I just read the posting and I think the seller is just being honest. He doesn't own an LD to test so he's being honest that he can't verify the operation of it and at that point it's your decision to take a risk on it or not. And if I was the seller, I know I would be on the winning side if you complained later that the LD portion didn't work since I made no bones it would work. Thus, pass on it.
In any case, why would you want a DVL when they are basically both an average DVD player and an average LD player in one package? I've always avoided the DVL models for this reason. Also, I wouldn't buy it anyway if the unit is going to be shipped because it's a known issue that the majority of these units are going to get damaged.
I would recommend at this point when shopping for a player that you should exercise extreme patience to see about finding one locally where you can just pick one up (e.g.: craigslist, FaceBook Marketplace, next door, local used electronics store, etc.). You'd be surprised what deals you might find. I have literally picked up something like four players in the last two years for next to nothing and these were mid to high end models.
And regarding your Panasonic models, you can read my past answers about them from other threads. I don't feel the need to regurgitate the same answer to this question again. You're happy with them and that is all that matters.
I thought people said the image quality is good on the laserdisc portion or you are saying my Panasonic crushes it?
I’m sure there are people who feel the image quality is acceptable on the DVL-700 just as much as they feel the LX-900 is acceptable too.
I'm still pissed that my Panasonic cuts a side of the screen off. Other than that it's close to being a 10/10 player. :lol:
Yes. I would be pissed too. That’s why I have no interest in getting an LX-900. However, if the Quasar LD-700 came up for a good price, I might want to procure it since it doesn’t have that issue. Either way, I rate the LX-900 a 5/10 player.
Can’t tell by the video but in most cases a slow eject is due to a dirty grip ring on the spindle platform
https://i.vgy.me/8SqjLC.jpg
You can try cleaning it with alcohol to see if that fixes it but there is the possibility that it needs replacing. I believe these gamma turn models do seem to have this issue more than others. Here is a link to a replacement ring if you need it later.
How do I get to that part? Is it like that if I open it with player off or do I need the player on to get to that area?
1) Take the cover off of the player (seven screws total). 2) While the player is still powered, eject the tray & then unplug the power. 3) See the following two pics......
https://i.vgy.me/vaa9g5.jpg
https://i.vgy.me/rhzAou.jpg
4) Get a q-tip dipped in alcohol and rub it somewhat hard on the rubber portion of the spindle (which is the grip ring) to remove whatever build up is on it. You might see the q-tip turn black or not. Let it dry for maybe about 10 minutes and then play a disc.
What you should see is that the disc will brake very quickly after the cleaning (if it's not too worn) and then the player will eject the disc very quickly. The reason it was not ejecting before is because a dirty or worn grip ring will not be able to brake the disc properly and the player then ends up letting the disc come to a slow stop on it's own (which can take awhile). Once the disc stops spinning, then the player allows you to eject it.
For something this simple, it wouldn't hurt to get your hands dirty and just get it done. At some point, you're going to have to learn to do stuff like this especially if you plan to stay w/ the hobby. This is as easy as it gets (if it really is just dirty).
Could anything else get worse on the player if I leave it alone? It seems to open quickly if I just wait a couple minutes for everything to stop making noises like it makes noises while it's resetting things I think. What do you think?
Eventually it will get to the point that it may not have any grip left to even spin a disc and you'll start to hear a sound of a disc slipping when the player is trying to stop a disc or attempting a side change. Otherwise, that would be the worst of it but it will be annoying to the point that you'd want to fix it.
In my opinion, $175 is too much for a low end player like that even with discs thrown in (but maybe if there is a rare title it might make up for it).
You’d be better off being very patient for something that will turn up locally. I’ve gotten some incredible deals doing just that and great players to boot.
I found that the player was modded for AC3 output. The mod was installed at the place of the second video output. For that, the modder cutted the video signal on the board and connected the wires for the audio mod.
I always hated seeing people mod their players in that way. In a way, it's easier to take over a jack you don't feel one needs, but it's really a hack that at best really ruins the original functionality of the player. And I know some people think punching out a new hole may also look like ruining the original look of the player, but if it's done neatly I feel it adds to the look of the player and will still retain all of the player's original output jacks as is.
