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 Post subject: Decoder accessories
Posted: 25 Nov 2011, 10:03 

So, I'm preparing to start serious practical research into the MUSE format. It won't be for another couple of months, but I want to prepare the way. I've started thinking about possible pieces of hardware I might build in the course of verifying my understanding of the format, & I wanted to get some feedback from people as to whether they sound useful. If I could sell a couple of these gizmos, to recoup some of the costs of my experiments, of course that would be pleasing as well.

I'm not ready to start dealing with video yet, & when I do it'll mostly be on the encoding side, but the way the existing decoders handle the 4-channel A-Mode audio is kind of inconvenient. Unless you have something which can handle two simultaneous SPDIF PCM inputs, which is virtually unheard-of, you have to deal with an analog multichannel connexion, which can get awkward. And not all decoders (HV-VMD1, I'm looking at you) even have the four-channel analog outs! On the other hand, every decoder has the "MUSE bitstream" output, which dumps the 1350 kbps DANCE datastream. This was meant for operation with outboard equipment for some kind of data services which I don't think were ever implemented, but it could just as easily be used with an outboard audio decoder.

So I thought of two gadgets. One, which seems useful for diagnostic purposes but probably wouldn't appeal to anyone but me, is a sort of headphone amp, with LEDs to show which channels (1-4) are present, & buttons to assign one to each side of a stereo headphone jack. The other is probably more useful, putting the audio onto some kind of connector which can carry multichannel PCM. I guess this would be HDMI for most users, although I think there are some components which can accept it over some kind of USB connexion.

Anyway, tell me what you think.

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Posted: 18 Aug 2013, 04:28 

Ultimate list of Laserdisc titles that are technically and/or content wise significant

Here is the list of Laserdisc titles that are technically unique (i.e. only OAR edition, theatrical audio mix etc.) and do not have any equivalent on any other format. The list also includes Laserdisc titles that have extra content or different cuts of the content that are not available on any other format.

Courtesy of lizardkingjr, there exist two threads for commentaries unique to Laserdisc. Below are the links for those threads.

This list will be updated as more titles are suggested. There will be separate chapters for popular movies such as Star Wars, and The Godfather as these titles have several different editions unique to Laserdisc.
Some Laserdisc titles listed here may exist on DVD or Blu-ray on different markets than the US.

Please Suggest Laserdisc titles that has,
- Different aspect ratio than found on other media i.e. open matte, OAR etc.
- Different audio track i.e. theatrical mix, theatrical soundtrack restored etc.
- Different color timing i.e. director approved color timing, theatrical color timing etc.
- Different cut of the movie i.e. director’s cut, special edition, theatrical cut, unrated cut etc.
- Different extras i.e. commentaries, documentary, interview etc.
- Also titles exist only on Laserdisc.

For none-US releases, please indicate whether they are English friendly or not (i.e. anime, foreign etc.)

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Posted: 29 Mar 2017, 07:31 

Now that the last Laserdisc player was produced already many years ago, wouldn't it be nice to have a complete list of all LD player models sold from 1978 until 2009?
I have nowhere seen such a complete list and try now to produce one by myself, I appreciate every help to complete this list.

Thanks to retro_games the laserdisc player model LJR I from Runco got into my list.
Thanks to lons_vex I could add the laserdisc player Acustorama CDV 496 from Grundig, which is a OEM model from Philips.
Thanks to svwees I could add 6 "CDV players". "CDV players" are players restricted to 12cm VSD, 12cm CDV, 12cm CD, and 8cm CD (=CDS). CDVs and VSDs contain a 5-6 minutes long laserdisc part with analog video and digital audio. CDVs contain additionally a 20 min CD part with audio only. CDV players are "laserdisc enhanced" CD players that cannot play the large laserdiscs, because they have got only a small CD type tray. The "exotic" Pioneer LD-V3000 that can play only 20cm laserdiscs was already in my list before.
Thanks to scytales I could add 3 LD players manufactured in the Soviet Union by Rus and Amfiton, plus 1 manufactured in Russia by Kolibri, the latter being a licensed clone of a Philips CDV 496.
Thanks to admin Julien I could add Clarion MV-7000A.

My last update was on July 15th, 2017 .

----- THE STILL INCOMPLETE LASERDISC PLAYERS AND RECORDERS LIST - currently showing 1024 devices -----
"Laserdisc" is a registered trademark of the company Pioneer, and in the year 1989 Pioneer has allowed that this name be used for all compatible laser videodiscs, i.e. compatible with the MCA and Philips optical videodisc specification. Therefore this list contains devices for NTSC Laserdiscs, PAL Laserdiscs, and MUSE Hi-Vision Laserdiscs. The one-time recordable RLV discs (NTSC, CAV format, analog sound) are compatible with normal NTSC Laserdiscs players, therefore a RLV recorder is also listed here.

