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Posted: 15 Sep 2018, 17:48 

Just curious, in theory could I swap out the ABT2010 chip in my Yamaha receiver for the ABT2015?

I stumbled across Anchor Bay's info sheet which proudly proclaimed "The ABT2015 is pin-for-pin compatible with the ABT2010."

Other than it being technically beyond my ability for the de-solder/re-solder, what would the results be?
What "improvments" are on the 2015 that are not on the 2010?
Would it be more like swapping out a CPU where everything just works better,
or would firmware be necessary to access new features making this have little or no difference w/o it.

I do have a local repair guy I might trust & the part isn't very expensive.
Thanks.

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Posted: 16 Sep 2018, 07:18 

Lddb.com is ranked 270,345th in the world (amongst the 30 million domains). This site is relatively popular among users in the united states. It gets 68.9% of its traffic from the United States . This site is estimated to be worth $12202. It has 12 backlinks. Lddb.com has 45% seo score.

(Obviously, the people behind the math don't own LaserDiscs :lol: )

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Posted: 25 May 2019, 04:14 

Here's an interesting page I ran across:

http://www.geodatasys.com/cldv.htm

Showing several industrial series remote/unit pairs:
CU-V113 (aka DXR1036) Wireless Remote & UC-V109BC Pen-type Barcode Reader for CLD-V2800, CLD-V2600,
CU-V113 only listed for the CLD-V2400 & CLD-V2300.

http://www.geodatasys.com/TECH/DVD/108rmte.jpg
With this description:
Barcode Reader & Remote Control
UC-V109BC
(for Industrial DVD and CLD Players)
This affordable pen-type scanner for Industrial LD & DVD players is slim, lightweight and easy to use. Simply trace the light-tipped end over the barcode, while holding the "read" button, allowing instantaneous access to any frame.

Also a basic lightweight wireless remote with pause, play, scan, still/step and skip button controls. Functions with most Pioneer LaserDisc and DVD players, including Home Entertainment models (barcode functions only with Industrial/Educational LB2 players).


http://www.geodatasys.com/TECH/DVD/Ruv113.jpg
With this description:
Pioneer Industrial Wireless Remote Control
DXR1036 (aka CU-V113) for CLD-V series
This large button, membrane surface, durable remote is for use with most Pioneer CLD industrial players, particularly the CLD-V2400, CLD-V2300D, CLD-V2600 and CLD-V2800. Primary functions are clearly marked and easy to use: Play, Pause, Stop, FF/FR, StepF/R, Search, Repeat, etc.

RU-V103 for LD-V series

Note: "REJECT" button functions as "STOP", does not open disc drawer.

also see UC-V109BC: Pen-type Barcode Reader
(functions as basic light weight Wireless Remote Control: pause, play, scan, still/step, skip)

...may be more in some of the site's other links.

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Posted: 03 Jun 2019, 17:58 

"There is no privacy; only privacy settings."
(Can't remember where I read that... so true.)

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Posted: 21 Oct 2019, 19:23 

Well, rein-o, after reading about all of the permatex product options. I decided to go with your epoxy suggestion. Just too many warnings about types of plastics or the need to heat to 500 degrees to remove.

Still it's a scary fix to perform.
I'm actually playing a CD as I let the epoxy to set a bit to make sure the height is correct and negate any inappropriate placement or running epoxy.
This should work out well. The total fix looks like this:
Plastic washer at the bottom will be epoxied to two washers I'm using for correct spacing.
Those washers are being epoxied directly to the RPM wheel. That should be much stronger than new. The most likely failure would still be the shaft turning inside as I purposely didn't concentrate on putting epoxy there. Enough got there on its own to really stiffen the pressure i had to apply when pushing the clamp onto the shaft so I'm thinking it will hold. I'd still be able to pull it off, rough up the shaft & go for another epoxy fix with better hold.

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Posted: 22 Oct 2019, 23:53 

My CLD-99 is repaired.
Since the original symptoms of mine exactly matched a bearing failure I'm left wondering how many others are misdiagnosing a simple glue failure which allows the clamp assembly to move down on the shaft which crashes the RPM wheel into its sensor?
The fix is to find a spacer (i used 2 flat washers) and epoxy to both the bottom of the RPM Wheel and to the plastic washer at the bottom of the shaft. Also to the shaft itself, but that will be near impossible to avoid anyway. A correctly sized spacer will leave the RPM sensor correctly aligned in the sensor gap and eliminate any possibility of a glue failure dropping the ring into the sensor. A glue failure would simply allow the shaft to turn inside the assembly requiring a simple re-gluing.

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Posted: 23 Oct 2019, 06:04 

Nope, no more errors after my post :clap: and the extra added weight is so small as to be totally inconsequential. There's only about a 1mm layer of glue or epoxy around the shaft from the factory that holds the clamp to the shaft. This fix adds several more mm (width of the washers) greatly reinforcing the weakest link of the structure, but the two tiny washers are probably less than 2mm tall total. With the epoxy I think we're talking only a couple grams.

