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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 10 Jan 2021, 20:09
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| I like the way the video looks and the big shiny discs. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 10 Jan 2021, 20:10
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pokefraker wrote: Always nice to know someone is watching my s****y uploads. 
I watch them and enjoy them. Thank you for continuing to take the time to do this. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 11 Jan 2021, 20:00
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I'd say the majority of people I sell players to are new to the format. I do not ship.
I welcome the new people, but this reckless shipping needs to stop. Even if your unit arrives "working", what wear and tear has it endured from shipping that you are not aware of? Small cracks in plastic, etc. Was it knocked out of alignment just enough so that it is 80% of the picture quality that it was before shipping? At the very least if you are going to ship something, buy a refurbished unit from Kurtis since knows how to ship these. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 11 Jan 2021, 21:17
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If lil old me located in Kansas can source 4 players I'd say it is pretty much not necessary to ship.
Pretty much this. That is the number one thing I hear, something along the lines of "There aren't any players here." I think people are just impatient and need a player "right now!" for some reason. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 12 Jan 2021, 18:20
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| There is a VNL-1700 for sale on eBay for 60 euro. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 13 Jan 2021, 04:47
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I always open up players before I power them on and do an initial cleaning. After I pulled up the top right VSOP board, a bunch of little roach particles fell. Next I see live roaches in the unit! I quickly grabbed my contact cleaner and nuked all the ones I could safely target. This unit has some problems with the front panel, so I had to disassemble it. Roaches were even in the front fold-down drawer between the faceplate and board!
Now if only I owned Creepshow (1982) [11306] . It would be a fitting first spin. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 14 Jan 2021, 20:16
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Weclome.
Picture-jitter on CAV with modern TVs is common. The Side B skipping (at the start) is also common for DVLs.
Only thing I would recommend is Video Essentials LD (make sure it includes the blue filter). Maybe an AC-3 RF demodulator if you want to do a 5.1 setup.
If you want to get a Karaoke player, I would probably go with a cheaper unit than a DVL-V.
As for the hardware database, it is currently under construction. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 14 Jan 2021, 22:44
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Didn't know about that with DVL's
Yeah I had to adjust side B tangential and centering on probably 4-5 DVLs. Kurtis has also said the tracks sometimes suffer from imperfections.
I would not go near these adjustments though unless you have a test disc and oscilloscope. Side B centering is so fine that even removing my flathead causes the envelope to change. I have to recheck after I tighten the locking screw back before I lock it in place with nail polish. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 15 Jan 2021, 22:21
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| Overall, I'm much more concerned about warp than rot. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 16 Jan 2021, 01:05
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Yeah getting to the cable is not going to be fun...
I had to pull the power supply on a CLD-92 once and that was tedious but this will be worse. I should probably at least make a guide while I'm at it. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 17 Jan 2021, 19:13
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What happens visually with warped discs?
Horizontal bands of visual distortion. Skipping as well if its severe enough.
This person captured it well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QoVsOWo0ITU
I just placed the disc down on a clean counter and I still couldn't get any clear indication that it's warped. :?
Sometimes it is really hard to tell. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 20 Jan 2021, 20:41
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Press eject on the player so it ejects fully. Pull the power.
Turn the gear in the photo of the first post (with the blue dot) towards the back of the player until it can't be turned further. Now you need to turn it the other way just a tad. With the power still off try reinserting tray all the way back to see if it lined up right. If not pull it back out and repeat until you find the right position. Some times I get it on the first try and sometimes it takes several. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 21 Jan 2021, 22:12
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I'm gonna check with Daniel if he has a player for testing... any advice on the model? I guess the point is not having the best composite to begin with to see how much it can improve the output?
LD-V2000, LD-V2200, CLD-V2400, LD-870, CLD-980, CLD-1070, CLD-1080 come to mind. Any noisy player without recombined composite.
What kind of tests/patterns/movies should we consider the bar?
Video Essentials (1996) [ID3487ISF] for patterns.
Goldeneye: Special Edition (1995) [ML105544] for movie.
Ideally you also want to make sure the player you are testing on has no crosstalk issues so I'd throw Pioneer LaserDisc Reference Disc (2001) [GGV1069] into the mix as well. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 22 Jan 2021, 01:27
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I think about this a lot. If my player developed a fault that couldn't be addressed with basic maintenance like re-greasing the rails or replacing the belts, I'd be SOL.
I can do the advanced maintenance and servicing, but it still does not alleviate my concern over something like my LD-S2's pickup failing. It is all a parts game now. You can learn how to service LD players, but there is nothing to do if you can't get the part. Even if someone was selling a NOS LD-S2 pickup for $300 or so, you have the pressure of adjusting grating while making sure not to brick it. I probably have 20 LD players here at the moment. Six are keepers and the rest are in various states of disrepair- majority strictly as donors and about three on the "todo" list so other people can enjoy them. And out of all that I have only one spare VNL1779 M-Holder available. Zero spare parts for my LD-S2 except for maybe the spindle grip.