Aiwa (4): LV‑X310, LV‑X510K, LV‑Z1000(H), XV‑999,

Akai / A&D (2): DP‑L1000, LD‑V10,

Amfiton [Амфитон] (1): VP 201 [ВП 201],

Carver (1): MD/V‑500,

Clarion (6): MV-3000A, MV-3100A, MV-7000A, MVA‑300‑100, MVA‑400‑100, MVA-450,

Columbia (17): CLK‑100 (system), CLK‑1500 (system), CLK‑5000 (system), CLK‑600 (system), CLK‑600D (system), CLK‑610 (system), CLK‑650 (system), CLK‑750 (system), CLK‑800 (system), CLK‑888 (system), CLK‑88G (system), CLK‑90 (system), ULA‑100, ULA‑110, ULA‑120, ULA‑130, ULA‑88,

Curtis Mathes (1): CDV‑901,

DaiichiKosho / DKKaraoke (3): LD-V10 (system), LC-V30 (system), DKK-100 (system),

Denon / Denonet (31): DCD‑GX, LA‑1500C, LA‑1600C, LA‑2000, LA‑210, LA‑2100, LA‑2150K, LA‑2200K, LA‑2300, LA‑2300A, LA‑2500, LA‑260C, LA‑2700, LA‑270C, LA‑280, LA‑280C, LA‑3000, LA‑3100 (G), LA‑3200, LA‑3300, LA‑3450K, LA‑3500, LA‑3500K (G), LA‑550C, LA‑560C, LA‑600, LA‑600D, LA‑700, LA‑800, LA‑900, LA‑V200 (G),

EAD (3): T‑7000, T‑8000, TheaterVision,

Faroudja (1): LD1000 ,

Fujitsu General (2): VKC‑20, VKC‑300,

Funai (1): MD‑K55,

Giga Networks (1): Visual Factory D20,

Grundig (1): Acustorama CDV 496,

Hitachi (27): HLD‑1000 (MUSE), LKS‑2900V (system), MX‑LD500CD, VIP‑11, VIP‑12, VIP‑15K, VIP‑16K, VIP‑200LK, VIP‑20D, VIP‑23D, VIP‑25DX, VIP‑30C, VIP‑31C, VIP‑32C, VIP‑35C, VIP‑5, VIP‑9500, VIP‑9550, VIP‑9600, VIP‑KX10, VIP‑KZ55EX, VIP‑KZ77G, VIP‑RX10EX, VIP‑RX6E, VIP‑RX6EX, VIP‑RX8EX, VIP‑SX55,

Kenwood (22): LVD‑07, LVD‑280, LVD‑290, LVD‑300, LVD‑310, LVD‑320, LVD‑68, LVD‑700, LVD‑710, LVD‑7i, LVD‑820R, LVD‑89V, LVD‑930R, LVD‑97, LVD-K1000 (system), LVD‑K300V, LVD‑K590V, LVD‑K7000, LVD‑K7100, LVD‑K9200, LVD‑V7, LVD‑Z1,

Kolibri [Колибри] (1): VP 101 [ВП 101],

Luxman (2): D‑08, D‑408,

Magnavox / MagnaVision (9): CDV‑305, CDV‑474, CDV‑484, VC‑8005, VC‑800GYOi, VC‑8010, VC‑8040, VH8000, WRV100,

Marantz (19): CDV‑400, CDV‑50, CDV‑570, CDV‑580, CDV‑610K, CDV‑70D, CDV-70K, CDV‑770, CDV‑780, CV‑55, LV‑100, LV‑101, LV‑10CD, LV‑11CD, LV‑1CD, LV-500, LV-510, LV-520, LV-520BL,

Matrox (2): CDV-1082, E‑VDP/MSNI,

MCA DiscoVision (1): PR‑7820,

McIntosh (1): MLD7020,

Mitsubishi (9): DL‑L1500, M‑V6020, M‑V6021, M‑V6022, M‑V6027, M‑V7010, M‑V7025, M‑V7057, M‑V8000,

MSB (7): CDV, Gold CDV, Gold LS2, Platinum LS2, Silver LS2, Silver LS2X, Silver LS2X w/int.AC3RF-dem,

NAD Electronics (1): NAD 5900,

NEC Home Entertainment (14): LD‑2000, PCE‑LD1, VP‑L700, VP‑L750, VP‑L760, VP‑L800, VP‑L850D, VP‑L860CV, VP‑L900, VP‑L900CD, VP‑L910, VP‑L910CD, VP‑L960CV, VP‑LS‑100,

Nikkodo / BMB (5): LV-100, LV-1200, LV-1500S, LV-2000, LV-220A,

ODC Nimbus (1): LVDR 610 (RLV recorder),

Onkyo (5): DX-V350, DX‑V370, DX‑V500, DX‑V801, ML‑200A,

Panasonic (42): AG‑LD20, AG‑LD30, LX‑100, LX‑1000, LX‑101, LX‑101U, LX‑120, LX‑121, LX‑200, LX‑200PX, LX‑300, LX‑310, LX‑600, LX‑900, LX‑900U, LX‑D570, LX‑H170, LX‑H180, LX‑H670, LX-H670U, LX‑H680, LX‑HD10 (MUSE), LX‑HD20 (MUSE), LX-K500, LX-K550, LX‑K570, LX‑K580V, LX-K590V, LX‑K630, LX‑K660, LX‑K670, LX‑K680, LX‑K700, LX‑K750, LX-K7500, LX‑K770EN, LX‑K770U, LX‑K780, LX‑K8000, LX‑V860, LX‑V860EN, LX‑V880,

Philips (44): CDV 185 (CDV-player), CDV 305, CDV 400, CDV 474, CDV 475, CDV 484, CDV 485, CDV 486, CDV 487, CDV 488, CDV 495, CDV 496, CDV 500, CDV 600, CDV 750, CDV 786, CDV 800, CDV 900, CDV 988, LDP‑400, LDP‑410, LDP‑600WS, VP 301, VP 310, VP 312, VP 380, VP 405, VP 406, VP 410, VP 412, VP 415, VP 500, VP 600, VP 620, VP 700, VP 720, VP 830, VP 831, VP 835, VP 837, VP 923, VP 931, VP 932 (=LVP‑22VP932), VP 935,

