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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Apr 2022, 01:03
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Member says, “I just can’t find a player locally”.
I like when they say this in a reasonably large city.
Also, I think "I just can’t find a player locally." is code for "For some reason I MUST immediately purchase my first laserdisc player two decades after it was sunset and I can not wait another year."
This might explain why your LX-H670 has its playback issues (probably knocked its alignment off).
+1
Even if a player arrives in "good enough" working condition, it could have tons of cracked plastic on the inside. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Apr 2022, 01:42
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This is used in a ton of models: CLD-D406, CLD-D504+, CLD-D604+, CLD-59, CLD-R7G, CLD-D925 and many more.
I had to tear one of these down to swap "Tilt Base (Under)" VNL1670. What frequently happens is the plastic that holds the back end of Side A rail will snap off the base. I never can get it glued back correctly (it is probably possible, but I'm not good with stuff like that). I ran out of functioning mechs to just swap in, so I had to just replace VNL1670 in the player I was repairing. This assumes you have already removed the mech via the four screws holding it to the chassis. Additionally you will need an oscilloscope to properly step through the adjustments after reassembly. If you do not have one, take a photo of Side A centering adjustment before attempting this.
Disconnect switchboard wiring from back right of side turn.
TB1.jpeg
Unscrew the two screws holding in the CD Plate and disconnect the spring.
TB2.jpeg
Disconnect the black spring and then the silver spring. Unscrew single screw holding in the switchboard and carefully bend back the plastic hooks holding it in.
TB3.jpeg
Disconnect this third spring. Below it, the white tilt cam must be turned via pulley with loading belt around it so that cam is flat against the black plastic piece. (The tilt cam in the photo needs to be turned to the right.)
TB4.jpeg
Unwind switchboard wiring and turn Side A centering "screw" so that the D shape has its curve side facing outwards. (Opposite as shown in photo.)
TB5.jpeg
The upper tilt base should now slide over so it can be lifted up. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 Apr 2022, 14:38
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So I'll give it to Panasonic as it probably has more advanced tracking circuitry since the 701 is an older model (702 should have been compared but they aren't that much different).
I think the CLD-D701 was roughly manufactured same time, but a fair chunk of the CLD-D701 was carried forward from the older CLD-3090. CLD-D701 tracking is adjusted manually, but LX-900 tracking is adjusted automatically. The LX-900's tech makes the CLD-D701 look dated. Pioneer did have a sort of similar digital tracking before the LX-900 on the LD-V8000.
The fact is, field memory is "approximating" frames for CLV discs so I don't expect a whole lot of accuracy here especially when viewing LD's shot from film sources that have to be converted from 24fps to NTSC 30fps.
LD-V8000 shows frames when you hit the display button. I've never really experimented with it though. CLV discs can carry frame numbers, but in a different format than CAV. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 19 Apr 2022, 14:25
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This player was likely kept outside for an extended period of time at some point, so I completely disassembled everything to properly clean it. Anything corroded that I had replacements for was replaced, but I definitely did not have this panel so I had to give it a good cleaning. Below is before:
VNA1712.jpeg
The boards were in good shape aside from the connectors between boards (MAIN to DYMC and FLKY to PWSB) and the connectors on the back. I took care to clean them well. The shielding on the SCART assembly had a good amount of rust on it, so I de-soldered it to properly clean it. Below is after cleaning.
VWV1470.jpeg
Disassembling the front, there was a good amount of grass clippings inside, but cosmetic condition is actually quite nice given the circumstances.
CLD-D925_Front.jpeg
The humidity caused the Side B button to be finicky, so I replaced it. Without a spare, I probably would have tried contact cleaner on it. Here is what it looks like dissected if anyone is curious:
CLD-D925_Button.jpeg
Finally, I swapped in a VWR1269-A so I would not need to step up voltage.
VWR1269-A.jpg
The original CLD-D925 is mechanically switched, so with the VWR1269-A, the unit powers itself on when it is plugged in. It can then be powered off/on via remote. I'm fairly confident this player could be modded to change this behavior. Behind the power on button, there is an empty spot for a power button. I did not investigate to see what else what need to be done since I keep everything behind a switch.
