cap the power board. It suddenly died recently and exhibits a "squeak" from the power board when unplugged.

I've taken the board out and to my horror, the back of the PCB (green side) appears to be coated with some sort of glaze. As a result, I can't remove the caps!

Has anyone encountered this on a LaserDisc player before and has anyone got any advice? A quick Google told me there are several different types of Conformal Coating available (I assume this is what it is?), but I've no idea which one has been used on my LD player.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

EDIT: It's fixed!!

As ldfan identified, the shiny orange-tinted glaze was easily penetrated by my soldering iron. It just took a bit longer to heat up the solder.

For reference, the CLD-D780 power board in my player was model VWR-1247-B (input 240V).

I fixed it by changing all the electrolytic capacitors on the PCB, using the list of caps posted by a Reddit user in the link below:
https://www.reddit.com/r/LaserDisc/comments/4b48u8/black_waves_in_composite_signal/.

Here's the caps on the board along with Digikey reference numbers:

c6 - 250v 180uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13309-1-ND
c11 - 250v 180uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13309-1-ND
c12 - 50v 2.2uF ~ Digikey 493-10503-1-ND (see note)
c15 - 400v 10uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13387-ND
c20 - 25v 2200uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1306-ND
c21 - 25v 2200uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1306-ND
c22 - 16v 2200uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13390-ND
c23 - 16v 10uF (M) ~ Digikey 493-12763-1-ND
c24 - 50v 2.2uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-10503-1-ND
c25 - 50v 2.2uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-10503-1-ND
c27 - 10v 470uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1493-ND
c28 - 25v 100uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-12560-1-ND
c29 - 10v 470uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1493-ND
c30 - 10v 470uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1493-ND
c31 - 16v 10uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-12763-1-ND
c32 - 35v 100uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-5925-1-ND
c35 - 50v 10uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-5915-1-ND

I replaced all of them except for c20 & c21 because they were glued to the power board and c23 and c31 because I couldn't find a suitable replacement locally. I replaced c6 and c11 with a 250v 220uF because I couldn't find 250v 180uF caps locally. These two caps were quite bulged so figured they'd be the source of the problem (however, they were not...see below)

Note: c12 was not listed in the Reddit post linked above. I replaced all the caps I could see with the exception of the ones above and it still wasn't working. I looked again at the board and spotted c12 which I had previously not noticed. When I unplugged the player, the "squeak" mentioned above seemed to be coming from this very capacitor so I removed it. Interestingly, this cap was polarized BUT the PCB indicated it was a non-polarised cap! I replaced it with a polarized cap (luckily I had a photo so I knew which way it needed to be fitted) and the beast came alive!

Hope this is of help to anyone in the future! Next project is to get the Onkyo up and running!
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