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Posted: 12 Nov 2015, 23:27 

Just wondering since at some point I'd either like to service or replace my still soldiering on 702. With a LX900 or D704, is there much visible improvement? Ever since getting my hdcrt xbr960, LDs have become noisy and unwatchable to the point of making me want to build a cart to use my old 4:3 480i Sony CRT again just for them.
My DVL-700 has less noise in the image than the 702, and of course the ac3 rf out. But the DVNR is so prevalent that I never use it other than testing ac3 tracks.

With the absurdly high cost of players on ebay, little guarantee they work right or will be shipped well, and the local avenues practically nil, I've never been able to justify shelling out several hundred dollars for what may or may not be much improvement.

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 Post subject: CLD-D702 Drive Belt
Posted: 30 Jan 2016, 17:39 

I received my CLD-D702 from Goodwill, and I went through the motions of getting it running. It was mostly functional when I got it, so I did a maintenance re-lubricating of the drive rails, a good dusting of the internals, and a check of the capacitors since the early 90s was a time of very bad capacitors being made (leaking being the worst issue). It flips sides eloquently (got the pleasure of seeing the mechanism in motion...really cool in my opinion), and plays beautifully once I cleaned the laser of dust and debris....but it has an issue with the door on the front which slowly opens or doesn't open. It's the drive belt that's the problem (it's slipping like mad), I cleaned the belt with alcohol, and the pullies as well, it works better but not to what I desire.

Since the belt is likely 23 years old, and likely in storage for a good portion of that 23 years, it is likely to assume the belt has just memorized it's shape on the pully, making it harder for the mechanism to work and putting more strain on the motor. So my options are to buy a new belt. Where can I acquire this belt? The only belt on Ebay is listed as only working for these models; CLD-53/79/99/D406/D502/D503/D504/D505/V870. Would this belt work for my 702? The 702 is from the same year as the 502, so the belts can't be THAT different.

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 Post subject: Re: CLD-R7G Arrived!
Posted: 26 Nov 2017, 03:58 

I normally stay away from these conversations anymore but I thought I'd give my opinion. The only player I have not seen in the list is the DVL-H9 but I've seen the DVL-91 which is supposed to be same unit. My opinions are best on performance once I finished all adjustments for best picture performance.

If you want a player with less noise then the list about is pretty good. Comments are that if you turn off the DNR that defaults ON in the X0 it pretty much looks the same as the S2 but the X0 has the red laser that can help avoid crosstalk. Then the X0 noise levels are low enough the DNR actually makes it look really nice keeping an analog look. I've connected an S2 to my Pioneer Elite Plasma and turned on the DNR in the plasma and got close to the same look. This is really leaving out the older players like the CLD-3070 thru CLD-D702 and the LD-S1. I believe the 3070-702 would come after the 97/95 (remember the 95 was short lived as the S-Video or Y/C has a chroma verses luminance lag and the 97 corrected this). Now I've only seen one S1 and it is also low noise so it is around the 97/95/3070-702.

If you want a player with a more dynamic picture then the X9 is the best especially if you put it in HR mode but good both ways and the list needs to be completely changed with the 95/97/S2/X0 being low on the list. The DVL-91 and R7G do also crank up the sharpness with the S-Video output, the 91 composite is not cranked up, cannot remember about the R7G composite output. As I've always said if you have a quality monitor with a good power supply and the black level set properly the white smear on the S9/79/99/703/704 is not that bad but a little is there. This really tests your monitor and setup. I have never seen the issue like I've seen posted in pictures unless I turn up the brightness level on my plasma or analog test monitor. So, yes these units do have some smear but how sensitive are you to it and how does your system show it will help you decide if you want one of these. The 97/95/3070-702 have smear to a lesser degree. Sometime turn up the brightness when playing the X9 and look at the credits on a dark scene and see if you notice anything where the smear used to be.

So it really comes down to your preference and setup for you to determine what you like best. I do my repairs with the units connected directly to the monitor, no processing in between. Yes, I'm a person that prefers lower noise levels built into the design, not processed by DNR.

All these units are good units, this is really just a contest of preferences and how you use the player. I'm fine with rein-o promoting the R7G even though the 97 is my favorite as that is what he likes and if you have the same preferences as rein-o then you'll agree with him.

The key is to find the player you like and enjoy it.

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Posted: 20 May 2018, 22:33 


I started working on a scratch built AC3-RF output board 10 years ago but never got anywhere with it when I couldn't get it to work. So a couple of months ago, I got the itch to finally get it done and found that I had my mute control transistor wired up incorrectly. :problem:

So here are some images of the board and the player that I used for the experiment (a Pioneer, CLD-2090 clone in case anyone was wondering ;) ).

