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 Post subject: Re: DTS stereo?
Posted: 25 Aug 2016, 20:30 

New Line used DTS exclusively on "The Mask." DTS offered a "Dolby Surround" compatible 4:2:4 soundtrack on the feature prints, called DTS Stereo. Since using "Dolby Surround" or "Dolby Stereo" would require the payment of royalties, the DTS stereo option was covered by the royalties already paid for DTS 6-Track.

That same 4:2:4 track is what all 2.0 channel stereo programs for "The Mask" used. No Dolby royalties on the video if they don't say "Dolby" on the jacket, and provided they didn't use a dolby encoder when making the 4:2:4 track.

For the Dolby Digital LD, the PCM track is still the DTS Stereo mix. On the DTS LD, the Analog tracks are DTS Stereo (incorrectly listed here on LDDB as Dolby Surround).

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Posted: 26 Oct 2017, 23:39 

I've got 2 DVL-919E players that show 220-240V. I have had ZERO problems plugging them straight into a 110v outlet in the US. If there was an issue, all of the DV* series LD players are the same basic design and you could simply pull the 120V board out of a US player and load it into the 220V player.

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 Post subject: Re: DTS Collection Complete
Posted: 04 Dec 2017, 20:25 

I completed my DTS collection back in January (worldwide) - the last holdouts were "Schlafes Bruder" from Germany and the test pressing of "Jurassic Park".

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 Post subject: Re: DTS Collection Complete
Posted: 06 Dec 2017, 19:00 

There are a handful of stand-alone DTS decoders:
McIntosh MSD4
Parasound P/DD-1550
Millennium 2.4.6

The Millennium does ONLY DTS. The McIntosh and Parasound units do DD and DTS.

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Posted: 04 Jan 2018, 19:29 

Several years ago, I made my own version of this by stacking two LX-1000s together, both attached to a signal sensing DVDO unit, with the DVDO also carrying the audio. Then the DVDO was connected to the TV set and amp via one set of cables. To get it to work properly, I'd load the two discs, usually a title with side 3, sometimes 3 and 4, then turn off player two, and start player one.

The disc would play through sides 1 and 2 with all functions available. When it was done, I simply hit the power button on the remote. Player one shut off and player two turned on at the same time, and the DVDO switched over to player two in a flash automatically, so the title would continue. Of course, this only works well if you have two players that are basically the same with the same quality output, and a unit that will automatically switch the A/V signal to a single output.
Some of the industrial models have control setups to allow ganging them together. For example, if you have serial control on a couple of LD-V8000s, you can assign each one a unique ID, & send strings of commands to each one telling it what to do. And they can be slaved to a master sync source, so if you also have a serial-control switcher, you can cut from one to another without a single frame's delay.

Several of the Karaoke players have a feature called "Relay Play" where the player will trigger the next one to start. Some even have A/V inputs so you only need to output one signal to the monitor. I've not actually seen one in action.

On the original topic, I know the LD-W1 was issued in the US and Japan, but I've heard there is an Industrial model that is white. I have never seen a picture, or even know what the model number is.

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Posted: 16 Jan 2018, 23:16 

Yeah, side changes are substantially worse on the W1 than any other player by a mile. It depends on what side you are on and where you are headed but I think Side 2 to Side 3 is the slowest.

Mine recently broke (!) and I haven’t had time to look inside.

Yes, the 2-3 side break is the longest. When I'm playing a 3-sided title, I put the second disc with side 4 up and then tell it to play ABD. This leaves the player mechanism upside down cutting down on the time to flip it back over for side 3.

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Posted: 17 Jan 2018, 19:17 

My DVL 909 developed a weird problem. Every several seconds a white dot races through the screen. I know it's not laser rot. It can happen in pretty much every part of the screen.

Anyone experienced this and knows what it is ?

I picked up a DVL-919 from Japan and it had this issue. I replaced every board and the LaserDisc pickup to no effect. I ended up replacing the spindle motor and platform from an DVL-919 from Hong Kong and the problem went away. I am pretty sure it was the platform assembly itself and not the spindle motor.

