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| blam1 |
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Posted: 22 Apr 2019, 05:24
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As long as you don't try to move the turntable on the spindle motor, you won't have any issue with adjustments regarding changing the motor. If you are feeling brave, here are the steps to disassemble the player to get to the motor.
1. Turn on the player. Press the LD Eject button. Then unplug the player from the wall so the tray does not close.
2. Remove the bonnet.
3. Along the back edge of the tray are two locking clips. Push them both in at the same time and pull the tray from the front of the player.
4. Remove the 4 screws on the back of the player that hold the turn mechanism cover.
5. Unplug the 7 cables from the DVDM board and then remove the 4 screws that hold the board and remove the board.
6. Remove the grounding wire between the frame and the player mechanism.
7. Remove the 4 screws that hold the clamp assembly to the frame. It's easiest if you take out the screws at the back panel and front panel and lift the two cross bars and the upper clamp assembly as one piece.
8. Take out the three screws that hold the front panel. Lift up the tabs slightly and rock the front panel down. The connecting cable between the front panel and the DVDM board should have already been removed. There is also a grounding wire on the right side of the player. Remove the screw holding it down.
9. On the player mechanism, there are 2 heavy springs, one on each side at the back of the player. Unhook the spring from the top of the frame and hook it on the player mechanism (there is a convenient hook on each side of the mechanism to hold the spring while doing the work. Isn’t Pioneer nice?)
10. Disconnect the Green/White cable on the power supply. This is the motor lead.
11. Disconnect the wide LD Pickup flex cable at the back of the player. Removing the tray hold may make this easier. Pay close attention to how the pickup cables route through the hook on the side of the tray holder.
12. Disconnect the narrow white cable just forward from the LD Pickup connector. This is the Pickup Rotation connector.
13. At the front of the board, there are two white cables that attach close together. You want to disconnect the one perpendicular to the mechanism (second connector from the left). This is the loading motor connection (among other things).
14. Use a long thin phillips head screwdriver to remove the recessed screws on the black plastic player mechanism. A magnetic tip screwdriver is best. These screws are extra long screws and should be kept from the others so as to not mix them up. There are a total of 4, one in each corner of the black plastic mechanism.
15. At the back of the mechanism are two hold down clamps. They hook around the mechanism and hold down the assembly. Remove one screw from each and lift both out.
16. At this point, the mechanism should be free. Carefully lift it up and insure all connections are free. It is easiest to push the mechanism further back into the player so the tray roller clears the front of the player. Lift the front of the mechanism out first, then bring the entire assembly out.
17. At the front of the motor is the rotation speed sensor. Slide it over to the left to move it out of the way.
18. On the bottom, make note of the routing of the green/white motor wires and the orientation of where the wires come out of the motor.
19. Remove the three screws holding the motor.
20. The motor will come out of the bottom. You’ll have to tilt it around to get the turntable through the access hole.
21. Reverse the entire process with the replacement motor.
22. When putting the tray back in, be sure to get it in square. It is very easy to get the tray off one tooth on either side, and if off, it will not close all the way. I usually put it in with the power on. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 26 Apr 2019, 19:15
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The pickup rides on a gear that must engage with the track underneath. I've seen issues where the pickup can't move (or won't) so it makes this noise.
What the player is doing at this point is moving the pickup to it's inner most spot and then backing it off. The position of the pickup is essentially what "tells" the player which tray to open. If the pickup is up against the motor, the CD tray opens. If it back away from the motor, it opens the LD tray.
The track is spring loaded, so if the pickup can't move, you'll get this grinding noise. Try manually moving the pickup toward the spindle motor. If you can move it, pull it all the way to the spindle motor and then back it off to about midway in the track. If that works the tray should open. If it doesn't move easily, the rail lube has probably gummed up and will need to be cleaned and re-lubed. If the pickup moves easily, but the grinding still occurs, the springs under the track may be missing which pushes the track up to engage with the motor. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 29 Apr 2019, 19:35
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There is absolutely NO difference between LaserDisc and DiscoVision. ZERO. The formats both are reading the pits and lands variances to create an RF carrier on which everything is based. There is nothing in either formation regarding degrees of opacity.
Now, there were efforts to have a pass-through disc (I believe the MD Laserfilm system was pass-through), but none that were commercially available. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 13 May 2019, 05:06
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I find these interesting only in what he uncovers. Any exposition on his part are the ramblings of the unlearned.
