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Posted: 15 Dec 2011, 16:29 

DiscoVision's rotted very early in the packaging, so if it's not rotted now, it won't rot. When I lived in New Mexico, I had virtually no problems with rot, even Sony DADC America titles were/are fine (I just played my DADC copy of Contact the other day and its still perfect). But now that I live in Missouri, with very high humidity, I've had some good discs rot, like my Japanese import 8-inch pressing of "Twist Of Fate" - it was perfect at first, now it's rotted. And I only bought it a year or so ago.

I have some early PAL discs that have turned a bronze color and have what look like coffee stains under the surface - they were clear and clean when new. I don't have a PAL player though, so I can't say if they would still play or not.

Rot always manifests itself as red & blue speckles. Black/White speckling is either tape master errors or pit defects due to a missing half-cycle of the FM carrier - that's a 'pressed in' or mastering defect and won't get worse. Snits (rolling black/white lines) are due to either surface dirt or dust/contaminates under the disc surface and are a pressing defect - and won't get worse.

Your ability to see any of the above defects depends on the frequency response of your player and television - and if you have a good comb filter. The better each is, the easier it is to see the defects. Also, some discs are just pressed 'noisy" and actually look best through a "Channel 3" RF input on a CRT set - the high frequency losses from the RF transmission make most pressing defects much less visible since RF is limited to only 330 lines horizontally and that's only if your set has a comb filter. If it's a notch filter set, then horizontal resolution will be around 3MHz, 260 lines or so. About VHD Video Disc quality.

Oh, and cleaning a disc with Windex won't hurt it a bit. I've done that for 30 years and never had a problem. Pioneer even officially recommended Windex or "Clean & Shine", which I don't think is made anymore.

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 Post subject: Re: VCD section
Posted: 27 Oct 2017, 12:36 

No date release on discs or cover. "For sale and rental in Singapore only" on back cover.
Barcode: 8 888837 006202

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Posted: 28 Oct 2017, 20:42 

The following applies to the majority of Sony AVR's. Check your owner's manual if you have a non-Sony AVR.

On my AVR (Sony DA3300ES), there are a number of inputs on the back. For the DVD input, there are usually 2 analog audio jacks, a composite video jack and a Toslink/coaxial input for digital audio. When there are signals on the DVD inputs, the AVR will take the digital audio over the analog audio for sound. If there is no digital audio, the AVR will switch to the analog audio. For the Sony, this is its normal operation.

Sony SDP-E800:

The E800 has an analog input on the back and you switch to it using the button on the front. Say you have an LD connected to the digital 1 input. This will give you digital sound when you press the digital 1 button on the front. If you want to play an LD without digital sound, you are out of luck with this setup. To get around this, connect the composite video and analog audio outputs of the LD player to the analog analog and video jacks on the back of the E800. Now, connect the front L and R outputs on the back of the E800 to the analog inputs that you are using for the E800 on the back of your AVR. Now when you want to play a non-digital sound LD, you press the analog button on the front of the E800.

You may ask how is the above possible. I found out that when you press the E800's analog button, the red carrier light in the digital out of the E800 is turned off. The lack of the carrier causes a Sony AVR to switch to the analog audio.

As of this writing, I have not tested the above thoroughly yet. Maybe someone else could verify the above.

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Posted: 16 Jan 2018, 23:16 

Yeah, side changes are substantially worse on the W1 than any other player by a mile. It depends on what side you are on and where you are headed but I think Side 2 to Side 3 is the slowest.

Mine recently broke (!) and I haven’t had time to look inside.

Yes, the 2-3 side break is the longest. When I'm playing a 3-sided title, I put the second disc with side 4 up and then tell it to play ABD. This leaves the player mechanism upside down cutting down on the time to flip it back over for side 3.

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Posted: 08 Feb 2018, 01:53 

It's still the only way to capture a laserdisc image of a laserdisc as there is no way to link up a laserdisc player to a computer.

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Posted: 01 Apr 2018, 07:19 

Have you ever considered just taking some good photos and putting them on a blog with a written commentary? I don't understand why these need to be presented in a video format.

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Posted: 01 May 2018, 01:10 

Hello All,

TLDR: I'm looking for the Videodiscovery Math Sleuths laserdisc and teacher's guide.

I've been collecting laserdiscs since 2013 and my father has poked fun at me for doing so occasionally. However a few months ago, out of the blue, he tells me he was on a team for making a math themed educational laserdisc. :o I have been doing weeks worth of research on the product and it seems it was a market flop. It is not even listed in the LDDb.