I realised that the solder was very bad, and may caused the video distortion, as the solder may touch both audio and video signals on the board.
I don't know exactly what to do now, but I think I will insold the mod from the video out at first.
It might not be causing any issues. If the trace was completely cut off, there would be no way for the AC3 signal to make it back to the video chip. However, it wouldn't hurt to remove the mod and clean up all the possible solder bridges and then re-test the player. If the issues is still happening, then there is more to search for and possibly the issue is still dried caps.
The wire is connected to this little box. Don't really know if this is the AC3 board or if this part is in any CLD-959?
That box is definitely not a part of the CLD-97 based on schematics of the player (I would look inside my 97 but I'm too lazy to open it up @ the moment). It sounds like the person who modded the player thought it would be a good idea to put the AC3-RF board inside a shielded container. Honestly speaking, considering it's located all the way @ the front the player, I would think the excess wire run alone would defeat the effectiveness of such a box. I would open up the box to peak inside and see if it's really an AC3 board and then remove it along w/ the wires. You can re-install the board @ a better location (and without the box) once you get the issues resolved.
If this ends up being the only issue, you are lucky then.
You can get a replacement AWM-2896 on eBay but many do not come in a 22 pin configuration. However, you can cut them down to the appropriate number of pins.
Just measure how long a cable you need and hopefully someone is selling one close to it.
If you play a CAV disc, you get a frame counter with the option on some players to show an elapsed time by pressing the display button. I think most players around 1990 and later have that feature.
You can indeed view the lead-in and lead-out in service mode, but most discs have either black or colourbars in the lead-in and lead-out, so it's not very exciting. I've only found two discs that have anything else in the lead-in...
Thanks for the providing the answer to the question. Good to learn something new after all these year. :thumbup:
Couldn't find the list of discs known for laser rot but remember I'm new to this site. That second movie is Starman. Is that one of the ones known to get that defect?
If you have this one.....
Starman (1984) [76876]
.... it appears to be a known rotter. It would make sense since it was pressed by DADC.
The CLD-V111 is essentially a clone of the CLD-V740 and the only difference is the color.
The reason that Pioneer did this was because they essentially had two Karaoke divisions (industrial and home) and I believe they wanted to give the industrial guys something more affordable to sell besides their high end juke boxes and other industrial pieces. Thus, they were painted in the gray that you see to match their line.
They also made a CLD-V101 that was a clone of the CLD-V720 which were a year or two older than your 111.
The original remote is a CU-CLD024. There doesn't appear to be any on eBay at the moment but keep a search open as they do come up from time to time.
You can substitute it w/ really any other Pioneer remote with a jog/shuttle dial control (that's their official name instead of "wheely remote" ;)) but make sure you get one that does have side change buttons as some jog/shuttle capable players were not always dual side play (like the CLD-3030). Also, you can avoid the expensive jog/shuttle remotes that have VDNR buttons since the 3080 did not have that feature.
I should have mentioned this earlier but wasn’t really clear on what you were doing but….
Why would you buy the remote first before getting the player? It’s always a risk getting a player intact in the mail so the best thing to do would be to get the player first to make sure it works and then get a remote. You could have used the CLD-53 remote to test most of the 3080’s functions first.
That's another issue with both these remotes and Pioneer Players I have. When I press the eject button it only ejects. I have to hit play button to get the tray to go back in on its own. This is so strange.
If you’re used to one way of doing it, I suppose it is strange.
All my Pioneer player remotes have been like this and it never really bothered much me since the logic still makes sense. The combined eject/stop button works as it should by stopping the disc when in play mode & once it’s stopped the player knows the next press will be eject. However, I will agree that having to press play to retract the tray is sometimes annoying if your intent was to have a disc in the tray and you just wanted the disc in there ready to go but not playing.
Oh yeah it does claim the eject button is also the stop button. Still weird to me. I'm used to it saying Stop Clearly. Also the eject button still requires me to hit play if I want the disc player to close.
Some people, like a friend of mine, found it weird that some devices have a combined play/pause button. I always thought that was a weird thing to be fixated on as when I see a device have a separate play & pause button I do find that to be redundant.