ANYONE with any knowledge of DiscoVision understands the playback issues of early GM titles (GM150 in this case - Chevrolet 1980 Medium Duty Trucks). and we all should recognize "Day of the Jackal" one of only 3 6-sided titles issued. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 20 May 2019, 05:34
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| Based on pics that I've found, it looks like a clone of the Panasonic LX-K780. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 20 May 2019, 19:08
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I'm tracking 57 "brands". All of the "boutique" players are built off transports from one of the major player companies (Philips, Pioneer, Panasonic)
A&D (Akai)
Aiwa
Amfiton
Aurex
BMB
Bodysonic
Carver
Clarion
Columbia
Curtis Mathes (although I have yet to actually see proof of one)
Denon
DiscoVision
Fujitsu
Funai
Genexxa
Giga Networks
Gradiente
Grundig
Halcyon
Hitachi
ITV
Kenwood
Kolibri
Luxman
Löwe
Magnavox
Marantz
Matrox
Mitsubishi
NAD
NEC
Nikkodo (BMB)
Onkyo
Panasonic
Philips
Pioneer
ProScan
Proton
PVCb
Quasar
RCA
Samsung
Sansui
Sanyo
Setron
Sharp
Sony
Sylvania
Talkan
Tandy Realistic
Teac
Teknika
Telefunken
Thomson
Toshiba
Yamaha
Zenith |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 05 Jun 2019, 20:04
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The following Pioneer consumer (non-industrial) players will play Analog and Digital audio on PAL discs:
PAL Only:
CLD-1200
CLD-1400
CLD-1600
CLD-2950
CLD-600
NTSC / PAL:
CLD-1450
CLD-D515
CLD-D925
DVL-919E
The only ones I have direct experience with are the CLD-D925 and DVL-919E, both of which are excellent. The CLD-2950 is a step down, being equivalent to the CLD-D503 in the US. the CLD-2950, D515, D925 and DVL-919E are the only two sided players in this list. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 05 Jun 2019, 20:26
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You should be able to reach the loading mechanism main pulley from the side, on the left side of the player, near the front. If you manually spin, the loading mechanism will move up, down and then open the drawer. Once it starts, you can pull it out the rest of the way, and then release the clips on the trailing edge of the try to take it all the way out.
I think I might actually have a spare flex cable for the pickup in my box of spare parts. The mechanism in the D925 is the same as a bunch of other players, including a D505 which I had to junk. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 02 Jul 2019, 18:53
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If you bypass the latch and beam interlock on the lid, when pushing play you will definitely see a beam spot on the lid (assuming it's partially closed) and you can see the red glow on the lens itself.
Alternatively, you can load a disc, stand the player on the end (the back - see the little legs poking from the back?), take off the bottom and then try playing the disc. If the laser is firing, you will see red reflecting off the disc.
If none of that shows a beam, the laser is gone.
However, you mentioned the disc spins up, which makes me think you are actually getting a beam because the motor won't start until the lens achieves focus. If that is the case, focus will start the disc, but as soon as the player can read the track, it will lock on and the "motor start" current is removed the disc comes up to speed under "player control". If the track can't be read, the "motor start" current is held until a timeout expires and then dropped off, leaving the disc to spin down on its own. If this is the case, it could be a number of things; tracking alignment, tangential alignment, focus alignment (all have "gain" and "bias" adjustments, plus focus has a 3rd setting, "balance"), slider motor failure, seized mirrors (tracking and tangential), bad focus motor.... |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 19 Jul 2019, 19:36
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| The pickup is supposed to stop there and wait for the assembly to adjust down slightly before it slides back under the disc. That action is tied to the rotation of the disc. While the white mat doesn't break down like the rubber ones, it can get filled with crap, so maybe the disc is slipping. Try cleaning it with some isopropyl on a towel. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 21 Jul 2019, 23:13
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| The Centering adjustment is a lateral adjustment which moves the pickup rail left or right. If it is not centered properly, the laser is picking hitting the track off-center. There is a lock screw on the top of the b-side mechanism and on the right, an adjustment which will move the assembly left and right. Loosen the screw and adjust the mechanism slightly either direction while the pickup is trying to read the TOC. Once you find the "sweet spot", tighten the lock screw. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 29 Aug 2019, 17:56
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| This all presents a bit of a pickle. I would have preferred if Pioneer (and the other player makers) had shut down the Digital Output on discs that contained only analog audio. That way Auto-Detecting receivers would properly select soundtracks according to discs. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 29 Aug 2019, 18:07
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| actual subtitles will always work. But if you're trying to read the CC from either a DVD or LD and are passing the signal through something that upscales and sends the signal to the TV through HDMI (like I do), the VBI data is stripped out. You'll notice there are NO Blu-ray discs that have "Closed Captions" and most studios have stopped using them on DVD's too (switching to SDH subtitles instead) |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 25 Sep 2019, 18:30
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The PRC hub is a real pain in the butt. The legs are so brittle you can't reliably pull one off another motor. I've tried numerous times to get one off the turntable with very little luck. You can also try to take the entire turntable off the motor, but that is almost as difficult (and resetting the proper height is a whole other kind of painful).
