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Posted: 17 May 2020, 17:38 

Wouldn’t a CLD-D503 work since it’s also a gamma turn chassis as well? Gotta be some of these players lying around broken and thus affordable.

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Posted: 18 May 2020, 18:17 

Definitely you are not wasting time dealing with a power supply issue.

It’s only a waste of time if something else gets damaged like a control IC or any part that can’t simply be replaced. Power supplies are usually going to have common parts that can easily be procured.

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Posted: 27 May 2020, 07:15 


.. anyways, it seems to me like this would work? Just adding the TOSLINK plug? Maybe there's a cap (C895) right there missing?

The empty toslink cutout could work if you can verify that the power and signal connections actually still go there. If you have a voltmeter set on continuity mode, you can follow the digital out back to the DSP chip as follows....


https://i.vgy.me/mzN8WB.png




If you follow it carefully, it should end up @ pin 43.


https://i.vgy.me/PSJVSd.png





Anybody else every add a optical out to any of these? Or any I just wasting my time on a perfectly PRISTINE working machine.

It's very doable. I'm still working on adding one to my CLD-M90. I plan on using this kit to make it happen....

https://i.vgy.me/zhKnGz.jpg


And as an FYI... here is where the digital output is located on this player (I have already researched if this digital out connection leads back to an empty toslink socket and I verified that it does not).

https://i.vgy.me/k4aU8k.jpg

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Posted: 01 Jun 2020, 04:40 

Hey everyone,

It's about time that I completed the exhaust fan project I had for my SDP-E800. It wasn't totally successful (more on that further down this posting) but I'm happy overall w/ the results for the most part. So let's dive in.

Here we have the location I had in mind for the fan.

https://i.vgy.me/sMRyqQ.jpg

I chose this spot mainly because it was the only part of the back panel that was free of any markings that I did not want punched out as well as the fact that it was literally the only free spot since this back panel is chock full of connection jacks.


After that, I needed to trace out of the shape of the fan and decided to just use transparent tape....

https://i.vgy.me/teE7kP.jpg

..... and then transfer that out to the back panel.

https://i.vgy.me/Kcvhkk.jpg

https://i.vgy.me/78zejQ.jpg


Now I needed to cut out some of the back panel because my hole puncher couldn't get around it....

https://i.vgy.me/y874pq.jpg

https://i.vgy.me/rXUroT.jpg

Next up is getting the holes punched out for the fan mounting screws....

https://i.vgy.me/HbVc77.jpg

.... and then the fan openings (definitely wished I did nicer job than this :thumbdown: )....

https://i.vgy.me/rlfjXg.jpg

https://i.vgy.me/gEuANI.jpg

.... but it does look a tad better when the processor is put back together and there is no light bleed.....

https://i.vgy.me/iX89Og.jpg



Finally, we're on the last leg of this mod in respect to wiring it up. I found a power point on the power transformer that gave me about 4.3 vdc which then dropped to about 3 vdc (the fan is designed for 5 vdc but I actually wanted it to run on lower voltage to keep the fan speed lower and thus quieter).

https://i.vgy.me/QZg4MR.jpg

I had the GND connected to the GND point of the composite video RCA jack. In addition, this fan has a mini plug of which I simply stuck the extension wires into it instead of soldering (I also decided to do this so I could easily detach it when I needed to work on the main board).

https://i.vgy.me/ZCeU0l.jpg

In any case, I placed double stick tape on the back panel to secure the wiring and then placed electrical tape over it. Hopefully that will hold it all together.

https://i.vgy.me/Pa07m9.jpg


Anyway, as I was saying earlier in the post, the mod hasn't been totally successful. I was hoping for a significant drop in temperature to expedite the possibility of being able to stack a component on it. However, in testing the external temperature, there was literally no change at all (my temps averaged 78 to 82 degrees Farenheit) although I'm sure the internal case temp could still be lower simply because of air movement.

So my thought on why this was the case was due to how the air flow was moving as illustrated here.

https://i.vgy.me/WLJ2SO.jpg

Because I placed the fan where it is, it's probably creating an airflow (noted in blue) that is literally pulling air around the perimeter of the casing and basically ignoring the area where the most heat is being produced (noted in red). Thus, I do plan to make one more mod in respect to placing another fan to upper left side of the heat sinks to re-direct the hot air into the air stream of the current fan. Hopefully this will create the kind of air flow to reduce the hot spot but we'll see when I get it done later.

