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Posted: 04 Sep 2018, 03:44 

Hello everyone,

Our friend amaroc from Poland has been kind enough to send me low-res (200dpi) and high-res (600dpi) scans of an old quarterly UK LD magazine Laser Disc Review .

I nice chunk of LD retail history unfolding over the years.


I created a specific subdomain for this:

Currently 22 issues uploaded, check by year:




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Posted: 11 Nov 2018, 17:57 

Sounds pretty likely it's alignment. The blue mark should line-up with another mark on an adjacent gear but I have no idea how the alignment works. Here is the service manual for the CLD-1400 (same chassis) that might help.

Maybe Kurtis can also provide input on it as well.

Once you get it fixed (I'm sure you will), try not to mess with gearing in the future especially when it comes to belt replacement. You should be able to access the loading belt by ejecting the tray and with the cover off.

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Posted: 26 Nov 2018, 05:13 

If you are having this much trouble playing CD's then either the tilt is way off or the pickup is just bad (signal getting weak). You should have found a point where all CD's played fine.

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Posted: 11 Dec 2018, 04:15 

I just did some research and found what appears to be the part that keeps going bad.....

The part number is VXA1365 and called a "slide latch assembly". Based on the image above, this appears to be a generic door latch that can be found on a lot of older TV's that had the push in latch for doors that hid control buttons (my old Mitsubishi, CS-2655R, CRT had this style switch). I am not sure if they are all of the same size but if they are you would probably just need to make a simple swap to get your door working again.

I can't seem to find any resource on the web to purchase these switches but I'm sure if you visit a TV repair shop that has a lot of broken TV's laying around you could salvage a switch from it. Also, I have seen in the many years of selling AV gear that this particular latch design always seems to fail over time (although the one on my Mits TV was good to the end) so it would be a good idea to pick up a number of spares to ensure you can keep fixing it (or just fix the door and limit how many times you open it).

Update >>>>>

Well, I found something that works just like the VXA1365 but I'm not sure if the size is correct.

You could contact the sellers to see about getting dimensions but you'll still have to open up the 3080 to measure the one in there to see if it's a match.

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 Post subject: AC3/DTS visual timeline
Posted: 21 Jan 2019, 15:41 

Just wanted to see what it would look like, from first release to last one!


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 Post subject: Re: How about a Discord ?
Posted: 21 Mar 2019, 19:15 

For me personally it’s just that I don’t need more or faster or easier interactions with people I need higher quality interactions with people. This forum lets us put all our thoughts out in well formatted posts that are actually worth something an hour or a year later, even Trippletopper because let’s face it he has created the most popular topics in the last year. :)

Think of all of Ty’s posts that keep coming up when you search for things and realize that if he had typed all that stuff into Facebook or whatever it would already be lost. When you make your posts on this forum you make it better and better. When you put it on FB it basically just starts trying to make ad revenue and if that fails it essentially disappears. People have abandoned forums for something much much worse.

This forum also has one owner which has its advantages.

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Posted: 02 Apr 2019, 17:28 

That's why I would never buy a standalone AC3-RF Demodulator as people think that is the "only" way to get the coding out of the player.

I would recommend searching out these three models on eBay:

Sony, SDP-E800
Denon, AVD-2000

These are all Surround Processors with AC-3RF Demodulators built in but they also have an S/PDIF optical output that will convert the signal and send it over to your AV Receiver (in other words, you just use these processors as a digital switcher).

Every so often you'll see these units sell for a lot less than a standalone AC3-RF Demodulator. You'll just have to be patient.

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 Post subject: Re: CLD-M450 Disassembly
Posted: 16 Apr 2019, 03:54 

I still think you have a bad belt.

I know from experience w/ my M90 that the belts on the changers are even more critical in that they need to be really tight since this is probably the heaviest tray that Pioneer made for any of their players and thus needs more lifting torque.

if you own an Alpha Turn model from around the same time period that uses the PEB-1013 belt, you can use the belt from that player to test it on your M450 to see if it works better.

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 Post subject: Re: [CLD-M450] Disassembly
Posted: 16 Apr 2019, 18:10 

When I was building my M90, I had issues with the tray as well. The tray is so large and flexible, I found it was getting hung up on the transformer when trying to lift. Putting a slight bend in the metal bar that holds the two sides of the tray together around the transformer resolved the transformer hanging, but I did end up replacing the belt too. I used the standard VEB1184 SQB3.6 belt and that cleared up the rest of my problems.

By far the biggest issue I had was getting the tray properly synchronized. Having the tray be off by even one tooth would throw the timing completely off.

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 Post subject: Re: CLD-D604 Grinding Noise
Posted: 19 Apr 2019, 05:37 

Take your finger and push the pickup forward and back, if you see the gears between the motor worm gear and the track jump up and down then the pins holding them are broke. The entire holder does not initially break, just the gear pins.

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Posted: 04 Aug 2019, 23:31 

I haven't seen a V820 though and don't know much about them.

The CLD-V820 appears to be a CLD-2090 chassis based on its rear jack arrangement.

Just to add some additional information, the 90 series were the first of the 1bit DLC players so audio quality would theoretically be not as good as the mult bit DAC's on the CLD-1070 (4x oversampling, 16bit) and CLD-1080 (8x oversampling, 18bit). Picture quality should be better on the 90 series vs the 70 and 80 series but nothing significant (as I said before).

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Posted: 22 Aug 2019, 01:21 

Definitely the grip ring is bad. It does not spin up fast enough to properly read the TOC (Table Of Contents) so it defaults to a single sided disc mode and will not let you switch to side B (It won’t work anyway because of the gross grip ring slippage you have). When this bad they pretty much need to be replaced of cleaned and then coated with something like Plastic-Dip as the original ring is too far gone to recover back to near original gripping condition.

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Posted: 14 Sep 2019, 19:45 

When replacing the pickup all the calibrations will be off, so you will need to go through the service manual and follow the steps set out for when you replace the pickup. covers the NTSC version of the 515/915.

And simoni just updated this alignment guide for the LD-4300D/4400 - it's for a more complex player but a really good description: edit after cplusplus's comment below:

edit: The above's for more general issues. Make sure the motor holder is in good shape on the new pickup - the 315 has the dreaded VNL16xx version - and maybe remount the pickup and make sure there isn't anything blocking it? krbahr or a more experienced tech will be more helpful than I :)

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 Post subject: Re: CLD-92 Audio Noise
Posted: 17 Sep 2019, 00:52 

I’d actually re-flow the solder at the droid first if you thing that is the problem. I’d recommend GI851 Fast switching rectifiers as they will also help lower the noise floor over the conventional rectifiers.
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