My father was hired as an "Instructional Specialist" as he was a mathematics professor at the time at a local state university. Essentially he overlooked the curriculum side of the production.

https://imgur.com/sVQqJUL.jpeg https://imgur.com/sVQqJUL

Videodisc overy was a Seattle educational company who distributed their video curriculum on Laserdisc instead of VHS. They were able to utilize the barcode reader to jump around the disc quickly.

https://imgur.com/DDZjgQH.jpeg https://imgur.com/DDZjgQH
https://imgur.com/j4iwqsn.jpeg https://imgur.com/j4iwqsn
https://imgur.com/ge3ufl9.jpeg https://imgur.com/ge3ufl9
https://imgur.com/kLd1vrk.jpeg https://imgur.com/kLd1vrk

I have his acceptance letter, student resource guide, and the promotional pamphlet, but my father and I would love to find the actual laserdisc and watch it. If anyone know how I can get my hands on the disc please let me know.

https://imgur.com/w0EuPFI.jpeg https://imgur.com/w0EuPFI
https://imgur.com/5PJ4Att.jpeg https://imgur.com/5PJ4Att

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Posted: 20 May 2018, 22:33 

All,

I started working on a scratch built AC3-RF output board 10 years ago but never got anywhere with it when I couldn't get it to work. So a couple of months ago, I got the itch to finally get it done and found that I had my mute control transistor wired up incorrectly. :problem:

So here are some images of the board and the player that I used for the experiment (a Pioneer, CLD-2090 clone in case anyone was wondering ;) ).


Schematic that I used to create the board
https://vgy.me/aR6JaE.gif

Top view of the board
https://vgy.me/eWmnBg.jpg

Bottom view of the board
https://vgy.me/Uk5QGl.jpg

Size comparison of the scratch built board and a BDE custom made board w/ surface mount components
https://vgy.me/dMTWFy.jpg

Solder points in the player for the board (+5V = red, -5V = blue, GND = green, Mute = yellow, AFM = coax wire)
https://vgy.me/9SCXvP.jpg

The board installed w/ all wires connected
https://vgy.me/c6mOkI.jpg

Wide view showing the board and RCA jack
https://vgy.me/jU1AW8.jpg

RCA jack internal view
https://vgy.me/gSuDo7.jpg

RCA jack external view
https://vgy.me/DNMOgj.jpg

The player playing an AC3 disc w/ Sony SDP-E800 showing a lock ("discrete" indicator lighted)
https://vgy.me/Rrb5sI.jpg


So now that I have successfully made this board a reality, now it's time to make more of them so I can get the rest of my players up to the AC-3 RF spec. My next version will be on a board half the size (this one was bigger than it had to be but I was learning along the way so I needed space to figure it out).

Hope everyone enjoyed the images. It's quite exciting that I can now make these boards from scratch since all my past player retrofits were always from DIY kits that unfortunately are no longer available to purchase.

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Posted: 23 May 2018, 16:07 


When buying a certain box set it was a dollar to yen price, for example 120,000 yen was 120 dollars.


120,000 yen is closer to $1200
Yes, sorry it was early.
12,000 would have been 120.00

And as zeta said, its all true, the Aliens have taken over the LD market :lol:

But seriously, these things are worthless to others, only the very special few who troll the internet or ebay.
If you take these to an auction house or flea market you will be lucky to get a buck each and that will be after someone cherry picks those
titles to sell on the internet since they have a little more money than the fleamarketeer who has no internet connection and are just going day
by day making endsmeet.

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Posted: 09 Jun 2018, 03:52 

He was on LDDb.com 9 days ago but hasn't visited the forum since April.

I'm closing his shop since he can't be contacted.

Julien

This is a shame and technically he can be contacted. I personally PMed him on FB to tell him this post was here and he apparently is choosing to ignore it. He did respond to my PM so he is aware, this goes back weeks.

He did contact me after receiving "Shop was closed" notification and I pointed to this topic as the main reason (+ unanswered PMs).

=> PUBLIUS, could you step in and get everything back to normal?

Julien

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Posted: 19 Aug 2018, 15:59 

I think the 2009 batch of DVL's were the last ones Pioneer could economically build - there are several LD-only IC's which even if they still were available new wouldn't meet ROHS specs.

You might, just might be able to build 1000 for $1000 (edit: each!), but there probably aren't enough people willing to pay that much.

In a decade or two someone might bother to build a one-off machine to scan a Laserdisc and do the equivalent of a Kyroflux - assuming I'm still around I'd be up for helping with that. ;) (and if I'm not hopefully the code I've written will be useful regardless...)

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Posted: 23 Aug 2018, 16:47 

Again, I love how this fantasy is going on when most collectors won't spend more than 5 bucks on an LD and even more just
have these expensive titles in their wishlist and will never really buy it.

Then how can you expect anybody to spend one thousand dollars on a player when you never did when they were new.

Hell, they can't even spend 300.00 on a nice 97 now, and you think they will spend 1000+ on new players??????????

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 Post subject: Delights of selling LDs
Posted: 29 Aug 2018, 20:33 

Whenever I complete a happy transction with a collector it reminds me of why I turned my hobby into a little side business. As a movie collector I remember the dark pit that opened in my stomach when I realized the title I wanted was not in any store on Earth, and was often not available on line either. After going from collector to collector looking for a title I wanted, it became my goal to stock my shop with all the offbeat connoisseur stuff that is so hard to acquire.