In the meantime, I'll continue to test out the unit since the occasional glitch I reported in the first post continues to occur sporadically (I thought I had it down perfectly after my last update but I guess I was wrong :think: ). Thus, now we'll see if this fan might play a part in preventing the glitch by keeping the unit a tad cooler. :?:


Addendum as of 6/16/20 >>>>

So here is the next update on the installation of a 2nd fan.

I was able to jury rig another fan of the same size and had it mounted to a metal standoff (I used copper wire wound around a screw and applied solder to keep it in place) which was then screwed into a plastic standoff that was then double stick taped to the main board. Here are a couple of pics of the placement I chose.

https://i.vgy.me/4tiwAJ.jpg

https://i.vgy.me/6R3MXx.jpg


The height is about the same as the other fan as noted in this pic...

https://i.vgy.me/3onOvl.jpg

My intent was to get it as high as possible to ensure that the airflow would travel at the same level to the other fan for maximum efficiency as well as to make sure that the hot air trapped on top of the casing would get moved as soon as possible. Here is another pic of the air flow....

https://i.vgy.me/TRLSDl.jpg


This pic shows how I had the unit wired up. Essentially I used the same points as the other fan.

https://i.vgy.me/PDxakb.jpg

I was a tad concerned about the extra load on the power point since the first fan did drop it down about a volt but adding the second one appeared to not cause any further drop. Right now it's running at about 3.6 vdc.

So the final verdict???

Well, it's really no better than before with the exception that the fans appear to delay the heating up of the cabinet (my unofficial observation is that it now takes about 120 min to reach 81 degrees Fahrenheit and I think it used to take 30 to 40 min w/o the fan). The reason that there is no significant cooling that I can detect from "outside" the unit probably has a lot to do w/ the heat sinks being so close to the top that it's going to heat up the top of the casing regardless if a fan is removing the heat or not. Thus, I can make an assumption that it's still keeping the overall unit cooler but I probably won't know for sure unless I put a thermostat inside of it to get a reading with and without the fans running (I think I definitely want to do that just so I know).

In any case, I'm going to keep this mod intact and continue to monitor the unit's performance. I'm most interested to see if the glitch that I still get sporadically will lessen or disappear all together. If it's the latter, I'll be really happy to know that the effort on the fan mod (along with all those new caps) was worth it. ;)

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Posted: 01 Jun 2020, 17:37 

I do use my SDP-EP9ES as a "demodulator only" as noted in the steps you indicated. If you are still not getting a lock, check the AC3-RF output with a voltmeter. You should get a reading of about 3.6 to 4.5 vdc during play and a 0 vdc when stopped / paused. Also, there is always a distinctive click on the EP9 whenever you switch the player to play and pause/stop.

In addition, are you sure that the optical input on the Onkyo is not assigned to anything else but the "TV" input? This AV Receiver is capable of re-assigning it to another input.

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Posted: 01 Jun 2020, 19:47 

I am not really an expert, but the first thing that came to my mind when I saw your pictures was
"why did he choose such a tiny fan?" - maybe you should retry your mod with a slightly larger one
that can move more air.

The reason for such a small fan was based on two reasons...

1) I wanted to minimize the amount of cutting of the back panel as much as possible to keep the processor looking as original as possible
2) I really did not feel a need to have a literal tornado inside the unit as I'm okay with it heating up and letting the processor work as it was designed. However, being able to simply let the hot air escape more easily was my main priority and I think it can still work if I place another fan within the unit to redirect the hottest air toward the one I have already installed.


Also another thing is you need an in and out for your air, once you pop a hole on the other side somewhere you can get more flow.

Sticking a fan in an without the intake won't do anything.

So larger fan and pop a hole on the right side so you get a cross breeze.

The E-800 does have a fairly large opening on the bottom so that should act like an acceptable intake.

Like I stated in my reply to lons_vex, we'll see when I get a 2nd fan installed for just the hot spot if it will help circulate the hotter air toward the other fan and out the unit.

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Posted: 04 Jun 2020, 18:09 

This where the belt is located.....

https://i.vgy.me/32asMB.jpg

The belt you need is part number VEB-1184 or an equivalent size. Looks like you can get it on eBay here.....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PIONEER-VEB1184-HNT128-REB530-CNT068-CNT068B-TRAY-BELT-FAST-SHIPPING-D101/181800958792

As for ejecting your tray, I don’t how to do that manually but I think someone wrote about it somewhere in this forum (has to do w/ moving gears to lower the transport and then release the tray). In any case, I need to replace the belt on my CLD-D703 soon so I can check later.

