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 Post subject: Re: Belt for CLD-R7G
Posted: 06 Nov 2020, 00:32 

Buy a SCQ3.8 if you want to have one sitting around. It’s the same mechanism used for the CLD-D504/604/505/605/406/606 US models.

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 Post subject: Re: Belt for CLD-R7G
Posted: 12 Nov 2020, 02:27 

If you want the VEB1184 get it now as other threads stated Pioneer laserdisc support has ended. The SCQ3.8 is a generic belt and always available.

OK, that's great to know the VEB1184 belt also fits the CLDR7G as it also fits my other player the DVL-909. :thumbup:
I thought this belt only fit certain Pioneer players and not the R7G?'

Belt VEB1184 is this only for the tray mechanism or does it also fit for side turn mechanism on both players R7G and the DVL-909?

Thanks

The mechanism for the R7G is the same one they started using in LD players with the CLD-D604, no belt for turning the mechanism, laser movement gear just rides a track to the other side.

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Posted: 12 Nov 2020, 03:40 

Radiance XS is over 12 years old now. You will see some units failing as any 10 plus year old electronics. You can still reach out to Lumagen support and they will sell you a replacement power supply and repair your XS for a fee if it breaks. Just keep in mind, this was a $4,500 device when new, replacement parts and repairs aren’t going to be cheap. You can buy an aftermarket power supply at your own risk or try to repair the original one. It’s a switch mode power supply, it can’t be many more than just a single capacitor in there. I would just get the replacement from Lumagen. It can’t be much worse than $60-80.

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 Post subject: Re: Lumagen XS-3D scaler
Posted: 13 Nov 2020, 23:34 

Tonight I watched an LD with the new tweaks on my telly.
Previously I had all enhancement features enabled but DNR disabled, picture was soft and I saw clouding smear on the screen.
Tonight watching the LD with all enhancement features disabled, I got a more clean and crispier picture.
The Lumagen XS-3D is a great scaler providing great improvement. :thumbup:

I don't recommend watching LD without a scaler not hooked up to a flatscreen TV, colors and details will look washed out, skin tones would look brownish or orange.
Explosions and fires will look funky showing red hue.
The scaler remedies these problems :thumbup:

If you still use a CRT, this is the best sidekick for your laserdisc player.

It was a real treat watching a laserdisc movie with the Lumagen on flatscreen TV :D

Good to hear you are getting a good result now :thumbup: Although regarding you comment about flatscreen TVs, they are of course not all made equal as if you were to splash out on one of the more recent OLED models from Sony, Panasonic etc. a fantastic image is possible from LD by hooking directly into the TVs composite input without any need of an external processor, and I think you'll find that there are several members on here who will verify that.

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 Post subject: Re: Belt for CLD-R7G
Posted: 14 Nov 2020, 11:43 

I have taken apart my DVL-909 and I'm by no means a skilled electronics repairman, just an amateur that have progressed over the years by dissasembling multiple players to get to several parts. If you take your time you will get to the belt without too much of a problem. The CLD-R7G ain't that complex, like many older players are. I believe I have read the CLD-R7G has an Epsilon turn mechanism. Briefly browsing some service manuals for other players with an epsilon turn mechanism, I cannot find a belt part number. It may not have a belt for the turn mechanism at all.
Remember, the DVL-909/919 have two separate optical laser mechanisms that flips around in addition to changing sides and The CLD-R7G has only one optical laser mechanism.

The part number for the turn mechanism here is VEB1184, the same as the loading belt part number.

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Posted: 21 Jun 2021, 14:38 

Don't touch your TV settings when calibrating for laserdisc if you have a scaler and you use the same TV settings for other sources; just change your scaler's settings. The results are always a function of your player's, scaler's, and TV's settings, but there are multiple solutions to the puzzle. You can get good results without impacting other sources by adjusting only the scaler to fit the other two.

Think of it this way: the numbers in your scaler's menu don't have to be the same (indeed shouldn't be the same) as other people's: they just have to be right for your player and your TV. That's why calibration exists.