Sounds like the player made it to you intact :thumbup: . Congratulations in that case as what you are experiencing right now is the best case scenario.
In all likeliness you probably need to replace the loading belt. You can try and clean it with alcohol first to see if that might give it more torque again but it will only be a temporary fix if it does work. In any case, the part number is PEB-1013 and are available on ebay for about $10.
Just be aware that there are two belts in this player. The other belt is of a tooth designed and that one should be fine. PEB-1013 is standard toothless belt design just like the CLD-53. It should be located on the front left side and should be accessible w/ the tray retracted.
The older a player is, the better built they are going to be which equates to weight. That’s the way most devices go through in the product life cycle. Nothing odd about that.
The loading belt is located about an inch or more to the front of the toothed belt assembly you have pictured. Here is the best I can do to show you the approximate location.....
https://i.vgy.me/pg6LmY.jpg
You should be able to reach it from the rear if you have long fingers or tweezers but if not you may have to try from the front if the loading tray is not in the way (when the tray is open). If it is, then you have to remove the tray to reach it or possibly remove the front facade (neither is something I would try if you are uncomfortable with it).
Also, I'm assuming this was not the belt you said you cleaned before so if that is the case you can try a long swab to give it a dab of alcohol to see if cleaning it will help or not.
There appears to be two mute points located on connector CN16, pin 9 or connector CN18, pin 6 on the AUDB board but not sure which one works (or neither). You can easily test the points by placing a voltmeter on it and see if the volts go from 0vdc to 5vdc (or vice versa) when going from pause & play. Whichever way the volts go will depend if you need to make an AC3 board for Mute Active High (MAH) or Mute Active Low (MAL). So when the player is in pause/stop mode & the voltage is +5vdc, that is MAH. MAL will be the reverse.
For the RF tap, that is tougher to find but there is a logic to it. You need to locate the CX chip which is IC302 and place the RF cable somewhere before the band pass filters. Here is a snapshot of the service manual showing in red approximately where it would be....
https://i.vgy.me/NuH4eq.png
And here is an example of where I tapped the RF point on my CLD-M90....
https://i.vgy.me/ku0Dj6.jpg
The point I chose was the middle pin of transistor Q351 but I think it would have worked on just about any of the legs of the two transistors located there as it doesn't have to be exact.
Keeps us posted on what you find and good luck. :thumbup:
Remember to compare these correctly, the CLD-3080 compares to the CLD-D704 top of the line non-Elite players, the CLD-99 compares to the CLD-95/97 top of the line Elite players.
Again, just get what you like and enjoy it, other people should not effect your preference and happiness.
You have that mixed up my friend. The CLD-99 and CLD-D704 are similar and even have the black background instead of the bluish background that is found on the CLD-3080, CLD-95, and CLD-97. I'm 99 percent sure the CLD-95 and CLD-97 are based on the CLD-3080.
You have a point about how you are comparing these machines but Kurtis is not mixed up. If anyone knows anything about these machines, it is Kurtis.
The point he was making is about the "class" these machines were meant to be compared with (Elite to an Elite, blue collar to a blue collar). You are just pointing out the different "chassis" used and that is not incorrect but they aren't meant to be directly compared. A CLD-3080 should always be compared to a CLD-30?0 / CLD-D70? series player since they are all part of the same class. A CLD-95/97 is likewise compared to any Elite player w/ the CLD-9? series starting w/ the 91.
Chassis' that are shared to each other could be grouped something like this (U.S. models only)....
Single side play (CLD-3030) 1st gen Alpha Turn (CLD-3070, CLD-3080, Elite CLD-91, Elite CLD-92, Elite CLD-95, Elite CLD-97) 2nd gen Alpha Turn (CLD-3090, CLD-D701, CLD-D702) Gamma Turn (CLD-D703, CLD-D704, Elite CLD-79, Elite CLD-99)
Epsilon Turn players were usually mid end players with some models boosting high end features but they aren't in the same class as the one's mentioned above. Still, the players that had digital field memory were the CLD-D604, CLD-D605, CLD-D606, Elite CLD-59, and maybe others.