Then on the flip-side of this, you can see posts of people (not here) where they have something like a loading belt issue on a player and then completely destroy the unit in the process of trying to replace it. No telling if they just throw the rest in the trash. That brings the question: What happens to all the eBay returns that aren't relisted? |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 22 Jan 2021, 03:22
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The LD-V2200 is my main player for testing this kind of thing.
It is my beater unit! Sharp drop off on build quality from the LD-V2200 to the CLD-V2400.
I get some players composite output is actually the result of digital processing and then a conversion again to analog...is such signal still improvable via an external comb filter?
Yes
I guess my point is, for those players with recombined output, in order to get the best output, would that be necessary to somehow tap the signal before the digital processing and then feed that to the external filter?
If you are talking about just general playback-wise, yes if you have the skillset to do so. Not necessary for testing external filtering though.
silly question, are the UK/European version of those models called differently?
I don't think so for the V series listed. Those were models sold to US schools.
A few EU models:
CLD-1200, CLD-1450, CLD-1500, CLD-1600
Need to double check in the schematics. I think all are available here. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 23 Jan 2021, 00:27
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I think it would be a step up, but I have only experimented with this on a CLD-V2600 so far. Couldn't get it working perfectly, but it did result in better picture quality. The best thing to do if you don't want recombined composite though would be to buy a player that doesn't have it.
I wonder if part/all of the required logic could be implement in the FPGA
I think it would be more of a video buffer that would need to be on the board that feeds the FPGA, but I'm not very knowledgable when it comes to stuff like this. It might be better to just leave all of this out of the FPGA side to reduce complexity.
Either way, figuring out how and where to properly bypass digital memory, Y/C separation, etc in the player is the hard part. Once that is written up, it wouldn't be hard for others with good soldering skills to follow. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 23 Jan 2021, 22:03
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 24 Jan 2021, 01:02
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| The above is mostly covered already by the Domesday Duplicator and ld-decode projects. It just isn't realtime. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 24 Jan 2021, 19:00
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Also, I have never seen pre-production photos of it so I would assume they thought about it but it never went that far.
Yeah I feel there would be at least one photo circulating around if this actually came to fruition.
It would have to be a full overhaul of the video section of a LD-W1 if they used that. I do believe MSB would be capable of that. I have seen a DTS mod on a preamp and progressive DVD mod they did and it is absolutely wild. I think MSB had better engineers than the OEM. The stacking of two Panasonics was probably the design though.
There are a couple of ways of doing this with Pioneer industrial decks but a clever boy could probably even do it with the “control” ports in the rear of consumer machines. It could just be two DVL-90s.
Interesting idea! |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 24 Jan 2021, 19:10
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 24 Jan 2021, 23:09
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If the CD skips or won't play, check tangential and centering first. It is covered in that SM, but here is a little better description (going off memory so double-check me):
Tangential (highly recommend an analog scope for this, but you might can get by with persistence mode on a digital one):
Remove tray from unit. Attach scope probe to pin 3 (RF). Set scope to 20mv/1us AC, 10x probe. Adjust until eye pattern is clear and maximum. Put 8" LD in, go to side B frame #115 and do the same. You really need a GGV disc for this, but can probably get by with an 8". With a GGV you can look at the bar pattern on the screen and adjust until its clean.
Centering:
Put the player into test mode. Remove tray from unit. Attach scope probe to pin 9 (Tracking Error). Set scope to 50mv/10ms DC, 10x probe. Put in a CD. Move the pickup to the S-IN position. Start playback. Tilt servo needs to be on, tracking needs to be off. Turn Side A centering screw with a large flathead until the amplitude is maximum. Take out the CD and put in a 8" LD. Start side B playback with tilt servo on, tracking off. Unscrew the black locking screw on the top plate. Using a flathead adjust the white centering screw until amplitude is maximum. Tighten the black screw back.
If the locking compound has not been broken on the tangential adjustment points and you don't have a GGV disc, I wouldn't touch it.
Don't put locking compound (I use cheap fingernail polish) on anything until you have watched a few discs and everything looks good.
With the E error, it might not even be adjustment related but I thought I would post the above just as an FYI. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021, 01:51
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carrboroman wrote: I sourced a working LD-V2200, if it will arrive in one piece
It should. Very dense unit. It will need all the help it can get from external processing .
On the plus side I see the SM was recently uploaded in color. Many thanks to whoever took the time to do this. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021, 05:27
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pokefraker wrote: Yeah one of my videos went viral yesterday
Excellent! |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021, 18:41
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As far as I understand, LD does not use color under.
For the VHS project we are also replacing all the electronics and are processing the head signal directly to produce better image quality.
For LD we have: https://www.domesday86.com/?page_id=978
It is not realtime though. RF captures are decoded via https://github.com/happycube/ld-decode |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 27 Jan 2021, 00:49
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| Random side fact: DVLs respond to CLD remotes when in test mode. |
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Thanks list