Thanks to all of you who have used my shop as I hoped. It's so much more rewarding to sell on LDDb than anywhere else.

I'd like to hear from other sellers about why they opened a shop here, and any suggestions from collectors on how the shops can be improved.

John

G and J Rarities

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Posted: 15 Sep 2018, 15:17 

Very happy to read these posts, keeps my faith in collectors of LDs who actually watch them on screens as well as on their shelves.

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Posted: 20 Sep 2018, 21:58 

You just need a compressor. The whole music industry uses them by the ton, there are a million different brands and models. A compressor is a device that reduces the level above a certain threshold (you can set it) and by a certain amount, i.e. a ratio (again, you can set it as you like). If you want to compress a source (say, the output of a stereo laserdisc), you'll just need a stereo one. Otherwise you'll need more than one to compress multiple channels. If you want I can explain better.

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 Post subject: Re: Squeeze LD
Posted: 09 Oct 2018, 03:42 

I guess C isn't watching any LDs on a regular basis.

https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=8033

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Posted: 14 Oct 2018, 23:07 

most LD's (that weren't pitched etc) are as good as the day they were made... but the Domesday disks were made at the PDO UK plant, so they're screwed in a decade or so as the edgerot creeps in.

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Posted: 02 Nov 2018, 04:10 

He needs to try a CD as analog audio can work with low RF levels. If cleaning the laser lens when you have it open doesn’t help then you either have a weak laser output or you have 3 Laserdiscs with laserrot.

If it cannot play a CD then the RF level is weak.

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 Post subject: Re: Image problem
Posted: 24 Nov 2018, 15:55 

>rein-o

Thank you

The monitor is a PC display
I do not have such a function

But DVDO DUO is multi-functional
Aspect ratio can be changed

Certainly, this Madonna movie
It is not a disc with beautiful image quality

When I saw Godzilla (CAV)
I saw a beautiful picture like a DVD

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Posted: 01 Dec 2018, 08:47 

Possess

It is a big gimmick sound.

It is a unique individual
I am using it when viewing CAV software

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 Post subject: Re: WTB: Pioneer LD-S2
Posted: 08 Dec 2018, 13:04 

Hint for everyone when buying players from Japan use zenmarket, they use FedEx as a shipping option which is MUCH cheaper to ship large heavy boxes with.

I get X9's in 3-4 days for approx $125 shipping. I just paid approx $150.00 for a 55 pound package with a Kenwood LVD-Z1 in it and an HLD-X0 based on weight (100 lbs packed) would cost between $400 and $500 for same 3-4 day FedEx.

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Posted: 01 Jan 2019, 18:01 

This has turned into a very interesting thread with it all summed up rather eloquently in a few posts here.

Enjoy the big discs for whatever they are "worth" to you.

Cheers

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Posted: 05 Jan 2019, 14:58 

There are actually decent telecine solutions today for both 16 and 35mm film. In comparison to Datacine and similar solutions (Scanity, GoldenEye, Cintel etc) their main pro is speed, which is certainly a factor for all those thousands of newsreels and such that the archives want digitized in high quality but don't feel like spending more than a couple of years to complete. Modern professional cameras are actually in many cases more than good enough to capture most of the information from celluloid film right away unless it's in rather poor condition - especially if the colors are very faded. In those cases you really want high quality RAW or DPX files to work with rather than ProRes. Most telecine machines nowadays offer quite decent grade solutions which may not remove the need of post-grading completely but it makes the entire process so much easier.

I've been working with a Blackmagic Cintel 2 scanner for the past month and it's really fantastic considering its pricepoint. It does have certain flaws, like the lack of WTW coverage (though BTB is still intact) and the bayern sensor can be a bit noisy if you're not using the chroma NR tools in Davinci but overall I'm pretty much stunned. However, if you're visiting TV studios and film archives you'll actually notice that many of them have rebuilt their old telecine scanners from the 80s and 90s by reverse engineering so they now output HD formats instead. Quite fascinating to say the last. I'd really love to get hold of an old Mark 3 or something like that for a low price and try to make it useable in a modern, digital workflow at some point.

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Posted: 07 Jan 2019, 00:36 

yeah same reason I prefer my DYRL? LD to my remastered DVD.

The LD of old shows always looks ideal, it's also actually the way people saw it at the time, you can't change history or make history "better" by using current technology. It's wrong.

I want the same experience of a guy with cash, taste and knowledge circa 1990. That hasn't changed since 1990 when I was a 12 year old kid drooling over this stuff in Japanese magazines and at other people's houses.

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Posted: 01 Feb 2019, 05:52 

send me a PM both of you and I will send the remotes as quickly as possible
so to be clear:
gypsy-the multiplay remote for the cd changer/LD model
signofzeta-barcode scanner
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