Not sure. There has been a rebound in the cassette world though. I repair and sell them to hipsters to fund my LD habit. Anything 3 head and/or Dolby S sells for a good amount.
I use both a LED and CRT when making adjustments (this actually makes excellent use of both composite connectors on players that have two). Settings are always set to display the most noise possible (sharpness all the way up, etc).
In the photo, you can see crosstalk on both sides of the bar. It is asymmetrical.
I first adjusted VR401 (Tilt balance) on the CNNB board to make the crosstalk symmetrical and then VR2 (Focus balance) on the FTSB board to dial out as much of the crosstalk as possible. It is much better, but not perfect. I could probably make it as close to perfect as possible by adjusting the tangential angle, but if that is touched centering for both sides needs to be readjusted as well as tangential for Side B.
Restoration of CLD-3070 Special Roach Edition is complete.
Thank you Edwin. The attachment you posted matches the two letter variations in the mint marks I posted earlier. That would mean Cool World (1992) [LV 32356-WS] was manufactured from at least March 1993 to November 1993. Additionally, Clear and Present Danger (1994) [LV 32463-2WS] from at least December 1994 to April 1995.
I have been discussing manufacturing with a former Technidisc employee (I will post on this once I have all of it organized). It seems their process was based on Pioneer's, and Technidisc would store "metal" discs (I believe these would be the mothers) in special containers in a library for later runs. Pioneer might have done the same, allowing for new pressings months later without having to create a new master.
I'm not sure you can find someone even in NYC that is worth paying for LD service.
This unit has dark orange, syrup-like grease slathered all over inside it. The loading mechanism is an absolute nightmare.
You can take the top off, unscrew the two screws (four total) on each of the two cross supports that hold the top boards and prop them up. Unscrew the two screws near the front that keep the tray from sliding all the way out. Remove the tray.
Now normally, you would want to do a full disassembly and cleaning to resolve this properly, but this loading section so awful I would clean off the orange goop you can see without disassembly and replace it with white lithium grease or Molykote EM-30L (I just switched to this grease and really like it). With that portioned greased, either eject or load (opposite of whatever it just was) and then clean and grease again as you will notice different portions are now accessible.
Finally, these do use the red belts but my CLD-3070's is noticeably too loose. Under where the tray usually is, you will see a black plastic sheet held in by a few back plastic fasteners. These pull directly up if you slide a small flathead under them. Under need the plastic sheet, you will see the red toothed loading belt. Press eject/load and make sure it isn't slipping.
They are all compatible with each other, but you want the black VNL1779. Swap the gears too since they improved those as well.
If anyone has a broken M-holder, preferably the CLD-D604 compatible one, PM me. I have some stuff I’d like to try, no promises. I have one I found on my workbench but can't find the pins. I should be getting an epsilon turn parts unit in this week where I'm sure the M-Holder is wrecked. Will PM once I pull it.
Check if that top bar is bent. Something is bent somewhere or the top parts aren’t installed correctly.
Unscrew the four screws holding the clamper. Make sure it is perfectly flat. Make sure the back of the chassis is not bowed. When I see bending problems like this, it is very hard to tell by just looking at it.
If that all looks good, feel under the clamper where it meets the spindle to see if it is flat and moves ok. Maybe try disassembling and reassembling it. You can reference the CLD-A100 SM.
PQ is average+, not great. DVL-91 S-Video did surprise me a little though.
Pros: Fully loaded with features Fast side change
Cons: Sketchy power supply Side B alignment It is a DVD player that also happens to play LD
For the right price I would not hesitate to pick one up (well I guess this can be said for all players when it comes to me). Watch first 3 minutes of Side B before you pay. M-Holders in them alone are worth about $100.
Isn't the Forum's updated post more comprehensive (with links to manuals)?
:arrow: https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=266 Didn't know that existed. :thumbup:
I got wrecked on a Casa Nova because I did not realize the AC-3 RF was optional. They will still have AC-3 RF connectors either way, but the board won't be mounted on the inside. :oops:
Yeah topic is old, but since it isn't solved I thought it would be good to keep things centralized.
Unit was seized up due to old grease. After that the spindle grip needed some Shoe Goo. Loading belt was complete bad, so I finally got to it. It is rather large for a LD player. I did not have a replacement, so I scrubbed it and cleaned the path, but I will need to get back down to it and measure it (I should have the first time :()
Some sort of noise going on in the video. Going to continue chipping away at the rest of the glue and after that look at the huge power caps.
yep. I got got. I was smart enough to make sure there were no passwords set on the unit at least. In the photo you'll see the headers on which the board would sit. I reached out to Theta in the surprise event they would have one, but they do not.
Vast majority of people I sell to are either completely new to LD or are getting back into it. I never really ask them why, but I'm just glad there is enough demand to make rebuilding/refurbishing/servicing worthwhile since that is what I enjoy the most.
Don't ship any of the CLD's with M-Holders. Remove Elite side panels. Ensure unit is fully powered off before pulling the plug. Double box if you can.
When I bought my CLD-99 from Duncan forever ago he shipped it double boxed with peanuts between the outer and inner box. Side panels were wrapped in felt and cellophaned together. Other than that I have only had units I have bought for parts or repair shipped to me.
Biggest issue with players in transit is plastic breaking internally and/or the units getting rattled or knocked out of alignment. The latter was problematic even in the 90s when Pioneer techs shipped units.
Should have no issues with mechanical adjustments, but I would be more concerned about heat.
People buy the CLD-R7G for the S-Video, not the composite. It has one of the best combfilters ever put inside a LD player. Composite signal can be cleaned up by bypassing recombination/digital memory/etc but this is not the player for that.
You can see if the CLD-D515 or CLD-D925 power supply might work.
Thanks list
yep. I got got. I was smart enough to make sure there were no passwords set on the unit at least. In the photo you'll see the headers on which the board would sit. I reached out to Theta in the surprise event they would have one, but they do not.
