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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 21 Oct 2021, 05:10
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| To me it really seems like something is awry on the FLKY board. This part is more vulnerable during rough handling/shipping. Cracks, stuck buttons, etc. If voltages inbound are sane, I'd go ahead and unplug everything going to the front panel and unscrew the boards there to take a look at the other sides. It looks like there are four in there. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 26 Oct 2021, 03:59
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rhoran wrote: I don't own an oscilloscope and am a novice at electronics.
It seems you have something in common with a lot of the shops that claim they can do LD Service. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 26 Oct 2021, 04:08
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Could very well just boil down to a capacitor issue, etc.
Possible case here could be you attempting to repeatedly turn it on, the unit getting warmer and capacitor ESR lowering, etc. Ton of different explanations though- this is just an example. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 26 Oct 2021, 04:11
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| Cheers to Kurtis. His memory seems fine! |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 27 Oct 2021, 02:04
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| Pin 65 was working for me on ADP-303 direct. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 27 Oct 2021, 02:29
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The best thing to do would be buy a GGV disc and check frames 115, 130, 23005, 23020. If those are clean, your player is not picking up noise from the adjacent frames. One side might be better than the other, and if so you can exclusively use that side. To add the RF tap, you technically don't have to solder anything. Someone could send you a cable and it plugs right in.
Outside of this rough check, you can capture and take a look at SNR across the disc with ld-analyse. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 16 Nov 2021, 15:08
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So, it's as you say - some ESR levels in the capacitors ( on the power-board ? ).
Some better info here: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/350796/do-bad-capacitors-work-less-in-the-cold
Next the step would be to: get an ESR meter, check the capacitors, find out which ones are causing this issue, remove them and solder in new ones.
I don't have an ESR meter, nor do I know how to solder -- have watched a few youtube videos - :) or take it to an electrician who could hopefully fix it.
Probably cheaper to just do a blind recap of power board. I'd order ones for FLKY too in the event power supply recap doesn't resolve it.
It isn't too bad- the most time consuming part is measuring existing capacitors and noting their values for ordering. You have to ensure you orient them the right way (like batteries) and avoid damaging board while removing them (I use solder sucker, some use braid). |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 02 Dec 2021, 21:32
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| No suppression on this one. SM says 110-127V or 220-240V. I'm thinking capacitor issue. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 02 Dec 2021, 21:39
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| This is a significant moment in LD history. Fantastic staffanu! |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 02 Dec 2021, 21:40
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Composite.  |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 06 Dec 2021, 22:26
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Does Pioneer have this issue with their players or is something wrong my LX-H670? Or this is the major difference between a high end player vs mid end player.
No.
If you have playback issues like that, your player needs servicing. The problem is I don't know of anyone left that can do Panasonic. LX-900 tracking and focus gain are adjusted automatically using a special disc which is probably rarer than Sony's. I'm not sure if tracking and focus is done the same way for the LX-H670 since I've never even seen a service manual for it. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 23 Dec 2021, 22:07
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jefflang wrote: When you say, "step through all the adjustments", is that any that have to do with Side A centering?
All of the mechanical adjustments, 1 through 13. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 27 Dec 2021, 02:00
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| Your M-Holder is probably broken. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 27 Dec 2021, 02:25
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jefflang wrote: So far it does not look like I need to tweak anything or go through numerous adjustments.
I have never been able to replace this mechanism without at least some adjustments to cleanup noise or playback. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 05 Jan 2022, 15:05
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They indeed sever a lot, but a lot more know how to solder than readjust a LD player. These M-Holder models aren't as picky as the older models, but I doubt the person doing the work has a test disc to fine tune adjustments after complete swap.
I wasn't too good with scratching away, so I just started jumping the connections as seen here: https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9945 |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 07 Jan 2022, 07:35
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 07 Jan 2022, 07:55
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Elite Entertainment should know how many Nightmare on Elm Street 2 and Nightmare on Elm Street 3 laserdiscs they produced. I don't know if they'll tell anyone.