I extend my sincere thanks to petimaci for helping me add this to my collection! |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 22 Apr 2022, 16:23
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Go with whatever looks better to you. I did not look into specs, but it could be very likely that your TV can handle the composite video much better than the receiver.
It really isn't a "fewer connections=better signal" thing. It is a matter of choosing the path for the best combfiltering, de-interlacing, and scaling. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 24 Apr 2022, 00:06
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Thank you for sharing this.
That is the coolest RLV case I've seen. I have several dark blue ones from Crawford, but the contents are all toast. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 25 Apr 2022, 19:47
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Any of the last generation CLDs: CLD-S104+, CLD-S304, CLD-D406, CLD-D504+, CLD-D604+, CLD-59, etc.
Jigs will vary by manufacturer and model (Panasonic being the worst), but all require a LD reference disc at the minimum. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 02 May 2022, 13:59
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 02 May 2022, 14:13
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I think I hear the lens hitting the disc.
I had one of these with bad spindle motor, but it also had an awful rotten fish odor (I assume from the capacitors inside the spindle.) |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 03 May 2022, 03:33
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 03 May 2022, 14:19
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I'm surprised there is a datasheet on that.
Anyway, IC901 is below the one you were tracing. I do not think that is a match either, since PLL Offset is on a different pin. It does not seem the SM you linked is a match.
Probably the easiest way to find the tap without SM is to look for the IC with the CX logo as ldfan mentioned, or look for AFM labeled somewhere. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 03 May 2022, 14:35
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The board they are referencing contains the video section, so maybe they fixed that?
jesuslovesgood wrote: I've seen people compare the LX-900 to the CLD-97. That they are very similar in quality.
The picture type is different, so that is (in my opinion) an apples to oranges comparison. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 03 May 2022, 14:38
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 04 May 2022, 01:49
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You will need a Pioneer GGV disc or an equivalent Sony/Yamaha/etc disc for the vertical bar pattern to ensure there is no crosstalk.
I made the image below:
115.jpg
Top left shows a clean frame 114.
Top center shows a clean frame 115.
Top right shows a clean frame 116.
Bottom left shows frame 115 with crosstalk from frame 114.
Bottom center shows frame 115 with crosstalk from frames 114 and 116.
Bottom right shows frame 115 with crosstalk from frame 116.
Without three successive frames (114, 115, 116) of the black bar moving from left to center to right, there is no clear way to see how much noise is being picked up from the adjacent tracks (crosstalk).
Crosstalk is generally misunderstood as just being some blatantly visible herringbone pattern at the end of a disc, but slight crosstalk is not clearly evident. It can even be difficult to see with the vertical bar pattern, which is why the display must be set to produce the noisiest picture possible. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 05 May 2022, 00:43
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The adjustments section in SM's provide a minuscule amount of context.
It makes sense to check this pattern at the beginning of the disc because the tilt servo engages further as the disc is read. I do not know why 115 was specifically chosen when there are a couple before it and the picture stop is on 475. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 06 May 2022, 00:15
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Have you found any revision history for the LD-700?
I have not. Service bulletins are quite hard to come by. I'm surprised at the amount uploaded here for the LX-900.
I do have the LX-900 and LA-3500 SM. C23304 (C304) is indeed 10uF in the LX-900U SM. On the LA-3500, C304 is numbered C849 and is 22uF as stated in the 1996 LX-900 bulletin.
C304/C849 are in the "Luminance Output Level" path, fed by pin 8 "Fade Control" of video processor AN2661NK (both the LX-900 and LA-3500). The datasheet mentions fading as "black fading-effect", and it is controlled by the level of voltage on pin 7. Pin 7 is not connected on the LA-3500. On the LX-900, pin 7 is connected to the "System Control" IC and is labeled "Y Down". |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 06 May 2022, 03:06
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That CLD-97 with no sides, broken off panel door and playback issues is not worth $400 shipped.
why would someone or some people prefer a sharper look to the picture?
