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| ldstl |
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Posted: 11 May 2021, 05:49
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Ok, I have updates. I found +5V and ground for my molex connector on the top part of the board. Those should be easy enough. For the coax cable, I found a tap point on pin 43, good to go there. Do I need to connect the coax ground?
Pictures included |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 29 Sep 2021, 21:59
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| Will do, I have the board on order. No idea on when it will get here. Will update as soon as I can. |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 28 Oct 2021, 18:49
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Small update on my progress with adding a digital out to the Yamaha DDP-1.
Yesterday, I received the digital out board and immediately went to work. I soldered the Coax input to pin 65 on the PD4606A and found +5V and GND on the pin out of the PD4606A as well. I accidentally bridged a couple pins because they. are. tiny. Bought some solder wick and flux today, fixed the bridge right up. My solder joints are not the best but I did verify I have +5V going to the power board :clap: .
I'm including pictures here and unfortunately cannot test AC-3 lock and digital output until I get home tonight.
https://imgur.com/hwcWKtf - Bottom of the board - Pin 65 digital out connection
https://imgur.com/F2LragH - Top of the board - +5V and GND
Will test tonight and get back to you all. |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 29 Oct 2021, 04:53
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Another update and success! The Yamaha DDP-1 can be modded to output ac-3 sound over optical or coax. I swapped out my SDP-e800 and put the DDP-1 in its place. I waited to punch a hole in the back of the Yamaha until I knew this worked.
Good stuff! Thanks to everyone here for inspiring me.
Ask me any questions, I’m happy to help if I can. |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 07 Apr 2022, 16:48
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Hey all, I'm trying to figure out the RF tap point for a CLD-1070 to install an AC-3 board. Full disclosure, I'm selling these boards for $35. I do not plan on hoarding this information once I find it. I'm trying to gather a database of sorts with images of the RF tap point on various players (+5V, -5V and GND, too).
I've attached some images here to show what I found via the Service Manual for a 1070.
https://imgur.com/icWJdxx.jpg
Page 27 of the Service Manual
https://imgur.com/7b4B6U5.jpg
Page 39 of the Service Manual
https://imgur.com/K5gcn08.jpg
Image of the board I'm using
Thanks! |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 11 Apr 2022, 05:17
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| Thanks ldfan! I would've just PM'd you, but I wanted to put it out here. I want to get through and document as many players as I can. Will wait to get my hands on one of these in the near future. |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 04 May 2022, 05:12
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Consider this one solved! Cplusplus, my fault, I completely missed the chip you were talking about that I should try Pin 53 on :roll: . IC 901 was the chip I needed to aim for. I am attaching a new photo here showing the proper trace and what my wire connection ended up looking like.
Thanks!
Proper Trace to Pin 53 on Audio Chip IC 901
https://i.imgur.com/T4JNyza.jpg
Soldered wire
https://i.imgur.com/7D4c1g0.jpg |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 17 Jul 2022, 22:22
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Thanks for your replies, cplusplus. I made another attempt at further taking this apart last night. There are regular gray type clamps for ribbon cables and there are white ones. I was able to remove the gray type ribbon cables easily enough. The white ones, however, did not come very well. When I pulled the top off these, the ribbon cable goes in there in a very specific way that I'm not sure I can put back together.
This one may be a goner. I cut the transformer out the other night, leaving 1 inch leads on all previously connected Test Pins. This way, I can hook it back up like for like. With the way these ribbon cables are, it doesn't seem like this was meant to have one board come out at a time but rather pull all the boards connected, leaving the ribbon cables intact. I need to rest on this thing for a day or two and get the wherewithal to try once more to put it back together and test your pin spots.
One positive I have gotten from this is I figured out where on the audio board to tap for Optical and Digital Out to bypass the 5.1 discrete outputs. The tap point is tiny. I have a photo added below that shows where it is. The first photo is of the audio board cover that needs to be removed to access the audio board.
Audio Board cover
https://i.imgur.com/iFtYtJW.jpg
Audio Board Pin 65 for Digital Out Board
https://i.imgur.com/NvuYmKW.jpg
Ribbon Cables
https://i.imgur.com/x0tdlPM.jpg |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 20 Aug 2022, 04:47
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Hey everyone! I tackled the first part of this repair just now. I started by reading the manual, but quickly deviated from that.
First step was to power on the player and eject the drawer, then remove power.
