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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 07 Sep 2021, 23:22
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+1 for GRT1028
I would love to have this. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 10 Sep 2021, 15:08
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For CLD-2080 you should be able to use CLD-3080 SM. I have the ProScan clone SM of the CLD-2080 though.
Yes CLD-D504 has what is called "recombined composite". You can bypass comb filter in CLD-D504. It is CXD2023Q. Datasheet for this IC (not SM) shows same info on Pin 71 as the post here: https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?p=98007#p98007 so you could then make a custom S-Video Y -> Composite cable or tap R145.
Regardless of picture, CLD-2080 is much better built than CLD-D504. Video quality of CLD-3080 though is a jump up from CLD-2080. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 12 Sep 2021, 20:17
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That piece looks to be the plastic that goes over the lens:
Lens.jpg
I would not try to reattach it.
Your belt looks worn in that photo. I'd order a new one, but in the meantime, take it off, wash it with water and clean the pulleys in the player with cotton swab and alcohol. If you still get U1, gently try to help the mechanism finish raising with your hand. Don't use any real force. If that does not complete loading, something is probably out of place in regards to timing or something is bent. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 12 Sep 2021, 20:42
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I'd love to have a LD-S1. I would think that would be the best option, but there are a ton of electronics jammed in that unit so who knows how they are holding up 35 or so years later.
PSLD46 can probably have same composite mod done on it. You can also mod it to use Pioneer remote if you don't have RCA/ProScan remote for it.
I have not done this mod yet, but I do have several players with the CXD2023/CXD2024 chip that I need to refurbish. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 16 Sep 2021, 04:48
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They weren't really commercial ICs, they were internal ICs. Some service manuals show IC internals and full pinouts though. I have a few technical training manuals that go into a tad more detail for the players they were written for.
All the information the tech needed in regards to ICs was in the service manual and service guide. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 16 Sep 2021, 05:41
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Are there any places I should look first for more feedback? The RF TP? If so, what should I look for on a scope/DMM?
Look at focus error.
Should I look at the parts on the head assembly? Perhaps Q7 and/or the NJM2904M could be suspect?
Q122 feeds Q7 so start there.
I am conditioned to shotgun replace capacitors. Should I look into replacing the caps on the SRVD PCBA?
Need to figure out root cause first.
I have not been able to check PSU voltages when the laser is trying to read the disc, only when the player is idle. Could there be PSU issues at play here?
Not sure, but that would be the easy fix. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Sep 2021, 01:52
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| Someone gave me a LX-600 or 900 that couldn't play digital at all. I think it was due to bulging caps in DA section. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Sep 2021, 02:05
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Welcome!
heenster wrote: This better?
Yep!
Try setting sharpness to 0 or 1. Then when you put in a widescreen disc like MIB match black bars on bottom to the ones on side and then you can watch it 4:3 or zoom. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Sep 2021, 05:22
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Kinda related to this- the forum broke a record a few days ago:
Most users ever online was 328 on 14 Sep 21, 5:47pm
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Sep 2021, 17:46
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Can't really hear anything.
Glad it is working. Since you had to glue Side A rail back, ensure first minute or so of a CD plays without skipping. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Sep 2021, 17:51
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This is fantastic. Thanks for sharing. I have a demodulation board I pulled from a Harman Kardon that I've been planning to attempt the same with.
In regards to soldering, it looks like you just need to buy some flux. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 19 Sep 2021, 01:46
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rein-o wrote: I had some issues recently with I believe 60-40 solder and it just won't flow, has flux core.
Yep. I use Radio Shack solder and SRA Flux #125. I usually gob too much on there but I'd rather just clean it up after. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 19 Sep 2021, 03:22
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 19 Sep 2021, 03:57
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What's your opinion of the 1N4695 as a substitute for the HZS9.1NB2 ? It looks like the leads are a little wider in diameter but I'm not sure I have a choice here.