Pioneer (448): CLD‑01, CLD‑02, CLD‑05, CLD‑07G, CLD‑100, CLD‑100K, CLD‑100KV, CLD‑1010, CLD‑1030, CLD‑1050, CLD‑1070, CLD‑1070 Mil, CLD‑1080, CLD‑1090, CLD‑1091, CLD‑110, CLD‑110KVT, CLD‑110‑N, CLD‑1190, CLD‑1200, CLD‑1260, CLD‑1400, CLD‑1450, CLD‑1500, CLD‑150K, CLD‑1570K, CLD‑1580K, CLD‑1580K Mil, CLD‑1590K, CLD‑1600, CLD‑160K, CLD‑1700, CLD‑1710K, CLD‑1720K, CLD‑1730K, CLD‑1750, CLD‑1750K, CLD‑1750KV, CLD‑1800, CLD‑1810K, CLD‑1850, CLD‑1850K, CLD‑1950, CLD‑200, CLD‑200K, CLD‑2050, CLD‑2070, CLD‑2080, CLD‑2090, CLD‑210KVT, CLD‑2290, CLD‑2400, CLD‑2590K, CLD‑2600, CLD‑2700, CLD‑2710K, CLD‑2720K, CLD‑2730K, CLD‑2750K, CLD‑2760K, CLD‑2850, CLD‑2950, CLD‑303, CLD‑3030, CLD‑3060, CLD‑3070, CLD‑3080, CLD‑3090, CLD‑31, CLD‑313, CLD‑3380, CLD‑3390, CLD‑360, CLD‑3750K, CLD‑3750KV, CLD‑3760K, CLD‑3760KV, CLD‑406, CLD‑500, CLD‑5000, CLD‑505, CLD‑510, CLD‑5104, CLD‑52, CLD‑53, CLD‑535, CLD‑555, CLD‑59, CLD‑600, CLD‑605, CLD‑606, CLD‑616, CLD‑7, CLD‑70, CLD‑700, CLD‑700S, CLD‑7100, CLD‑737, CLD‑757, CLD‑77, CLD‑770, CLD‑79, CLD‑800, CLD‑838, CLD‑8380, CLD‑900 (NTSC), CLD-900 (PAL), CLD‑9000, CLD‑900S, CLD‑901, CLD‑909, CLD‑91, CLD‑91 mil, CLD‑919, CLD‑92, CLD‑939, CLD‑95, CLD‑950, CLD‑959, CLD‑97, CLD‑970, CLD‑98, CLD‑980, CLD‑99, CLD‑990, CLD‑995, CLD‑99S, CLD‑A100 LaserActive, CLD‑AK700, CLD‑C1, CLD‑C3, CLD‑C5G, CLD‑CLKV900, CLD‑CLKV920, CLD‑D1, CLD‑D104, CLD‑D304, CLD‑D380, CLD‑D390, CLD‑D3V, CLD‑D406, CLD‑D500, CLD‑D501, CLD‑D502, CLD‑D503, CLD‑D504, CLD‑D505, CLD‑D515, CLD‑D550, CLD‑D560, CLD‑D570, CLD‑D580, CLD‑D590, CLD‑D604, CLD‑D605, CLD‑D606, CLD‑D700, CLD‑D701, CLD‑D702, CLD‑D703, CLD‑D704, CLD‑D750, CLD‑D760, CLD‑D770, CLD‑D780, CLD‑D790, CLD‑D925, CLD‑D99, CLD‑DV3, CLD‑E100, CLD‑E110, CLD‑E130, CLD‑E140, CLD‑E2000, CLD‑E2200, CLD‑E505, CLD‑F1, CLD‑F7, CLD‑HF7G, CLD‑HF9G, CLD‑J420, CLD‑J700, CLD‑J720, CLD‑J910, CLD‑J990, CLD‑J990G, CLD‑J990‑K, CLD‑J990V, CLD‑K1000, CLD‑K11, CLD‑K1100, CLD‑K150, CLD‑K22G, CLD‑K33G, CLD‑K50, CLD‑K55G, CLD‑K600, CLD‑K66G, CLD‑K7, CLD‑K700, CLD‑K77G, CLD‑K8, CLD‑K80, CLD‑K800, CLD‑K88G, CLD‑K8V, CLD‑K99V, CLD‑LK66 (system), CLD‑LK80 (system), CLD‑LK99 (system), CLD‑M301, CLD‑M401, CLD‑M403, CLD‑M450, CLD‑M460, CLD‑M5, CLD‑M502, CLD‑M503, CLD‑M90, CLD‑M90‑J, CLD‑P2, CLD‑PC10, CLD‑R4, CLD‑R4-N, CLD‑R4G, CLD‑R5, CLD‑R6G, CLD‑R7G, CLD‑S104, CLD‑S105, CLD‑S180, CLD‑S180V, CLD‑S201, CLD‑S2010, CLD‑S250, CLD‑S260/SD, CLD‑S270, CLD‑S280, CLD‑S290, CLD‑S300V, CLD‑S303, CLD‑S304, CLD‑S305, CLD‑S310, CLD‑S310F, CLD‑S315, CLD‑S320F, CLD‑S330, CLD‑S350, CLD‑S360, CLD‑S370, CLD‑S406, CLD‑S500VT, CLD‑V1008, CLD‑V101, CLD‑V1212D, CLD‑V121G, CLD‑V190, CLD‑V202, CLD‑V2120D, CLD‑V2300D, CLD‑V2400, CLD‑V250, CLD‑V250G, CLD‑V2600, CLD‑V2800, CLD‑V300, CLD‑V303T, CLD‑V500, CLD‑V5000, CLD‑V510, CLD‑V520, CLD‑V700, CLD‑V710, CLD‑V720, CLD‑V730, CLD‑V740, CLD‑V750, CLD‑V760, CLD‑V820, CLD‑V840, CLD‑V850, CLD‑V860, CLD‑V870, CLD‑V880, CLD‑V900, CLD‑X919, CLD‑Z1, CCS‑LV1, CL‑7700S, CL‑J35, CL‑J350, CL‑J35LD, CL‑J35LDV, CL‑J550, CL‑J55LD, CL‑J55LDV, CL‑J560, CL‑J75, CL‑J750, CL‑J75LD, CL‑J760V, CL‑X90, CLK‑V900, CLK‑V920, CLK‑V940, CLK‑V950, CLX‑J100D, CO‑V100 (commander), CO‑V12 (commander), CO‑V200 (commander), CO‑V300 (commander), CO‑V50 (commander), DVK‑1000, DVK‑900, DVL‑700 (J), DVL‑700 (U), DVL‑9, DVL‑90, DVL‑909, DVL‑909E, DVL‑91, DVL‑919 (J), DVL‑919 (U), DVL‑919E, DVL‑H9, DVL‑K88, DVL‑V888, HLD‑1000 (MUSE), HLD‑V500 (MUSE), HLD‑V700 (MUSE), HLD‑X0 (MUSE), HLD‑X9 (MUSE), LC‑330 autochanger, LC‑V100 autochanger, LC‑V20 autochanger, LC‑V20‑K autochanger, LC‑V200 autochanger, LC‑V300 autochanger, LC‑V330 autochanger, LC‑V50 autochanger, LC‑V800 autochanger, LC‑V80TL autochanger, LD‑1000, LD‑1100 (AE), LD‑1100 (U), LD‑200, LD‑5000, LD‑510, LD‑5100, LD‑600, LD‑6200A, LD‑660, LD‑700, LD‑7000, LD‑707, LD‑7100, LD‑717, LD‑7200, LD‑7700S, LD‑8100, LD‑8200D, LD‑838D, LD‑850D, LD‑870, LD‑9200D, LD‑E100, LD‑E150, LD‑K17, LD‑K5, LD‑K7, LD‑LK77, LD‑S1, LD‑S2, LD‑S9, LD‑V10, LD‑V1000, LD‑V1001, LD‑V1003, LD‑V1010, LD‑V1012, LD‑V16, LD‑V17, LD‑V170, LD‑V180, LD‑V18T, LD‑V200, LD‑V2000, LD‑V2020, LD‑V2100, LD‑V2200, LD‑V3000 (LD20 only), LD‑V400, LD‑V4000, LD‑V4100, LD‑V4200, LD‑V4300D, LD‑V4400, LD‑V500, LD‑V510, LD‑V515SE, LD‑V520, LD‑V530, LD‑V540, LD‑V600A, LD‑V6000, LD‑V6000A, LD‑V6010A, LD‑V6100, LD‑V6200A, LD‑V800, LD‑V8000, LD‑W1, LD‑X1, LD‑X710, LJ‑V10 (commander), LJ‑V20 (commander), LJ‑V20‑K (commander), LJ‑V66 (commander), LK‑1030 (system), LK‑55 (system), LK‑60 (system), LK‑620 (system), LK‑630 (system), LK‑77 (system), LK‑80 (system), LK‑810 (system), LK‑820 (system), LK‑830 (system), LK‑88 (system), LK‑99 (system), LK‑P11 (system), LK‑V32 (system), LK‑V350 (system), LK‑V37 (system), LK‑V38 (system), LV‑4300D, LV‑P1, PD‑707V (CDV-player), PR‑7820, PR‑8210, PR‑8210A, SYSCOM D7100‑K, SYSCOM D7300‑K, VP‑1000, WAVE1000TV, WAVE700, WAVE700TV,

