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| ldfan |
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Posted: 18 Feb 2019, 01:45
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Here are all the points you need for the CLD-3030 (CLD-99S)...
Wide view from bottom
https://vgy.me/UBh4a6.jpg
Close up view of the AFM and Mute point
https://vgy.me/cTDxcr.jpg
The points for +5vdc (red), -5vdc (blue), and GND (black) can be found anywhere and clearly labeled so you don't have to use the points I chose on my player.
Now you just need to build an AC3-RF board for the player.
Hope this helps. :) |
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| retrocution |
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Posted: 26 Apr 2021, 03:18
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Hey everyone. I came across a CLD-505 at a Goodwill for $19.99, took her home and found a broken M Mount inside. I did research looking for replacements and of course discovered they were no longer being produced. I then searched for files to 3D print a new one and found that others were working on them, but not much progress or public releases. So I started trying to create my own in the last 2 weeks and have successfully created a working prototype. It's by no means perfect and could probably still use some tweaking, which is why I am fully releasing not only .STL files, but also model files in Fusion 360 and .STEP format for others to tweak the design themselves. I've released the files to the public domain without any restrictions.
You can find the files on my Thingiverse page here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4839120
Also available at Prusa Printers : https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/64739-pioneer-laserdisc-vnl-1779-m-mount
I've modified the design of the original to accept metal shafts which can be found on Amazon.
The smaller of the 2 gears has a 2mm inner diameter for the shafts, and the larger gear is 2.5mm.
2.0mm : https://amzn.to/3gHEyPg
2.5mm : https://amzn.to/3eAsixz
This is more of a DIY solution. You must be willing to tinker around and assemble the part. It's working for me, but YMMV.
Hope this helps! |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 08 Aug 2021, 04:16
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It is not uncommon for motors to completely detach from a pickup after the M-Holder shatters. Using very high-gauge wire and a very small amount of solder, it is possible to jump the leads as seen in the attached image. I hope this helps someone  . |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 11 Aug 2021, 21:36
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CLD-3030 and its slightly nicer Japanese revision CLD-99S need to be handled with care.
I have seen these issues:
The black plastic holder of the threaded brass rod that is responsible for moving the pickup will break.
Broken_Holder.jpg
A black plastic knob that tilts the pickup will break.
Broken_Tilt_Pin.jpg
The white plastic gears on the tray roller will break.
Broken_Tray_Roller.jpg
The worst of all is the holder for the threaded brass rod. So far my solution is to use some thicker-gauge wire to bind it to the metal piece that runs adjacent to it, but someone here might have a better idea. |
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| d770 |
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Posted: 25 Nov 2021, 13:56
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Another Yamaha DDP-1 Digital Output Modification success!
Tested working nicely! - no more Lipsync issues when using DVD Recorder for Video enhancement.
That leaves the Marantz DP-870 to mod. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2022, 03:07
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The middle leg of Q351 is where I tapped my RF point on my CLD-M90 and it works great.
I don’t think there is really an exactly correct place to tap the RF so it can possibly work where you have it (only way to find out is to try it). In any case, the RF tap is somewhere just before the band pass filter of the CX chip which is exactly where you have it.
As for using an oscilloscope to find a tap point, I don’t think it’s necessary. So long as you know the general location you need to go, just see what happens. Worst case it doesn’t work and you just move on to another nearby point and try again. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2022, 19:23
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ldfan wrote: In any case, the RF tap is somewhere just before the band pass filter
Yep - in Pioneer-land, you are looking for the two transistors just before the BPF. Some models even keep the same numbering: Q352.
No need to scope it, but if you really want to: http://www.laaudiofile.com/ac3mod.html |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 03 May 2022, 14:19
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I'm surprised there is a datasheet on that.
Anyway, IC901 is below the one you were tracing. I do not think that is a match either, since PLL Offset is on a different pin. It does not seem the SM you linked is a match.
Probably the easiest way to find the tap without SM is to look for the IC with the CX logo as ldfan mentioned, or look for AFM labeled somewhere. |
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| ldfan |
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Posted: 18 Jul 2022, 09:09
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Well.....it has been now 19 months & change since my last update regarding this processor repair and recently I had to tackle a totally different issue. Check out my YouTube video below to see what I was dealing with....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwH1ISfQcuc
So as you can see, my VFD (Vacuum Fluorescent Display) was having this shimmering/flickering issue. My first thought was that the VFD lost its seal and now it was probably shot and I would have to live with it (or get another E800 display board which means just getting another E800). Anyway, I did some research to see if the issue could be something else and I eventually found a posting about someone trying to fix a flickering issue on a Sony DAT machine and he diagnosed it down to a shorted zener diode in the power supply.