Schematic that I used to create the board

Top view of the board

Bottom view of the board

Size comparison of the scratch built board and a BDE custom made board w/ surface mount components

Solder points in the player for the board (+5V = red, -5V = blue, GND = green, Mute = yellow, AFM = coax wire)

The board installed w/ all wires connected

Wide view showing the board and RCA jack

RCA jack internal view

RCA jack external view

The player playing an AC3 disc w/ Sony SDP-E800 showing a lock ("discrete" indicator lighted)

So now that I have successfully made this board a reality, now it's time to make more of them so I can get the rest of my players up to the AC-3 RF spec. My next version will be on a board half the size (this one was bigger than it had to be but I was learning along the way so I needed space to figure it out).

Hope everyone enjoyed the images. It's quite exciting that I can now make these boards from scratch since all my past player retrofits were always from DIY kits that unfortunately are no longer available to purchase.

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Posted: 29 Dec 2018, 05:04 

takeshi666 wrote:
He's not concerned about the actual replacing of the belt, it's acquiring the new belt to replace it with.

That wasn't very clear to me even after re-reading the post; still sounds like a question about "how" to replace the belt.

But oh well... :roll:

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Posted: 31 Dec 2018, 03:42 

Ok.... Looks like I wasn't very clear on some aspects of changing the belt on an Alpha Turn based LD player. Here are some pics that will hopefully enlighten from my Pioneer, CLD-D701....

Image of the player w/ top off and the tray ejected

Now a picture of the clamper assembly removed as this part will get in the way to reaching the loading belt. You will just need to remove four screws to separate it from the player

Now it's easy to reach the belt as circled in red . Make sure to clean the gears with alcohol before installing the new belt as any leftover residuals of the old belt can cause slippage.

As you re-install the clamper assembly after belt replacement, make sure the following peg goes back into the plastic slider

Hope this helps.

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Posted: 11 Jan 2019, 01:14 

Found this article in an old issue of Video Magazine of a tour of the Pioneer LDCA Pressing Plant in Carson, California. Scanned it in so you all can read too.

Article confirms what Publius stated in another thread when I asked about what was format was used for the master which they pressed LDs from. At this point it was D-2 Digital Composite tape.

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Posted: 12 Jan 2020, 02:21 

While the laser assembly was coming up did you try taking your other hand and lifting up on the laser assembly so that turning the pulley would be easier?

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Posted: 14 Jan 2020, 22:26 

Once the laser assembly is all the way up, lower it back down and the full tray should open. This operation resets the "white tab" back to the "Laserdisc" position.

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Posted: 12 Apr 2020, 17:28 

I never realized until now that the catalog numbers for these releases are really widescreen: 16 9 #0x

Unforgiven (1992) [16901]
16902 - skipped
Free Willy (1993) [16903]
Fugitive, The (1993) [16904]
Grumpy Old Men (1993) [16905]

I can't believe this is a coincidence :-)


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 Post subject: Re: Director
Posted: 20 Apr 2020, 17:34 

You can already through quick search by entering the IMDb number of your desired director, actor etc.

EDIT: Hm, doesn't seem to work at the moment. Perhaps Julien can give us the current status info of the feature, if any.

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 Post subject: Re: LD-S2 NR on BNC
Posted: 08 May 2020, 00:55 

The service manual shows all outputs passing through NR.

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 Post subject: Re: LD-S2 NR on BNC
Posted: 08 May 2020, 01:59 

Yes, all outputs go through the NR circuit and the default is VideoNR OFF and ChromaNR ON.

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Posted: 09 May 2020, 00:10 

sonicboom wrote:
The DVL-K88 was also released in the US as the DVL-V888. Same specs. The 919 and 888 are pretty similar as well.

The DVL-K88 and DVL-V888 are based on the DVL-909, specifically they won't support DTS DVD playback. The 919 variants are newer.

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 Post subject: Re: LD-S2 NR on BNC
Posted: 09 May 2020, 04:48 

For an older analog TV the BNC does look a little better, going to a digital TV or Computer the digitizing will probably cancel out the BNC advantage.

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 Post subject: Re: Director
Posted: 13 May 2020, 14:03 

Oh no.... IMDb must have changed their page structure again.
Will have to update the HTML parsing code when I get a chance.

Actually it was a different problem.

Should be working now!