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Posted: 12 Feb 2018, 17:49 

You've got a couple of issues. The rubber clamp has turned to goo, as you have found out. You'll have to get a new one. However, the bigger issue is your carriage wire. If you tilt the player side to side and the carriage moves freely, the carriage wire has either broken or come off the carriage motor. If it's broken, it will have to be replaced. If it's simply come off the pulley, re-threading it is a bit tricky. It's two wraps on the motor if memory serves. But you must be careful, because if you wrap the wire on the motor incorrectly, the spindle will move backward of the intended direction. (I learned that the hard way). You can't get the carriage wire new any more, so you'll have to find a broken player somewhere that has a wire intact.

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Posted: 05 Mar 2018, 21:30 

Dead Poets Society (1989) (Uncut) [7821 AS] has a 144 minute cut on LD where all other versions are the theatrical cut of 129 minutes. There are also 2 editions of "Outrageous Fortune", one which gives top billing to Shelly Long and the other to Bette Midler . The only differences are the jackets, and opening/closing credits. All DVD editions are the "Bette Midler" version.

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 Post subject: Re: AC-3 Capable LD Players
Posted: 01 May 2018, 18:12 

This is, by no means, a definitive list but this is what I've compiled in my research of players.

Denon LA-200
Denon LA-2300
Denon LA-2300A
Denon LA-2700
Denon LA-3300
Denon LA-3300G
Denon LA-3500
Denon LA-V200G
Kenwood LD-K300V
Kenwood LVD-290
Kenwood LVD-490V
Kenwood LVD-590V
Kenwood LVD-K590V
Marantz LV-520
Mitsubishi M-V6027
Mitsubishi M-V7057
Onkyo DX-V350
Onkyo DX-V370
Onkyo DX-V500
Panasonic LX-H680U
Panasonic LX-V820EN
Panasonic LX-V830EN
Panasonic LX-V850EN
Panasonic LX-V860EN
Panasonic LX-V870EN
Panasonic LX-V880EN
Pioneer CLD-110KVT
Pioneer CLD-210KVT
Pioneer CLD-2760K
Pioneer CLD-3760KV
Pioneer CLD-59
Pioneer CLD-79
Pioneer CLD-99
Pioneer CLD-D390
Pioneer CLD-D3V
Pioneer CLD-D406
Pioneer CLD-D500
Pioneer CLD-D504
Pioneer CLD-D505
Pioneer CLD-D515 (1)
Pioneer CLD-D580
Pioneer CLD-D590
Pioneer CLD-D5V
Pioneer CLD-D604
Pioneer CLD-D605
Pioneer CLD-D606
Pioneer CLD-D700
Pioneer CLD-D704
Pioneer CLD-D780
Pioneer CLD-D790
Pioneer CLD-D925
Pioneer CLD-D99
Pioneer CLD-HF7G
Pioneer CLD-HF9G
Pioneer CLD-K8V
Pioneer CLD-R4
Pioneer CLD-R5
Pioneer CLD-R6G
Pioneer CLD-R7G
Pioneer CLD-S105
Pioneer CLD-S290
Pioneer CLD-S300V
Pioneer CLD-S304
Pioneer CLD-S315 (1)
Pioneer CLD-S500VT
Pioneer CLD-V870
Pioneer CLD-V880
Pioneer DVL-700
Pioneer DVL-9
Pioneer DVL-90
Pioneer DVL-909
Pioneer DVL-91
Pioneer DVL-919
Pioneer DVL-919E
Pioneer DVL-DVK1000
Pioneer DVL-DVK900
Pioneer DVL-H9
Pioneer DVL-K88
Pioneer DVL-V888
Pioneer HLD-X0
Pioneer HLD-X9
Pioneer LD-S9
ProScan PSLD46
RCA LDR611
Sony MDP-V1
Sony MDP-V10
Sony MDP-V7
Sony MDP-V70K
Sony MDP-V7K
Sony MDP-V90K
Sony MDP-V9K
Yamaha CDV-W901

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 Post subject: Re: CX encoding
Posted: 23 Jul 2018, 22:57 

There is a difference between 2.0 Mono and 1.0 Mono. LaserDisc, either digital or analog, are going to be 2.0 mono, the same program on Left and Right channels. Usually, this is the way Blu-ray titles are also done, 2.0 mono. Now, Warner Bros is the exception where they actually encode their titles as 1.0, which will always be "center" channel. It makes me nuts!

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 Post subject: Re: The Matrix LD vs DVD
Posted: 30 Jul 2018, 15:47 

If you go back to my original entry on this tread, I've included my 1999 screen grab of the LD v DVD image.

