It is currently 17 Nov 2019, 19:38

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 Post subject: Re: Datasheet PM4007A
Posted: 15 May 2018, 07:07 

ldfan wrote:
Not sure if this will help...

This is a partial pic of the Sample Rate Systems AC3-RF Demodulator schematic showing the pin out of the PM-4007A.


This is probably the actual pin-out (from the service manual):

Attachment:
PM4007A.gif


Julien

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Posted: 17 May 2018, 18:47 

A little while ago I invited Julien to be part of my Laser Amplifiers interview series and I was super-stoked he said yes and we pulled this off.

It's Julien's birthday today - HAPPY BIRTHDAY!! Now enjoy the interview y'all :thumbup:

http://www.laser-disc.com/laser-amplifiers-julien-wilk

http://www.laser-disc.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/amplifiers-300x300.jpg

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Posted: 21 May 2018, 14:16 

I’m impressed.

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Posted: 22 May 2018, 04:57 

The other option that I do is to just solder the parts directly to the Audio board, that way you don't have to worry about mounting an extra board.


Hmmm... never thought about that and also curious to see how such a mod would look like. Would you have any pics to show?

Also, I would still prefer putting the parts on a separate board since I have swapped these boards into different machines and it's obvious it's much easier to move the circuit in this fashion since it's self contained.

No I don’t have any pictures, it’s different for each model. Your board would be faster to install, I just like to add directly to the board as it fits in tight spaces as in some of the older players and I never have to worry about it coming loose inside the player.

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Posted: 14 Jun 2018, 03:33 

Harman Kardon ADP-303 Digital output

The ADP303 mod thread I mentioned earlier.

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 Post subject: Re: TA-F808ES Pain
Posted: 18 Aug 2018, 14:16 

Yep, it's all part of the challenge of seeking stuff from a better era.

Good luck with that Marantz

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Posted: 03 Oct 2018, 19:26 

No matter, glad you are here.

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Posted: 02 Nov 2018, 04:10 

He needs to try a CD as analog audio can work with low RF levels. If cleaning the laser lens when you have it open doesn’t help then you either have a weak laser output or you have 3 Laserdiscs with laserrot.

If it cannot play a CD then the RF level is weak.

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Posted: 20 Feb 2019, 14:53 

There are many ways to do this and it all depends on what you have and your experience with them.

1 get stain that is the correct color, touch it up wait many days for it to dry and then fill with epoxy and blue tape to hold it in place.
after its dry you can sand lightly to smooth and then touch up with clear coat.

2 you can get powered pigment and mix into the epoxy and do the same with blue tape to keep it in place sand etc.

3 you can get artist oil paint to match the color and do the first step just swap oil paint with stain.
Good luck, its very easy if you've done it before and if you have the materials.

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 Post subject: My 59th LaserDisc player
Posted: 14 Mar 2019, 21:00 

Nothing to see here. Move along.

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Posted: 25 Mar 2019, 09:07 

I'm working on a good reproduction of the M-holder, as discussed here: https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=8310

I received the first prototype (printed in MultiJet Fusion from HP) which seems to be very solid
There is only 2-3 little things to correct and I'll order a new prototype, which should be a final version.
From there I will be able to order more stucks if some guys need it.

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Posted: 01 May 2019, 03:53 

So I recently picked up a CLD-D703 and honestly, I'm not too impressed with it.

1) Speckles/blips on discs are much more present than they are on my CLD-1070 (I probably have said 1080 on other posts, but it's a 1070).

2) I notice a weird type of subtle grain on the picture that is hard to describe but there's like a texture on the image that doesn't seem like it's inherent to the information on the disc. Note that I've been turning off the DNR as other have recommended, so maybe that would help, but I don't like the idea of old tech noise reduction altering the original image.

3) I have one disc that has distortion on sibilants ('s' sounds) that isn't present on my CLD-1070. I even toggled the different audio modes and it's always there. It's possible it happens on other discs, but I haven't noticed in the small sample I've tested.

So I'm thinking that for my purposes, the D703 is just not the type of player I want. I've read a bunch of praise for the CLD-3030 and something tells me that would be a nice player to look for if I want to get something either better than or at least on par with my 1070 as a backup. I really actually like the simplicity of the single-side play funtionality too, and it seems like a safer bet when buying a shipped player from eBay.

