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| ldfan |
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Posted: 24 Feb 2021, 18:25
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What titles to own on Criterion LD is a tough question because there are many variables to think about. Let me see if I can break it down easily
1) Titles not on Criterion DVD or Blu ray. Many Criterion LD titles did not get a DVD remaster because of the film's original studio did not want to renew their contract during the format switch (they wanted to make their own special edition). Too many titles to list but we're talking about a lot of mainstream films like The Wizard Of Oz, 2001, Blade Runner, Robocop, etc. Here is the full list....
https://mubi.com/lists/criterion-laserdiscs-not-yet-on-criterion-dvdblu-ray
2) Titles that have supplements. Some Criterion LD's are just the movie and that is it. If that is the case, I would usually say skip the Criterion unless that was the only release of the film and / or there was never a widescreen version released by the original studio.
3) Titles in CAV. Many Criterion releases came in a CAV or CLV format. So if you want freeze frame, slow mo, clear scan and don't mind flipping a disc every 30 minutes, this is sometimes the preferred version. Obviously, with CLV you have fewer discs and fewer sides to flip but you do lose the cool special effects playback (unless you have a Digital Field Memory player).
4) Titles with nice packaging. This is purely personal taste. I happen to like a box set or a nice gate fold that holds the disc.
5) Titles with AC3 encoding. I know that you don't have have an AC3-RF equipped player so probably not important. Also, there were only a handful of AC3 titles in the Criterion Collection but I like having them once again because of packaging and the supplements (which many had).
6) Titles that are only on Criterion. There are few and mostly titles that are just not sought after. They might even be so obscure that you may not have an interest in them.
There might be other things to consider but I have to think about it. Otherwise, these are my big six considerations I think about. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 24 Feb 2021, 18:48
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I guess what I mean is I wish I bought a machine that can play these discs. I feel like I'm missing out by having discs with audio that I can't access.
Well, at this point in time, any machine is a good machine so long as it works. So wouldn't feel bad about that. And even if you had a player that had all the bells and whistles, Dolby AC3 would still be a problem for you since you still need the AC3-RF Demodulator or Processor to extract the soundtrack properly for your AV Receiver.
I think I will take a look at my amp next and work out how I convert tracks into the surround that will use my rear speakers. There's a lot of different sound symbols on the back of discs and it's a little bewildering.
Watch all these videos on YouTube from Culture Dog. I think he does a good job of simplifying all the audio options from beginning to end. There are five videos total and watch them in that order.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UB1q5VgN9YY&list=PL1x8jwqGXR0iui6pAJWyw1Aahfkv-tlci&index=1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bE2LmGJyRew&list=PL1x8jwqGXR0iui6pAJWyw1Aahfkv-tlci&index=2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXEC3-g9O-Y&list=PL1x8jwqGXR0iui6pAJWyw1Aahfkv-tlci&index=3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kApU0gl2Nlg&list=PL1x8jwqGXR0iui6pAJWyw1Aahfkv-tlci&index=4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6M7gnpEjT4&list=PL1x8jwqGXR0iui6pAJWyw1Aahfkv-tlci&index=5
I'm loving my actual player even though the picture isn't as good as blu-ray or 4k. There's a cosiness to the films which I really like. I just want to ensure I'm watching films in the best possible way and with this player it doesn't seem like I can do that.
And then watch his video on this as well....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkxJhmLZ-tg&t=2432s |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 25 Feb 2021, 18:46
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I suppose that is a good enough reason to want to get in on the hobby. ;)
However, I am more on the side of rein-o in that I feel it makes more sense for people who have already been entrenched in the hobby to stick to it as it would obviously cost more for us to get rid of the stuff and then re-buy the same movies in a different format. And of course, since we know some movies aren't available or altered on DVD/Blu ray, I guess that is another reason to stick with LD. :thumbup: |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 03 Mar 2021, 22:27
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Well... if you never replaced it, probably time in that case.
