| Author |
Message |
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 18 May 2022, 02:35
|
|
|
Check if that little black knob is snapped off in second photo. It fits into the white cam gear below it in photo. If when pressing front or back of rail the pickup slides along feels loose it is probably snapped. You will have to help it.
Just unplug it, tilt it on the side and remove bottom copper plate. Get loading/unloading working by manually turning white gear that is under the headphones port. Don't apply power until you get whatever plastic that is broken repaired. |
|
 |
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 18 May 2022, 14:34
|
|
|
| That video should be able to help you get to the tray gears. Out of all of them, that is probably the most common issue. You can glue them (make sure you put the rod back through it first), but it might be a little rattly. We really need 3D printed replacements for these. Probably the second most common failure on LD-V8000 as well. |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 19 May 2022, 21:47
|
|
|
Nice work!
Here is a photo of the right spring. Make sure the left spring at other end of door is there as well.
Attachment: VBH1052_DoorSpringR.jpg |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 23 May 2022, 15:50
|
|
|
M-Holder is probably going to be broken. Stay away from any repair places unless they specialize in LD.
I think you need to first wait until it arrives to properly test and then give us a full report on what it does or does not do (chances are it will get even more dinged in shipping as that can’t be helped even if double boxed :|).
eBay "for parts or repair" is sketchier than buying one "working". I have bought several. My main outcome is that any existing internal damage is amplified in transit, followed by the seller thinking "Well, it is already broken. No need to pack it well." |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 02 Jun 2022, 23:14
|
|
|
greenlaser wrote: I can't spot the four acrylic silos
I see them in the top left corner of the building in the 1994 photo. They look to have been there from ~1992 through 1999.
Here is a photo of the Discovision recorder:
Attachment: Recorder.jpg |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 03 Jun 2022, 03:20
|
|
|
Here is how I disassemble the loading assembly for cleaning and re-greasing on this chassis.
Remove the four screws holding the front panel and the four screws holding the board assemblies:
Top_Screws.jpg
Remove three screws on the rear:
Back_Screws.jpg
Pull the front panel down:
Front_Panel.jpg
The panel can be moved to the side without disconnecting anything:
Front_Panel_Side.jpg
Lift each board assembly up. The white holders can be turned to hold them open:
Board_Holders.jpg |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 03 Jun 2022, 03:38
|
|
|
Carefully remove the clamper springs. They are easily damaged.
Clamper_Spring.jpg
Gently push the catch in the back right slighter towards the power supply and pull the slider towards the front so the clamper can be pulled up and out.
Slider_Rest.jpg
Below is the position where the clamper can be pulled up:
Slider_Clamper.jpg
Unscrew the grounding screw and remove wiring from harnesses:
Loading_Wiring.jpg
Remove the two zip ties, unbend the holder and unplug the two connectors that lead to the loading assembly.
Wiring_Ties.jpg |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 03 Jun 2022, 03:54
|
|
|
Push the right slider all the way forward and lift the loading assembly out of the player. Turn it over and you will see three gears with locking rings around them. Very carefully remove these locking rings and set them somewhere safe. I will not be disassembling the large cam gear on the right in this guide, but it is sometimes required.
Loading_Gears.jpg
Pull the gears up (don't worry about any timing). Clean the posts and inside of the gears. Regrease everything you are able to clean that has old grease on it with new grease. I use EM-30L.
Gear_Posts.jpg
Here is the goop that can hide under these gears that must be removed:
Old_Grease.jpg
If you see any white grease on the loading motor gear (under the black plastic sheet), remove it all and do not replace it. If you have a new belt, replace it. If not, ensure the old one does not have any grease on it.
Bad_Grease.jpg
While everything is out of the player, clean off any other bad grease around the left and right sliders and replace it. I take this time to easily clean the spindle grip with a cotton swab and water and clean the part of the spindle that meets the clamper and apply a dot of grease to it.
Chassis.jpg |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 03 Jun 2022, 04:04
|
|
|
Insert the loading assembly back in the player. Ensure this plastic piece goes back onto this screw:
Carrier.jpg
Next, move the right slider one position back, but not all the way where the catch will engage. Insert the clamper, and move the slider back so the catch engages. Reattach the springs.
Remove the gear that is on the top of the loading assembly (again being careful with the locking ring), clean and regrease and put it back. Your timing should look like below:
Loading_Timing.jpg
Manually load and unload the player fully in each direction and ensure it all has been reassembled correctly before reattaching wiring to harnesses, etc.
[To Be Continued] |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 14 Jun 2022, 15:31
|
|
|
From http://www.laserdiscarchive.co.uk/laserdisc_archive/muse_high_def_ld/Muse_high_def_ld.htm :
A significant difference of all these Hi-Vision LD players (which are, incidentally, just that, with no provision for CD replay, is this the end of the combi concept?), is that instead of the conventional 780 nanometre laser they make use of a shorter wavelength 670nm device, able to read the more closely packed spiral of pits on the new discs. With NTSC the nominal track pitch is 1.67 microns (though can be less) whereas with Hi Vision it comes clown to 1.1 microns. The actual size of the pits encoded on die discs is the same as before. However, in CAV and at the fastest CLV speed the new discs rotate 50% faster at 2,700 rpm (NTSC is 1800rpm.) Though the shorter wavelength laser is a necessity for Hi-Vision to cope with increased bandwidth, it will be interesting to see how this affects replay of NTSC discs. In theory, the performance should improve. |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 14 Jun 2022, 15:44
|
|
|
| I was able to get a better picture without a Panasonic DVD Recorder, so I ran direct composite. There are a lot of variables in play, but at the very least the VP-773 offers substantially more settings, and in my case better picture quality. |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 15 Jun 2022, 03:37
|
|
|
| I sometimes hear that, but it has always been the tilt of the mech causing it in my adventures. |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 15 Jun 2022, 03:54
|
|
|
| These have a shipping screw and if shipped without it a gear can break. I have one of these, but I'm far from an expert on HeNe models so that is just my guess. If that is indeed the cause, you can buy VNL-028 off eBay and swap it out. As far as true service and repair, these are quite niche at this point. I only know of one person that has significant experience with HeNe models. |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 16 Jun 2022, 14:38
|
|
|
Unplug it from wall and turn the voltage selector each way a few times to make sure it is making a good connection. I doubt this is the issue, but it is easy enough to try.