Proscan (5): PSLD40, PSLD41, PSLD43, PSLD45, PSLD46,

Proton (1): LD‑901,

Quasar (6): LD‑500, LD‑510, LD‑600, LD‑700, LD‑710, LD‑9090,

RCA (8): LDR‑300, LDR‑307, LDR‑310, LDR‑400, LDR‑500, LDR‑600, LDR‑610, LDR‑900K,

RDI Halcyon (1): Model 200,


Rus [Русь] (2): 501 VIDEO [501 ВИДЕО], VP 201 [ВП 201],

Samsung (20): DV‑430C, DV‑4260V, DV‑500K, DV‑500KN, DV‑5000, DV‑5000N, DV‑505K, DV-5100, DV‑530K, DV‑530VK, DV‑5500, DV‑550KP, DV‑550NKC, DV‑555K, DV‑6000, DV‑710K, DV‑710KN, DV‑7620KV, LD‑K700V, RS Renaissance,

Sansui (3): CL‑900XD, CL‑V3000, SV‑L1000,

Sanyo (7): LV-P1, LV-P500, LV‑P7, LV‑PK30, LV-PK45, SLV‑J1, SLV‑J2,

SEGA (1): VIP 9500SG,

Sharp (13): LD‑V950, MV‑D100, MV‑D1002, MV‑D200, MV‑D2000, MV-D50, MV-K20, MV‑K33, MV‑K520, MV‑K70, MV‑K7000, MV‑K7600, QT‑93V (CDV-player),