Given that this is in such a sensitive path and this is the best player ever made, I would really try to buy the original. Due to MOQ the cheapest you could get (a ton for) is about $50 + shipping. :shock:
https://octopart.com/search?q=HZS9.1NB2¤cy=USD&specs=0
Listed at this site too- but this company always says they have parts that they don't: https://instrumentalparts.com/diode-hzs9-1nb2/
In regards to the 1N4695, I don't know enough to know if that is an appropriate replacement. Vz looks fine, but no idea on reverse current and resistance. You might could ask on an EE forum. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 20 Sep 2021, 15:04
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| Is the pickup a Sony? Should say something like KHS-130A near the lens. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 21 Sep 2021, 00:23
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| Attached are the tap points. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 21 Sep 2021, 14:31
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I will say I was not impressed on the T8000 I worked on. Was basically just a CLD-D702/D760 with audio tapped running to EAD board installed behind notch.
Swap should be able to be done, but as I said before make sure you don't unscrew anything that is common across both KHS-130A. Attached is an image from the CDV400 SM, where 051M, 052M should be fine to remove.
Make a separate post on MLD7020. One of us here might be able to help. Kurtis knows that player well. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 21 Sep 2021, 14:35
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gypsy wrote: cplusplus wrote: Kinda related to this- the forum broke a record a few days ago: Most users ever online was 328 on 14 Sep 21, 5:47pm
Interesting. I would guess that includes bots, in which case I wonder how many were bots.
You have to believe!  |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 22 Sep 2021, 01:09
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| Check pages 76-78 of CLD-99 SM for mode control details. Pinout of IC is on page 69. From there you can look at the service guide here: CLD-D770 |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 22 Sep 2021, 01:43
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Cant see the image of the SM….
That is because I forgot to attach it. :lol:
Im kinda stubborn…
Perfect quality for anyone attempting LD repair in 2021.
And hints on how to get it in service mod and aligning the Pickup?
If you don't have an oscilloscope, you don't need to enter test mode.
Poorly written (and potentially damaging ) guidelines based on CDV400 (which I know little about) if you have neither scope or test disc:
Attempt playback. If it will not, adjust focus gain.
Skip to last minute of the longest CLV you have. Adjust tilt until no crosstalk. Then skip to first minute and ensure no crosstalk. If still crosstalk adjust LD focus balance.
Check for any skipping and adjust tracking if so. Balance > Gain
Dial RF gain down until you see dropouts and then dial back up until you don't.
Put in a CAV and freeze frame for a while at first minute of disc and last minute to make sure it doesn't jump.
Play CD. Adjust CD focus balance until it sounds good.
You really need an oscilloscope and test disc. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 22 Sep 2021, 23:46
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| I'd go with an analog scope if you have the space. I have a similar digital Tektronix and the eye pattern is nowhere near as clean as my analog one. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 24 Sep 2021, 02:37
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it. It really is easy to mess these up even if doing just light maintenance.
That being said, a light maintenance routine applicable to CDV-W901 and CLD-S201 focused on longevity:
Unplug unit.
Remove all dust/dirt from heat sensitive components (most of power supply and whatever ICs have fins on them on main board). CLD-S201 has three chassis mounted transistors that need attention. I use cotton swab damp with 91% isopropyl.
Inspect lens with a light. If the surface is not clearly dirty stay clear. Clean the tilt sensor next to it though.
Clean and lightly re-grease rails with EM-30L. Add a dab to center of spindle that touches clamper.
Replace belts (there are two on CLD-S201). Clean the pulleys before putting new one on.
Clean spindle grip.
I do much, much more but beyond the above is higher risk than reward. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 25 Sep 2021, 18:02
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CLD-2090/3090 were very problematic models.
Service notes for this model say a defective spindle or (less likely in your situation) poor solder connections.
Since you have an oscilloscope, you can easily see what is going on. Play a CD and look for the eye pattern. It should be very clear (hopefully you have an analog scope- it is harder to see on digital)
If the eye pattern does not look clean, that could be an indicator that it has a defective spindle.
Digital audio is stored at the very beginning (0 to 2Mhz) of the frequency spectrum on laserdisc, before the analog audio (2.3Mhz CH1, 2.8Mhz CH2). This might provide some insight into why you get analog, but not digital. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 25 Sep 2021, 18:04
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| I posted in your CLD-2290 thread. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 27 Sep 2021, 15:21
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| My sincere thanks to Julien as well as the members here for making this the best LD community on the web. |
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Thanks list