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Posted: 14 Jan 2020, 22:26 

Once the laser assembly is all the way up, lower it back down and the full tray should open. This operation resets the "white tab" back to the "Laserdisc" position.

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Posted: 06 Feb 2020, 21:09 

As for which version of "Jaws" to get, the "Signature Collection" versions are the best. There "limited edition" version has the film in CAV and includes a paperback book and CD soundtrack. The standard "Signature Collection" replaces Discs 1 & 2 from the CAV version with a single CLV disc and drops the CD and book.

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Posted: 07 Feb 2020, 23:35 

Thanks everyone!

As for which version of "Jaws" to get, the "Signature Collection" versions are the best. There "limited edition" version has the film in CAV and includes a paperback book and CD soundtrack. The standard "Signature Collection" replaces Discs 1 & 2 from the CAV version with a single CLV disc and drops the CD and book.

Hey, are you the owner of blam1.com website? I was reading an article on Signature Collection releases on there yesterday what a coincidence :lol:
I thought the website is a relic from early 2000 that has just stayed up forgotten by the owner.

Guilty as charged. Back in the day, Universal allowed me to build the site for LaserDisc. I've kept it up, but I did pull down all of the DVD stuff years ago. I keep meaning to add the entirety of the Universal LD catalog, but never seem to find the time.

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Posted: 23 Apr 2020, 20:49 

If you've moved the upper clamp to another DVL player and there are no issues, I'm going to agree the turntable seems to have moved. Can you take a closeup picture of the turntable?

There is a set screw on the turntable that allows you to adjust the height, but it's very hard to adjust.

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Posted: 28 Apr 2020, 20:04 

Here are some factors I thought of with some being more reasonable than others:

[*]Replication at Pioneer USA cost $10.50 (plus a $1900 setup fee) based on this old webpage. Discs might could have cost half that if you were going to do massive runs. So the profit margin for a $50 disc was good. I'm sure it was even better if you owned the film and a manufacturing plant (Sony and Warner).


These prices were PER SIDE, not per disc. Universal got better pricing ($8 per CLV side, $7 per CAV side), so "The Frighteners" box set cost $64 just to replicate the discs. Pioneer took a bath on the title selling it for $49.99.

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Posted: 28 Apr 2020, 21:23 

The loading motor has only 1 function when switching from Side A to Side B. It lowers the upper clamp further down so the disc centering hub for the top side is engaged. I'm not sure why Pioneer thought they should re-center the disc on the clamp for the top side. I don't recall ever seeing the center hole off center between sides.

The tray loading mechanism on the 2070/3070 is a true mother-f'er to re-time. I have seen that cause issues where the tray will eject part way and then go back in. The biggest issue I've found is the "grease" pioneer used for the loading gears and cams on the tray turn to virtual glue after time. Every 3070 I've resurrected required removing the entire assembly, cleaning and re-greasing.

Have you tried using an 8" disc? I've seen timeout errors sometimes occur if the disc doesn't come up to speed fast enough.

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Posted: 02 May 2020, 20:51 

She pops up all over the Ford Service discs. For fun, you should try to find a Sony LDP-2000 with a data-dump (Level II) board in it so you can watch them with the programming intact.

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Posted: 04 May 2020, 20:51 

She pops up all over the Ford Service discs. For fun, you should try to find a Sony LDP-2000 with a data-dump (Level II) board in it so you can watch them with the programming intact.

Would a LD-V6000A or LD-V8000 work as well?

Unfortunately no. The Sony and Pioneer Level II dumps are not compatible. There are some discs which have both kinds of dumps (Chrysler Motor discs for example). Early GM discs are Pioneer PR7820 only, the rest are LD-V6000/LD-V8000, Ford are Sony. Some of the Ford discs are part of the IVLS system. These discs use a combination of Level II dumps plus PC program data (Level III) as well as Digital Audio capture. Digital Audio capture is pretty neat actually, there is binary audio data encoded in the video signal. Think of different QR codes encoded on each video frame.