Sony (151): CDP‑301V (CDV-player), CLK‑700, HIL‑1000 (MUSE), HIL‑C1 (MUSE), HIL‑C2EX (MUSE), HIL‑C3 (MUSE), LDP‑1000, LDP‑1000A, LDP‑11, LDP‑1100, LDP‑1100A, LDP‑1200, LDP‑1400, LDP‑1401, LDP‑1450, LDP‑150, LDP‑1500, LDP‑1500P, LDP‑1550, LDP‑1550P, LDP‑1600, LDP‑1600P, LDP‑180P, LDP‑190, LDP‑2000, LDP‑2000P, LDP‑2100, LDP‑2200, LDP‑250CD, LDP‑330, LDP‑3300P, LDP‑330LC, LDP‑3600, LDP‑3600D, LDP‑505, LDP‑515, LDP‑525, LDP‑530, LDP‑550, LDP‑730, LDP‑750, LDP‑900, MDK‑500, MDK‑77A, MDK‑77P, MDP‑1000, MDP‑11, MDP‑1100, MDP‑111, MDP‑1150, MDP‑1200, MDP‑1550, MDP‑1700, MDP‑1700AR, MDP‑20, MDP‑200, MDP‑201, MDP‑210, MDP‑212, MDP‑222GX, MDP‑290, MDP‑315, MDP‑322GX, MDP‑333 (NTSC), MDP‑333 (PAL), MDP‑335GX, MDP‑355, MDP‑355GX, MDP‑3600D, MDP‑405, MDP‑405GX, MDP‑440, MDP‑450, MDP‑455 (J), MDP-455 (U), MDP‑455GX, MDP‑455SA, MDP‑500, MDP‑510, MDP‑515D, MDP‑533D, MDP‑550, MDP‑550AE, MDP‑555, MDP‑555F, MDP‑555SA, MDP‑600, MDP‑601, MDP‑605, MDP‑605GX, MDP‑640, MDP‑640D, MDP‑650, MDP‑650AE, MDP‑650D, MDP‑700, MDP‑711, MDP‑722, MDP‑722GX, MDP‑740D, MDP‑750, MDP‑755, MDP‑800, MDP‑801, MDP‑850D, MDP‑9, MDP‑911, MDP‑999, MDP‑A1, MDP‑A10, MDP‑A2, MDP‑A3, MDP‑A30, MDP‑A3000, MDP‑A500, MDP‑A600K, MDP‑A660K, MDP‑A7, MDP‑A800K2, MDP‑A880K, MDP‑A9, MDP‑AV1, MDP‑K1, MDP‑K15, MDP‑K3, MDP‑K35, MDP‑K5, MDP‑K50, MDP‑K8, MDP‑L405, MDP‑MR1, MDP‑MR2, MDP‑RC20, MDP‑RS10, MDP‑U10, MDP‑U3, MDP‑U30, MDP‑U300P, MDP‑U330P, MDP‑RS1, MDP‑V1, MDP‑V10, MDP‑V7, MDP‑V70G, MDP‑V70K, MDP‑V8K, MDP‑V900G, MDP‑V90K, MDP‑V9K, VIW-3020 (controller), VIW‑5000 (controller),

Sylvania (1): VP‑7200,

Tandy Realistic (1): MD‑1000,

Teac (24): LV‑1000, LV‑1200, LV‑1400, LV‑1500DS, LV‑1700DS, LV‑2000, LV‑2200K, LV‑2300, LV‑2400, LV‑2500, LV‑2600, LV‑3000V, LV‑3300K, LV‑3500KC, LV‑5000, LV‑5000DS, LV‑5000W, LV‑5500DS, LV‑5700DS, LV‑6000W, LV‑7000, LV‑7000V, LV‑8000V, LV‑9000,

Technics (1): LX‑1000,

Teknika Electronics (1): HA VD10,

Telefunken (2): VDP 500, VDP 800,

Theta (4): Data universal transport, Data II universal transport, Data III universal transport, Voyager,

Toshiba (13): XR‑K65, XR‑L10D, XR‑L800, XR‑L8D, XR‑LK30, XR‑LK44, XR‑LK55, XR‑LK70G, XR‑W70(A), XR‑W70(M), XR‑W75, XR‑W90, XR‑W90A,

Wurlitzer (1): Lasergraph (autochanger),

Yamaha (18): CDV‑100, CDV‑1000 (J), CDV‑1000 (U), CDV‑1100, CDV‑1200K, CDV‑1600, CDV‑1700, CDV‑300K, CDV‑870, CDV‑M777 (CDV-player), CDV‑S100 (CDV-player), CDV‑W701K, CDV‑W901, CLV‑1, CLV‑M88, LV‑1000D, LV‑X1, LV‑X1 DIGITAL,

Zenith (1): LDP‑510,
The large 30cm and 20cm laserdiscs in NTSC or PAL I call just "Laserdisc" (LD) independent of whether they were called "DiscoVision", "LaserVision", "VLP", "CDV", or "Laserdisc" by the manufacturer. "LDS" = 20cm LD-Single, "CDS" = 8cm CD-Single. I use the name "CDV" only for 12cm CDV, aka "CDV-Single", and for VSD.
(system) refers to "complete" laserdisc systems that comprise at least a LD player, amps and speakers. I am sure that I have not yet marked all of them.
(autochanger) refers to a player that can hold several laserdiscs, and can be ordered to pick any one of them to play it back.
(commander) refers to a device that does not play back LDs by itself, but is used to control one or several autochanger LD player units.
(recorder) refers to a device that is used for recording a video onto a videodisc. Some recorders have built-in video processors, some use standalone processors. Only RLV recorders can produce a disc that is playable in a normal laserdisc player.
(processor) refers to a device that does not play back LDs by itself, but is required to be used with a videodisc recorder when recording.
(MUSE) refers to players that can play MUSE Hi-Vision Laserdiscs. Many of these players can play back also NTSC laserdiscs.
(CDV-player) means that it can play back only 12cm CDV, VSD, CD, and 8cm CD-Single. It cannot play back the large Laserdiscs.

