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Posted: 09 Dec 2018, 02:55 

Very nice setup forper.

forper wrote:
It stopped firing up once and I did surgery on it for a week to install a new chip.

Are parts that readily available for these?

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Posted: 12 Jan 2019, 05:55 

CLD-D702 CU-CLD068

Based on manuals uploaded here:
CLD-3080 CU-CLD024
CLD-97 CU-CLD090
CLD-D504 CU-CLD112
LD-S1 CU-LD008
LD-S2 CU-LD019

For my CLD-1070 I have CU-CLD017 which *should* be the original remote.

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 Post subject: Re: Sony MDP 650D
Posted: 27 Jan 2019, 17:56 

Have you taken a look at the service manual? The one for MDP-650D isn't uploaded here, but I do see that it is available for free online. It covers tray removal and gear alignment.

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Posted: 03 Feb 2019, 22:32 

How is your back :lol:

Managed to get it out of its car to its final destination. I have a feeling if it had the side panels on it, that extra 2lbs would have been too much :lol:

$600 is a lot of money. I feel you either need to be affluent or have an unhealthy obsession with LD. I'm the latter. Yes, it does look ridiculously good.

I'm hoping there are no issues with it since I was only able to spot check it. No telling if this was moved improperly before I got there. :|

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 Post subject: Re: How about a Discord ?
Posted: 03 Apr 2019, 03:25 

signofzeta wrote:
This forum lets us put all our thoughts out in well formatted posts that are actually worth something an hour or a year later
signofzeta wrote:
When you make your posts on this forum you make it better and better.


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Posted: 05 Aug 2019, 01:45 

I recently acquired two industrial players and I've built a cable to talk to them. I thought I would document the process here:

1. Buy a male DB15 connector and a female DB9 connector.
From DB15 to DB9 connect:
Pioneer sold this as Pioneer Cable # CC-13. PacParts still has at least some variant of this available for order, but it is of course quadruple the cost of making one.

2. Buy USB to RS-232C converter. I believe I purchased mine at RadioShack long ago. Mine was made by Prolific.

3. If you don't have Linux running somewhere, install it on VirtualBox. I used Debian 9. After the OS is done installing, go to Devices -> USB and select your USB/serial converter.

4. Ensure your player is set to 4800 baud. On most players (all?) this is controlled by dip switch two on the back. It should be off for 4800 (up position).

5. ls /dev should show ttyUSB0. You can begin communication with stty. For example stty 4800 < /dev/ttyUSB0; echo -e "OP\r" > /dev/ttyUSB0 should open the door.

6. If you want something a little more robust, install minicom. Start with minicom -s and go to device (A) and set to /dev/ttyUSB0. Go to serial port setup (E) and change speed to 4800. Disable hardware flow control. Save setup as dfl.

I'm currently writing a library to make it easier to interact with these players. Controlling these players through software is pretty cool and can be useful. For example, it is possible to disable repeat play which is pretty annoying on these players, set the player into test mode, change background from blue to black, play at half speed, get your player's hardware revision number, etc.

Next up is to buy the barcode software Pioneer made to see if barcodes can be created from the more useful commands.

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Posted: 06 Aug 2019, 01:16 

All CLD remotes are compatible across CLD units?

CLD and LD models. I tend to use the same remote across all my players. You might have a few buttons that do not work.
I like to have the original remotes to players I acquire if I can get them for a decent price, but this really isn't necessary unless you need a specific button/buttons for a player (i.e. CLD-99 DNR).

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Posted: 01 Dec 2019, 23:12 

I'm curious about this now as well. I have the gold one with no number, but if I get a silver one I'll post it here for sure.

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Posted: 04 Dec 2019, 00:12 

I purchased a R2 release from 2006 of this with 1.85 labeled on the back. It looks like the DVD was matted.

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Posted: 04 Dec 2019, 04:25 

Yes ineed. Sonicboom got it spot on with his above post. The digital HD version looks to be 1.78. There is just a minuscule amount of picture removed.

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Posted: 17 Jan 2020, 04:02 

Anyone have recommendations for what I should look for in a scope?
It needs to be dual-trace. I think Kurtis has recommended a TDS 210 before. I have a newer Tektronix DSO, but if you have the space for an analog one it will save you money.

Just remember you are adjusting to play 1 or 2 junk discs and then could potentially destroy your player.
Very much so.

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Posted: 18 Jan 2020, 01:05 

Glad to see the size was increased. It was a real struggle sometimes to meet the 150kb size limit. I prefer uploading to the forum directly to keep things documented better. I've seen a lot of old posts with broken image links.

