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 Post subject: [GLOBAL] Replacement BELTS
Posted: 25 Jul 2018, 02:08 

Thanks to Kurtis, we can more easily look up for replacement BELTS (or good contenders) with: (I extracted only the pages relevant to LD Players)

You can lookup for part number (ex: PEB1138 ) or close matches.

Standard ref provided can be matched with Belts size list .

Good luck and don't hesitate to provide any matching combination/replacement belt size for others to use.


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Posted: 19 Aug 2019, 16:46 

The manual seems to be the same one as the 704 in which case I’m pretty sure it’s a 200V NTSC-only player.

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Posted: 19 Aug 2019, 18:26 

As Zeta said, appears the only difference is that the 770 runs on a different voltage so it should be identical other than that to the 703.

For manuals, it appears the user manual for the 704 is only available (I probably should upload my 703 manual to the site at some point) but it’s essentially the same except in regards to the notations regarding the AC3-RF terminal. Here is the link...

As for performing an AC3-RF mod, you can look here for how one was performed on a 703....

I’ll be getting my 703 modded at some point of which I’ll post when that happens.

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Posted: 19 Aug 2019, 18:28 

If it's the same story as the D750 (which is the same as D701) there might be a voltage switch on the back for US/JPN and UK/AU voltages...The D701 doesn't have that switch afaik. Those two units share the same user manual.

Also, if it's NTSC only that should be printed on the back of the unit somewhere.

Yes, please upload any manuals missing in the hardware database :) I still need D701/D750 user and service manuals :(

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Posted: 20 Aug 2019, 06:05 


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Posted: 20 Aug 2019, 08:11 

Hello from downunder!
Nice first player,

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Posted: 20 Aug 2019, 18:06 

The motor in that deck is worth more than the rest of it. There are tons of otherwise fine 704/703/99s with wasted spindle motors. Do NOT throw the spindle motor out! Even if you never get another one of these decks you can still trade the motor for $100 worth of discs probably if the bearing is good.

Most LD players break form a lack of use. My guess is someone let this thing sit for 20 years and then fired it up just before you bought it and all that stuff happened because the lube was all frozen.

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Posted: 20 Aug 2019, 19:12 

It looks like most of gears (even slightly worn) should not be a problem. The missing tooth on the tray could be an issue but maybe not since it’s just needed for loading / unloading.

The issue, at least to me, is that you just need to extract the tray completely so you can re-align it with the rest of the system. I re-installed a tray incorrectly before on my CLD-59 after a belt change and it was getting half way stuck as well. It was difficult to remove and I admit I had to force it out at some point but thank goodness nothing broke. I found that I had re-inserted the tray in a slight angle that caused the misalignment but once I got it right it was fine again.

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Posted: 21 Aug 2019, 14:49 

Congrats on getting it working. And yes, you do have either a dirty or worn grip ring. You can try to clean it first with alcohol but that may only fix it temporarily (I use Intraclean to essentially revitalize the rubber and it works great but the chemical is no longer manufactured).

Otherwise, you can order a new ring on eBay....

You would have to remove the old ring and any residue left over. You can also try the plastidip but I have no experience with it but I do hear people swear by it.

Tried selecting B side of disc...noise at rear did not work ?? another jam somewhere perhaps !

You probably need a new loading belt. Side B jam ups are common w/ worn belts since they also shift the carriage during the turn around. Here is one that is available on eBay but I think you can find them cheaper elsewhere...

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Posted: 21 Aug 2019, 14:50 

I would brush, I've never used the stuff.
There is someone on ebay selling new cut rings but I've never tried them.
Remove clean and then try your new option.
Good luck.

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Posted: 22 Aug 2019, 01:21 

Definitely the grip ring is bad. It does not spin up fast enough to properly read the TOC (Table Of Contents) so it defaults to a single sided disc mode and will not let you switch to side B (It won’t work anyway because of the gross grip ring slippage you have). When this bad they pretty much need to be replaced of cleaned and then coated with something like Plastic-Dip as the original ring is too far gone to recover back to near original gripping condition.

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Posted: 15 Jul 2020, 08:51 



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Posted: 17 Jul 2020, 21:43 

It could be working it might just be the display...but all chips and components are staying cold even after leaving on for ages...will have another look at components especially power regulators and their diodes and caps

As odotb3 stated, it could be bad caps in the power supply. If the chips are not even getting warm, I would think it's likely power supply related. A bad control IC could be the issue too but I would think other chips would still be getting warm.

...otherwise will hold onto it until hopefully see another reasonably priced unit on fleabay pop up...AC3 units are hard to get these days for sure!

Agree with that. I always went for processors myself since they are usually cheaper than a standalone RF Demodulator. I might recommend you try and find a unit that has an "optical audio output" if possible since you can use them w/ a modern day AV Receiver and have it do the digital processing.

Also need to see if I can make an AC3 mod circuit for my D770...but really need something I know that works to try all this out.

I have a D703 on my bucket list to update to AC-3 as well. Not sure when I'll get around to it but once I do it will be posted on the site. My M90 is next on the list for a very extensive mod with S/PDIF as well as AC-3.

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Posted: 19 Jul 2020, 16:27 

The PCB Microcontroller is an Hitachi HD6473238P10..which is still available today.
Checked +5v Supply Voltage present on Microntroller pin 39 and 14 - it is.

This is the link to the datasheet for the Hitachi HD6473238P10
Pins 14 and 39 are Vcc so the fact that you are seeing +5v is a positive and is probably an inidcation that this chip is ok.