So at this point, I focused on the transformer section to see if there was any odd readings and I really couldn't find anything that seemed odd (especially if the rest of the unit was working fine). I then decided to measure out of the power coming from connector CN-101 (connects between main board and the display board). Here is a pic for reference....
https://i.vgy.me/O5xpYA.jpg
There is a 32vdc line that is the main supply for the VFD on pin 3 and I measured 39vdc so I assumed that maybe this is an issue of too much power. I looked up the path of this 39vdc line and was able to follow it back to Q-901 located here on the main board....
https://i.vgy.me/KsqfWN.jpg
The reading I got from this transistor was the same 39vdc so I then removed the main board from the chassis to inspect the underside since there were other parts associated w/ this transistor. Upon making some quick readings w/ the voltmeter, I did find a defective part and it was D-903 (a zener diode as was mentioned by the person writing about his DAT machine) and it was shorted completely....
https://i.vgy.me/fxssab.jpg
And as I mentioned in the pic, the issue appears to be voltage escaping into the GND line and this must be the cause of the VFD shimmering (I thought that maybe the zener diode's function was to bring the 39vdc down to 32vdc but it turns out the 39vdc is normal for the VFD circuit).
Anyway, I researched the part that I needed but could not find an exact match. I went with a zener diode that appears to be able to handle more watts but was rated the same for voltage. I de-soldered the old part and cleaned up the solder pads to get the surface flat to make installation easier for the replacement...
https://i.vgy.me/L2WF61.jpg
And now the new part in place...
https://i.vgy.me/l86sd2.jpg
I reassembled the processor and glad to see the display was back to normal again :thumbup: .....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBRNXO8inR0
Moving on... let's discuss the reason I started this topic in the first place which was always about the audio cutting out. Well, after these 19 months the issue has never been completely resolved. The typical issue I get now is that I will lose sound on the unit on all channels approximately every 20 days or so. Sometimes I can resolve this issue by doing things like changing inputs or hitting the test tone button and it's good again for either a few days or few hours later. However, sometimes it just completely stays dead and won't come back until I open it up and fiddle around inside the unit. And so here is my new observation on what I think could be the issue now. Let's go back to this connector.....
https://i.vgy.me/O5xpYA.jpg
So, what I would do is fiddle around with this connector (CN-101) and it always comes back after I re-seat it. However, I can't replicate the issue with any consistency as fiddling w/ the connector after the re-seat won't kill the processor again. So after much thought, I am thinking that maybe the issue is in the plug and I am dealing w/ some problem w/ the springiness of the pins inside that possibly aren't applying enough friction on the ribbon cable. I did make an attempt to push out the pins from above but I'm not sure if it worked or not (I may need to remove the plug first and work on it from below). Also, another consideration is that the ribbon cable might also have some oxidation issue and maybe rubbing something like Deoxit on it could improve conductivity (remember, it appears to have a good connection for 20 days and then it loses it which could be an oxidation build up in that time period).
Hopefully I'll get around to it sooner than later. |
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| csidresal |
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Posted: 05 Apr 2023, 22:41
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As I mentioned in that thread awhile back, the only way to tap the digital output is to go directly to the DSP IC. This is the IC and pin that you would need to extract the signal from.....
https://i.vgy.me/bRUm4J.png
The difficult part of getting to this chip is that it's on the downward facing side of the main board which means you need to remove the board from the player to get to it. If you feel comfortable doing that, then it shouldn't be difficult. You just need to make sure to find a good opening to get the coax cable back to the top side of the board. Also, I don't think there is a trace that leads out from pin 43 so you might need to solder directly to that very tiny leg (not something I would be comfortable doing myself).
Okay, thanks! I didn't realize from reading that thread if that was definitive or not, or if there was still hope there was some place 43 came through. Good to know and I appreciate you confirming. I had tried following the service manual and thought I found a jumper, but yeah no I was wrong and it didn't work of course. Hard to follow those traces even zoomed in at my age :)
It's strange from the optical cut out that 5 volt and Ground are connected (I believe from my testing). I wonder why they would have left the trace to 43 unconnected. Oh well.
Yeah, I probably won't attempt it at least for a while. Don't want to risk any damage as my player is working great. Plus I guess I would really only use it for DTS discs and I don't own any anyway. For normal discs RCA is fine since you can switch between digital and analog, I believe you lose that with Toslink/SPDIF so...
AC3 mod was for sure much easier and has really added a lot to the enjoyment of so many of the discs I already have.
Thanks again to ldstl, originally came across his AC3 mod board in this thread: https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=10326 |
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Thanks list