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Posted: 20 May 2016, 20:10 

Sounds like that's the video level - VR482 on the VDTB board adjusts that, and as long as that bit hasn't been bypassed that should fix it for you.

I suspect the original adjustment expected a voltage dip, and didn't expect such a high quality output circuit. ;)

If you can get a Pioneer test disk in Europe easily enough, that will help you get the levels correct since you can follow along with the adjustments in chapter 1 of the SM.

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Posted: 07 Jan 2019, 11:56 

You take the video signal from pin 7 of J602 on the VDTB assy (see pic), you'll then want to cut or de-solder that lead of the ribbon cable that goes to the PALB / YCNR board as we are bypassing that (you could actually install a switch at this point if you wanted to switch back between stock and the mod) . You'll also want to de-solder the stock RCA socket and replace it with a good quality one to connect up to your new line driver, I would also terminate the the output close to the chip itself rather than on the socket to reduce change of oscillations.

The 5v rails can be taken directly from the main board, you'll see a +5v -5v and a GND that you can solder straight to. I bypassed these with some electrolytic capacitors on my strip board circuit

Let me know if you want any more info!

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Posted: 23 Feb 2019, 20:01 

Phase errors are when the time base corrector is slightly off, causing the colors to wind up a bit off.

And that's an impressive capture chain, definitely worth doing the mod for! (As long as the phase offset is the same in the color burst, it'll correct it.)

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Posted: 29 Dec 2020, 20:51 



Thanks for the reply! Is it really that simple? Has anyone already tried this on their players? I'm not a fan of buying things from China, but if there are no other easy options, I may just have to go for it.


kris confirmed it on this posting....

https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8382

Definitely way simpler than piecing it together piece by piece as you are thinking of doing. This board basically has all those parts you need to make it work. Just need to tap the DSP chip to get a signal to it.

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Posted: 03 Apr 2021, 18:59 

blindrezo wrote:
It seems my 315 is missing this IC802 that everyone is talking about. :/

Unplug your player, pull board and flip it.

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Posted: 03 Apr 2021, 20:43 

It seems my 315 is missing this IC802 that everyone is talking about. :/
Unplug your player, pull board and flip it.

Yup...the chip is on the other side of the board since it is a surface mount IC.

Just the same with my CLD-M90 I just modded...

Green Side
https://i.vgy.me/qWZO9q.jpg

Brown Side
https://i.vgy.me/d30bQW.jpg
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