Just need to figure out how to retract the tray. Once you do that, you remove the clamper to give yourself more room to get to the belt. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 03 Mar 2021, 23:29
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| Yes. Remove clamper to retrieve CD. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 09 Mar 2021, 06:50
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You just need a new loading belt. Part PEB-1013.
The load mechanism affects not just loading but adjusting the tilt of the carriage for the pick-up to move from Side A to B and back. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 22 Mar 2021, 04:25
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krbahr wrote: The picture of the laser. Is that the flash reflecting on the lens or does it need to be cleaned?
It does seem to be very cloudy looking but hard to really tell. I guess a cotton swap w/ a pinch of water is a good next step.  |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 22 Mar 2021, 21:08
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Good to know you got it working regardless what the solution was. :thumbup:
I just replaced a ceramic oscillator in my Sony SDP-E800 just over a week ago and still testing for a glitch. It usually has an issue cutting out sound about every 20 days or so on the six channel output only. I’ll update my posting in about 3 weeks if it keeps going fine. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 22 Mar 2021, 23:06
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Most likely you need to replace the loading belt. It’s stretched.
You can get one on eBay....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175730011496?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sLyEhRNoTCi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=q_X89aWdTC2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
...and you replace it by doing this.
Open up the player and pop out the tray. Then unplug the power.
https://i.vgy.me/u6AzSV.jpg
Remove the clamper assembly as shown.
https://i.vgy.me/bzI8Ug.jpg
Remove the old belt as noted here.....,
https://i.vgy.me/c3c0Oi.jpg
...and then clean the plastic gears the belt touches w/ a swab & alcohol to remove any residual dirt or worn rubber, let it dry, and then install the new belt.
The player should work again as if it was brand new. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 27 Mar 2021, 23:47
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Hey everyone,
After saying for so long that I was going to do it, I finally found the time to complete this pretty intricate modification to this player. Let's quickly check out the before and after pics and then I'll provide some additional details.
Front View Of The Player
https://i.vgy.me/6kXRWn.jpg
Back Panel "Before"
https://i.vgy.me/LFap2e.jpg
Back Panel "After"
https://i.vgy.me/NqOLBj.jpg
Back Panel "After" (wide view)
https://i.vgy.me/HxUJ3d.jpg
Back Panel "After" (side view)
https://i.vgy.me/RqlVLl.jpg
So now I'll break this mod down into four sections; 1) Back Panel Preparation, 2) Digital Output Mod, 3) AC-3 RF Output Mod, and 4) Adding Labels To The New Output Jacks.
Back Panel Preparation:
The first major challenge that literally took over a year to think about was how to punch out a square hole for the optical version of the Digital Output. I actually considered just doing the coaxial version of the Digital Output to simplify the mod but I really didn't want to waste the optical option that was part of the kit that I purchased. Here is the board that I used for this mod ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/CDROM-car-navigation-digital-signal-shaping-buffer-board-SPDIF-fiber-coaxial-out/323774426627 ).
https://i.vgy.me/rpwQ6q.jpg
I also considered just mounting this board simply "anywhere" inside the player and running a permanent optical cable out of a simple punch out but I thought it would look really cheesy (glad I did not do it).
In any case, let's get to the back panel. Of course, one has to remove it off of the player for the sake of ease especially since I'm going to be punching out three holes instead of the usual one hole in my previous mods. The panel came off pretty easily with only nine screws holding it in place.
https://i.vgy.me/JSpl4j.jpg
Now let's turn the panel around to see where I'm going to punch out of the holes.
https://i.vgy.me/nZnH9C.jpg
Here are the lines I drew out on the back to figure out a good placement as well as to line-up all three holes evenly....
https://i.vgy.me/xtcSNC.jpg
..... and finally a test fit to see if any obstructions could be a problem.
https://i.vgy.me/xyWugl.jpg
https://i.vgy.me/Tz50lg.jpg
The next step is to just punch out the holes with my Roper Whitney #5 Junior Hand Punch using the 3/32" punch size (about a 1/4" diameter).