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Posted: 18 Jan 2020, 01:16 

If your power supply ever fails due to something like this, it doesn't necessarily mean your player is dead and gone. It could be as simple as replacing a fuse. Either way it is probably more repairable than a dead optical pickup.

I leave my players unplugged when I'm not using them.

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 Post subject: Re: Alignment of LD-V8000
Posted: 19 Jan 2020, 21:37 

The red laser found in the HLD players is different from the HeNE lasers found in pre-infrared models. The LD-660 I have looks a lot better than I thought it would. Hardware aside, early discs in general will not look as good as later discs even on a LD-S2.

I'd love to have a LD-V4400 or even a LD-V8000 if I could find one locally for a reasonable price. With your LD-V4400 at least you should be able to follow an amazing alignment guide (thank you Simon) at

But again, in regards to maintenance. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Wait until you start experiencing crosstalk, track jumping, audio issues on discs you know are good.

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Posted: 31 Jan 2020, 05:37 

The laser might not be centered over the spindle motor. This is a mechanical adjustment. I'd wait for krbahr to weigh in though- he is the expert.

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Posted: 07 Feb 2020, 00:39 

Short the metal post in the red box in the attached image to the chassis of the player while turning it on. Be careful you only touch the post with whatever you are using. I have a wire with alligator clips on each end that works nicely, but you can probably get by using a paperclip.

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Posted: 11 Feb 2020, 04:46 

Very nice collection there!

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Posted: 17 Feb 2020, 03:58 

The test post must connect to the metal chassis of the player while you are turning the unit on. After that, you can remove whatever you are using to connect the two. You will see a bunch of diagnostic white text on the screen.

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 Post subject: Re: LD: 2050
Posted: 17 Feb 2020, 04:55 

Do you think existing and working players will start to climb drastically in price?
They have definitely been climbing.

Do you think any existing players will run out of spare parts?
Yes. The M-Holder and grip ring are two examples currently.

Another factor here is the lifespan of the discs themselves. The estimated lifespan for optical media varies greatly. i.e. I've read 50 years and I've read 200.

In regards to the longevity of players, I've never had one that just died on me. Further, the players I repair are mostly (relatively) trivial fixes: belt issues, grip ring issues, crosstalk, etc. It is not often I'm debugging something on the boards. These are all purchased locally though. The damage that occurs from shipping these players opens up a whole new world of problems. Buy local.

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Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 23:43 

Sounds like there might be some issue with focus.

And if we can't is there a way to disable the autoflip feature?
Press the A or B button instead of play.

There are 2 other issues sometimes with this model of player, search up m-holder and the slipping mat.
The CLD-D504 was the first of the CLD-D50x series to use the dreaded M-Holder (thankfully). The most common issue I see with the CLD-Dx01/x02 is the clamper which just manifests itself as the inability to eject.

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Posted: 26 Feb 2020, 00:46 

A few more:

CLD-D501 CU-CLD069
CLD-D502 CU-CLD084
CLD-D503 CU-CLD084
CLD-D703 CU-CLD098

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Posted: 28 Feb 2020, 21:59 

Yeah thats honestly the best idea. There is "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." and then "If it ain't broke enough, don't fix it." :lol:

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Posted: 28 Feb 2020, 22:13 

I use ... re-corners

You can find them cheaper from other resellers than through their website.

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Posted: 28 Feb 2020, 23:06 

I use those sleeves but I don't buy them from the manufacturer's website. They'll still be about 50 cents each which adds up quick, so I use them selectively. I'd be several $100 deep if I replaced them all.

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 Post subject: Re: [CLD-92] Audio Noise
Posted: 03 Mar 2020, 05:09 

Update on this. After a lot of more or less hopeless pondering, I figured out how to get this back up and running. The thermal fuse inside the transformer was for sure blown. I am unable to simply replace the fuse because this is a laminated core transformer that has been welded together. I also looked under the tape and saw no signs of a fuse. Additionally, I could not find a suitable replacement for this transformer. After removing it from the power supply board, I saw what appeared to be the legs of a fuse wrapped around two posts on the primary side. I jumped these, presumably bypassing the fuse, and power came back on the secondary side. Voltages looked good and my repair on the audio board worked great. I ran a full LD and the only issue I noticed was the transformer was a little warm afterwards. Not a good sign, so I'll need to look into why that is happening before I consider this repaired. Additionally, I'll need to see about getting a low threshold thermal fuse to put on the side of the transformer for safety reasons. Other than that the picture looks great and the sound is back to normal.
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