My best guess is that the alignment on the motor is going to be slightly different when moved to a new machine especially since there's a pretty wide tolerance on "correct" height. My epoxy/washer spacers are certainly not going to put the clamp at the exact height it was. I just chose a spacing that put the RPM wheel 1/2 way between the top & bottom of the sensor gap. I wish I knew what the bottom gap spec for a new machine is, but one possible cause listed on the error chart is "bearing too tight". I probably moved the placement up just a hair thus putting slightly more down force when it clamps. Playing discs probably allowed the bearing to re-seat; a much preferred situation than if it had been loosened & left with more play than before.
(I think, ...leveraging my quite possibly useless knowledge on "pre-load" effects on wheel bearings :lol: )
Whether this shortened or extended this motor's life may eventually be revealed, right? Well, at least I have a spare motor for that day and for most of today it performed flawlessly.

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Posted: 25 Oct 2019, 15:14 

SONY 1-465-300-11 RMTJ722 Genuine OEM Original Remote.
This is made exclusively for model MDP-510.

Image

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Posted: 30 Sep 2021, 01:19 

Starting a thread to detail tips & settings for our latest discovered toy. If you missed out on the eval board, this is in many ways its equal (...and in some ways better. Much easier anyway).

New units, firmware, and Support Materials are still available through Kramer. kramerav.com
Keep watching for used units to pop up as the replacement model is already listed and this one will become unavailable as soon as inventory is exhausted. B&H has some used inventory, but at a high price.

Starting Point... Will update as things mature:

Firmware Version: 33.47.50.18115.18247.P 01/03/15 18:27:01 (Interesting that the Kramer Web Site shows Older date on higher versions.)
I am assuming all the recent LDDB folks received the same firmware and
I also found a newer manual than the one linked to on the web site. The newer one is marked as P/N 2900-300491 Rev 5 for the VP-773A.
The older one is a Rev 2 marked for the VP-773. Differences appear to be minor.

In my "lab" I had a CLD-D703 and a DVL-V888 to compare on two VP-773AMP devices. I wrongly assumed I would end up with the exact settings for my "best results". I am absolutely no expert and these settings are the result of simply reading the manual and trying different settings. I'm looking forward to getting things more correct as the thread discussion develops. The display being used is the Pioneer Elite PRO-151FD 60" Kuro plasma (Pure Mode). Calibrated, but not professionally.

Settings for CLD-D703: (assume factory default for anything not mentioned)

INPUT -
Display Mode > Single Window - Best Fit
Color Space > Follow Input

PROCESS -
Deinterlacing > Method > Motion Adaptive
Deinterlacing > Sync > Current Field
Film Mode > Follow Input
Diagonal Correction > 001
MD Sensitivity > Level 3
Picture > Dither > Mode 1

ENHANCE -
Noise Reduction > Temporal NR > 002
Noise Reduction > Block NR > 002

SCALE -
Aspect Ratio > Best Fit
Overscan > Off
Output > Video Resolution 480P

Hopefully this is just a good starting point and can be improved upon by those more knowledgeable as a lot of guess work went into this and it's not possible to try every combination. As is the case with most laserdisc setups in the mortal world, getting any result by HDMI of noise/detail approaching what can be achieved by plugging in a composite is a win. I believe these settings are slightly exceeding in the overall as compared to the direct composite connection... a win!

Settings for DVL-V888: (assume factory default for anything not mentioned)

INPUT -
Display Mode > Single Window - Best Fit
Color Space > Follow Input

PROCESS -
Deinterlacing > Method > Motion Adaptive
Deinterlacing > Sync > Current Field
Film Mode > Follow Input
Diagonal Correction > 003
MD Sensitivity > Level 4
Picture > Dither > Mode 1

ENHANCE -
Noise Reduction > Temporal NR > 003
Noise Reduction > Block NR > 003

SCALE -
Aspect Ratio > Best Fit
Overscan > Off
Output > Video Resolution 480P

The amount of noise in the picture from the V888 surprised me. I hadn't compared it side by side with any of my D70x players and always thought it would compare closely. This was not the case. The end result from the Kramer is fairly cleaned up, but a whole step or two softer vs the D703. Please comment below with any freshman errors I made here and I'll update. Thanks!

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Posted: 19 Oct 2021, 03:33 

Ive a workaround in place - on the opposite side of the laser carriage I had noticed a lot of wear in the metal frame from where the laser assemblies white plastic wheel travels....especially noticeable where the transition occurs between the guides and from the white to the black track segment.

Took a punt and cut a small piece of material to use as a wear/grip strip..only an inch long by 1/4 wide..and installed where the wear is evident near where the laser assembly transitions...this worked first time and has worked since so far... how it works...it could be raising one side of the assembly or/and just gives a little more grip at the right position.

Will monitor how this goes...so far it works perfectly.

That's funny. I just posted about something similar I did & yours was the next post I read. In my case I replaced the entire rack, but I also had to build a little ramp like you just described. What material did you use? I used 1/16" double stick foam tape.

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Posted: 08 Feb 2024, 07:03 

Hi-

...I worked in a store that sold the original Magnavision player in 1980, and I got my first player in 1984, a Pioneer VP-1000 that skipped and froze about halfway into discs. I fixed that problem, and later I upgraded to nicer players into the late 1990s when I got a used CLD-D704.


My 704s are all wearing out. Bearing issues we are working on a fix, but I have to find the time.
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