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| ldfan |
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Posted: 23 Oct 2023, 05:19
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The main issue w/ the CLD-3070 and her cheaper sister the CLD-2070 is that Pioneer used a grease on the mechanism that has the propensity to dry up and literally harden like clay. This is the reason anyone who has owned these players have issues w/ the mechanism seizing up and operating erratically.
I will tell you right now that trying to do a proper re-greasing on these players are a pain in the a** because taking them apart is not easy and even I will admit I needed a lot of help to piece it back together during the last time I worked on this model.
And in respect to ejecting the disc, there is no easy trick that I could find to easily move the gears by hand to get the clamper up and the tray retracted. Nothing appears accessible except one gear @ the front once you remove the front facade.
Regardless.... here are some thoughts.
Based on the way describe your player, it appears your dried grease issue may not be as bad as some of us have experienced since you get some movement (most of us experience a total seizure of the mechanism). With this in mind, you may be able to free the disc if you open up the player, power it up, and use your hands to give the mechanism a gentle push/pull @ certain points of the eject process. Here is a video I made of the last player I fixed showing how the mechanism moves....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc0pTNTre9U
In this case, you just need to gently grab the clamper, hit the open/close button, and when you see it start to move a little you should start pulling in the same direction to nudge it further. If I assume what happens next, you only need to help the mechanism raise and then the machine should be able to do the rest on its own to retract the tray.
If this works, don't use the player anymore until you can get around and do some re-greasing. You can follow up with me more on this after you get your disc out.
Best wishes. :thumbup: |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 24 Oct 2023, 06:26
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The “RF” in respect to AC3-RF is really just a descriptor that the signal coming out of the jack is RF based and not S/PDIF like standard optical and coaxial digital outs.
This is the only way Dolby Digital could work in LD since they decided to take away an analog audio channel to place this new data track on the disc (unlike DTS as they stole the entire PCM track on LD to make their codec work and also do it without any special decoding equipment like AC3-RF since it technically isn’t RF as the PCM track is already in an S/PDIF format).
Anyway, going to back to AC3-RF, the magic inside the Demodulator isn’t about RF but about QPSK (Quadrature Phase Shift Keying). Think of it like how in the early days of the internet we were able to carry a digital signal on an analog phone line. This is more or less the same concept of AC3-RF with a digital signal hidden in an analog one. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 29 Oct 2023, 00:30
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Congrats. A very awesome player to this day.
Just don’t leave a disc sitting in it idle for hours; it will make the disc soft and flexible due to the heat it produces  . |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 04 Nov 2023, 22:54
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 06 Nov 2023, 05:37
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Wish I could say I was still a “kid”  . I probably would have less body aches as I do now.
Anyway, opinion well taken  . |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 09 Nov 2023, 07:29
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If you're looking for a clone that is a near bit for bit copy of your Denon unit, the CLD-D515 is the player to look for.
Regardless what the front panel looks like (they are different on purpose because of design preferences), the back panel is what you should be focused on based on the locations of where the connection jacks are. Obviously the 515 lacks the SCART connector but the RCA jacks are in the same place.
Moving on, if you're looking for a player w/ mechanical spare parts that you can use to help fix your Denon, you can pretty much pick any player that has the Epsilon Turn design (it's how the laser pick up flips from side to side and this version is like a "U-turn" unlike the Alpha and Gamma Turn versions). The earliest models w/ Epsilon Turn begin in 1995 w/ the Pioneer models CLD-D504, CLD-D604, and CLD-59. After that, most CLD auto reverse players are all Epsilon Turn except the CLD-D704, CLD-79, and CLD-99 (all Gamma Turn). |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 09 Nov 2023, 23:46
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Also, be aware that a very common issue with Epsilon Turn players is that the motor holder for the laser pick-up has a propensity to break over time (brittle plastic pins can snap).
If this occurs, the laser assembly will either move erratically or not at all.
You can order a 3D printed replacement here…..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175989514577
I would order one in advanced just to have it available. This type of part would most likely be broken in whatever parts player you might acquire. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 12 Nov 2023, 01:36
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If it was a universal remote from the 80’s to early 2000’s, they would no doubt have LD player codes since it was a common device back then. Today, all current universal remotes are optimized for today’s product lines.
Your only real options are to find some of those old universal remotes (hopefully they include the code sheet and manual), get an original Pioneer LD remote (you don’t need the exact one for the player so you can find a good price for one), or get a Logitech learning remote that can download LD remote codes on their database.