Anyway, has anyone else had this experience with the D703 or D704?

1) Pioneer used to fill drop-outs with black pixels but changed that to white with the X080 series, many people complained about the visual differences. And the 703 does have a sharper picture so things are easier to see.

2) The 1070 has a lower noise power supply and a softer picture, the 703 has a switching power supply to save money which will increase noise that can cause grain and the sharper picture makes it easier to see the grain. Personally I turn OFF the DNR when watching the 703/704/79/99. You just happen to prefer the film like smooth picture, other prefer the sharp dynamic picture. Your preference is more toward the 1070. The LD-S2 would be the ultimate player for you.

3) The 1070 uses multi-bit DACs verses the bit-stream in the 703 but that should not be the difference. The 703 has much higher grade audiophile decoupling capacitors to let the high frequencies out and better define the sound field, the 1070 has typical decoupling capacitors and they act as low pass filters. On a audiophile home theater you would hear the difference. The 703 would be more open and clear and the 1070 more closed in.

These issues are all user dependent according to your preference. The 703 when properly adjusted will give a very nice picture, it is just not the picture you prefer.

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 Post subject: Re: LD-V4400
Posted: 09 May 2019, 06:55 

once I drilled a small hole and used a triangular "file" (not sure about the term in english) to make the optical square fit. It takes much patience.
Used a back panel from a next. gen player as a template. once again it takes patience cutting it this way.

On my cld-d515 I cut the backpanel around the location where the optical is positioned now and put in that partical piece of backpanel coming from a cld-d925 along with the components from the 925. I used the disc grinder with a 1 mm disc to allow for accurate positioning. besides a narrow cut it looks great.

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Posted: 23 Jun 2019, 06:02 

If the RF signal is adjusted too low or the output is getting weak the digital audio decode requires a larger signal so it will start having dropouts first. Then when the RF is a little weaker you’ll start to see the video degrade. Try turning up the RF gain to see if that fixes the digital audio dropouts.

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Posted: 10 Jul 2019, 22:46 

I've a Sony MDP850D player. It was the first player I bought back in 2006 but I no longer use it as I've many other machines.
It cannot be used to play 5" CDV/ CDs etc as they will jam and you will endup having to take the top off to get them out!! - that was the case from when I got it even though it was sold to me as working like new! Re the 5" disc problem - I had something similar with mine a few years ago, it was simply that the upper disc clamp was a little 'sticky' (whatever they'd used to coat it had decayed somewhat after a couple of decades), so when ejecting a disc the lightweight 5" disc would remain stuck for a second on the upper clamp, and then fall off after the tray had slid out. I gave it a bit of a clean and it's been okay since.
It also suffered from occasional side change issues which I never experienced with any of the Pioneer machines. Sony LD players aren't very good. Never had any side change issues. In theory the continuous "U"-shaped track on the Sony double-side machines looks as though it should be simpler and less troublesome than the motorised flipping Pioneer design, but perhaps in practice that isn't the case...?

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Posted: 11 Jul 2019, 18:32 

I will admit I don't really understand most of this stuff. For example the LD-S1 I got is a really nice player but basically doesn't support any CAV functions at all from what I can tell.

Please re-read the thread everyone. EVERY LD PLAYER supports CAV functions. All of them. Even the ones that ran in Buick kiosks in 1978. All of them. Yours, mine, everyone. If you have the correct remote or serial access it will happen.

Now someone is going to produce the one player model number that somehow doesn’t but I’m %99.9 every single player does. It’s integral to the LD spec. It’s not a fancy feature that requires extra hardware. On CAV discs functions like Step and Frame or Time access are built into the format and a good selling feature. There is no reason to ever disable it when designing a player.

I can imagine someone making a deck so high end that they wanted to disable “vulgar” functions like Multi-Speed (like how there is no Scan on McIntosh CD players sometimes) but in the case of Pioneer they didn’t do that. Even the X-0 has the same Step buttons as everything else had so I’m pretty sure this never happened. It may have happened with a Sony but it would be broken by now anyway. The S201, the cheapest ever Pioneer deck also had the same CAV functions as everything else.

