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Posted: 03 Oct 2017, 22:00 

I found what I believe is a bootleg of Heat (1995) in Hong Kong recently. No bar code, reference number and the inside of the gatefold is literally the same as the front and back cover! I'm gonna add it to the DB but just wondered if anyone has seen this before...

Hi brmanuk,

From the picture of the label, I suspect what you have may be a bootleg, possibly Taiwanese. The label looks very similar to some of those released by the Taiwanese publisher Jei Wea. However, I don't see any reference number on the label, so it may indeed be a bootleg of some sort. It's definitely not the official Hong Kong release, which was done by ERA Home Video with the reference number ERA-35-96. I have a copy of it, and the label looks nothing like the one you have. I'll be interested to see what your jacket looks like.

Best Regards,
David

Hi David,

I've updated the photo links so hopefully they work now.

Yeah, I'm convinced it's a bootleg. Funnily enough, the picture is subtitled however it's actually in widescreen (unlike the ERA release) and isn't the same print as the U.S. release; the black bars are even on the screen whereas the U.S. release is shifted up slightly. According to my colleague, the Chinese used is Traditional which means it's either a HK release or (as you said) most likely a Taiwanese release.

ps. thanks for all your hard work updating the database, 9 times out of 10 when I search for a HK disc your name is attached :)

Hi brmanuk,

Yes, I have done quite a bit of work to help out Julien with the database on these releases. About 10 years ago, I was buying a lot of discs from a brother and sister team in Chicago. The brother was a serious laserdisc collector like myself, and he owned a collection which at the time was about the same size as mine. However, whereas my collection was then almost entirely U.S. releases, his was full of Asian imports. They were selling off his collection, and most of the best that he had is now in my collection. Prior to dealing with them, I had absolutely no Hong Kong or Taiwanese discs whatsoever. When I saw what he had from those countries, I fell in love with them completely. I started buying as many of them as I could afford, and did so for probably 2 or 3 years. At that point, it became obvious that his collection was running out, and they were "scraping the bottom of the barrel". Believe me, that was a sad day indeed. :cry: During the period when I was dealing with them, I noticed very quickly that almost everything I was buying from them from Hong Kong and Taiwan was not listed here on LDDb! :o I decided that would be the best way that I could contribute to the global laserdisc community here. By submitting as much information as possible to Julien to update the database, a permanent record could be created of what was available in the "lesser Asian markets". You see, there was much better documentation of what was released in Japan, which was obviously the "big" Asian market. However, very little reference material was available on the other Asian countries. Although it is still far from complete, what we have here on LDDb is the best and most accurate record of what was released on the format in that part of the world. To this day, I still consider every newly discovered release from these countries to be a rare and exciting treasure! By documenting them here, we can share this information with collectors throughout the world, and preserve this sometimes strange and fascinating part of the history of the format. Keep watching the "newly added" section on the homepage for the latest discoveries!

Best Regards,
David :wave:

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 Post subject: Re: My MUSE LD collection
Posted: 19 Jan 2019, 06:12 

This is all my muse ld, a total of 66 pcs

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Posted: 23 Apr 2020, 15:57 

This is the multimeter I use https://www.petervis.com/meters/dt830d/dt830d.html Is it possible to check voltages with it? I connected the power to the player and tried using the DCV part of the multimeter but was only geting a reading of 001 or 002. Again, I've no idea what I'm doing!
Yes, just keep in mind some parts are AC and some are DC. i.e. voltage up to the two center legs of D1 (the bridge rectifier that rectifies AC into DC) is AC. The outer legs are DC. If you were to check F5, you would be looking for +12VDC so you would set your meter to DCV. Be careful not to accidentally short anything.

I'm struggling to check caps - some show me a reading when I measure Ohms, but others don't and I'm not sure why.
These need to be removed from the board to check with a multimeter, but as nextwednesday said, you might as well just replace them all at that point. To be clear, I am referring to the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

I downloaded the CLD-V860/CLD-2750K service manual but it only seems to like the VWR1268 parts and not the VWR1247! I could theoretically change all the suspect parts but I don't know their value and can't find any of the capacitors in the service manual.
VWR1247 looks identical to VWR1268 at a glance. I just posted that because the VWR1247 scan is cleaner. Go with what is on the board first. Capacitors will have their capacitance and voltage labeled on them. i.e. 2200uF 25V. It looks like the two large caps in the top right are 180uF 250V.

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Posted: 25 Apr 2020, 18:49 

(It's actually stored as RF.) Because my player has some light post-processing that only has benefits on the s-video port.

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Posted: 18 Dec 2020, 08:01 

If you are speaking about what is a glossy coating that is usually on the green side of most circuit boards, I believe this is for protecting the board from shorts that could occur if a liquid is spilled on it. This is pretty common from equipment I have seen from the 80's & 90's and I'm sure it's still done in the present (although I haven't really noticed or the way they do it now has changed).

In any case, you can still solder right through the coating and it should not be a problem removing caps. The coating simply burns off once you apply the iron to the point you're trying to solder. After you replace the caps, these solder points will no longer have the coating on it and it's fine to leave it as is.

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Posted: 18 Dec 2020, 19:47 

By all means, let us know how it goes. The more info we have on successful fixes helps the community greatly :thumbup: .

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Posted: 27 Oct 2021, 11:20 

I recently got hold of a copy of A River Runs Through It [PILH-1006] This is the best film based Muse LD release I’ve seen to date - greenish tint is totally absent here and overall clarity and sharpness are truly outstanding for the best part with very few compression artifacts noticable. I’m rather confident this disc could give the obviously much later released Blu-ray disc a fair run for its money, even the night time scenes hold up very well but the river and general scenery shots look quite stunning not to mention close ups - a fews pics below simply using iPhone 6s pointing at a 226cm 16:9 screen so not even close to the true image quality but it certainly gives a fair hint….

Will post a few more shots when I get a chance if anyone is interested!
https://postimg.cc/gallery/srTrSjH

https://i.postimg.cc/v8jvS5g2/E2-B3-E4-ED-0-CA9-45-FB-8-EC9-A1-A0034-B6-ABB.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Ss1G4MZs/582-BE542-B498-4670-B7-E3-AE37-C0-F886-E1.jpg

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Posted: 11 Nov 2021, 10:59 

brmanuk wrote:
can the Zoom U-44 and Reaper set-up capture DTS or AC3 (fed from a demodulater)?


It can. That's how I captured both DTS and AC-3. :thumbup:
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