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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 27 Sep 2021, 15:38
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Ive checked and both CLD-2090/2290 and the CLD-2590K players do use the same spindle VXM1046 ...for ref seems like a substitute is currently available from PacParts being VXA2107
Yeah this is just going of some old notes that may or may not be applicable. If anything, if you can confirm the spindle is defective, I would try pulling it and taking a look inside before ordering a new one (or better yet a donor unit to pull one from). It could be something else. If eye pattern is good, you'll need take a look at the reference waveforms in the SM that could be related to EFM/DA. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 28 Sep 2021, 01:28
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necronomikoi wrote: Do you have an image of a tilt cam in a comparable player just so I know exactly what to look for?
Attachment: Tilt_Cam.jpg |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 28 Sep 2021, 15:07
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The problem arose in the last chapter. A segment of the video is looped. Approximately 10-20 seconds. Could it be due to a dirty disc? I also noticed that the disc is not perfectly flat, but all discs seem to be like that. I also noticed that the disc has several longitudinal scratches towards the edge. The scratches weren't deep, but maybe that could have affected?
This technology is surprisingly tough. Light fingerprints and scratches don't matter much other than maybe a split second dropout on screen. Warp is much worse. No laserdisc is perfectly flat, so the focus servo is there to keep the distance between lens and disc constant. If you lay the disc flat and there is any part not touching whatever you are laying it on, it is warped.
The issue you are describing is more likely Side B centering (especially since the unit was knocked hard enough to break Side A rail). Black screw in attached image is locking screw. White "screw" is the actual adjustment. If you have an oscilloscope: put in test mode, start Side B playback, turn tilt on, tracking off, observe tracking error waveform. Adjust until it is like a fat, even log. If no scope, disregard all of the previous sentence and trial and error where it was skipping. When done, apply some sort of locking compound ( not glue ). Cheap fingernail polish works great.
I rubbed the disc and started checking side A. Again I saw the colored stripes on the fifth chapter.
Does pressing down ever so slightly ( do not crash the lens into the disc ) on the back of the mech make them go away?
Any ideas on how to clean these soft pads? Perhaps the coasters should be removed altogether?
I wouldn't worry about it. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 29 Sep 2021, 00:31
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this is why the player has adjustments for this
Is there a guide? I won't do this now, just curious.
Yes, the service manual will cover it.
Unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope. I'll try to ask my friends. Only I did not understand where I should connect it.
Tracking error.
Does pressing down ever so slightly (do not crash the lens into the disc) on the back of the mech make them go away?
I will try. Do you mean push down on the rails? I didn't quite get it.
The back of the mechanism that sticks out of the back of the unit.
All the available belts sold on eBay do not list R7G in the list of compatible models, so which would be the closest? The "VEB1184?"
Should work.
I do hope people aren't going to buy these and cannibalize them, these are really nice players and don't deserve this type of abuse.
Also seconding this.
I hope that second machine can be fixed with a simple belt swap, then you can adopt that as your player and put the broken one in the proverbial backburner.
Yeah after the rail snaps off like this, it is very difficult to repair. The rail attaches to the plastic of the mechanism base, so just about the entire mechanism needs to be swapped. On the other hand, CLD-R7G shares same mechanism with a ton of cheap players. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 29 Sep 2021, 00:34
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meant2bkept wrote: The tray closes, the clamp shuts on the disc, but the disc does not spin and a mechanical whine is heard.
I can't tell if it is a broken M-Holder or loading isn't completing. Sounds like the former. Any error codes displayed on front of unit? Something like U1 or E3? |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 29 Sep 2021, 00:42
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d770 wrote: it has an inordinant amount of play in the shaft both side to side and up and down movement!
There is a little up and down, but shouldn't be any side to side. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 29 Sep 2021, 04:36
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rein-o wrote: Yes and I would much rather see people picking up 503s or whatever other player you can cannibalize than doing it to the R7Gs.
For US, CLD-D504/CLD-D505 good candidates. EU CLD-D515. More is shared across them than not. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 01 Oct 2021, 02:01
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Yeah CLD-3070 is probably my favorite layout. Loading assembly is a nightmare, but I like how the boards fold out.
Mod finished. I installed a dummy RF jack from a junk VCR and hot glued just the plastic CH3/4 switch from it for the channel select port (mainly so dust doesn't get in over time). AC-3RF out can be snaked through a hole at the very back down to where the RF modulator once was. There is a hole on the cross support it can be zip tied too as well. Someone will be getting a nice player! |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 01 Oct 2021, 02:19
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Volcano (1997) [0603984]
I suppose it is just worth watching it for Tommy Lee jackhammering and the closeup shots of some velcro shoes melting. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 01 Oct 2021, 15:11
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Thanks!
ldfan wrote: BTW…. The AC3 board doesn’t look familiar to me. Is this a surface mount design you created on your own?
New board from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255150584268
He is planning on selling assembled ones in the future. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 02 Oct 2021, 00:32
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 02 Oct 2021, 18:31
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 12 Oct 2021, 14:17
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I own a Yamaha CDV-W901 laserdisc player (which is a Pioneer clone, possibly Pioneer CLD-D604).
