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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 21 Apr 2021, 22:45
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You loosen black screw slightly (thus breaking compound), then make tiny turns to the white "screw" in the square box. Tighten black screw and if your problem is resolved lock it with fingernail polish or something more proper like Dykem Cross-Check Torque Seal.
An oscilloscope will allow you to set this on the first try by looking at tracking error waveform. If you don't have a scope it is tedious trial and error. After Side B change is complete, it should start playing video quickly and should not hesitate. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 22 Apr 2021, 02:42
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As I understand it then - we are talking about a mechanical lateral adjustment of the pickup assembly in relation to the centreline of the spindle.
Correct.
As for the brands of pickups, it is what the pickup is attached to that moves. i.e. the rail/shaft or base.
Since it sounds like it is almost playing a CD, you can find out where this adjustment is and then make tiny turns left/right until playback starts. This adjustment point is likely in a location where you can adjust it while a CD is clamped on the spindle.
Centering is just speculation though. When you swap out pickups like this, there are several adjustments to be checked and made. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 23 Apr 2021, 15:04
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I'd clean and re-grease the shaft if this is only Side A.
That doesn't explain the OSD issue though. I'm wondering if it is a power issue? I'm not sure, just throwing ideas out. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 24 Apr 2021, 02:25
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Welcome to the forum.
Yeah looks like CLD-900. If you confirm spindle is bad, you are looking for VXM-044. Can always try disassembling the motor itself too and see what is inside. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 24 Apr 2021, 14:28
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I tried turning the belt/pulley each way numerous times and I was not able to get the tray out.
It takes a ton of turns. Don't force it though if it begins to become hard to turn. Start spinning other way.
Here's a suggestion; you might wanna get a few extra ones in slightly smaller size(s); my player is also specced for SCQ3.8 but when I replaced it the problem just returned after a week or two, but after I put in a SCQ3.6 (or maybe it was 3.5? I can't remember) I haven't had any issues with it since.
Interesting. I swapped from SCQ3.6 to SCQ3.8. I wish they made a SCQ3.7. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 30 Apr 2021, 21:48
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| It is very unlikely to be a motor issue. i.e. CLD-3030 slider motor holder can crack completely off in shipping. General rule of thumb is don't ship players. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 01 May 2021, 23:42
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Kurtis is the guru!
From my experience:
CLD-3070 built better than CLD-3080, CLD-3080 has better PQ. CLD-3070 harder to work on. I've seen the CLD-3080 gear that is used to move the pickup crack in half in shipping. CLD-3070 has transit screw that is always missing, but I have not seen any issues arise from that. I just like having the transit screws + correct remote. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 10 May 2021, 03:50
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First up, a documentary I've seen about 6 jillion times already but one more time can't hurt! The superb When We Were Kings.
If you've never seen it, watch it.
Added to my wishlist. I've been on a big documentary/educational kick lately. Just watched Smithsonian: Gems & Minerals (1989) [LVD9005] which seems excessively dull when looking at the title and cover, but it was pretty good. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 08 Jun 2021, 22:18
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jd213 wrote: Are there any oscilloscope readings I should take while I have my X9 open?
I'd just check frame 115 with your TV settings noisy as possible. Check the inverse as well a few frames after it (white bar, black background).
If that looks good, just check RF level with scope. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 16 Jun 2021, 19:19
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I don't see any arc suppression in your photos. In the LD realm this is a late-model Pioneer issue.
Start with checking everything that begins with F for continuity and IC/ICP (or anything that looks like a two leg transistor- maybe IC221). |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 11 Jul 2021, 18:09
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| Check all surface mounted capacitors for leaking on the small boards in the pickup assembly. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 01 Aug 2021, 02:10
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| Try forcing playback halfway through a disc with tilt and tracking servos open and see if any video shows up. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 06 Aug 2021, 05:29
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Are we sure that a cap should go there?