Also, Pioneer DVD codes were completely different from the LD codes. I’m not even sure if the DVL players used DVD codes but I assume they did. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 20 Nov 2023, 05:13
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I wouldn't dump any player @ this point since we are losing machines more every year. Thus, if you acquire a 703 or 704, I would keep the 701 for a back-up.
Also, your Sony TV does not have a 3D Y/C comb filter (3 line is not the same as 3D) so you should see an improvement in picture quality when using S-Video if you mate a 703/704 to this older CRT TV. With that said, if you had a TV with a 3D Y/C comb filter, you might actually get a better picture running composite video output from your 701 since this LD player has a less digitally processed picture vs a 703/704.
In any case, you need to try all combinations and see what looks good to you. Most of the time, you should just avoid S-Video on most LD players since the Y/C Separator inside the player would always be more inferior to the comb filter in a TV (especially high end TV's from the past whether CRT or flat panel). |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 03 Dec 2023, 02:26
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Here is my guide to replace the 99 and 53 belt (same as the 704)
https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9723&p=122219#p122219
The belts you need for the 99 and 53 can be purchased here.....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175730011496?hash=item28ea532d68:g:HGQAAOSwfiJfXuPZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8E0YeEdNVFRK%2BcpGIlxxeM%2BFQkAMZdRpLFuvzFYtfRBb2EHj8RThk2xkUlZ%2BNlaNAL1G1JhiUo9ovUZYJwkPUfFDLm3jropCf4Kdt1m8v2wokAoJ76oz%2Fe01RzxAHgZJR42sEvhNO7O%2FeOapw1IRh4DM1RHY%2F15gpKeHAfzq2FBJa8FMaCAnSVtuSfZRN%2F1O7W3vz4l%2BAU5ocprLrhvwoezCjkvcjdtncQSPGP3bsHpRd2ltQX0VI3oKCX%2BkVl24vqYuhZYs9daj9ORV4r0w5KZKP5VS%2FHtIRG%2Bv3yZLefMbNGhQ2PUhWXFPJlrsmMJRcA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR96smtSFYw
.... and same goes for the belt for a 3080......
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174686696306?hash=item28ac237372:g:gYUAAOSwUylgURD6&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8LikCoAsXQdpdFdALcvYuWDbZ8PzlJlIQq8p1uuQGYC7wvzAWaMbsQAKjvDfskxcURGHxoNlKsKQGizbs2Av1iZv587y4d9j6VriAiHvn2bbjfxJ%2B59hdBWZdrihDeMMnWZliF73U%2BZmJlKJdL2Los7C3jnlSPL7IQVu5PFIcs5sOO9efkf5%2FlGJsjqDrnKlN71KXvOSovmmqoUeVsNKGBUN%2Fg5XH0OIoGMr03yhquHK4JuMo6OGlN5RW%2BXEVjQb7UDh0td6FPCK9OWZu4PSQ%2FHa4BFarTrMtyV9SobgIOiGNFhi%2Fx9rmXl7uiMksYiQug%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-CsmtSFYw
You may not recall, but we discussed the belt replacement before on your 3080 and you deemed it too difficult to reach. Thus, you may want to study how to replace it before ordering the part.
Also, the part you think is a belt on the spindle is not a belt but a “grip ring”. If you are cleaning that part constantly, you might have already thinned it out too much and will eventually need to replace it. You can get those here for the 99 and 53....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174686647125?hash=item28ac22b355:g:YhAAAOSwN0hcvRcB&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8J9F2unQFGPgHdns4n%2BcQmiqPFXT6JWrx2qwphlt%2FuyZEFeY7rVdUWdEQc7zzKc%2BMC1rayIGznxxy5l9i8MYMuENoJK5aalt0B4i44qvKgHXxk9GBSadkD0pqOzTxGpUtoCOtyXyoJb%2FzJBz%2FTf5Dlqo94dVHa9EpSpZBDqEjB%2BIg9kYHGfyYjketOt1TqBvosZULjbjlwaeST3A%2FMdf%2BXoy49xBeAUMEp8S0A%2FhyQQEcnjkD786l32oVgCa2Nh1SfQCUxIuUmzDUnRrwXGZudCawjtpvm1x5S8cmL%2FoHEwiIT0UjJXRrDKiJLjZ3WYSNw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4C44dSFYw |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 03 Dec 2023, 07:06
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Let's just call it what it is; the "grip ring". And yes, both that and the loading belt can cause the player to not switch to Side B.