I have around 125 Ford titles and an equal number of GM titles. I have never found a complete listing of titles from any of the automobile dealership titles.

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Posted: 09 May 2020, 00:10 

sonicboom wrote:
The DVL-K88 was also released in the US as the DVL-V888. Same specs. The 919 and 888 are pretty similar as well.


The DVL-K88 and DVL-V888 are based on the DVL-909, specifically they won't support DTS DVD playback. The 919 variants are newer.

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Posted: 14 May 2020, 00:47 

This seems to hold true, but it looks more like month/year the order was placed. The mastering date sometimes is out from this. For example:
#024-112-592A 12/19/92J (from "Best of Video Playmate Calendars") where 112 is November 92 and the date is... obviously the date of mastering. The mastering date codes seem to vary in structure too. Sometimes they are actual dates, other times they appear to be "03061L" which might mean 03/06/91. I've seen "5A19Q" which seems to be 01/19/95 and "5A8N" which I take to mean 01/08/95.

If all of this is correct, it looks like "Playboy: Hard Bodies" was one of the last Technidisc titles mastered (6G26G)

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Posted: 14 May 2020, 01:06 

When the DVD spins up, the pickup is a little ways back from the spindle. It will then jump all the way to the spindle motor to read the lead-in tracks. I've seen where it will jump forward and then act like it loses focus and the laser shuts down. The DVD tangential adjustment screw (rear corner, opposite the motor) may be off. Try adjusting 1/4 turn either direction. But remember where you started, and don't turn it more than 1/2 rotation in either direction. You won't damage anything, but getting it back to the correct spot will make you pull all your hair out.

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Posted: 15 May 2020, 18:13 

Also gave DADC Austria a run.

2 types of mint markings:

1/ Either a sequential master on 10 digits (the list I created)

Lowest = A0000029988 for Cliffhanger (1993) [LD 14600]
Highest = A0100272460 is Sexcrimes (1998) [LD 66590]

2/ Or a rather simple master ref with the LD catalog included

Ex: A3BFF LD11774 for Adventures of Baron Munchausen, The (1988) [LD 11774] )

=> https://www.lddb.com/mint/dadc-austria

Julien

I've come across a variant where the DADC USA mint markings are carried over to Austria:
Stripes - Widescreen
USA: LDVS-002137-A-A2
Austria: A3DEELDVS2137 62

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Posted: 03 Jun 2020, 21:32 

There is nothing better about the DVL-700 over the DVL-V888. The DVL-V888 is based on the DVL-909 player. On the LD side, they are going to be comparable. DVD wise, the V888 will be vastly superior.

The problem with the V888 is the standard remote is terrible. There are no facilities for multi-speed or frame advance. The player will do the operations, they are just missing from the remote. If your goal is Karaoke only, the CU-DV016 remote (the remote for the V888) is fine. However for real LaserDisc features, you're better off with the CU-DV018, CU-DV030 or CU-DV027, with the DV027 being the best remote for all DVL players.

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Posted: 22 Jun 2020, 15:25 

Schematic should be here today!

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Posted: 28 Jun 2020, 16:46 

This is typically going to be the tracking gain or tracking bias. But the first issue is using a DiscoVision disc. With DiscoVision, the disc is always suspect until you know the player is working correctly with a newer CAV disc, or you know the disc plays well in another player.

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Posted: 20 Jul 2020, 00:49 

Pinpoint holes are a manufacturing error. Any rot which shows up to the eye on the disc surface will be much more pronounced.

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Posted: 16 Aug 2020, 12:01 

When you notice that the buttons don’t work, is the red light on the front of the player on? I have had issues where the last button pressed sticks (like PLAY) and no other buttons will work. Try pressing the last button a couple of times to see if you can get it to free up. The light on the front should light whenever a button is pressed. If it remains on, that’s your issue. If this is the case, the buttons themselves are sealed So contact cleaner won’t help, but the plastics could be binding. Disassembly will be required to clean them. If the buttons are bad, that’s a bigger project.