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 Post subject: Re: What is CX?
Posted: 03 Nov 2022, 16:29 

On most players, disc with a signal to auto turn on CX will lock it on, preventing it from being turned off

CX lowers noise for better audio quality, yes

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 Post subject: Re: What is CX?
Posted: 03 Nov 2022, 17:50 

CX was also added for this reason per its Wikipedia page.....

While CX greatly improved the audio quality of LaserDisc's FM audio tracks, its primary reason for adoption was to decrease the amount of interference between the right channel's FM audio carrier and the video carrier's first chroma sideband. Without CX, strict filtering during mastering and playback as well as keeping color saturation below 75% on the master were required to keep any interference below −35 dB, which ensured that no beats or other artifacts were visible in the demodulated image.


You can read the entire entry here....

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CX_(noise_reduction)

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 Post subject: Re: What is CX?
Posted: 03 Nov 2022, 19:40 



Great info, thanks buddy :thumbup:

When I play discs which can shift between CX settings I should always keep it in CX-STEREO mode for best audio quality?


In most cases, you don't have to do anything.

CX in a high percentage of discs already have a flag in place to turn it on and prevent the user from overriding it (as crashoveride already stated). Thus, you simply let the player do its thing. On Digital Sound discs, it doesn't even matter at all since the digital tracks do not utilize CX so it's irrelevant.

On the rare analog audio only audio discs where there is no flag and thus you can choose to keep CX on or off, you should probably look to the jacket or the disc itself for the CX mark as that would mean the disc is encoded but you have to manually turn it on. If there is no CX logo anywhere, best to keep it off.

Also, as signofzeta mentioned, don't get hung up on this "CX-Stereo" indicator. They are two separate things. The reason you see it is because you must have one of the newer players where Pioneer combined all the Digital, Analog, and CX functions into one button on the remote (e.g.: "D/A CX"). On older players, we have two buttons labeled something like "Auto Digital Analog" and "CX".

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Posted: 19 Nov 2022, 18:29 

I have a friend who has a Kramer scaler for sale.
This scaler only has Composite analogue inputs and the rest are HDMI in and outputs.
This scaler has the 3D combfilter and time base correction TBC improving picture quality.

On my current setup from CLD-R7G to scaler to TV I use the S-video.
I have high-end cables and receive a very good and clean picture.
However which one of the two comb filters is (enabled) primary cleaning TV picture from artefacts, the CLD-R7G filter or scaler filter?

The other question is:
If I get the Kramer unit from my friend I can only connect Composite from my CLD-R7G to Kramer.
I assume the comb filter on my R7G will be disabled and Kramer comb filter will be the primary one?
Is it worth using composite over S-video for an improved picture quality?
Any info about this?

First question, If your using the R7G s-video output it is the onboard comb filter of the LD player that is enabled not that of the TV. Second question, and I’m sure most 7G owners on here will confirm is that the 7Gs output via composite is pretty lack-lustre whichever video processor or TV you run it to so with this player unlike most others stick with S-video :thumbup:

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Posted: 19 Nov 2022, 19:14 

Laserfan is right.
Garbage in=Garbage out.

Start with the best signal from the source which on the R7G is by and far S-Video

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Posted: 19 Nov 2022, 21:14 

And for what its worth, I’m 100% with what the other guy's are advising. The only reason that I sold my 7G on was due to the fact that I’d spent an arm & a leg on a then new Lumagen Radiance 2144 for use with my other LD players (CLD-925 & HLD-X9) but couldn’t use it to full advantage with the 7G, believe me when I say its comb filter is xxxx times superior to the X9, save your money for something else!

Never owned a 909 but most likely only fitted with basic 2d comb filter (substance?) the X9 does have 3d filter but not on a par with later iteration installed in 7G. Id wager that the 909 on composite could look better via Kramers 3d filter though, Lumagen XS I believe has only 2d filter.

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Posted: 19 Nov 2022, 23:54 

Both my 925 and older 2950 look superb running PAL LDs via the 2144, the 2950 gives a somewhat softer more analog type image that suits some types of program (to my eyes) better than the more digital looking 925 although on a really nice transfer with low chroma noise etc. the 925 would be my choice. The X9 can look really amazing on the best transfers as you would expect, everything is running through composite as the 2144 has arguably the best comb filter available.