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Posted: 25 Sep 2018, 17:51 

This is a 7 pin connector on the DVDM board CN106 and is listed as RS232C, so it "should" comply with standard serial protocols and voltages. It's on the edge of the board between the two cables that go down to the CLDM board.

1 - NC
2 - GND
3 - +5v
4 - CTS
5 - DTR
6 - RXD
7 - TXD

One of my 919E boards has a little fob in this port that makes it region free. If I remove the fob, the player reverts to its original region coding.

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Posted: 26 Oct 2018, 20:29 

Max Headroom (RCA - First Season (6 episodes))
Lucas (Fox)
Night Crossing (Disney)
Song of the South (Disney)

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Posted: 16 Nov 2018, 00:55 

To my knowledge, the "Closed Captions" standard was only adopted in NTSC. They are available in the US and Japan (but I've never seen Japanese captions). There are a few TeleText discs issued in UK, it looks like less than 100.

https://www.lddb.com/search.php?adv_search=*&caption=5

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Posted: 03 Dec 2018, 20:34 

The bottom line is each seller sets their own shop policies.

Shipping costs are what they are. Unless you have a seller that is a total douche, marking up the shipping costs OVER what it costs to actually pack and ship something, there really is no getting around these fees. Boxes aren't free, packing peanuts are not free, bubble wrap isn't free, driving to the post office isn't free, online postage (like Stamps.com) isn't free. Some (like me) will reuse boxes and packing if they are still in good condition and I don't charge more than a couple $$ for "handling".

Merchants always pay a fee for credit card processing and it used to be against the policies by the credit card companies to charge the buyer for those fees. PayPal is no different. It's cool they offer a "free" way to do it (if sourcing from a bank account), but I've always viewed these things as the cost of business.

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Posted: 13 Feb 2019, 20:57 

I will buy physical media until they stop making it. I don't stream anything that I can get on media. I didn't watch Daredevil on Netflix until it came out on BD. Don't know why other than I'm old school. But I can say with 100% certainty, you will have to peel my physical media collection out of my cold dead hands.

LD: 5,912
DVD: 714
HDDVD: 3
BD: 1,204
UMD: 2
CED: 30
VHD: 18
CDV: 34
VSD: 6
CD: 1,918
DD: 12
BDA: 5
DVDA: 18
SACD: 19
MD: 1
DCC: 1
12": 212
7": 188
Cass: 34
R2R: 472

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 Post subject: My 59th LaserDisc player
Posted: 14 Mar 2019, 21:00 

Nothing to see here. Move along.

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Posted: 10 Apr 2019, 19:41 

It’s hard to say if the noise is normal without knowing your experience level. The spinning up/down of the disc in CLV is noisey on all but the most high end players and if you switch chapters a lot making the discs spin up and down a lot you will hear more noise. Ah I should have made it clearer that I do also own a DVL-919 which, although it has other problems, does play LDs, and when skipping forward and backwards it just makes the normal gentle whirring and swooshing that you'd expect - so there's definitely something not quite right with my DVL-909.

I'm thinking it could be either that the motor is not fully secured to the player (haven't investigated that yet) - although that seems unlikely, as it would cause playback problems I imagine, or, more likely, the bearing of the motor itself starting to wear after too much spinning over the years...

I had a DVL-909 that did this as well. I ended up replacing the spindle motor and the problem went away. I had a CLD-D505 that also did this and replacing the motor fixed that one too (both players use the same spindle motor).

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 Post subject: Re: [CLD-M450] Disassembly
Posted: 16 Apr 2019, 18:10 

When I was building my M90, I had issues with the tray as well. The tray is so large and flexible, I found it was getting hung up on the transformer when trying to lift. Putting a slight bend in the metal bar that holds the two sides of the tray together around the transformer resolved the transformer hanging, but I did end up replacing the belt too. I used the standard VEB1184 SQB3.6 belt and that cleared up the rest of my problems.

By far the biggest issue I had was getting the tray properly synchronized. Having the tray be off by even one tooth would throw the timing completely off.

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Posted: 22 Apr 2019, 05:24 

As long as you don't try to move the turntable on the spindle motor, you won't have any issue with adjustments regarding changing the motor. If you are feeling brave, here are the steps to disassemble the player to get to the motor.