Open Search for Jim Jarmusch - IMDb
Processing section DIRECTOR
29 IMDb links were found for this section


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 Post subject: The ODC LVDR and RLV
Posted: 28 May 2020, 19:11 

Video Discs Compact Discs and Digital Optical Discs Systems. Hendley. February 1985.
Broadcast Engineering Magazine
Magazine of Broadcast Management/Engineering
Microvitec Pamphlet from Domesday86
Patents US4809022A, EP0130026B1, EP0139354A1 via Wayback Machine via Wayback Machine

The black and white photo pokefraker uploaded here is from the last page of Videodisc and Optical Memory Systems. Isailovic. 1985 and the color one is a still from the video he posted under it.


The ODC LVDR DRAW (Direct Read After Write) recorders entered the market with the LVDR 610 in 1984. The system initially consisted of three components:

611 Studio Console
This is the base machine. It contains two lasers: the Ar gas laser that writes and the HeNe gas laser that reads. The disc was suspended in air by gas (possibly CO2) from a tank housed in the bottom of the unit. The purpose of this was to keep a constant distance between the objective lens and the disc. The electronics that control the servos, operation, power, etc were rack mounted. The price was $160,000.

612 Vertical Interval Encoder/Signal Generator
Responsible for encoding LaserVision frame numbers, chapters, etc in the Vertical Blanking Interval (VBI).

613 Video Monitor package
Optional add-on that included a Tektronix 650HR monitor, 1740 waveform monitor, and 620 X-Y monitor.

The total price of the complete package was $200,000 (this would be just under $500,000 today). In order to be eligible to purchase a LVDR system, you needed to be a licensee of DiscoVision Associates. Additionally, ODC offered the 615 Pulldown Processor that automated frame flagging and the 616 Evaluation Station to check the RLV after recording.

Eventually a revision of the LVDR 610 system debuted by early 1986 known as the LVDR 610A with improved audio and microprocessor control. The price remained $200,000. Of the two widely circulated photos, the black and white photo is the LVDR 610 and I believe the color one to be the LVDR 610A. The latter is from a Pioneer video describing the laserdisc manufacturing process. In the video, it appears the LVDR is being used to create a “check disc” before production reaches full-scale. Notice the ventilation installed which might be used to vent the gas used to suspend the disc while recording or the gas created while recording the disc. The PAL version of the 610A was known as the 620A. At some point it became possible to write both plastic and glass discs, but glass was not an option in 1985. Glass RLVs were more expensive, but provided better quality. The LVDR system supported both CAV and CLV, but I do not believe digital sound was possible.

At the height of RLV production, there were 40+ LVDR systems operating around the world, from Asia, to North America, to Europe. ODC was even awarded the Engineering Emmy Award for the LVDR in 1988. As LaserVision eventually declined, so did RLV and the last RLV Service Bureaus closed in the early 2000s not long after worldwide laserdisc production stopped. ODC would continue to operate after renaming itself ODC Nimbus.

Sometime around a decade ago, ODC Nimbus closed its office and remaining assets were auctioned off in 2015. I was able to view photos of the items auctioned and did not see anything related to the LVDR or RLVs. I reached out to one individual who visited the Laserdisc Recording Center (a “RLV Service Bureau”) around 2003 to purchase some laserdisc players from them. He obtained a blank RLV in the process. He asked to see the recording machine, but he was told it had been thrown away. It is safe to say almost all were scrapped.

The key difference between laserdiscs and RLVs is the extra layer of a thermo-reactive dye mixture between the plastic and aluminum that gives the discs their characteristic color. Similar to the ablation of the photoresist coating on a glass master we see in laserdisc mastering videos, this dye was carefully selected to allow for the maximum absorption of the 488nm (blue) Ar gas recording laser while remaining transmissive to the HeNe (orange/red) reading laser (and later infrared semiconductor lasers). The discs are hollow inside and no amount of pressure should be applied to the surface of the disc. The price per RLV was $75-100 in early 1985. The second revision of RLV discs were known as the RLV Mark II.

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Posted: 06 Jun 2020, 00:35 

Looks like the laser is back in the turn mechanism. You'll have have the unit unplugged and then to put your finger in the turn mechanism finding the laser pickup movement gear and turn the movement gear and you can get it out. Now for the problem, it could be the side A/B position switch or it could be the micro switch on the laser assembly. Once you use your finger to get it back on side A and close the the spindle motor plug the unit in and turn it on and let us know what happens. If it just slowly moves back into the turn mechanism then the micro switch on the pickup would be the first thing I'd look to replace.