Personal preference. I have six players in my current rotation, and I only consider two sharp. I prefer a lower-noise, "softer" analog-looking picture.
Also if a CLD-97 is brand new or in great shape will they generally already have a sharp picture?
They do not have a sharp picture.
Does it mean that some of them are not aligned properly or are Pioneer players typically considered less sharp out the box?
It depends on the model. Later Pioneer models tend to have a sharper picture than earlier models. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 11 May 2022, 13:36
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I have one of these. My plan was to swap in CLD-3030 power supply, but they are not compatible (CLD-99S runs power straight out of transformer to audio section). I eventually want to pull it and see if I can change windings.
I would buy the nicest step-down transformer that is within your budget. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 12 May 2022, 22:53
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I liked the 99S's design better (in particular the screen) and it was cheaper
It is an upgrade over the CLD-3030, but the problem with this chassis is it has way too much plastic. You have great electronics bound by a plastic chassis that has not aged well. The tray gears commonly break, and the plastic that holds the slider can as well (much more problematic).
I assume the 99S is not one of those JP players that has "hidden" support for 120v?
I have never really looked into the newer power supplies. I just swap them. Either way, the voltage it was designed for is marked on the board (not to be confused with fuse voltage ratings). If there is no indication of voltage on the board, fall back to what is written on the back of the unit.
Older power supplies are substantially better built than those found in later CLDs, but less forgiving. Particularly any model like the CLD-99S that has a separate power supply for the audio section. AC runs directly from transformer to audio board where it is rectified and filtered. From what I see, the only fuse that hopefully exists would be a thermal fuse in the transformer. Below is the CLD-99S audio section. AC is disconnected in the photo since I pulled the power supply, but it comes in to CN54 (to the right of CN49 which is connected near the center of the image).
VWV1030-A.jpg
The proper way to run this model at 120V would be to find out if there is a winding for it. If so, connect J1, J2 appropriately. Below is the top of the primary side.
CLD-99S_XT.jpeg
Under the transformer (primary on top):
CLD-99S_XB.jpeg
I am making assumptions here, so someone please correct me if I am wrong. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 13 May 2022, 18:54
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My philosophy is like what you like and do not worry about trying to justify it to other people. Just do not make false claims.
I am not into vinyl, but when people come over and see several thousand laserdiscs and say "That is an impressive record collection!", I simply reply "Thanks!". :lol: |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 15 May 2022, 01:05
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Does this mean that the 99S has similar internal settings to the 3030?
For the power supply, everything on the secondary side looks the same but I did not look hard. I did connect the CLD-99S power supply to 100V and 120V to measure the output going to the audio board. At 100V it was 32V and at 120V it was 40V. Here they are side-by-side since I had both desoldered:
Power_Supplies.jpg
Will be sure to open my 919 again before plugging it directly into US power.
I am curious to see what is marked on the board. These can be swapped, but the downside is the North American boards have the surge suppression flaw. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 15 May 2022, 01:21
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| I like the CLD-909 a lot. Super cool lights on the front and eject mechanism. Probably mid-range+ for 1986. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 15 May 2022, 05:12
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Very cool GIF!
I serviced one of these once. It requires some weird jigs. A good chunk of info on it is in Repair Guide for Laser Vision Players (GGF-613).
If memory serves me correct, the front is mostly metal. The gold plated jacks for CD/LD DA is a nice touch. The CLD-99S had the same, but it was dropped on the CLD-3030.
Some sleuthing shows the MSRP was likely $790. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 May 2022, 01:32
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| I just posted that more or less to archive it since I had both desoldered. They might look similar, but the transformers are different. The world probably won't end if you test it on 120V, but I personally would not run it on anything other than 100V. |
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| cplusplus |
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Posted: 18 May 2022, 01:38
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I didn't want to say anything since it was already in transit, but the biggest issue would be it arriving safely rather than voltage.
Check the spots in the photos here: https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9953
Based off video, pickup seems to be moving fine so piece in first photo is probably fine. |
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Thanks list