Pin 2 on the display is +5v. It looks like pin 3 is the negative voltage and should measure between 0 and -5v. Are you getting these voltages in reference to pin 1 ground?

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Posted: 20 Jul 2020, 12:21 

I feel like we are getting warmer. The only other thing I could suggest is to use a scope to see if you are getting an input pulse and an output pulse from the chip.

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Posted: 23 Jul 2020, 10:02 

Okay so it looks like XL5 is a 3 pin ceramic resonator. I believe these have capacitors built in and may not need external components to work. Im sure its voltage on one pin ground to the middle pin and oscillation from the third pin. I would suggest starting low and slowly ramping up voltage until you see it oscillate. Try it out of circuit.

Only having voltage on Pin 10 (Extal) can make sense because it could be the only clock input on the chip. The voltage might be coming through but the resonator could be damaged and not providing the oscillation. Im assuming that '10.0T' is 10Mhz. If you have a frequency generator you could try to pump 10Mhz into the chip externally.

One thing that stands out to me is the picture of the board. Is that damage to the trace near XL5? or is it just a bit of dust?

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Posted: 25 Jul 2020, 11:30 

Try it and see. As far as my research goes XL5 should resonate with voltage applied so unless we are missing something, that very well could be the cause of the fault.

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Posted: 25 Jul 2020, 15:00 

FWIW, the power LED on the Pioneer RFD-1 demodulator I got used for like $30 5 years ago never lit up, but the unit itself always performed flawlessly.

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Posted: 18 Dec 2020, 05:47 

I'm having problems powering on this player (same problems I've documented in this thread about my Onkyo player so I'm going to re-cap the power board. It suddenly died recently and exhibits a "squeak" from the power board when unplugged.

I've taken the board out and to my horror, the back of the PCB (green side) appears to be coated with some sort of glaze. As a result, I can't remove the caps!

Has anyone encountered this on a LaserDisc player before and has anyone got any advice? A quick Google told me there are several different types of Conformal Coating available (I assume this is what it is?), but I've no idea which one has been used on my LD player.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

EDIT: It's fixed!!

As ldfan identified, the shiny orange-tinted glaze was easily penetrated by my soldering iron. It just took a bit longer to heat up the solder.

For reference, the CLD-D780 power board in my player was model VWR-1247-B (input 240V).

I fixed it by changing all the electrolytic capacitors on the PCB, using the list of caps posted by a Reddit user in the link below:

Here's the caps on the board along with Digikey reference numbers:

c6 - 250v 180uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13309-1-ND
c11 - 250v 180uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13309-1-ND
c12 - 50v 2.2uF ~ Digikey 493-10503-1-ND (see note)
c15 - 400v 10uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13387-ND
c20 - 25v 2200uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1306-ND
c21 - 25v 2200uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1306-ND
c22 - 16v 2200uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-13390-ND
c23 - 16v 10uF (M) ~ Digikey 493-12763-1-ND
c24 - 50v 2.2uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-10503-1-ND
c25 - 50v 2.2uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-10503-1-ND
c27 - 10v 470uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1493-ND
c28 - 25v 100uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-12560-1-ND
c29 - 10v 470uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1493-ND
c30 - 10v 470uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-1493-ND
c31 - 16v 10uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-12763-1-ND
c32 - 35v 100uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-5925-1-ND
c35 - 50v 10uF(M) ~ Digikey 493-5915-1-ND

I replaced all of them except for c20 & c21 because they were glued to the power board and c23 and c31 because I couldn't find a suitable replacement locally. I replaced c6 and c11 with a 250v 220uF because I couldn't find 250v 180uF caps locally. These two caps were quite bulged so figured they'd be the source of the problem (however, they were not...see below)

Note: c12 was not listed in the Reddit post linked above. I replaced all the caps I could see with the exception of the ones above and it still wasn't working. I looked again at the board and spotted c12 which I had previously not noticed. When I unplugged the player, the "squeak" mentioned above seemed to be coming from this very capacitor so I removed it. Interestingly, this cap was polarized BUT the PCB indicated it was a non-polarised cap! I replaced it with a polarized cap (luckily I had a photo so I knew which way it needed to be fitted) and the beast came alive!

Hope this is of help to anyone in the future! Next project is to get the Onkyo up and running!

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Posted: 21 Mar 2021, 16:15 

Tracking issue??? Or centering????

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Posted: 21 Mar 2021, 17:46 

I can't tell if there is something wrong with the gears or servos.

Check for any missing teeth or other defects on the gears on the pickup itself.

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Posted: 22 Mar 2021, 00:57 

The picture of the laser. Is that the flash reflecting on the lens or does it need to be cleaned?

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Posted: 22 Mar 2021, 04:25 

krbahr wrote:
The picture of the laser. Is that the flash reflecting on the lens or does it need to be cleaned?

It does seem to be very cloudy looking but hard to really tell. I guess a cotton swap w/ a pinch of water is a good next step. ;)

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Posted: 22 Mar 2021, 21:08 

Good to know you got it working regardless what the solution was. :thumbup:

I just replaced a ceramic oscillator in my Sony SDP-E800 just over a week ago and still testing for a glitch. It usually has an issue cutting out sound about every 20 days or so on the six channel output only. I’ll update my posting in about 3 weeks if it keeps going fine.

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Posted: 23 Mar 2021, 02:29 

The lens still doesn't look correct on the inner side. It should be a clear focusing lens. Would you put that on a camera?
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