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Posted: 17 Jun 2020, 04:14 

Not really. For me, the point of owning any kind of equipment means that it should work fine completely assembled. I did consider cutting vents into the top of the case but I couldn't figure out a way to do it cleanly plus I wanted a mod that minimized the butchering of the case. Hence, the tiny opening I made for the fan was perfect in my opinion.

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Posted: 18 Jun 2020, 03:14 

Which outputs are you using, the analog or digital?

I’m actually using the six channel output and routing them to a set of Logitech 5.1 PC speakers (it's my cheap system for where I live right now). Once I get my broken Marantz fixed and get real speakers for it, the E-800 will become just an AC3-RF Demodulator and thus utilizing its optical digital output.

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Posted: 21 Jun 2020, 02:38 

I was going through my old archives and found pics of my first AC-3 Demodulator mod installed in a player.

This was a Sony, MDP-455 that I had back in 2002 and it was my 2nd LD player I ever owned (my first is still my Pioneer, CLD-3030). The mod was only partially successful as I'll explain later in the post. For now, let's check out some pics (my apologies in advanced regarding my camera focus; I was just getting into photography and I borrowed a friend's camera that wasn't all that great).

A view of the player in question.....
https://i.vgy.me/ojmNxH.jpg

.... and a view of the underside (always liked Sony players in respect to seeing five isolating feet instead of the usual four on other brands)
https://i.vgy.me/eIRmUk.jpg

Here is the image of the underside w/ the AC3-RF board to the right....
https://i.vgy.me/4S1Nf6.jpg

Regarding what I noted in this pic, the leads on the left power up and send the AC3-RF out signal to the AC3-RF Demodulator mounted on the top side. Also, per the instructions I received on this player about the lack of a mute control for the RF board, I still attempted to find one but failed in respect that anywhere I found a switching 5v point would adversely affect the player. Thus, as shown in the following pic, I ended up getting rid of the yellow wire and simply shorted the mute control per instruction.....
https://i.vgy.me/mVM6AO.jpg

Moving on, here is a view of the AC3-RF Demodulator in the player...
https://i.vgy.me/iPPIMs.jpg

.....and how the wires that were run through the plastic chassis....
https://i.vgy.me/dswYz6.jpg

..... and on the way to the newly installed RCA jack.....
https://i.vgy.me/pOQYXf.jpg

https://i.vgy.me/M7ZuP9.jpg


So as I mentioned above, the mod wasn't totally successful and the key issue was the lack of a mute control on the RF board. The set-up did work and gave me awesome 5.1 audio but the big problem was that I would get an occasional loud squelch on my speakers just as playback was about to start. And of course, I found this very irritating as I did not want to be scared out my seat every time I started a movie (or started the next side change).

In any case, the player ended up having other issues as time went by and a shop I took it to stated that there was little they could do to remedy it (I think it was the spindle motor not getting up to speed or maybe the laser pick-up not reading the disc; can't remember). Regardless, since this was still the early 2000's, obtaining other players for dirt cheap made more sense instead of sinking more money into what was essentially an average player. The AC3 parts were removed before I tossed the player and they ended up in a Denon (RF board) and a ProScan (Demodulator board which was then removed again and currently not assigned to a new player yet).

All my subsequent AC3 Demodulator mods I have done since then have been perfect as all the other players have always had a good mute point for the RF board.

Hope everyone enjoyed seeing something different.

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Posted: 22 Jun 2020, 23:28 

found that power to the motor is pulsing with volt meter attached any ideas?????

I think I heard about this issue on tripletopper's LX-200 but I think we never found the solution @ the end.

Anyway, if it's easy to follow, you can trace back where the motor connects and see if it goes back to whatever is powering the motor (usually a transistor of some sort or maybe caps that fall inline w/ the motor).

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Posted: 24 Jun 2020, 04:08 

Others will chime in but it sounds like its slipping.

Try cleaning the rubber mat

Thanks. What's the recommended cleaning fluid these days. I've found references to Radio Shack head cleaner, but since Radio Shack doesn't exist any longer... There are a lot of different head cleaners on Amazon. I may have some old head cleaner for my reel-to-reel somewhere, but it's old at this point.