Yes- see my photo here: https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?p=123097#p123097
Cap list I wrote down a while ago (double check it):
SKS-1:
C1, C2, C14, C15: 10uf 16v
C13 4.7uf 16v
SKS-2M:
C5, C6: 22uf 6v
AP1-3:
C1, C2, C3: 10uf 16v
C4: 47uf 16v
Also note that I told you wrong cap value for the missing one in photo. It is 10uf 16v. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 08 Aug 2021, 04:16
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It is not uncommon for motors to completely detach from a pickup after the M-Holder shatters. Using very high-gauge wire and a very small amount of solder, it is possible to jump the leads as seen in the attached image. I hope this helps someone  . |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 11 Aug 2021, 21:36
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CLD-3030 and its slightly nicer Japanese revision CLD-99S need to be handled with care.
I have seen these issues:
The black plastic holder of the threaded brass rod that is responsible for moving the pickup will break.
Broken_Holder.jpg
A black plastic knob that tilts the pickup will break.
Broken_Tilt_Pin.jpg
The white plastic gears on the tray roller will break.
Broken_Tray_Roller.jpg
The worst of all is the holder for the threaded brass rod. So far my solution is to use some thicker-gauge wire to bind it to the metal piece that runs adjacent to it, but someone here might have a better idea. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 11 Aug 2021, 22:05
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If you are talking about the white piece of plastic that the pickup moves along, that cracks all the time. It rarely is an issue, and I have found gluing it makes it worse.
Also, I have a CLD-1010 that has other playing issues and I want someone to repair it.
Make a separate post here and maybe one of us can help. No shop is capable of full laserdisc service without having a GGV disc, so if you find a place ask to see their disc when you drop it off. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 11 Aug 2021, 22:19
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Aug 2021, 21:30
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| The shop is wrong. How can optics be bad if it will play a CD? This is a classic "x is bad" statement from shops that can't do laserdisc service. I'm happy to sell one, but they would probably say I sent a broken one after they couldn't readjust unit for new pickup. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 23 Aug 2021, 15:22
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I get remotes a lot with batteries probably left in them from the 90s. A lot of times the batteries will leak or rust. The leakage can be neutralized with vinegar and the rust can either removed by hand or electrolysis.
Unless the leakage is very light, it has usually seeped onto the board of the remote, so it is good to open it up to properly handle it. I find a guitar pick or credit card works well at opening these remotes.
Attached are photos of two recent remotes, with the first being a backlit remote and the second a newer CLD-D504+ remote (these are a little harder to open).
Remote_1.jpg
Remote_2.jpg |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 24 Aug 2021, 16:47
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I have had a CLD-S303 someone traded in that was stuck in standby. I finally got around to looking at it. I checked that the button wasn't jammed, and that power was making it to the FLKY board (board with front display). After that, I turned my attention to the few electrolytic capacitors on the board with my relatively new (to me) ESR meter. It is sometimes hit or miss, but it caught that C204 was bad. 10uF 16V polar. I replaced it and it came right back to life.
This seems to be a more obscure unit. At a glance it looks like a karaoke CLD-S201. I have one of those as well in line for service so I'm looking forward to comparing them side by side.
C204.jpg |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 25 Aug 2021, 01:28
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One step forward, two steps back.
I plugged the unit in and noticed a wavy blue screen. Playback was successful, but I needed to figure out what was causing the underlying noise. I started checking from the composite out and the electrical adjustments (C Sync & Video Level) were way off. I began adjusting them to their proper levels using GGV frame #19,900, and playback abruptly stopped. Weird things were happening with the servos. I went looking for more bad caps and found C902 on main board was same leaky 10uF 16V cap. These do not match the other black capacitors and look like knock offs. Replacing that still resulted in weird electrical issues, so I'll have to keep hunting for more. :|
C902.jpg |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 30 Aug 2021, 17:51
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You need to eject the tray manually by turning the pulley with the belt around it.
Can you show in the picture what I have to move, please? I tried to turn the gears, but it seems it was for the laser: https://yadi.sk/i/N9iH3HZ-e7XgGw
The pulley with rubber belt around it that you labeled "I twisted it". One way raises the mech, the other ejects the tray. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 01 Sep 2021, 00:11
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jefix wrote: I don’t see where the plastic shards came off yet.
Probably here:
Attachment: Clip.jpg |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 07 Sep 2021, 23:19
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This is what rot looks like  :
Attachment: LDVS.jpg |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 07 Sep 2021, 23:21
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Leave tray out for now.
White plastic piece is tray selector switch. Need to set it back to LD position.
U1 could be belt or M-Holder. |
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Thanks list