You can use a remote for all functions (except reject/open). If the buttons On the player are sticking, the remote will behave the same until the offending button is freed.

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 Post subject: Re: DADC USA Rot Plot
Posted: 16 Sep 2020, 15:56 

I have a copy of Eraser purchased on the day of release, so from the initial batches, and is perfectly clean.
LDVS-003048-A-A41
LDVS-003048-B-B32

I only got the Japan edition because it has an AC-3 track.

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Posted: 24 Nov 2020, 23:49 


CLDs and DVLs have almost nothing in common, btw. I can’t imagine any mods are cross compatible.

Yes and no. The turn mechanism is different (more like a 703/4) but the cores of the pickup and spindle motor are compatible. The decoding chips are quite similar too - the LD PCB was laid out in a newer late 90's technology, though, so it looks quite different.

If the composite output of the TBC is brought out and not just grounded, since they probably never planned to do direct composite out, that bypass mod could work fine.

The spindle motors are mostly the same. Motors with red & white wires from a CLD will not work in a DVL for DVD playback. Motors with green & white wires will work in either player. The LD pickups are interchangeable with the exception of an additional clip on plastic part for the CLD pickup with keeps the ribbon cable from folding back on itself when switching from B to A.

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Posted: 03 Dec 2020, 02:47 

The trick is to always store your discs as vertical as possible. If you have discs leaning on your shelves and there is weight on them (like a stack of discs leaning against a vertical surface), you can get an warp along the edge - I call it a ripple warp. When you spin it on your finger, you can see the edge of the disc wiggle back and forth. If this is too extreme, the pickup cannot track it quickly enough and you can get banding in the video, skipping, distorted audio and so on.

As is discussed here, perfectly vertical and pressed between other discs stored fairly tightly on a shelf will usually flatten discs back out. Do not store discs flat. I've seen the seams in jackets create pinch warps on discs at the bottom of the stack - especially in gate-fold and tri-fold jackets.

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Posted: 05 Dec 2020, 18:38 

In the original post, you mentioned replacing the belt. This being the case, my initial thought is the replacement belt is too big. Some claim the best is 4.0" and that can work for a while, but the correct size is 3.7". If you open the player and while it's loading the disc if you give the mechanism a little lift and it loads successfully, this will confirm it's a belt issue.

The correct measurement of a belt is to pinch it in half and measure the ½ length on a ruler, then double the value. If the measured length is more than 1 13/16, it's too big.

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Posted: 05 Dec 2020, 18:45 

There should be absolutely no play in the joint between the metal bar and the black plastic keeper that holds the bar in place and guides it into the turn mechanism. I have seen that black keeper snap off and the bar can wiggle back and forth, causing the binding you describe.

If this is broken, you can clean all of the grease off the area, insure it's absolutely clean and then glue the black attach point to the player assembly. If it is broken, and it won't repair, the entire base assembly has to be replaced as that clip cannot be replaced on its own.

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 Post subject: Re: Working PR-7820 Value?
Posted: 21 Jan 2021, 04:10 

In Dragon's Lair, the PR-7820 can be swapped out with a LD-V1000. Older boards might require some mods and updated eproms, but that's not terribly difficult to come by.

The PR-7820 is practically required for the early GM discs to play correctly. It will NOT play most discs from the 90s because mastering plants dropped the MCA code carrier from the disc.

The rubber clamp is notorious for turning to goo. I can make replacements if anyone needs one.

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Posted: 30 Jan 2021, 00:37 

I have a handful of badges I've rescued from players I've salvaged. Send me a PM.

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Posted: 30 Jan 2021, 00:43 

This sounds like a bad pickup. It can also occur from the tangential adjustment being off, but that is unlikely to be the cause unless the pickup has been replaced or someone has been mucking with the adjustment.

Easiest thing to do is find another pickup. Pickups from most any player built after 1996 will work, including the LD pickup from a DVL player. The difference are in the plastic attachments on the pickup for each player. You'll need to move them around if you get a pickup from a DVL player or a single-sided CLD player.
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