https://i.vgy.me/MeqkeR.jpg
I prefer this over drilling as I feel it's a less risky option in respect to slipping or even bending the back panel if I was to apply pressure w/ a drill
I chose the following locations based on trying to line-up them up w/ the other RCA jacks on the bottom (at least on the left side) but I especially wanted my new jack openings to be straight across the top.
https://i.vgy.me/Ao1Ncm.jpg
Next, I needed to enlarge all three holes w/ a reamer as they were all just a tad too small for the RCA jacks and the optical transmitter.
https://i.vgy.me/Ex0HZh.jpg
The hole on the left is now enlarged and still looks nice and clean.
https://i.vgy.me/1cgT39.jpg
So now the challenge is to make a square opening for the optical transmitter. I first start w/ getting a template of the exact size I need and I found it on a CLUX HDMI Extractor.
https://i.vgy.me/rzPIRD.jpg
https://i.vgy.me/CIC9gq.jpg
I had the CLUX faceplate removed and centered it on the hole I needed shaved out (and used double stick tape to secure it).
https://i.vgy.me/lzIVY4.jpg
The next step is to use the reamer to enlarge the hole.....
https://i.vgy.me/bqFBzD.jpg
https://i.vgy.me/s5UvU0.jpg
.....and then I'll switch to a triangular file (Crescent Nicholson 21874NN)
https://i.vgy.me/7B2ksk.jpg
(thanks to "integra" for the advice on the file he used on his ADP-303 mod :thumbup:).
This took awhile to grind down but the results were amazing.
https://i.vgy.me/92H38j.jpg
https://i.vgy.me/V2lrcU.jpg
https://i.vgy.me/8HNt4G.jpg
Here is the optical transmitter being test fitted and it's a perfect fit.....
https://i.vgy.me/Vw5FdP.jpg
..... and now showing a screw hole punched out to mount the optical transmitter
https://i.vgy.me/L96Hdt.jpg
Now we have all three jacks mounted.....
https://i.vgy.me/EUWgoD.jpg
https://i.vgy.me/jGxOgZ.jpg
.....and tested for clearance w/ the tray retracted.
https://i.vgy.me/IyI904.jpg
Now it's time to move on to the next segment of this mod (but I'll still cover more about these jacks toward the end).
Digital Output Mod
My first step was to first remove the optical transmitter that came w/ the board as the original transmitter came with no mounting hole (the intent of this board was to use the board itself as the basis of a mount but that wasn't going to work here). Also, I had the RCA jack removed as I did not like the way it extended out and I wanted it to match the other RCA jack for the AC3-RF Out.
https://i.vgy.me/R2lWYv.jpg
Here is the board now w/ the new optical transmitter now soldered in and I also had hot glue added to the sides to strengthen its connection to the board (the transmitter housing is not well secured to the transmitter itself so the glue was necessary).
https://i.vgy.me/MMhkLA.jpg
Moving on, I soldered in a coax wire to the pad where the RCA jack used to reside so I could connect it up to the new jack I have mounted to the back panel.
https://i.vgy.me/HHf3bx.jpg
https://i.vgy.me/vSPwxl.jpg
(red arrows indicate hot glue to add additional mounting strength for the board to the back panel)
Now it's time to tap the digital signal from the player to the board. The interface is right off the Sony CXD2500AQ DSP as shown here.
https://i.vgy.me/S9ahL0.jpg
Pin 60 will be the tap to provide the signal while Pin 59 is just a verification that the digital output is set to "on" (if there was 0 vdc on pin 59, I would have to jumper a 5vdc point to it). Fortunately, it was getting 5vdc so I didn't have to make any changes. The kit included a coax wire that was pre-tinned and I had it soldered in from the opposite side.
https://i.vgy.me/5o5Lcb.jpg
(coax wire to pin 60 and green wire to GND)
Moving on, we'll also need a 5vdc power supply so that was as simple as finding some jumpers that were already labeled.
https://i.vgy.me/UE4ACK.jpg
The Digital Output is now complete and now it’s time to move on to the next step.