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Posted: 23 Jun 2020, 20:41 

I bought a Crystalio II not too long back and it came with firmware v2.10pd, which is the projector designs firmware. I wanted to flash it to the original v2.10 firmware. I downloaded it and followed the firmware instructions but it wouldnt work. So I then asked Substance for some advice as he used to own a CII. He suggested that the USB I was using was too large and the CII wasnt recognising it. I was in fact using a 32gb SD card in a USB adapter. So, I scoured ebay for weeks until I found an old Kingston 1GB USB that was still sealed and dated on the back with a vintage of 2007. Using this USB worked! I have successfully upgrdaded to v2.10 firmware. An issue I was having before was that I couldnt find a way to adjust the screen size. It was shifted too far to the left and no matter what I did I could not adjust for it on the Crystalio. So what I did was force overscan on the TV, which worked but was not ideal as the TV is not in full pixel mode. Luckily that has been resolved now.

So I'm putting this out there for anyone else who has the same issue.

Instructions can be found here . You can download the firmware here .

Thanks to Substance. :thumbup:

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 Post subject: Re: Pink Highlights?
Posted: 30 Jun 2020, 02:59 

I wrote the explanation for this here:


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Posted: 05 Sep 2020, 16:19 

My LD-S2 would not eject at all when I bought it. The original grease had become quite sticky. I cleaned and replaced the old grease with fresh white lithium grease and have not had a problem since.

See the spots marked 2 in the attached image. I would just replace what you can easily get to in order to avoid any issues that might arise from further disassembly.

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Posted: 11 Sep 2020, 05:07 

Great success! :thumbup: Thank you for all of the tips and encouragement to take this on.

I had previously disassembled this player to the point where I could reach the tray belt. Tackling the extra step of removing the guides to more easily get to the sliding plastic plates was daunting, but I got it done. Very well worth the effort, even with the trouble I encountered getting everything put back together "just exactly perfect" on the tray lifting mechanism. I had tried greasing the grooves through the vertical slots, but that did not help. You really need to get to those sliding plastic plates to remove that old, thickened grease and ensure nice, uniform coverage of the new grease. I encountered the old grease mentioned above, but thankfully not gobs of it. I am proud to say the tray slides out and in elegantly now.

One thing I did find which was not been mentioned yet is one of the plastic spindles near the tray belt gears did not turn freely. In fact, it was pretty well stuck. The tray slides against this spindle when it goes in and out so that is obviously an issue. I circled this particular one in the picture below. I worked the spindle manually for a while and wiped up any gunk that would seep out as I did that. It was better, but not enough to where I thought it would not cause issues later. I put a drop of 3 in 1 oil on it overnight hoping it would work its way into it between the brass post and inner wall of the plastic. Working it some more after that helped get it to where I was satisfied it would not cause any problems. It still has a slight bit of friction, but much better than before.

Here is the location of that stuck spindle. If you're thinking of doing this job yourself or even you are in there far enough to get to that belt, then make a point to check the spindles mounted on this plate just in case. You're already there so it can't hurt.
Screenshot from 2020-09-10 23-44-00.jpg

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 Post subject: DADC USA Rot Plot
Posted: 12 Sep 2020, 17:39 

I made this DADC USA rot plot from the mint markings that have been added to the database so far. Numbers at the bottom are reference numbers with a rough release date under them. Y axis is rot reports. It would be better to remake this with the Y axis being the ratio of "added to collection/rot reports", but this is still interesting to look at.

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Posted: 21 Sep 2020, 01:52 

ldfan, thanks for the very kind offer!

I'm attaching 3 pix: obverse, reverse, and see-through. Hopefully these are clear enough.

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Posted: 21 Sep 2020, 05:11 

I looked over the pics for the last hour or so and I think these are the correct points.

SP1 = AC3-RF Out (to middle pin of RCA jack on back panel)
SP2 = AC3-RF Out GND (to GND of RCA jack on back panel)
SP3 = +5vdc
SP4 = Audio FM In
SP5 = Not used (possibly meant for a Mute Active Low player)
SP6 = Mute Active High
SP7 = -5vdc

However, I am not 100% certain about SP7 as the boards I have made I always sent -5vdc to the what would be the SQ1 transistor but this circuit design sends it to SQ2 instead (a possible reason is that this SQ2 might be an NPN type transistor and I usually use a PNP type on my boards).

If Kurtis could possibly confirm my analysis, we'll know for sure.

As for your adding the AC3-RF to your 97, here are the points as written up by invenio...

Good luck for when you get your 97 modded. I'll probably mod my 97 in about a year or so; too many other projects I need to work on ;).
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