Rubber mat (aka grip ring) is not about the head. This is what you need to clean.....

https://i.vgy.me/TLykNg.jpg

Try alcohol and see if that will work.

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Posted: 24 Jun 2020, 17:52 

And BTW.... I would never get rid of a 704 unless it was absolutely trashed. They are always worth fixing since they were the high end player in their day (approx MSRP of $1,400 to $1,500).

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Posted: 17 Jul 2020, 21:43 



It could be working ..as it might just be the display...but all chips and components are staying cold even after leaving on for ages...will have another look at components especially power regulators and their diodes and caps

As odotb3 stated, it could be bad caps in the power supply. If the chips are not even getting warm, I would think it's likely power supply related. A bad control IC could be the issue too but I would think other chips would still be getting warm.



...otherwise will hold onto it until hopefully see another reasonably priced unit on fleabay pop up...AC3 units are hard to get these days for sure!

Agree with that. I always went for processors myself since they are usually cheaper than a standalone RF Demodulator. I might recommend you try and find a unit that has an "optical audio output" if possible since you can use them w/ a modern day AV Receiver and have it do the digital processing.



Also need to see if I can make an AC3 mod circuit for my D770...but really need something I know that works to try all this out.

I have a D703 on my bucket list to update to AC-3 as well. Not sure when I'll get around to it but once I do it will be posted on the site. My M90 is next on the list for a very extensive mod with S/PDIF as well as AC-3.

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Posted: 17 Jul 2020, 23:00 

It should play fine.

This appears to be an NTSC player so you just need to make sure your TV is NTSC capable (not sure what Australia’s analog system was based on).

Also, the Lawnmower Man Special Edition doesn’t appear to be AC3 encoded so that is not an issue (and even if it was you just simply play the PCM or analog audio track(s) to watch the movie).

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Posted: 18 Jul 2020, 19:45 

A general rule of thumb for me is that you just have to play a disc to see if there is any rot showing up as drop outs in the video.

These days, I don’t get too concerned about rot since every disc out there is at least 25 years old so if there was a rot issue it would have already deteriorated the aluminum really bad by now. In other words, you play a disc and it looks good, you’re good to go. If it plays bad, return it.

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Posted: 19 Jul 2020, 01:28 

If you really suspect the AC3 board as the culprit, the best way to diagnose is to simply de-solder one or more of the cables going to the board and then test again. If it clears up, then you can suspect that the person who installed it did not find the most ideal place to tap for the AFM or even a power point (I have seen some issues tapping a particular 5v point that would cause interference).

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Posted: 19 Jul 2020, 01:34 

For some reason I had missed that statement “12voltvid” made about all discs rotting over time. That was really incorrect so I left a comment about it for his vid.

Anyway, the guy otherwise is a really good technician and has really helped me a lot on how to approach a repair. He had a great video on fixing a Denon AV Receiver and his tips helped me to find a couple of shorted resistors on a similarly built Marantz. If and when I replace these part and the unit ends up working again, I’ll send him a big thank you.

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 Post subject: Re: [CLD-D704] Support?
Posted: 19 Jul 2020, 20:25 

Here is a belt comparison from a Mitsubishi, M-V7057 (704 clone). You be the judge if the newer belt seems to be the correct size.

Image

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Posted: 21 Jul 2020, 06:20 

I definitely agree with Starship Troopers; really great mix. I’m also impartial to Air Force One but I did find that the AC-3 mix is the same as in the SuperBit (or even standard edition) DVD. On a side note, both of these Columbia titles do have rot issues so I wouldn’t try too hard to obtain them on LD.

Other titles in my opinion that I felt had a good mix are:

The Arrival
Breakdown
Con Air
Copland
Courage Under Fire
Crimson Tide
Daylight
Deep Impact
Deep Rising
Event Horizon (surrounds will definitely scare you out of your seat)
Hard Rain
Heat (but one dialog scene has too much bass)
King Pin
L.A. Confidential
Lion King
Men In Black
Mission Impossible
Mr Holland’s Opus
Payback
Ransom
Ronin
Star Trek Generations
Star Trek First Contact
Star Wars Trilogy Special Edition
Unforgettable (the mix in this movie is especially enveloping in the surrounds)
What Dreams May Come

There are a few I considered adding to the list but I need to listen to them again to see if I recall them sounding as good as I think. Also, I did not pick any classic films re-mixed for 5.1 since they for the most part aren’t all that impressive in most cases (exception might be Vertigo but I have to watch it again).

