It is currently 14 Nov 2019, 09:24

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Posted: 15 Sep 2018, 17:48 

Just curious, in theory could I swap out the ABT2010 chip in my Yamaha receiver for the ABT2015?

I stumbled across Anchor Bay's info sheet which proudly proclaimed "The ABT2015 is pin-for-pin compatible with the ABT2010."

Other than it being technically beyond my ability for the de-solder/re-solder, what would the results be?
What "improvments" are on the 2015 that are not on the 2010?
Would it be more like swapping out a CPU where everything just works better,
or would firmware be necessary to access new features making this have little or no difference w/o it.

I do have a local repair guy I might trust & the part isn't very expensive.
Thanks.

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Posted: 16 Sep 2018, 07:18 

Lddb.com is ranked 270,345th in the world (amongst the 30 million domains). This site is relatively popular among users in the united states. It gets 68.9% of its traffic from the United States . This site is estimated to be worth $12202. It has 12 backlinks. Lddb.com has 45% seo score.

(Obviously, the people behind the math don't own LaserDiscs :lol: )

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Posted: 25 May 2019, 04:14 

Here's an interesting page I ran across:

http://www.geodatasys.com/cldv.htm

Showing several industrial series remote/unit pairs:
CU-V113 (aka DXR1036) Wireless Remote & UC-V109BC Pen-type Barcode Reader for CLD-V2800, CLD-V2600,
CU-V113 only listed for the CLD-V2400 & CLD-V2300.

http://www.geodatasys.com/TECH/DVD/108rmte.jpg
With this description:
Barcode Reader & Remote Control
UC-V109BC
(for Industrial DVD and CLD Players)
This affordable pen-type scanner for Industrial LD & DVD players is slim, lightweight and easy to use. Simply trace the light-tipped end over the barcode, while holding the "read" button, allowing instantaneous access to any frame.

Also a basic lightweight wireless remote with pause, play, scan, still/step and skip button controls. Functions with most Pioneer LaserDisc and DVD players, including Home Entertainment models (barcode functions only with Industrial/Educational LB2 players).


http://www.geodatasys.com/TECH/DVD/Ruv113.jpg
With this description:
Pioneer Industrial Wireless Remote Control
DXR1036 (aka CU-V113) for CLD-V series
This large button, membrane surface, durable remote is for use with most Pioneer CLD industrial players, particularly the CLD-V2400, CLD-V2300D, CLD-V2600 and CLD-V2800. Primary functions are clearly marked and easy to use: Play, Pause, Stop, FF/FR, StepF/R, Search, Repeat, etc.

RU-V103 for LD-V series

Note: "REJECT" button functions as "STOP", does not open disc drawer.

also see UC-V109BC: Pen-type Barcode Reader
(functions as basic light weight Wireless Remote Control: pause, play, scan, still/step, skip)

...may be more in some of the site's other links.

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Posted: 03 Jun 2019, 17:58 

"There is no privacy; only privacy settings."
(Can't remember where I read that... so true.)

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Posted: 21 Oct 2019, 19:23 

Well, rein-o, after reading about all of the permatex product options. I decided to go with your epoxy suggestion. Just too many warnings about types of plastics or the need to heat to 500 degrees to remove.

Still it's a scary fix to perform.
I'm actually playing a CD as I let the epoxy to set a bit to make sure the height is correct and negate any inappropriate placement or running epoxy.
This should work out well. The total fix looks like this:
Plastic washer at the bottom will be epoxied to two washers I'm using for correct spacing.
Those washers are being epoxied directly to the RPM wheel. That should be much stronger than new. The most likely failure would still be the shaft turning inside as I purposely didn't concentrate on putting epoxy there. Enough got there on its own to really stiffen the pressure i had to apply when pushing the clamp onto the shaft so I'm thinking it will hold. I'd still be able to pull it off, rough up the shaft & go for another epoxy fix with better hold.

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Posted: 22 Oct 2019, 23:53 

My CLD-99 is repaired.
Since the original symptoms of mine exactly matched a bearing failure I'm left wondering how many others are misdiagnosing a simple glue failure which allows the clamp assembly to move down on the shaft which crashes the RPM wheel into its sensor?
The fix is to find a spacer (i used 2 flat washers) and epoxy to both the bottom of the RPM Wheel and to the plastic washer at the bottom of the shaft. Also to the shaft itself, but that will be near impossible to avoid anyway. A correctly sized spacer will leave the RPM sensor correctly aligned in the sensor gap and eliminate any possibility of a glue failure dropping the ring into the sensor. A glue failure would simply allow the shaft to turn inside the assembly requiring a simple re-gluing.

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Posted: 23 Oct 2019, 06:04 

Nope, no more errors after my post :clap: and the extra added weight is so small as to be totally inconsequential. There's only about a 1mm layer of glue or epoxy around the shaft from the factory that holds the clamp to the shaft. This fix adds several more mm (width of the washers) greatly reinforcing the weakest link of the structure, but the two tiny washers are probably less than 2mm tall total. With the epoxy I think we're talking only a couple grams.

My best guess is that the alignment on the motor is going to be slightly different when moved to a new machine especially since there's a pretty wide tolerance on "correct" height. My epoxy/washer spacers are certainly not going to put the clamp at the exact height it was. I just chose a spacing that put the RPM wheel 1/2 way between the top & bottom of the sensor gap. I wish I knew what the bottom gap spec for a new machine is, but one possible cause listed on the error chart is "bearing too tight". I probably moved the placement up just a hair thus putting slightly more down force when it clamps. Playing discs probably allowed the bearing to re-seat; a much preferred situation than if it had been loosened & left with more play than before.
(I think, ...leveraging my quite possibly useless knowledge on "pre-load" effects on wheel bearings :lol: )
Whether this shortened or extended this motor's life may eventually be revealed, right? Well, at least I have a spare motor for that day and for most of today it performed flawlessly.
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