(HDVS Videodisc recorders use one-time recordable videodiscs in a plastic caddy. HDVS Videodisc players use the same or prerecorded pressed discs, but without a caddy. HDVS Videodiscs do not use MUSE compression - the player output signal can be directly plugged into a HD TV set. NOT compatible with Laserdiscs and NOT compatible with Hi-Vision LDs.)

Sony (2): HDL-2000, HDL-5800 (recorder),

(The "Color Videodisc" was a result of a co-development of Teac and Sumitomo Chemical. The recorders are labeled "TEAC Laser Videodisc Recorder". These discs are similar to RLV discs as they are also 1x writeable and can store up to 54000 frames resp. 30 minutes of video on one side (NTSC, CAV), there are single-sided and double-sided discs. However they can be written only in the Teac recorders of the LV-200 series - and unlike RLV they also can only be played back in the recorders and players of the Teac LV-200 series! NEITHER the discs NOR the players are compatible with Laserdisc.
NB: since I have not yet found a picture of a real "Color Videodisc", I am not sure whether they were labeled as such or used a different name.)

Teac (5): LV-200A (recorder), LV-210A (recorder), LV-210P, LV-220P, LV-250HC (recorder),

(CRVdisc are 30cm one-time writeable discs sealed in a plastic caddy, the recorders themselves are labeled "Sony Laser Videodisc recorder". NOT compatible with Laserdisc.)

Sony (15): LVA-3500, LVA-3700P, LVA-4700P, LVA-8000P, LVR-3000N (recorder), LVR-4000P (recorder), LVR-5000 (recorder), LVR-5000A (recorder), LVR-6000 (recorder), LVR-6000A (recorder), LVS-4000A (processor for LVR-5000), LVS-5000 (processor for LVR-5000), LVS-5000A (processor for LVR-5000A), LVS-6000AP (processor for LVR-6000A), LVS-6000P (processor for LVR-6000),

(LaserRecorders use a 1000000 times rewriteable blank LaserRecorder Videodisc, sealed in a plastic caddy. NOT compatible with Laserdisc.)

Pioneer (2): VDR-V1000 NTSC (recorder), VDR-V1000 PAL (recorder),

(LaserFilm videodiscs 1984-1986 are 30cm discs out of thin photographic film in a plastic caddy. Master discs are transparent with black dots, replicas are black with transparent dots. The player can playback both types. NOT compatible with Laserdisc.)

McDonnell Douglas (1): LFS-4400,

(Optical Memory Discs 1987-? are mostly 20cm discs. The recorders are labeled "National Optical Disc Recorder". OMD were introduced into the market 1987 and used mostly as storage medium for medical picture and video material. NOT compatible with Laserdisc.)

National/Panasonic (2): ODR TQ-2600F (recorder), ODR TQ-2700F (recorder),

----- NOT LISTED HERE: TED 1975-1977, CED 1981-1986, VHD 1983-1988 are needle-read videodisc systems without any laser. (NOT compatible with Laserdisc.)

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Posted: 17 Dec 2017, 08:35 

As I mentioned before, the Pioneer LD-V4300D is the reference player for the Domesday Duplicator board. I currently have 3 of these players and I'm busy restoring and repairing them to get them in the best condition possible. Along the way I'm trying to produce comprehensive documentation about the player and how to modify and restore it. I will make an electrical calibration guide shortly (I am still waiting for the Pioneer test disc). In the meantime, the following guides are available:

Overview of the Pioneer LD-V4300D (includes serial cable pin-out):
Pioneer LD-V4300D Tear-down and clean:
Pioneer LD-V4300D – Adding an RF output:

Even if you have no intention of using the duplicator, the tear-down and clean guide is a good way to extend the service life of the player.

The overview guide also includes a PDF of the user manual (which I was unable to find online, so I made a copy myself) - it includes a guide to the serial control commands, so it's quite useful.

If anyone spots any errors or the like, please let me know!

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Posted: 26 Dec 2017, 11:10 

Short answer: It's digital, plug in the DA-1

Long answer:
The player band-passes the modulated RF signal to separate the digital audio part of the RF signal from the rest of the RF and then outputs it to the EFM port (the AUDB module in the player handles this - service manual page 25 of the PDF).

The AUDB module also decodes the digital signal and outputs the status of the L and R digital audio channels on the EFM connector too (pins 3 and 4).

So you have:

Pin 1: High if the disc is PAL and low if NTSC
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: Audio L status (high if on and low if off)
Pin 4: EFM (this is the actual 'digital' signal)
Pin 5: Audio R status

Interestingly the EFM isn't really a digital signal; it's band-passed RF. This still requires some form of demodulation to get the data back followed by a DAC to get back the analogue sound; which is most probably what your DA-1 is for. In the player IC306 demodulates the RF (the "EFM decoder IC") and then IC308 acts as the DAC).