If you have CLV discs and want the CAV tricks your player must have digital field memory. That is something that many players, many good ones, don’t have but it was more common as time went on.

Also, all of this is explained in the manuals for the players. Now we live in a age where electronics are designed to be thrown away yearly but printing a manual wouldn’t be green so they don’t make them and we learn to operate stuff by oral tradition or YouTube. LD players however all come with a manual that tells every function it has, describes how to do every one of them, lists all features and formats supported, etc. If you can find a manual and you have the means I highly recommend it. Even a model close to yours may be educational.

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Posted: 14 Jul 2019, 01:11 

I admit, I am still a big noob. I am also very thankful that this forum/site exists as a resource.

And let me just add; it's not like these questions are like "someone we know but I won't say" who was asking questions that just had no business being on the forum in most cases. :roll:

BLOODY TOPPER.

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 Post subject: Re: CLD-97 Drive Gear?
Posted: 14 Jul 2019, 03:13 

Buy a non-working CLD-2080 and hopefully that gear is good on that one and swap it onto your laser.

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Posted: 20 Jul 2019, 02:08 

With the top off and drawer open unplug the unit. For the laser movement you'll see 2 gear that are between the laser pickup worm gear and the mechanism track. Just push the laser forward and back and see if either gear moves up, down, forward, or back; the only movement you should see is a rotating. If you see the up,down.forward. or back of either gear then you need to replace the MHolder before anything else. I believe you have this issue as the video sounded too noisy when the laser moved on side B.

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Posted: 21 Jul 2019, 23:13 

The Centering adjustment is a lateral adjustment which moves the pickup rail left or right. If it is not centered properly, the laser is picking hitting the track off-center. There is a lock screw on the top of the b-side mechanism and on the right, an adjustment which will move the assembly left and right. Loosen the screw and adjust the mechanism slightly either direction while the pickup is trying to read the TOC. Once you find the "sweet spot", tighten the lock screw.

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Posted: 10 Aug 2019, 05:23 

Most likely need a new loading belt to fix your issue.

See my post below that shows how to replace the belt.

https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=5774&start=20


You’ll need to order a Pioneer belt under reference number PEB-1013. Here is one available on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PIONEER-PEB1013-PEB1127-GEM4-3-SQUARE-BELT-/121431335182

https://miro.medium.com/max/620/1*ItxyggIvqz2ISruD84Ieow.png

Thanks so much though, you've been a massive help. I'll let you know how repairs go!

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Posted: 15 Aug 2019, 15:45 

Spent the whole day processing covers today.
Exhausted!

Attachment:
covers-august.png


700+ covers among which 250 covers are new, pushing the cover(age) above 59%.

Most of the 700 are including both front and back covers.

Julien

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Posted: 17 Aug 2019, 00:13 

DVL LD playback is pretty good actually, yeah. The DVD players are garbage.

I honestly prefer LD only units. The remotes are way better and all the buttons have a use. The whole experience is totally LD that way.

But I also agree with the other guys. If you’re going to be a real LD man you’re pretty much going to be shopping for LD players for a long as you live. You need working ones more than anything else and availability is bad on every player and they break in shipping about %30 of the time so...even if you do get exactly the player you want right off the bat it’s still then going to be your only player which is no good. You need a backup or two, decks for different rooms, parts players, and spare room for the broken decks you hope to get fixed one day.

That’s LD life. If it scares you go away and leave the what’s left to the OGs!

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Posted: 22 Aug 2019, 01:21 

Definitely the grip ring is bad. It does not spin up fast enough to properly read the TOC (Table Of Contents) so it defaults to a single sided disc mode and will not let you switch to side B (It won’t work anyway because of the gross grip ring slippage you have). When this bad they pretty much need to be replaced of cleaned and then coated with something like Plastic-Dip as the original ring is too far gone to recover back to near original gripping condition.

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Posted: 22 Aug 2019, 01:26 

On some of the older models Pioneer has a switch on the back of the front panel that sensed the door being opened or closed. I’d take off the front panel and see if EAD incorporated the switch and it is working properly.
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