No harm in reaching out either way. I blindly contacted someone who was involved with the four US squeeze LDs and to my surprise I got a response.
In regards to overall numbers, I have some for some of the highest selling titles (with sources) here: https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=9015
Outside of that, you can speculate via mint marks. B6021031 on Nightmare on Elm Street 2, A: Freddy's Revenge (1985) [EE3562] makes me believe at least 1031 were pressed on June 2nd, 1996. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 13 Jan 2022, 01:00
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M-V7057 was your edit, but CLD-870 should be LD-870.
CLK-V90 was written verbatim in Popular Mechanics, July 1992 Page 45 but it might have been a typo of CLK-V900.
CLD-3030 I can't find my source for, but $1,300 was probably MSRP with an advertised price being $900. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Jan 2022, 03:28
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I haven't had time to attempt this yet, but I wanted to post this so it doesn't become lost.
Parts:
R895 1kohm 100mw
R896 1.5kohm 100mw
C895 100uf 10v electrolytic (polar)
C896 0.1uf 25v ceramic
JA8 TX178 (if my notes are correct)
R895, R896, C896 are surface mount. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Jan 2022, 14:54
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The above is actually from the LA-2500 SM. The CLD-D703 and CLD-D704 use the same IC, but R895 is 220ohm and C895 is 220uf. They add a 1kohm resistor (R898) between IC and R895 and a 100uH inductor to +5V. I assume these changes are due to coax also feeding from pin 43.
Either way, coax digital with or without mod board would be easier to add since you don't have to cut a square hole + screw hole for transmitter. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 23 Jan 2022, 21:40
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Congrats all around!
I bought a STR-DA90ES locally when I saw it had AC-3 RF. I opened it up and cleaned it and then gave it as a gift to a relative. It has been running strong for two years with no issues. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 11 Feb 2022, 02:02
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Interesting question. I don't know, but the safe option is to remove it.
Heat is my main concern, but the amount of heat a disc will take while player is "powered off" will vary player by player.
The majority of my watching these days is right before I go to sleep. If it is a cheap disc, I'll leave it in until morning. Otherwise I remove it. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 16 Feb 2022, 16:18
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Great post Kurtis.
It also bothers me how people disregard the LD-S2.
This was my grail, and I lucked up finding one for sale about 30 minutes away a few years ago.
I agree the CLD-97 is the lowest noise dual sided player but they are expensive if you find a good working one.
I think the CLD-95 and even CLD-3080 are excellent choices for far cheaper for those going for a CLD-97 "analog" picture. This is with price strictly in mind. A CLD-95 is about half the cost of a CLD-97.
Just don't get caught up in the generation of the 3D adaptive filter
Agreed. Focusing on the cleanest composite signal possible will allow for the most flexibility as technology advances.
There is not an absolute answer here, some prefer the sharper picture which leans toward certain models and other prefer the smooth background without the digitized look. So you'll get lots of different answers. You need to decide the type of picture you prefer.
So true.
I wonder if I wouldn't be better served by buying a DVDO iScan VP50 Pro now regardless of what player I buy in the future????????????????
Go for a Kramer: https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=10036 |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 16 Feb 2022, 16:28
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Heads up, it is a nightmare to clean and regrease the loading assembly on these so as ldfan said go for the easy to get places (where there is visible orange goop) before attempting further disassembly. The problem is that the most important spots require advanced disassembly to get to.
I'm not positive, but that sound is probably the red toothed loading belt slipping due to the loading gears not being able to easily turn on their posts due to orange goop. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 17 Feb 2022, 04:12
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| Put a LD in. Power off, short TP302 to ground and power on and remove short. Press play on front of player and see if spindle reaches full speed. Don't try any of this if you aren't comfortable with it because you can brick your player. Better instructions can be found on pages 62 and 63 of service manual. |
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Thanks list