Ultimately, my best recommendation is to replace the entire motor assembly. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 14 Oct 2019, 20:16
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| This is essentially the same as the "open matte" vs "hard matte" discussion on so many other threads. The original "Lethal Weapon" for example was shown in theaters at 1.85 and the composition on the film was a mix of both. Some scenes are hard matted (b-unit stuff if I recall) and others are open matte. The same is true for "Back to the Future", but in that case, VFX shots were hard matted while most other shots are open matte. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 20 Oct 2019, 21:29
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| If you send me the clamp plate, I can rebuild the assembly for you. Contact me by PM. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 31 Oct 2019, 16:58
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The section on RSS is incorrect. The digital tracks on the disc contain the program code so the only listenable audio is on the analog tracks. I'm basing this on the single LDRom title I have, but I can't imagine any of the others would be different.
The very early Digital Sound players could not select Digital 1/L and 2/R independently. You won't have "4 separate audio" programs until much later. I think Criterion were the only ones to actually do this in supplemental sections. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 03 Nov 2019, 19:07
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I think you're going to find the pinion gear is broken. This typically occurs when the player is shipped without the transit screw.
When you take the bottom off, you'll see a motor assembly on the edge of the slider assembly. Taking off the 4 screws will allow you to lift off the motor assembly. Flip it over and you'll see the gear. Part #62 in this picture.
This gear was used in all Pioneer built top loading players. VP-1000, LD-600, LD-1000, LD-1100, PR-8210, LD-V1000, LD-V1001, Magnavox VC-8010 & Sylvania VP-7200. The only difference was the VP-1000 version was a hollow gear and easily broken. The other players were solid and much more sturdy. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 05 Nov 2019, 21:32
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Yes, the plastic gear under that assembly. That entire assembly should be held on with just a couple of screws. It does not connect to the slider itself. Once the assembly is off, the gear is held on with a C clip.
The gear is in direct contact with the slider assembly and should be spring loaded. Simply trying to spin it won't work. You can pull assembly back from the slider and then see if it rotates smooth and freely. If it wiggles back and forth or doesn't seem round in it's rotation, that is indeed your problem. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 05 Nov 2019, 23:26
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Yup, that's what mine looked like too.
Don't worry about the inside design. I think Pioneer intended the inner portion to provide some amount of buffer, but all it did was break under pressure. Pioneer realized their mistake and filled in the pinion with plastic on future models. As long as the outer diameter and teeth pitch are correct, and the center shaft is the right size, you can 3D print a replacement. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 07 Nov 2019, 22:24
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| It's the little black disc. It has a slit in it and you can just pop it off with a pair of tweezers. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 30 Dec 2019, 21:31
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| These will NOT work on the DVL units. While they will fit the turntable, they are too thick and focus on DVD will fault. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 02 Jan 2020, 20:37
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| This "glue spray" dead side was typical of DiscoVision associates when producing discs with an odd number of sides (1, 3, 5). Very common to see these on titles pressed in the US during 1981. |
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| blam1 |
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Posted: 02 Jan 2020, 20:45
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You're headed in the right direction, but in order for the LaserDisc tray to operate, you need to move the laser pickup out of the way.
What happens if you press the LD eject button with the power on? Obviously you'll here the motor whir like crazy, but the pickup should move about 1/2 way down the track. With it in this position, spin the pulley and the tray should open. |
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Thanks list