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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 06 Sep 2022, 15:03
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Just the center metal mech. The entire assembly sits on a large spring, and you can tilt it by applying slight pressure to plate above Side B. This is an adjustment not found on later players, outlined in the first part of step four.
For centering, you can use a CD. The adjustment for Side A is horizontal. A scope makes it much easier, but you can do it by ear with tilt on and tracking off. I would check the above first. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 06 Sep 2022, 16:20
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do I need to use any kind of protection device for the transformer, I want to see if I got any kind of voltage from the secondary legs.
When you tell me about the thermal fuse, this is inside the transformer?
You need protection for yourself, but there is a lot of information out there on how to test transformers.
A lot of the schematics around this era show the fuse connects primary leg 5 to 6. You can see what are likely the legs of it in your photo. You probably will not be able to replace it since it is within the transformer, and jumping the fuse is a fire hazard .
Assuming a thermal fuse melted, you need to find out what caused it. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 13 Sep 2022, 14:56
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Would the ability to list remotes and spare parts make sense?
It could be as simple as a "Part #" field and a "Description" field. If not, maybe a hardware/parts WTB/WTS/WTT forum? I have an absurd amount of parts. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 29 Feb 2024, 00:49
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krbahr wrote: The problem I've commonly found is the worm gear that tilts the mechanical assembly breaks, no parts available if that is your issue.
This.
"Tilt shaft assembly"
DXB1118 is the original part number, DXB1533 the new part number and both are NLA.
Attachment: DXB1533.jpg |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2024, 05:34
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krbahr wrote: Just put in a disc that doesn't work, flip it to side B and add pressure to the right to see if it starts up and if it doesn't then add pressure to the left. If it works with pressure added then the centering is out of proper adjustment. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2024, 05:39
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2024, 06:41
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| It would be interesting to collect mint marks when reporting rot to see if any trend can be established. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 20 Apr 2024, 03:02
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- Is ~$100 a good amount of cash to spend on this?
$100 total, yes.
- If the spindle motor is good in the D503, how difficult a job is it to replace these components?
I would say it is medium difficultly. Take care not to over disassemble. Do not break off the PCB lead that sticks out of the bottom of the metal spindle case. Replace the grip before you put it into the CLD-D704. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 02 May 2024, 00:14
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There are some photos here: https://laserdiscarchive.com/laserdisc_archive/pioneer/pioneer_ld-v3000/pioneer_ld-v3000.htm
I have one on-hand but it looks to have been in ~5cm of water for quite a while.
COSV_Back.jpg
DEMB.jpg
I will at least get some good photos of the unit for the DB once it is cleaned up. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 04 May 2024, 08:13
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I was brought a CLD-D99 with some playback problems. There would be an intermittent P5 error. I opened it up and noticed Side A centering locking had been broken (never a good sign unless it has been reapplied). Even worse: half of the Side A centering adjustment screw had been broken off:
Centering_Broken.jpg
The adjustment seemed quite stubborn so I took a look at the side to see where it was at:
Centering_View.jpg
The underside of this adjustment screw is similar to a half circle, and it was all the way around where the flat side was against the motor base (only should be this way when the motor base needs to be separated from the tilt base). This is what the service manual means by "Be careful not to turn the centering adjustment screw past its limit." I could not get it back around so I pulled the entire mech. What had happened is the back of the motor base disconnected from the tilt base. This photo is after I corrected it:
Tilt_Base.jpg
After that it was mostly downhill with the servicing except for the frustration of re-centering with a torx screwdriver into what was left of the centering screw. Better than the underside being broken off at least.
On a side note, I did not know there were two types of CLD-D99s: one with a voltage selector and one without. This one has the voltage selector and (based on SM) came out the year after the one without the voltage selector. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 10 May 2024, 01:28
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Thanks list