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 Post subject: Re: Searching for a 2144
Posted: 03 Oct 2018, 18:26 

I think you should contact Jim directly and negotiate the price and shipping. I believe the shipping cost is just an estimate. I am not financially afliated with Lumagen, I have no influence or cut in the price. I just do my best to help people. Mention that you got his contact and this information from me. I will also tell him that you will be contacting him. He is very friendly and reasonable. My name is Mahir. His email is Let me know how it works out.

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Posted: 25 Oct 2018, 03:13 

Hi mimy,

To get the best fit of the incoming image to the screen you should use the 'Crop TopLeft' and 'Crop BotRight' controls.

I only use the 'Vert Shift" to shift the image with scope material (2.35:1, 2.2:1 etc) to the bottom of 16:9 projector screen. This just works better for me as the screen is relatively high and the image is in a better position for viewing and in relation to the front speakers that way. It just looks better too having a single wider blank bar at the top rather than narrower ones top and bottom, in which case I find the bottom one distracting when viewing. It looks better too having the image framed by the screens black borders on the bottom as well as the sides (I'm not fancy enough to have a screen with blanking panels!)

This also has the added bonus of screening out the Japanese subtitles (which I don't need) on those discs.

If the Crop settings are correct I'm not sure why you'd even want/need to shift the image horizontally.

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Posted: 25 Oct 2018, 19:53 

My output setting are setted on 1.78 (16/9).
I have a perfect ratio for DVD and bluray sources.
But for LD, I need each time to change output ratio to get a non-deformed image, even in 4/3 mode.
Did I mess some setting in input menu ?

It has issues lol.

Take Toy Story or another disc you know to be 1.78 then with 4:3 mode in full zoom use the crop functions to make sure all of the corners are at the corners of your screen then save. I usually have to set the right at 14 or so to make it work but once its done you are set.

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 Post subject: Re: Pioneer HLD-X0 Review
Posted: 18 Dec 2018, 17:03 


important point

HLD-X 0 is sensitive to static electricity

The latest attention is necessary

Static electricity breaks laser diode and demodulation IC

popular Model can withstand up to 3 kv
HLD-X 0 will break at 30 V

Pioneer LD-1000(1981)
Pioneer LD-S1(1986)
Pioneer HLD-X0(1995)

FOR.A FA-395
(Time base collector/
Frame Synchronizer)


Panasonic TH-32LX75S(LCD)

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Posted: 29 Dec 2018, 10:46 

I have a kuro plasma since 2008 (last model build, european version), and there are no burn ins.
You'll have to check used screen with caution.
Also check for red tint problem and bad pixels.
Some people also complain about noise made by plasma when switched on.
Check if you are fine with it in a quiet environment.

Yes I think it's a disadvantage that you are maxed out @ 1080p in this day and age.
Maybe 4k screen better in the long term, if new screens have quality to last a long time.
But it seems everything is trying to be as cheap as possible and obsolescent quickly.
Good luck finding a new screen!

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Posted: 30 Dec 2018, 06:50 

The way electronics are now I feel they don't last as long.

Only option I can offer is the cheaper one if it dies fast or if you get the more expensive of the ones you are looking at look into getting it fixed.

Sony has always been an issue, but you could possibly look into a part to replace??? Sometimes this is an easy fix for a board or something on newer sets.

I don't want to try to repare it for now, because if I loose my screen, I will have nothing for the next months to see movies...^^
After buying a new one I will try to fix it myself. For now Sony told me it could cost between 25000 yens and 80000 yens to repare it. Then I prefer buy a new screen.

Thank you everyone for your advices !
- I will wait for 6 month for gather money.
- If, during these 6 month I can find a very good condition Kuro for less than 100.000 yens, and if I can check it myself (not on internet), I will take it.
- else, I will take a new screen. I will search about Panasonic also, thank you nissling. Substance, if you says that OLED is not a good idea for dithering, LCD would be better ? I am also concerned about burning on OLED, because hald of my movies are in 4/3 size...

Oleds aren’t true 10 bit displays. To make the illusion they do dithering and other tricks. Some do it better some do worse. On modern material like bluray, 4k etc. it’s unnoticeable. On old stuff, it’s possible only I see it. I have yet to see anyone who is more critical than me on video.

Pros are way too many. Save up your money and get an Oled. You can fix dithering with Lumagen(and many other things).

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Posted: 07 Jan 2019, 17:56 

I don't want to hijack the other post so figured I would document and share my information here.

I got this for bid of $10.77 on Yahoo with a typical vague description of the issues. First thing I had to do was change the belt as the tray was stuck causing the unit to power itself off, as stated in the other post this is pain (front panel has to come off to get the gear which you spin to pop the tray), though this is a bit of a pain it is easier than reaching under the tray on some Pioneer's as once you get access to the gears they pop the tray quickly and easily (gears much larger than typical Pioneer).

Once the belt was swapped (this is larger than 3.6, I am guessing 3.8 or 4.0) the loading process was completing and it was able to accept a disc but would not spin. I was able to get it into test mode following the instructions from the other post (this one responds to my standard Panasonic LD remote) and verify that the disc could spin (thus spindle motor is ok).

Next step was to swap the pickup (I purchased a NOS pickup from Germany), to do this you have to remove (2) screws on the pickup and pull it straight up and out then transfer the rollers from the right side of the old pickup to the new pickup and reinstall (actually probably a little easier than a typical Pioneer). Once I swapped the pickup I was in business and discs started to read.