AC-3 RF Output Mod
So I'll be using my 2nd scratch built AC3 board that I built over two years ago (can't believe it's been that long).
Top
https://i.vgy.me/T6XUSz.jpg
Bottom
https://i.vgy.me/ZPHJS3.jpg
I won't get into details regarding the board itself since I covered it in this previous post. >>> https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=7827
The focus here is mounting the board and running the wires.
First step, I needed to punch a hole into the board so I can install a plastic stand off....
https://i.vgy.me/jIn1KK.jpg
.... and put some electrical tape on the bottom of the board as a precaution against shorting in case it falls on to the main board.
https://i.vgy.me/hGD8fH.jpg
Next up, time to pick a place to mount the board and I chose a location toward the front of the player that limits the length the AFM signal needs to travel to it (it was mentioned in instructions I have received in the past to keep this cable under 10" as a means to reduce signal loss but I'm not sure how definitive that advice is).
https://i.vgy.me/aUESqY.jpg
The AFM point is tapped from the audio board (hangs vertical on the right side of the player) off of the middle pin of transistor Q351 which is located right before the band pass filters of the CX chip.
https://i.vgy.me/Wm9cBC.jpg
I had my coax cable soldered from the other side as such and also had the shielding grounded via the green wire.
https://i.vgy.me/VtMUvm.jpg
The remaining wires needed for the board are +5vdc (red), -5vdc (blue), Mute (yellow), GND (black), and another RF cable to the RCA jack. Here are images of all of them connected up.....
https://i.vgy.me/an8drZ.jpg
https://i.vgy.me/blTTSi.jpg
..... and the AC3-RF board w/ all the wires now connected.
https://i.vgy.me/ABILYe.jpg
Now a wide shot showing the entirety of the two mods.
https://i.vgy.me/D3GCdj.jpg
And finally, a shot of how much clearance there was w/ the tray. It looks close to hitting it but in reality there is still plenty of room.
https://i.vgy.me/J3426E.jpg
I tested the board w/ an AC3 LD and confirmed the signal was passing to my Demodulator / Processor and I did get a voltage output on the RCA jack at around 4.3 volts w/ the mute control operating correctly to kill that power on pause and stop (I really do feel if anyone does this mod to really try and get your mute control to work as a means to prevent extraneous noise on your speakers during start up and side changes).
Adding Labels To The New Output Jacks
So finally we're near the end and believe it or not this was somewhat a complicated mess. I originally wanted the Digital Outs to emphasize their use to transfer both PCM and DTS encoding but space between the jacks and my pickiness to maintain the font size made that difficult as you will see.
https://i.vgy.me/YoAbUq.jpg
https://i.vgy.me/JRTIR9.jpg
I ended up w/ the labeling you see @ the top of this post and overall I'm pretty happy with it. I was trying for all three labels to have the same height so they looked even across. Unfortunately, I think I made a total of four attempts to get it perfect and in the end I got tired of trying.
I had the player tested on AC3 & DTS LDs' and DTS CD. The mod worked as it should and it was thrilling knowing that I was listening to a sound codec that over a week ago the player was incapable of playing. And since it's a CD Changer as well, now I have the convenience of playing multiple DTS (or standard) CD titles without getting up from my seat (this is actually the only CD Changer I've ever owned). Picture quality wise, this player is definitely not impressive as it is a bit noisy but it still holds up fine (especially with discs that have good mastering). I'll be using this player soon on my cheap set-up so I can pull my ProScan out for some much delayed minor maintenance and further test the player.
Hope everyone enjoyed the post. 8-) |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 28 Mar 2021, 21:57
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Are there any other sources that I should check?
I would check on local electronics stores that sell used audio/video equipment or even a Goodwill. I've been able to pick up at least one gem doing just that (a Mitsubishi, M-V7055 for the ridiculous price of $40).