When you have a bad grip ring, it will cause slippage during high torque start up of the disc and poor braking when the player is trying to stop the spin during end of disc or side change. What this means in many cases is that player will take forever to start the side change process because it can't stop the disc fast enough to essentially tell the sensors that it's a thumbs up to safely begin the side change. If this process ends up taking too long, the player will simply stop and not allow the change to occur at all.
When you have a stretched loading belt; it will cause all sorts of issues from the loading tray moving in/out erratically or not at all, the clamping process failing to lift and lock the disc properly, and the tilt adjustment not moving properly. The process that usually keeps the side change from happening (at least in my experience) is that the tilt process is not moving properly just before the side change and it jams up the laser assembly from making the switch.
So yes... sometimes you clean that grip ring and it may be having a positive affect but it won't last if it's on the last leg (FYI: grip rings on the 53 and 99 are known issues but on the 3080 they usually are not). In any case, you should simply replace those loading belts first and see how the player performs afterwards. If the player suddenly starts to work more consistently, you can hold off on the grip ring until you start hearing more slippage issues (loud squeal during disc start up and braking).
thought this was the belt? This isn't the belt?
Now let's get something straight.
I'm sure you've seen many mechanical things in your life and it should be obvious what a belt is supposed to do. It turns things like pulleys and they come in all sorts of styles from rubber belts to bicycle chains. A grip ring, just by looking at it, is doing nothing like that.
So now you know and I hope this opens your eye about learning how all this stuff works. You're going to need this knowledge if you want to continue growing your LD hobby. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 08 Dec 2023, 06:31
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| Great to hear about the positive progress. Another great player saved from the scrap heap. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 31 Dec 2023, 20:22
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I wouldn’t feel comfortable cleaning off the stickiness. There is always that possibility that it might open up the disc to laser rot.
As Zeta said, leave it alone as it doesn’t affect playability. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 22 Jan 2024, 13:24
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The proper model remote you need is the CU-CLD068.
It’s actually a pretty common remote and there is one available on eBay right now for $50. If you feel that is too high (I have gotten them for $30 in the past), just be patient and wait for a lower priced one to show up. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 12 Feb 2024, 12:09
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OK, this seems reasonable. Just thought that at LD-release still was unexpected. VHS for sure, but I guess that it was a bigger US-market for rental LD's than I thought. Here in Norway LD's were for sale only and a very small market at that.
The US rental market for LD was also very much non-existent so that’s not really the reason that a movie like “It’s Pat” would be pressed.
Here’s another way to look at it in addition to what was said by Zeta and substance. VHS is actually more expensive to manufacture than an LD based on what goes into it. Really think about that. In the early days of VHS rentals, a tape would typically cost a rental store about $90 to buy from the manufacturer. This is no joke. And the only way the rental shop could re-coup that cost was to at least (in my opinion) have it rented at least 50 times. The only reason that VHS “seemed” to get cheaper as a rental & buying format was a combination of increased demand which in turn reduces cost for mass production + advertising on the tape to further offset cost (the 1989 Batman film is one of the first releases to do this). Regardless of all this, a rental tape of an obscure film still would run about $90 to purchase because once again it’s about demand even in the glory years of VHS.
Now compare that to LD. So…. LD is cheaper to make than VHS. The retail prices of LD titles for just about any movie were pretty consistent regardless if a title was mainstream or obscure. The prices weren’t cheaper than mainstream VHS titles but that was a given since the LD format never hit mass acceptance but thrived anyway with the niche audience that really loved and supported it. And that is also another reason why “It’s Pat” and many other unpopular or obscure titles made it on LD. It didn’t cost much to make so why not press it. It may never be a big seller but somebody will still buy it if priced right. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 26 Feb 2024, 20:40
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Part number is VNL1584. Pretty easy to find in the service manual......
Not a common part that breaks unlike the Epsilon Turn version. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 02 Mar 2024, 19:28
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Thanks for the update. Time is always an issue. :thumbdown:
I haven't had any time in the last two years because of my kid and surprise I now have another one who is a month old. :shock: Thus, trying to raise two sons' is barely giving me any time to even do basic maintenance (but I am trying). I suppose my next AC3 mod will be something like five years down the road if I am lucky. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 10 Mar 2024, 18:42
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About six months ago, I was the fortunate recipient of these Totem Arro speakers (blue) to replace my ancient Sony APM-717 speakers (yellow).
https://i.vgy.me/Rq6O7p.jpg
It took me a while to set them up as the new speakers are 4ohm rated and I was concerned they would be too much for my Denon AVR to handle (they only pull 20 - 80 watts but the ohm rating was the bigger concern). I ended up setting up an external amp (Audiosource AMP100) w/ the Denon's pre-amp output and it has worked out great so far (located behind my TV).
https://i.vgy.me/iupvSP.jpg
However, I still need to get more power for the speakers since I noticed that Audyssey set-up the gain on these fronts much higher than w/ the previous speakers and the internal amp. I do have a Yamaha M50 ready to go once I figure out where to fit it in my cramped set-up.