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Posted: 20 Nov 2022, 00:34 

Both my 925 and older 2950 look superb running PAL LDs via the 2144, the 2950 gives a somewhat softer more analog type image that suits some types of program (to my eyes) better than the more digital looking 925 although on a really nice transfer with low chroma noise etc. the 925 would be my choice. The X9 can look really amazing on the best transfers as you would expect, everything is running through composite as the 2144 has arguably the best comb filter available.

Ok, thanks for the lovely review.

Wonder what 2144 would go for today?
Is it only available to buy as a trade in from previous owner @ Lumagen?

They do very occasionally come up as if my memory serves me correct someone offered one on here, I think it was maybe last year? don’t think he found a buyer for it then sold it on eBay I think? I imagine a used one would easily fetch 2.5K €/£ upwards maybe Lumagen do get the occasional trade in? They also have official dealers in Europe, one in the UK the other in Italy at the time I purchased mine several years ago, if I spot one available here I’ll let you know :thumbup:

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Posted: 20 Nov 2022, 20:44 

Laserfan it does a great job but alas unable to bring the picture up to R7G quality.

Noogle it is possible older but still does a good job and gets the rare Jake Heke stamp of approval.

Another member here TED has a R7G with a DVDO and sings its praises

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Posted: 22 Dec 2022, 23:33 

I have worked on R7G's with the gray colored problem MHolder. I have had to replace these. The CLD-R7G is one of the service manuals I don't have.

ALL DVL-XXX machines I have seen had better MHolders, and the service manual has the newer part number.

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 Post subject: Re: Fan inside scaler
Posted: 15 Jan 2023, 05:06 

All my Lumagens have their fan speed manually set to 10/10. This keeps the chipsets at around 50C versus 65C on auto. These chipsets are safe up to 92C but lower temps theoretically will increase longevity. At the highest fan speed they are audible if exposed. Mine are rack mounted, I can’t hear them.

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 Post subject: Re: Lumagen VS Kramer????
Posted: 16 Jan 2023, 11:29 

I apologise in advance for being unable to help with your original question. I just wanted to express my disappointment that this thread wasn't titled Kramer vs Kramer. :(

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Posted: 28 Jan 2023, 00:36 



America is the greatest country on the planet. We press the best discs.

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Posted: 31 Jan 2023, 00:45 

You have to interpret what little rot data exists carefully. These are all unverified user submissions and there aren’t enough of them to be statistically accurate. Also all of this data was collected after LD died. What discs rotted in-period, for people who took care of them, honestly, is different than the question of what still hasn’t rotted decades later in the hands of collectards and Youtubbers.

Obviously a disc pressing plant in Japan will be cleaner than one in the US. However…people in the US are more likely to store their LDs in large stacks in a non-air conditioned garage in Alabama for 20 years too, which doesn’t help their condition one bit.

Rot is a boring topic, done to death. People are way way too obsessed with it.

Obsession is no good for health going ----> :crazy:
Wasting money on rotted discs could be very annoying if you ask me.