The next (and most difficult) problem to overcome was alignment of the new laser pickup, discs would play for a few minutes and then stop completely and chapter / time searches did not work reliably. Again as stated in the other post there is a special harness required to even access the scope test points (which no one has and if I did I don't have the Muse test disc anyway) so I had to wing it through trial and error / listening to the laser work and testing different adjustments until laser sounded healthy, loaded quickly and easily, CAV and CLV discs played clean start to finish, and chapter / time searching worked 100% (this took me probably 5-6 hours total, probably could be done in 30 min with proper jig and test disc). I concur with information from other post, Muse alignment is first then NTSC follows. I am not recommending anyone do a full and complete alignment like this without a scope but in this case there really is no other option, its either sit there and stare at a non working player or dig in and wing it.

One note for pickup replacement - if ribbon cable is not properly routed it will rub on the disc and block the laser from flipping to side b (I am quite lucky my mistake here didn't cost me the ribbon cable).

I can now report she is working 100% perfectly with both Muse and NTSC, if you want to hear me ramble in audio form check out this video -

Sources -

Service Manual - (in English from the never released HIL-C3)
NOS Laser - (they report one left in stock)
Excellent info from publius -
Random blog with good info -

Initial impressions of player -
Good build quality, laser runs on a belt similar to Panasonic's, no small plastic gears / MHolders to break.
Muse playback with my Sony decoder is miles above X9 + Sony decoder (we are attributing this to better matching of player / decoder combo).
NTSC playback is impressive, a bit noisy but very good if I use my C2 to tame the noise just a bit.

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 Post subject: Re: Best quality Laserdiscs
Posted: 04 Feb 2019, 04:50 

Macross Do You Remember Love.

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Posted: 13 Mar 2019, 09:43 

Smaller values favores video mode deinterlacing and larger values favores film mode deinterlacing.

You need to understand, film material is already progressive full frames later to be interlaced into two fields (even and odd lines) due to the limitations of NTSC. In film mode, deinterlacier finds the matching fields and combines them. It’s a simple operation but cadence needs to be picked correctly for it to work. Technically all film footage should be 3:2 cadence but anamollies exists between edits and film/video mixed footage (tv series, anime, etc)

Video is shot on video cameras which capture images in fields. There are no two matching fields to combine. Deinterlacer double these fields to make up a full frame using interpolation. Basically assumes the missing lines.

I mentioned cadence detection above. When the deinterlacer can’t pick the cadence, it uses video mode (interpolation) even on film material. Typically most deinterlacers will look for 3:2 cadence and if it’s not 3:2, it will apply interpolation to double those fields. Yoi favor video mode in this setting and radiance will revert to video mode more often. This often yields softer picture because you only have half the resolution (one field) to scale up to full resolution. Less combing because interpolation smooths out the jaggies.

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 Post subject: Re: How about a Discord ?
Posted: 21 Mar 2019, 20:08 

I understand. Again this is just me but I only have so much time to contribute so anything I put somewhere means it’s something I’m not putting somewhere else. I quit Twitter on election eve ‘16 and Facebook after the midterms and I’m getting SO much more stuff done.

Ideally what I would like to see is more forum traffic and thats something that’s hard to achieve with FB out there. Here like three people will worship photos of your collection but on LD Forever you’ll get a hundred Likes which will make your brain think that’s a better place of discussion when in fact it’s mostly a cesspool filled with horribly lit photos of crap LDs and transparent compliment fishing. The gratification must be INSTANT and therefore they don’t have time to even take a decent photo let alone write something worth reading.

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 Post subject: Re: Exotica : real size ?
Posted: 28 Mar 2019, 15:56 

Do you mean that 1.78:1 is always matted ? If a movie is in 1.78:1 then the original version were in 1.85:1 ?
Well it is possible that some productions specifically shot for HDTV probably are actually supposed to be in 1.78:1, but yes, 1.85:1 is meant to be the correct AR.

Even when the movie was shot in open matte (ie. 4x3), a version matted to 1.78:1 is technically incorrect, even if it does show a marginal amount of additional image compared to 1.85:1.

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Posted: 16 Jul 2019, 11:13 

Mine has the side obi for Hotaru no Haka (Grave of the Fireflies) (1988) [SF098-1540]

Google (images) with "SF098-1540" to find it.

Both CLV and CAV have a side obi.

Hotaru no Haka (Grave of the Fireflies) (1988) [SF050-1508]
Hotaru no Haka (Grave of the Fireflies) (1988) [SF098-1540]


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Posted: 15 Feb 2020, 23:24 

I'm against all restoration of anything unless it's unwatchable. Laserdisc is what it is.

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Posted: 20 Jun 2020, 16:39 

Go lower gauge. Shielding less important on speaker cables.

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Posted: 20 Jun 2020, 17:13 

I posted a website I found years ago about what wires to use.

If you have time to read you will find out a lot of great info.

I bought a really thick copper wire from the hardware store, very thick and works great.

I think at the time copper was high after the crash in 2009 and I paid around .50 cents a foot.
Look into it. I got some shrink tubing to make the red on one side so I know when I connect the speakers.

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Posted: 26 Jun 2020, 15:58 

I bought the thick cable and I will install it today !

One more question : my last cable became green because of oxydation in 2 or 3 yearts only...
Should I use banana plugs to avoid that ? Or is it useless ? If it s better, any banana plug will work well, or should I buy specific ones ?

You can use banana plugs. They won’t degrade sound. They will delay oxidation significantly.
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