As for your gears possibly being damaged on your player, you might want to consider this idea....
https://www.instructables.com/Broken-Gear-Repair/
I have a Sony MDP-650 with a really chewed up gear and I'm going to try to try this idea since there is little hope of getting this part. I decided that I'm going to use this type of epoxy.....
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-16002TRI-QuikSteel-Reinforced/dp/B000FW7UOM
..... as it appears to combine the two mentioned in the above post. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 29 Mar 2021, 09:09
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Thanks everyone for the compliments :).
This mod really was a labor of love to me and I have to admit I enjoyed just about the entire 10+ hours I spent on it (13+ hours if you count the three hours I spent two years ago to build the AC3 board). This was my first "from scratch" LD player mod job in 12 years and definitely the most challenging with that square hole and just being plain picky about getting all the punch outs perfect (can't make a mistake on alignment since there would be no chance for a do over).
I'll probably be setting up the player on my system in the next few days and really put it through its paces. I never really used this player very much in the past so it will be getting a good workout for the first time (especially on those new outputs).
My next project will be modding my CLD-D703 with an internal AC-3 RF Demodulator and then followed by a CLD-97 that may just get an AC3-RF mod only (unless I can fit a Demodulator into that unit as well). Neither of them will be as challenging as this M90 but I'm sure I'll enjoy getting them completed as well. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 29 Mar 2021, 17:52
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This is definitely an odd issue.
It plays CD's fine (which is always Side A) but LD playback on Side A is just crap but B is nearly perfect. I would assume nothing electronic is messed up since B looks great. Thus, I'm thinking it could be some additional mechanical adjustment just for the A side. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 03 Apr 2021, 20:43
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It seems my 315 is missing this IC802 that everyone is talking about. :/
Unplug your player, pull board and flip it.
Yup...the chip is on the other side of the board since it is a surface mount IC.
Just the same with my CLD-M90 I just modded...
Green Side
https://i.vgy.me/qWZO9q.jpg
Brown Side
https://i.vgy.me/d30bQW.jpg |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 05 Apr 2021, 18:18
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Not to be self promoting (but I guess I am ), my recent mod turned out pretty damn good as well  .
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 19 Apr 2021, 06:42
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| I would start with looking @ the video and power supply section and see if you notice any dried or popped capacitors. Also, look for any discoloration on the boards as this would be a sign of overheating (and you might even find leaked fluid from bad caps as well). |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 20 Apr 2021, 01:48
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Ok... possibly the final post about this player (or not :D )....
It appears that I do have the CD skipping issue resolved finally. It was more simple than I thought as it just needed lubrication on the sled rail (noted in red). After I sparingly oiled it with a thin synthetic oil, it tested fine w/ all the problematic CDs' that I threw @ it.
https://i.vgy.me/Z2F8N2.jpg
In addition, I did order a couple of belts for the sled and compared it w/ the diameter of the one in the player (noted in blue) and found the older belt to be so slightly larger in diameter so I replaced it anyway. I'm leaning on the idea that the lack of lubrication and and the stretched belt probably contributed to the skipping.
Lastly, it appears that I do have a couple of cracked sections in the drive rail for the pick up. Here is a pic of one of them...
https://i.vgy.me/7Nn8nk.jpg
I did think at first that this could be the skipping issue but I confirmed w/ cplusplus that is rarely the case unless the pick-up has issues transversing the crack. In my case as well, I tested the skipping section of one of my CD's and found that the pick-up gear was no where close to the location of the crack.
So with all that hopefully now resolved, it is time for me to move this player to my set-up sometime this week. Can't wait to have it working in a real world environment for awhile ;).
Addendum as of 4/29/2021:
I did get the player integrated into my low cost set-up which is essentially my Sony SDP-E800 connected up w/ a Logitech 5.1 PC speaker set-up.