Then, remove the top right board (looking at the front of the player).
After the top board is out, you need to remove the side board underneath. After removing this board, you can remove 3 screws on the bottom board to loosen that one.
From here, the back panel should be removed (it slides out of the way, not fully removable because of power cord construction).
Final step is to wiggle the bottom board out while paying attention to tight cables (there will be multiple)
After this, you can reach the assembly while pulling on the boards. It's a mess.
There are two screws on the top of the assembly to remove and two on the bottom of the chassis. Remove these and the spring will release as well.
For me, I didn't pull the whole assembly, on the end with the rod and the receiver part of the clip.
This whole process took about 15 minutes. I'm sure it will be bad putting it all back together, but not a bad experience so far. I'll throw in some photos here.
Drawer Mechanism
https://i.imgur.com/TiYYaxr.jpg
Drawer Mechanism 2
https://i.imgur.com/Jd2Wugy.jpg
Boards
https://i.imgur.com/jYZCOIk.jpg
Back of Player
https://i.imgur.com/xzAsQBV.jpg |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 20 Aug 2022, 14:25
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| I ordered a replacements from a couple different places. The eBay link in this thread still had one there. I also found one on Amazon. The plan is to receive both in, then I'll do a best of breed and figure out what works best. More info to come. |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 16 Sep 2022, 03:41
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This thing has some ghosts. I took the power supply out, check it completely and reinstalled it along with the transformer. When I got everything plugged back in, the spindle motor no longer spins when I plug it into the wall! Progress...
You know how this goes, you fix one problem, two more pop up. I seem to have issues with the playback of a CD (won't play at all, vigorously tries to load but gives up) and LDs skip backwards when watching on side A. It looks like I need to adjust Side A centering and that is done from underneath the player? I saw a diagram for the 3080 where you put it between two tables, then you can access the adjustment screw.
Second issue is the front display doesn't show a counter when I begin playing a disc, it drops the 1-20 something chapter list on the front display and just says "LD 0:00" and doesn't begin counting when the disc starts playing. Weird, I can live with that one, but not sure if it's something simple like changing out a front display ribbon.
I know I bring a lot of these issues to the forum, but this is so fun when you make progress on a fix! Thanks to everyone for your help. |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 17 Aug 2023, 21:01
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Hey all, I thought I would weigh in on this. I recently had a couple of processors show up (Yamaha DDP-1 and Denon AVD-2000) that did not work. They would turn on fine, the screen looked good, but they would not lock RF AC-3 signal.
I talked with someone over at LDF and they pointed me to possibly failed Voltage regulators. Sure enough, voltage was going in fine to the regulator, but only +1 Volt was coming out (should've been +5V). I replaced the same component on each device and voila, both work great.
Just something to keep in mind for future failed processors/demodulators. |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 06 Oct 2023, 05:16
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Reviving a dead thread, but for good reason. I recently got a Yamaha DDP-1 and it exhibited similar symptoms to OPs.
As indicated in the post above, I ordered the micro processor from utsource.com but it didn't make a difference! Read below for the actual fix. BTW, the chip was $5 but shipping was $25, oh well.
When I pushed the power button, the display would initially light up YAMAHA DDP-1 etc. but it would not load the second part which would be to indicate no RF signal.
I've had a couple other DDP-1 failures before this one and received some good advice from someone over at LDF to check the voltage regulators.
IC22 and IC23 were both bad. These are 7805A (similar part https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/stmicroelectronics/L7805ACP/1038231 )
Each time I repaired a DDP-1, it has always been a 7805A voltage regulator. One of the symptoms was the machine would fire up fine but not process an AC-3 signal.
I attached a couple images below to illustrate where these are. IC23 is difficult to remove - you need to use a pair of pliers to first remove the set screw, then you can un-solder the part.
Board (excuse the dirt, waited to clean it until I knew I could fix)
https://imgur.com/suxZSJ9.jpg
Old voltage regulators
https://imgur.com/Mit5vBC.jpg |
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| ldstl |
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Posted: 11 Feb 2024, 20:06
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Who is this guy?? I trust krbhar, grasshopper and the other one or two, LDfan and one other I can't remember his name now.
They have been fixing stuff and have had players go through their hands to know what to do.
Hi rein-o, that's me. Early on in posting to my newly minted Youtube channel. I'm trying to publish things as I work on them, good or bad. I usually post my results at the end. |
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Thanks list