It is a CLD-D504 + optical out. VWR1256 would be the US power supply, with VWR1268 being international. What voltage does it say on the notch on back of player? Just curious if someone swapped this out themselves or if Yamaha made an international version.
Remove the power supply if you can. VWR1256 can come out without de-soldering, not sure about VWR1268. Check IC1 and IC2 for continuity. They are usually denoted on bottom with white rectangle around them. If those are good, check F1 through F6. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 12 Oct 2021, 15:56
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My worry / question is, since my unit's standby light is lit when plugged in, maybe some power is getting to the unti so any tests I do will be come back as "OK" or maybe some fuses/diodes (etc) are preventing the unit from "turning on" but allow the standby light to be lit.
It won't affect any fuse reading. The semi-functional state was why I said check IC1 & 2 first. They are ICPs and can be tested exactly like fuses but look like transistors with only two legs.
Unplug the unit before opening the unit and keep it unplugged while checking the fuses and ICPs. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 13 Oct 2021, 23:49
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| It should all be nicely labeled on the bottom. You can see F3, F4, F5, IC2 in the attached image. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 14 Oct 2021, 02:47
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This issue also sounds similar to the one we discussed privately regarding my PSLD43. Any chance it could be the voltage issue on the Mecha IC?
Interesting consideration, but I only saw that note on CLD-x090s. CLD-2090 SM shows PD0081B1 with CAV on pin 43. CLD-52 is CLD-D501 based and has PD0123A1 with CAV moved to 41.
My description of "silver plate" earlier was a bit rough, so here is a photo. The metal piece with the three holes in it. It should not turn freely of the piece it is screwed into. There is a rubber pad under it but it is hard to clean without unscrewing it. That plastic that screw goes into is seriously like Play-Doh. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 14 Oct 2021, 03:15
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| Assuming all the other settings are correct: If you have neither analog or digital audio when toggling the audio mode button on the player (while playing a LD that has both analog and digital audio), I'd try it with another TV unless you know that TV's RCA inputs are fine with a VCR/older game console/etc. I've had an older LED TV's analog audio fail and I have a LCD with it almost going out. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 14 Oct 2021, 03:28
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| It looks pretty cool, but I'd only go for it if it is a really good price. More importantly, any working local player will beat any shipped player. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 15 Oct 2021, 06:44
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Probably stands for something like Line and Neutral.
To check continuity, you just need to touch one lead (either lead- order doesn't matter) of your multimeter to one of the two solder joints of the fuse/ICP and then other lead to the other. Basically each rectangular box with a "~" symbol in it. i.e. in the attached image you'd check for a beep across the two solder joints in the box to the left of "IC2", etc. Also make sure you are checking IC1/IC2 not C1/C2. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 15 Oct 2021, 08:16
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I repaired one player with one blown ICP where the focus was not bouncing up and down like that but was slowly increasing.
I have the Mitsubishi equivalent of this player where it might have been doing exact same thing as you were describing. I think it had a cracked FLKY board and severed leads to the carriage motor next to the lens and on top of all that someone had been in it tinkering so I wrote it off as a parts unit. I'll see if I can dig it back out and provide more info. In the meantime, (with the unit unplugged) I'd make sure all cables are properly seated, nothing is torn/cracked etc and then look at CN101 1-4 on FLKY, but you have to be careful you don't touch any of them together while measuring. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 20 Oct 2021, 00:02
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 20 Oct 2021, 00:27
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How would I remove this ribbon cable from FLKY ASSY ? Just gently pull it out ?
When measuring CN101 (1-4) on the ribbon cable - I'm guessing I'll be using the multimeter with positive and negative on either end (just like testing the fuses) ?
Cable pulls straight out, but leave it in.
For this, instead of checking continuity you need to check voltage. The contact points on FLKY are small, but it is imperative you don't short anything while measuring.
I found my unit with similar issue- it was indeed missing a chunk from the FKLY. I'll have to dive in further to it later this week. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 20 Oct 2021, 14:56
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kris wrote: Pleasantly surprised PQ wise .
I was as well. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 20 Oct 2021, 15:22
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So my point question is this. Would any issue in the FLKY ASSY board be after a point where the signal from the power button and the signal from the Play / Open buttons meet ?
It could be before or after. Some of these buttons can also function as power buttons- a convenience feature.
I watched the video, but that is a single pulse. You were observing it repeating, correct? I've seen both happen.
Another thing to try is unplug the smaller, 7 pin cable that runs to the front from main board and see if anything changes. Anytime you unplug/plug a cable, the unit needs to be unplugged from wall/power strip. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 21 Oct 2021, 04:38
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Thanks for sharing that Kurtis. Definitely a weird failure.
I think that would be IC804 (LA6510) in FTS section of main board in the attached image. Tilt error comes in to it on pin 7, and tilt motor out of pin 9.
Attachment: CLD-97_TiltDrive.jpg |
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Thanks list