Here is the view from the back showing all the connections...
https://i.vgy.me/J8IsVj.jpg
..... and a front view showing the unit playing an AC3 LD ("discrete" indicator lit on the E800 to indicate presence of AC3 coding).
https://i.vgy.me/ihfSMg.jpg
I have been playing more CDs' as of late and the player is overall doing well. I did find an odd issue where it won't play one specific CD-R discs properly (warbling and distortion) and after some troubleshooting (including temporary pot adjustments) I'm going to assume it's just an odd compatibility issue since it plays everything else I throw @ it. Now I really need to sit back and watch a movie in its entirety ;). |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 20 Apr 2021, 16:37
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I’m impressed you got it fixed with a simple swap. Gives me some assurance that it may not be as hard when I have to attempt it myself.  |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 22 Apr 2021, 04:51
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..was not familiar with the 'Karaoke Mode' button :lol:
This mode seems to 'Pause' each Track...was that it all it was
It was that and (at least on the Pioneer units) it would switch to the analog track so that you can use the multiplex control (Balance knob on your unit) to isolate between the left and right channels as there would be a mono music track on the left and a mono music+vocals track on the right (if disc was encoded that way). This was either used to help singers practice or use it like a duet mode. The digital tracks on a Karaoke disc would be a stereo version of the music only track.
...More testing to be done with more CD's....just played a CD complete all good..sounds good.! Closer at the least!
So how did you fix the CD playback issue? Pot adjustment? |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 29 Apr 2021, 09:25
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My USA copy of Starship-Troopers looks and has incredible AC-3 sounds until side B which has minor horizontal dashes but nothing crazy but the Dolby AC-3 its completely shot, any technical reason for why the AC-3 is first to go?
Well, a good reason is compression.
Remember, AC3 is compressed audio unlike PCM & analog audio which is uncompressed. Since compression means there is less data to begin with, losing even a little bit of it is going to foul up the decoder's ability to perform and what you get is more break up that can eventually lead to the decoder just simply giving up and muting the audio. With PCM, you can lose some data and the error correction for the most part can still compensate to fill in some of the missing data (but too much lost data and it will become unplayable as well).
It is just the same with the video rot we see on LD manifesting itself as drop outs. The player can deal with most video rot since it's uncompressed analog and thus will play fine but the picture is going to look like crap. When a DVD (which is compressed MPEG video) rots, for the most part the picture always looks great until it gets to the point when there is so much data loss that the disc just simply won't play anymore. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 29 Apr 2021, 17:25
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If you are not in a hurry to get a remote, I would wait in that case.
I have practiced a lot of patience in getting what I want on eBay and at some point a better deal always comes along. For now, you can use any Pioneer remote to control the player but the only thing not available will be the five disc selection buttons. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 02 May 2021, 05:08
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I just picked up a broken CLD-3070 for $25 about two weeks ago that appears it may have the gummed up mechanism issue. Was planning on tearing it open soon to verify and fix it.
But yeah... definitely this baby is built really well and I would think it stands a chance to survive a trip in the mail. Regardless, it would still be better to just pick it up. I had to drive about 90 min to pick up mine. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 09 May 2021, 20:48
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It's possible you may just have cold solder connection on the button itself.
The only way to know is to remove the front panel and have a look @ that area. Also, when you have it opened, take a voltmeter and follow the traces from the button back to the chip that controls it and look for more colder solder leads. And course, you just need a soldering iron to reflow the solder. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 17 May 2021, 16:27
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My CLD-3030 (U.S. version of CLD-99S) can play the LD Single disc just fine. I know that the CLD-99S did not come with a built in adapter to play the 3" CD Single so maybe that could be related to why it needs this LD Single adapter.
https://www.lddb.com/laserdisc/56386/JB ... CD-Adapter |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 17 May 2021, 16:41
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I am aware of that.
I'm just mentioning the CD3 adapter since the CLD-99S should be able to play the LD Single just like the CLD-3030 since they are literally identical players. However, the minor difference was that CD3 adapter so that might indicate there is a minor design difference affecting clamping for the LD Single. |
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Thanks list