1. Turn on the player. Press the LD Eject button. Then unplug the player from the wall so the tray does not close.
2. Remove the bonnet.
3. Along the back edge of the tray are two locking clips. Push them both in at the same time and pull the tray from the front of the player.
4. Remove the 4 screws on the back of the player that hold the turn mechanism cover.
5. Unplug the 7 cables from the DVDM board and then remove the 4 screws that hold the board and remove the board.
6. Remove the grounding wire between the frame and the player mechanism.
7. Remove the 4 screws that hold the clamp assembly to the frame. It's easiest if you take out the screws at the back panel and front panel and lift the two cross bars and the upper clamp assembly as one piece.
8. Take out the three screws that hold the front panel. Lift up the tabs slightly and rock the front panel down. The connecting cable between the front panel and the DVDM board should have already been removed. There is also a grounding wire on the right side of the player. Remove the screw holding it down.
9. On the player mechanism, there are 2 heavy springs, one on each side at the back of the player. Unhook the spring from the top of the frame and hook it on the player mechanism (there is a convenient hook on each side of the mechanism to hold the spring while doing the work. Isn’t Pioneer nice?)
10. Disconnect the Green/White cable on the power supply. This is the motor lead.
11. Disconnect the wide LD Pickup flex cable at the back of the player. Removing the tray hold may make this easier. Pay close attention to how the pickup cables route through the hook on the side of the tray holder.
12. Disconnect the narrow white cable just forward from the LD Pickup connector. This is the Pickup Rotation connector.
13. At the front of the board, there are two white cables that attach close together. You want to disconnect the one perpendicular to the mechanism (second connector from the left). This is the loading motor connection (among other things).
14. Use a long thin phillips head screwdriver to remove the recessed screws on the black plastic player mechanism. A magnetic tip screwdriver is best. These screws are extra long screws and should be kept from the others so as to not mix them up. There are a total of 4, one in each corner of the black plastic mechanism.
15. At the back of the mechanism are two hold down clamps. They hook around the mechanism and hold down the assembly. Remove one screw from each and lift both out.
16. At this point, the mechanism should be free. Carefully lift it up and insure all connections are free. It is easiest to push the mechanism further back into the player so the tray roller clears the front of the player. Lift the front of the mechanism out first, then bring the entire assembly out.
17. At the front of the motor is the rotation speed sensor. Slide it over to the left to move it out of the way.
18. On the bottom, make note of the routing of the green/white motor wires and the orientation of where the wires come out of the motor.
19. Remove the three screws holding the motor.
20. The motor will come out of the bottom. You’ll have to tilt it around to get the turntable through the access hole.
21. Reverse the entire process with the replacement motor.

22. When putting the tray back in, be sure to get it in square. It is very easy to get the tray off one tooth on either side, and if off, it will not close all the way. I usually put it in with the power on.

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Posted: 26 Apr 2019, 19:15 

The pickup rides on a gear that must engage with the track underneath. I've seen issues where the pickup can't move (or won't) so it makes this noise.

What the player is doing at this point is moving the pickup to it's inner most spot and then backing it off. The position of the pickup is essentially what "tells" the player which tray to open. If the pickup is up against the motor, the CD tray opens. If it back away from the motor, it opens the LD tray.

The track is spring loaded, so if the pickup can't move, you'll get this grinding noise. Try manually moving the pickup toward the spindle motor. If you can move it, pull it all the way to the spindle motor and then back it off to about midway in the track. If that works the tray should open. If it doesn't move easily, the rail lube has probably gummed up and will need to be cleaned and re-lubed. If the pickup moves easily, but the grinding still occurs, the springs under the track may be missing which pushes the track up to engage with the motor.

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Posted: 29 Apr 2019, 19:35 

There is absolutely NO difference between LaserDisc and DiscoVision. ZERO. The formats both are reading the pits and lands variances to create an RF carrier on which everything is based. There is nothing in either formation regarding degrees of opacity.

Now, there were efforts to have a pass-through disc (I believe the MD Laserfilm system was pass-through), but none that were commercially available.

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Posted: 13 May 2019, 05:06 

I find these interesting only in what he uncovers. Any exposition on his part are the ramblings of the unlearned.

ANYONE with any knowledge of DiscoVision understands the playback issues of early GM titles (GM150 in this case - Chevrolet 1980 Medium Duty Trucks). and we all should recognize "Day of the Jackal" one of only 3 6-sided titles issued.

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Posted: 20 May 2019, 05:34 

Based on pics that I've found, it looks like a clone of the Panasonic LX-K780.
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