Hi noogie-man,

Yes, wasting money on rotted discs is very annoying. I'll do my best to break it down for you, and keep in mind, this is coming from someone with 35+ years of collecting experience. Pioneer USA is an extremely reliable manufacturing plant, not quite as good as Pioneer Japan or the other Japanese plants, but still very good indeed. In fact, Pioneer USA is the most reliable American plant, along with 3M, in my opinion. In very general terms, here is the breakdown of what you need to avoid/watch out for: 1.)Any disc manufactured before 1985 is suspect, REGARDLESS of manufacturing plant. Yes, this includes ALL Discovision titles, and even those from Japanese plants! If the seller is unable or unwilling to check the playback quality of a pre-1985 title, I would avoid it. Look for another seller who is able and willing to check it before you buy it, if you really want to own it. It is VERY rare to find a Pioneer USA disc made after 1985 with rot. 2.) Any 3M disc made during 1988-89 should be closely checked before purchase. During this period, 3M had a unique problem which no other plant had. Some copies of 3M titles pressed during this period have spots made into the data layer of the disc which you can actually see with the naked eye when looking at the disc in good lighting conditions. If you see any such spots on the disc, AVOID it like the plague! It is almost certain to be rotted and worthless! 3.) Any Technidisc title from the early period (1985-86) should be closely checked before purchase. These are the discs with the very bold looking mint markings, having the TV-shaped Hewlett Packard-type logo and a date from 1985 or 1986. Almost all of these are severely rotted. Those from the later periods of Technidisc's manufacturing cycle (those without the Technidisc name in the mint markings, and those with the very small font size mint markings) are normally very reliable, and have very low occurrence of rot. 4.) All DADC USA discs from 1995 on should be checked before purchase. These are the ones with batch numbers of 2700 or higher in the mint markings. These have VERY HIGH occurrence of rot. That's pretty much everything you need to know about what to avoid. I hope that helps.

David

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Posted: 21 Feb 2023, 14:30 

noogie-man wrote:
pbiancardi wrote:
I have two words for anyone still using Lumagen products - MadVR Envy.


what is this device, what does it do?
what does it improve?
where do I buy one?


It is hands down the best video processor ever made - the upscaling blows Lumagen completely out of the water.

madvrenvy.com

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Posted: 08 Apr 2023, 04:53 

Yes, a soft micro Fibre cloth or old cotton t shirt wipes the blemishes away in my experience.
No worries, mostly dust patterns noted from long storage.

Cheers

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Posted: 15 Apr 2023, 20:05 

I've never heard of a disc splitting in half by itself, but it doesn't have to completely fall apart for the disc to become unusable. Anyway, now that I read further, my explanation was incomplete: there are a few other factors that can cause disc rot (the player's laser is not one of them, despite the term "laser rot"). The Wikipedia page is worth reading: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_rot

The way you're storing them is good: cool, dry, and vertical is the way to go.

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 Post subject: Re: What is CX?
Posted: 15 Jun 2023, 22:51 

I'll just add a couple thins from my experience and some that are anecdotal so take them for what they're worth.

As far as manually turning CX off. In my experience from a couple Pioneer players I've owned including a CLD-D503, you have "old" discs pre-1985 mostly that are Analog only and then you have discs that have Digital and Analog soundtracks. So the D/A button on the remote will turn CX on and off only on the old Analog only. Discs. If the discs has Digital and Analog it just switch between Analog and Digital. If you have an old Analog only disc give it a try it's fun to hear what CX actually does. Definitely takes away a lot of noise.

As far as Analog being "better" than Digital, yeah obviously not spec wise. Digital/CD 'can be' amazing! But look at Duran Duran was PA-83-044, Analog only. The audio on that disc is from the 1/2" master that used a DBX 150 I believe which basically doubled the dynamic range to a total of 115db something that digital systems were just starting to be able to do. According to the person on LDDB he also agrees the CD was inferior. (Later CD re-releases were improved of course) But it is possible the Analog tracks could have a better transfer than what is on digital.

Same with some of the Police/Sting discs I have. Some of the analog tracks for me sound amazing. I know Digital/CD was notorious for a time for having bad digital transfers that compressed everything from the original master recordings. Not that much of an expert the analog tracks on some of the videos you can hear more of the high notes of the guitar and high hats. At least seems like it when I've played around switching back and forth. Again, that doesn't mean I believe Analog is better, no I firmly believe Digital/CD is basically overkill almost for what my ears. But it comes down to the who, how or where the transfer came from. For movies I would guess Analog is a downgrade most times, but for older movies where the original soundtrack was analog? I don't know. Again, depends if they over compressed the digital version and maybe just dumped the original analog. Maybe the more untouched analog could sound better in some ways? I'm sure they're are people that know a lot about sound tracks and things, which I don't but I do find interesting.

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Posted: 15 Dec 2023, 13:11 

noogie-man wrote:
Fine wide switch, could it be only to improve widescreen playback for sharper image?


Possibly blurrier => [CLD-R5] Fine Wide

Julien
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