Anyway, the bigger issue is how does it sound? Well, I can tell you they are fantastic even if they might be slightly under powered @ the moment. For a tiny two way tower that is fitted w/ a 4.5" mid bass driver, these babie's still go as low as 40hz which is amazing (the previous Sony's were designed for 60hz but Audyssey felt their x-over should be set at 110hz). In addition, they do at times sound invisible as the soundstaging is very open & expansive which may be due to the room size which is just perfect for a speaker this tiny.
Anyway, going to continue testing it mainly on two channel material (it was really designed more for music but I think it holds up well for home theater) to get a better feel for it. Thus, I'm going back to my library of CD and SACD titles to listen and hopefully discover something that I missed w/ the previous speakers :). |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 11 Mar 2024, 21:37
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I personally think the CLD-D704 is the best option. It has the more durable Gamma Turn auto reverse system vs the other two have the Epsilon system. For DVL units, I would avoid just because they weren’t really all that great in general and you said you didn’t need DVD (and this DVD player is very average).
In general the 704 does have the better picture for LD as well due to the better video circuitry along w/ variable Y/C adjustment. Also, I think the 704 is the only one of the group that has the twin D/A Converters w/ Legato Link for digital audio but I could be wrong (DVL might have a good D/A set-up as well but not sure).
Listening to a CD on my 704 clone right now as I write this and it’s great :thumbup: |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 11 Mar 2024, 22:51
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In respect to what Zeta just said, he has a point.
I just noticed you are in Brazil. Do you have a local source to get these units? If not, shipping is pretty risky especially internationally but even so domestically. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 12 Mar 2024, 00:18
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Sounds like you’re good to go in that case.
Had no idea Senna was an LD guy back in the day. I collect slot cars so I’m familiar with him in that regard . |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 12 Mar 2024, 06:03
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My 704s are all wearing out. Bearing issues we are working on a fix, but I have to find the time.
I just took my Mitsubishi, M-V7057 (704 clone) out of storage for awhile as I work on fixing an issue with my ProScan PSLD43. I guess I better hurry up and fix it fast and then get the Mits back in a box to prevent over use :roll: |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 23 Mar 2024, 20:07
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This has been written about here....
https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=10076
Per Kurtis, need to replace the LA6510 chip.
You can do a search on the web or got to eBay to get one.....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/400407094705?epid=1300602701&itmmeta=01HSPB9WRTS7QMC3RBXXDG5T51&hash=item5d3a1f65b1:g:26IAAOxy~dNQ~f8C&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4M8l29%2FwkVorlWC%2FI8TnRuIe31dMj9TS5nN83ry%2B0d2AjIUiZryrzeWGxBSsuSfQFT%2BCXiEA25qbLH54O92NAcAXJ2Ig2f1ymdtNJOa5XteospTx%2F1%2BfSmh%2BdImWG7Ef1Hjn13uiDA9ussa7jqcTgXnufk1kGsgwVxvuxxJ3FZL5e9d6upxKNmiWvVofOoaZjTUZbuXmJcVMyIdv45DRi%2FOPTRzETGjY2VWZ%2FHv5aqRBXh8NsBMlXbKhnsDpKVTOODHKz2RNQPG70Q1%2BlVAVkoDtZMTxTc3B%2BzEsh6rQvHbk%7Ctkp%3ABFBMxMyny81j |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 08 Apr 2024, 19:10
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The only LD player released for the North American market (I beliveve) with a 3D Y/C Separator was the CLD-99 so there is really no point in recommending it to anyone getting into the hobby to look for one since they are expensive and rare to come by.
Also, since it only works with S-Video (as they should), that makes it even more useless since no TV’s made today have that option anymore.
A better option (as you already stated) is to get a display optimized for an analog signal like a CRT. However, even older flat panels with a lot of analog inputs will sometimes provide a 3D comb filter comparable or even better than what is used on a CLD-99 and in that case you can plug almost any LD player into them via composite and have a great picture (obviously a better player is still preferred).
As for players being expensive, that’s expected when there is this odd demand for it and no players are being produced. It’s supply and demand working here. You won’t see that with likes of turntables and CD players since they are still being made new even in this day. |
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Thanks list