Sounds like a bad cap somewhere to me. In the past I have repaired no standby by replacing a small capacitor on the primary side of power supply. I have repaired stuck in standby by replacing a small capacitor on board with display on it.
no matter what I try I cannot get the LD tray to come out - something binding or the belt is slipping (trying to manually turn the mechanism after removing the Video Board
Belt slipping will not be an issue as long as you are turning the white plastic pulley. Just don't force anything. Make sure pickup is near spindle. |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 17 Jun 2022, 04:08
|
|
|
You can append this to the URL:
|
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 20 Jun 2022, 16:35
|
|
|
For scopes you can take a look at https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=8057
For CLD-R7G Side B centering, attach probe to tracking error and play Side B of a LD in test mode with tilt on, but tracking servo off. Adjust until waveform is maximized and even. Turn off test mode and play the disc to make sure it is no longer skipping and apply locking compound. CLD-D406 service manual will have the necessary additional details.
For crosstalk adjustments, you'll need a test disc. Before going down that rabbit hole though, look at step one in CLD-99 service manual. If you adjust tilt offset, mark the original position first.
It is more important to understand how these players work and what the purpose of each servo is and how they all relate rather than blindly following adjustment steps.
happycube archived what I believe to be the most important resource available:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zj8RE1EV_Q4 |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 21 Jun 2022, 03:33
|
|
|
Have to go all in:
Attachment: 007.jpg |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 22 Jun 2022, 11:41
|
|
|
That is the other board I mentioned to check caps on. C101, C104, C105 and anything else you see. I would do all of this with player unplugged from wall because you will need to measure ESR/capacitance rather than voltage.
A bad Mode Control IC would be so rare that you would have to rule out everything else first. |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 25 Jun 2022, 18:52
|
|
|
d770 did a good job in the post above regarding this specific issue.
In general, the way these Pioneer players work with Standby is the Mode Control IC is always powered by +5V, awaiting user input to power on. When that input is received, the Mode Control IC tells the power supply to fully power on the player.
The other two caps I mentioned are also on this "always on" +5V supply. One is in the Mode Control IC's watchdog circuit and one is for the remote receiver (the remote receiver has to always be on so the player can be powered on via remote). |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 26 Jun 2022, 01:27
|
|
|
So, then is it possible a player could power on via remote but not via the front panel power switch?
I believe it would be the other way around: The player can't be powered on via remote, but can be powered on via front panel buttons.
For capacitors, always go by what is on the board and note the orientation. Sometimes schematics or board can be wrong. The values are on the side of the capacitors. Match the polarization (polar capacitors have a stripe indicating the negative side), uF, greater or equal voltage, and ensure they are roughly the same height and width.
CLD-99 is a little different with (according to SM):
C101 100uF 6.3V
C106 10uF 16V
C201 220uF 6.3V
I'd go ahead and order all of them as well as C14 on power supply board since all four together will be cheaper than the shipping. |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 27 Jun 2022, 23:43
|
|
|
| C101, C106, C201 are the only electrolytics I see. They are denoted in section 3.1 of the service manual in the FLKY and PONS schematics. The rest are not electrolytic, and it would be very rare for them to fail. The capacitor part numbers at the end of these manuals are no longer of use. |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 28 Jun 2022, 13:51
|
|
|
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 01 Jul 2022, 01:00
|
|
|
| I can't remember the CLD-99 exactly, but it should be roughly three screws on top and the front unhooks at the top and can be pulled downwards. Carefully unhook the plastic connectors that seat the cables running to the front (some can break easily). Keep the player unplugged throughout. With the front free you can put it face-down on a towel, etc. and then its just a ton of smaller screws holding the boards in. |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 04 Jul 2022, 18:23
|
|
|
The 7020 is a repackaged Pioneer CLD-97 (no McIntosh improvements, just many have an AC-3 board added and in a McIntosh package) and many of these have a problem with age where the signal in the unit signal degrades with time and they eventually totally stop playing. This is not the actual laser failing but somewhere in the electronics there is a failure, I have not had the time to trace the issue but I'm afraid it's going to be one of the IC's as I've done full cap replacement on the mainboard with no help.
The CLD-91/92 has very similar video section to CLD-97. RF goes into PA5010 demod IC, then to PDB005 TBC and PDB006 memory/spindle control. There is something failing with these. I know of two situations where PA5010 can get really hot and draw so much -5V it burns the -5V supply. I don't think it is the IC, rather the IC is receiving insane input.
For this MLD7020, is IC301 (surface-mount CXD2500) hot to the touch after it has been running a while? Another thing to check is PLL Gain adjustment. |
|
|
Jump to forum Jump to topic |
| cplusplus |
|
Posted: 07 Jul 2022, 13:46
|
|
|
| As far as I know. Good call on purchasing one, even if you had to ship it international. It is absolutely worth it if you do not have a test disc. I might even argue that GGV1016 is better for people just starting out. Without a doubt it is superior to GGV1069 on Level II capable players like the LD-V8000. |
|
|
|
Thanks list