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Posted: 26 Jul 2020, 21:03 

Is a good idea to buy a Cld-99s from 1987 if you dont know how to repair or service a LD player?

I say that is a good question for just about any LD player you buy whether is was made in 1978 or 1998. It's a chance you have to take if you want to be in this hobby. Overall, the CLD-3030 / CLD-99S doesn't appear to have a lot of issues but you have to make sure you try to find one that has been taken care of and hopefully has low hours.

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Posted: 01 Aug 2020, 02:31 

Forgot to mention.

My understanding (at least from what I have read) is that many European LD players have a "Mute Active Low" (MAL) mute control so you have to consider that when building your board. I tried unsuccessfully to conceive of a board that can do both types of mute.

To find out for sure if your player has either version, find the mute point and place a voltmeter on the point to see how the voltage fluctuates during play / pause (MAH = +5V on pause & 0V on play and MAL = +5V on play & 0V on pause).

You can read up on some information on this posting (7th post down).

https://laserdiscplaza.fr/forumld/viewtopic.php?t=579


And this is the actual circuit diagram I used on my recent mods that are for MAH players only.

https://vgy.me/aR6JaE.gif

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 Post subject: Re: Pioneer CLD-79 U1 error
Posted: 01 Aug 2020, 06:38 

If you never replaced the loading belt, it's probably long overdue @ this point. Also, based on your description and the error codes mentioned, it all sounds like the loading belt as the main issue.

Here are steps I took to replace the belt in my Mitsubishi, M-V7057 (704, 79, 99 clone).


Pop the tray out and unplug the player
https://i.vgy.me/32asMB.jpg


Remove the clamper assembly
https://i.vgy.me/EdlMXX.jpg


Remove the old belt, clean the pulley parts w/ alcohol, and then replace the belt (part VEB-1184 or maybe SCQ 4.0 belt size)
https://i.vgy.me/bZc2cw.jpg


Hope this helps.

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 Post subject: Re: Denon/Pioneer player
Posted: 03 Aug 2020, 20:06 

do you know what is to the right of the control in and out ports? it looks like something you can swivel or something.

That is the voltage selector switch for using this player in different countries. This could be an S350 sold on military PX’s.


The 201 is the most low end but there are other versions of the same deck with names I forget. They have better remotes or crappy s-vid added.

In this case, Pioneer / Denon also threw in the optical audio output so the player can be useful for playing back DTS titles. None of these players ever had AC3-RF out since it was still too early. The Pioneer CLD-S304 I believe was one of the few cheap single side players that had AC3-RF out but they dropped the optical output (same thing they did w/ the 504’s).

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 Post subject: Re: Denon/Pioneer player
Posted: 04 Aug 2020, 04:43 

I’m wondering if anyone ever actually watched a DTS title back in the day on a crap deck like this. That would truly be putting the cart before the horse unless you were actually blind. The decoder alone would cost more than the deck and the S201 with three or four years on it looks barely better than VHS.

Back in the day, I just kept w/ my modified CLD-3030 and SDP-EP9ES for about 10 years as my mainstay system so it was just Dolby Digital, PCM or analog. I never considered even getting DTS discs of any kind until I finally updated my AV Receiver and then I went on a binge to get DTS LD's and CD's into my collection.

So with that said, I'm sure the early DTS adopters probably all had high end players to justify even having an expensive (at the time) AV Receiver that had DTS built in.



Upon release there were no DTS discs, the TOSLINK was simply seen as a lossless connection for conventional audio in stereo/surround. It seemed important at the time but later in life through much experimentation I’ve learned it’s better for making Minidisc copies than it is for anything else.

I did use my optical output from my player mainly for Pro-Logic decoding in the EP9. It definitely was better than continuing to use the analog outs of my player to an even more dated Pro-Logic processor in my Pioneer VSX-9700S (no true bass management and no sub woofer output). However, I would switch back and forth between the EP9 and 9700 for music in stereo mode as I actually liked the sound much better on the 3030's DA converters (just sounded a tad warmer for my taste). So yeah, I agree with you that the toslink had limited use and didn't sound exceptionally better than using analog connections.

Of course, now w/ my updated AV Receiver w/ DTS decoding, the toslink on my LD player finally gets fully utilized for something bigger than just PCM stereo.
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