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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 09 Jul 2022, 00:59
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Both W99 and W136 work. For LX-600 use W99 so you do not have to remove the Sub board. LX-900's Sub board is larger and covers both so it has to be removed to tap either.
Attached is an image of voltage taps on a LX-600. P23201 is a 7 pin connector, with an empty connection on the left that connects to pin 1 GND. Pin 2 is +5V and pin 7 is -5V. P23201 is also on the LX-900 in the same location.
LX-600_Voltage.jpg
As always, a DMM can be used to trace to easier/safer points to connect to. You will need a DMM to check your mod (whether you assembled it or it was pre-assembled) before connecting it to any player. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 09 Jul 2022, 01:11
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If a cap is bad, it would likely be in the video section.
Can you check if this gear is missing any teeth:
Attachment: Y_Gear.jpg |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 09 Jul 2022, 01:24
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| The CLD-D770 does not have the same boards as a CLD-99 and the capacitor values are different. You only need to look at C101, C106, and C201. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 13 Jul 2022, 23:02
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| Unless it is plugged into a gas generator, you should not hear a sound like that. Make sure chassis is not bent and clamp is level. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 13 Jul 2022, 23:15
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Id like to hear from anyone who has an Extron 301 and a Kramer 773 and ask if they could do a comparison between the two....any takers ?
I have both. Extron did not help much at all with a Sony LCD. That TV bit the dust and was replaced by a Sony LED before I bought a VP-773. I can hook the Extron up and see how it compares against the VP-773 on the same display. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 15 Jul 2022, 23:49
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D105 is a SIDAC. No need to remove it if fuse is not blown.
Unplug everything that connects to power supply except AC power cord. Pin 5 of output should be +5VDC which is basically positive leg of C225. If there is voltage, need to check the front board the display is on. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 15 Jul 2022, 23:52
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| Sometimes when a chassis is bent, I can't even tell with my eyes. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 16 Jul 2022, 00:34
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| I ran a quick experiment on the CLD-99S. I checked C5 (sort of arbitrarily chosen component early in secondary) which is an electrolytic capacitor rated for 10V. At 100V, it is just under 10V. At 120V, it is just over 12V, exceeding the voltage rating. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 16 Jul 2022, 04:14
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| With power unplugged check IC211 for continuity. If there is continuity, I'd say there is a fair chance C120 dried up. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 17 Jul 2022, 20:42
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| At the very least, de-solder it and check again. Capacitance mode on a DMM or an ESR meter can provide clearer indication of failure. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 17 Jul 2022, 20:49
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| There is a little bit of room to work on it without removing it. Removing it does make it easier to work with though. The key is to desolder AC in from under the board, not the top. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Jul 2022, 14:07
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| Unless you are planning to regularly get into repairs, you will save money by just testing what you can with current equipment. High-quality replacement capacitors are usually under $1, but shipping is $5+. I usually order the cap I need as well as those that might also be problematic. Maybe tack on C211. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Jul 2022, 14:34
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The international ("General Export") version of CLD-S201.
Very pure output (in regards to digitization and filtering), which might explain your OSD comment. In regards to cheaper construction, the CLD-S104 makes the CLD-S201 look like a tank. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 19 Jul 2022, 15:05
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This just is not very true. "We can't get a part." really means "We thought we knew how to work on laserdisc players, but it turns out we do not.". You could bring a laserdisc player into a highly respected shop in the analog audio realm, but if they do not have the required laserdisc specific equipment to service that player, they can't properly service that player. For Pioneer, a shop must have a GGV disc. For newer Panasonic, CD and LD test discs used for auto-adjustment. Most Sony's require a special cable and a decent amount of nihilism. I'd be curious if they could show you that they actually have any of that.
You can still buy parts from Pioneer, but the vast majority has been bought over the decades. Here is a new pickup for a CLD-1070: http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/part.asp?productNum=VWT1048
If someone asked me to repair a CLD-1070 and it was indeed the pickup, I wouldn't pay $332. I would inform the owner that I must pull from a donor, and if I did not have one I could buy one for much cheaper than that. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 20 Jul 2022, 02:14
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That spot near J224 should not connect. R102 would be a very high value resistor.
Start with the secondary side. On a safety note: power supplies can be dangerous to work on, particularly malfunctioning ones. When in doubt, look up proper safety information.
If there is no voltage before or after D204, the issue should be on the primary side. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 20 Jul 2022, 03:34
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| Voltage is rectified at D101, so everything downstream of that is DC. When diagnosing an issue like this, everything should be unplugged from the power supply except the AC power cord going in. The primary side is high voltage. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 20 Jul 2022, 03:59
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I think the spindles will become unobtainium before the optics. There are a couple of different ways to guess how much a player has been used (if it doesn't show hours), but if you pop the bottom off of a spindle housing, you can see how worn the brushes are. As the brushes wear, it creates a substantial amount of "dust". This might accelerate wear, so I'm not sure if we should be "servicing" the motors as well. There are also three small electrolytic caps in this type of spindle (i.e. CLD-D503/D703/D704/79/99).
Much like the brushes, we have auction sites wearing away our hobby. I think it will all end with optics though. Unless you have something like an LD-S2, Hi-Vision player, etc, it is easier to find a replacement than to actually replace it. If a shop can't figure out how to get a replacement, you sure as hell don't want them actually replacing it. These can't be hot-swapped like a gear or tray. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 25 Jul 2022, 14:52
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drhoeh wrote: Also I removed the 1uf capacitor out C120 and tested it. I got .91uf, are the tolerances that specific?
No. Vast majority +-20%
D101 should not be outputting 0VDC. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 05 Aug 2022, 06:03
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| I think it is still a two step process until it is added to ld-decode. There is FPGA code in staffanu's repo which opens the door to new AC-3 RF demodulators or modding players to output the demodulated signal. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 05 Aug 2022, 06:07
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| There can be electrical faults where the focus coils will burn up. You need to determine if the pickup is toast, or if something has failed in the focus path. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 07 Aug 2022, 03:50
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I bought a broken MDP-800 yesterday. The seller said there was no audio. I opened it up and was greeted with the following:
MDP-800_1.jpg
MDP-800_2.jpeg
MDP-800_3.jpeg
MDP-800_4.jpeg
The following caps were leaking:
Servo section: C299, C428, C430 47uF (I have seen these leak in a MDP-600 as well)
Audio section: C507 47uF
Power section: C707 100uF
Power supply: C31 C35 100uF
All of these capacitors were 35V.
After cleaning up all the leakage and replacing these, there was still no audio. +8VDC to audio section was somewhere around +2VDC. I replaced the +8V regulator in the power supply and was relieved to hear audio.
On to the adjustments now (once I find wherever my MDP adjustment cable is hiding). Unless the mechanical adjustments have drifted, it shouldn't take long since the only servo adjustments available are tilt balance for A and B. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 11 Aug 2022, 04:20
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Here is how I recently added AC-3 RF:
Attachment: CLD-1010_Taps.jpeg
The board is labeled. From top to bottom: +5, -5, GND, A RF.
Here is the photo of the top of the ADEM board:
Attachment: CLD-1010_ADEM.jpeg |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 19 Aug 2022, 14:15
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Yep -- focus and tracking are auto adjusted. Great idea in 1993. Terrible in 2022. The test CD used in this adjustment pops up every now and then, but the test LD I have never seen (and I even have the Sony and Yamaha 8" test discs).
Someone brought me a LX-900 with similar issue. Can't remember if DTS specifically but digital out would dropout every now and then. Was hard to reproduce -- seemed to show up more often right after several rapid chapter seeks. Rail grease had become like dry powder. I re-greased everything. VCXO in audio section was ever so slightly off, so I tweaked that.
I've got a LX-600 I've been meaning to run the auto adjust on with a Pioneer disc for science. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 30 Aug 2022, 03:23
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Is that PCB burn-in where the AC cord comes in?
Check all secondary legs for voltage. If there is none, check primary legs indicated by the two arrows. The other legs should not be connected. If you have voltage there, unplug it and check continuity from the arrow on the right in the photo to the leg next to it with no solder mask. That should show continuity. If it does not, check the additional leg on the end.
If there is no continuity to one of the legs with no solder mask and there is primary voltage with no secondary, I'd assume the thermal fuse has melted. The safest check for that is to remove the transformer and jump the leg and see if you get secondary voltage. If so, you need to then find out why the fuse melted in the first place. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 03 Sep 2022, 00:42
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This is applicable to the CLD-2850: [CLD-3090][CLD-D701][CLD-D702] Centering
Before adjusting centering, check if gently tilting the mech a slight amount forward or backwards helps while it is trying to read the disc. |
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Thanks list