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Posted: 23 Jun 2020, 20:41 

I bought a Crystalio II not too long back and it came with firmware v2.10pd, which is the projector designs firmware. I wanted to flash it to the original v2.10 firmware. I downloaded it and followed the firmware instructions but it wouldnt work. So I then asked Substance for some advice as he used to own a CII. He suggested that the USB I was using was too large and the CII wasnt recognising it. I was in fact using a 32gb SD card in a USB adapter. So, I scoured ebay for weeks until I found an old Kingston 1GB USB that was still sealed and dated on the back with a vintage of 2007. Using this USB worked! I have successfully upgrdaded to v2.10 firmware. An issue I was having before was that I couldnt find a way to adjust the screen size. It was shifted too far to the left and no matter what I did I could not adjust for it on the Crystalio. So what I did was force overscan on the TV, which worked but was not ideal as the TV is not in full pixel mode. Luckily that has been resolved now.

So I'm putting this out there for anyone else who has the same issue.

Instructions can be found here . You can download the firmware here .

Thanks to Substance. :thumbup:

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Posted: 20 Sep 2021, 15:04 

Is the pickup a Sony? Should say something like KHS-130A near the lens.

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Posted: 21 Sep 2021, 14:31 

I will say I was not impressed on the T8000 I worked on. Was basically just a CLD-D702/D760 with audio tapped running to EAD board installed behind notch.

Swap should be able to be done, but as I said before make sure you don't unscrew anything that is common across both KHS-130A. Attached is an image from the CDV400 SM, where 051M, 052M should be fine to remove.

Make a separate post on MLD7020. One of us here might be able to help. Kurtis knows that player well.

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Posted: 22 Sep 2021, 01:43 


Cant see the image of the SM….
That is because I forgot to attach it. :lol:

Im kinda stubborn…
Perfect quality for anyone attempting LD repair in 2021.

And hints on how to get it in service mod and aligning the Pickup?
If you don't have an oscilloscope, you don't need to enter test mode.

Poorly written (and potentially damaging ) guidelines based on CDV400 (which I know little about) if you have neither scope or test disc:
Attempt playback. If it will not, adjust focus gain.
Skip to last minute of the longest CLV you have. Adjust tilt until no crosstalk. Then skip to first minute and ensure no crosstalk. If still crosstalk adjust LD focus balance.
Check for any skipping and adjust tracking if so. Balance > Gain
Dial RF gain down until you see dropouts and then dial back up until you don't.
Put in a CAV and freeze frame for a while at first minute of disc and last minute to make sure it doesn't jump.
Play CD. Adjust CD focus balance until it sounds good.

You really need an oscilloscope and test disc.

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Posted: 22 Sep 2021, 23:46 

I'd go with an analog scope if you have the space. I have a similar digital Tektronix and the eye pattern is nowhere near as clean as my analog one.

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 Post subject: FYI: LaserParts.net
Posted: 21 Oct 2022, 13:53 

Hi all, I've been slowly expanding my catalog of laserdisc player reproduction parts. I've created a website to house my eBay links. I've chimed in on various threads where pertinent, but figured it would be worth making a separate thread in case anyone was curious about replacement parts in general. 2 main highlights are replacement m-holders and grip rings of my own design and manufacture. I've also recreated a number of gears and odds and ends that are common breakage points in Pioneer players. Feel free to reach out to me here on the forums or contact me via the email listed on the site:

http://www.laserparts.net

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/5iOMIDe4IHNCrWHN47q9YojjjaML_5OXwAD0rTDt4L1G-ym50rTj6-x652tYAPJhvYgiFBJ3z8N15PvEKbYCvaQZz2OqKi1q4nJlyrQMtRKjSTKaSAto5M-LWlnSqZ0zdA=w1280

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 Post subject: Re: FYI: LaserParts.net
Posted: 23 Oct 2022, 16:09 

Trusted seller and a stellar human being. Buy with confidence. I've bought belts, grip rings and helped with the spindle motor bushing. Never not satisfied with the communication or the parts.

This is the ONLY place to get some of these parts and he has done extensive testing with constant improvement.

His passion for this is unparalleled - even to your need for the parts!

I'm over due on placing an order myself...you can never have enough belts!

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 Post subject: Re: MSB LS1 ..any info?
Posted: 20 Dec 2022, 04:14 

This MSB LS1 looks different than the ones posted here.

There is at least 3 versions of the LS-1:

https://www.lddb.com/search_hardware.php?adv_search_hw=*&brand=41&device=laserdisc

MSB LS-1
MSB LS-1 Gold
MSB LS-1 Platinum

Some were clones of Panasonic LX-600 , others of Panasonic LX-900 .

Probably not worth the $700 the eBay item is asking for .

Julien

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 Post subject: Re: MSB LS1 ..any info?
Posted: 22 Dec 2022, 01:57 

This is in a grey area. It's based on a Panasonic 600/900 which is a solid player but not worth $600 on its own. MSB version has nice cosmetic updates and potentially a few minor tweaks under the hood. It is super rare too. This is one item you want to sit on selling until someone who really wants the looks and the MSB badge comes along.

I would say if you are local and can go pick it up, kindly offer half and see what he says.

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 Post subject: Re: MSB LS1 ..any info?
Posted: 22 Dec 2022, 15:49 

wildwall9 wrote:
…this one is just kinda odd ,with the rolled metal top.or is it?



Looks like Plexiglas to my eye...

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Posted: 23 Jan 2023, 16:59 

What would a MLD 7020 ..in a factory sealed box be worth?
Im taking offers ..reserve price…starting at beachfront property in Malibu…lol

Given the non-zero chance that the player might not work inside the box (damage in previous transit, belts needing replacement, etc.)... You'd have to open and test it before it's worth anything significant.

Julien

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 Post subject: Re: EAD power board
Posted: 24 Jan 2023, 05:32 

The small hidden 1uf capacitor on the left primary side is the startup capacitor for the power supply, when that goes bad the supply will not turn on. It could be going bad. The secondary sides of these boards are the same, the primary is different to accommodate 120VAC verses 240VAC. These do not have ARC suppressors so that is not the issue. In the middle of the boards the 2 each 2200uf caps are for +/-14V outputs, the 3300uf cap is for +5V and the 1000uf cap is -5V outputs

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 Post subject: Re: Re-Capping power board
Posted: 30 Jan 2023, 00:58 

I'd have to google search what that CE85 degrees C means, about heat???
Otherwise get any of the ones you posted.
Where do I message my address, and will you supply the food :lol:

Voltage and Uf are the important things, since you found exact you are fine, I think you can get higher voltages as an example but Uf needs to be correct.
Uf Microfarads. Good luck.

You just need to make sure the cap can stand the heat since its larger and has that on the side, or did you ask them that? They should
answer you better than I can.

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 Post subject: Re: Re-Capping power board
Posted: 30 Jan 2023, 16:08 

Yeah, 105c caps should last longer than 85c in general. Might be overkill for some cases but it's only a small price increase to get 105c.

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 Post subject: Re: MSB LS1 ..any info?
Posted: 31 Jan 2023, 21:17 

Here's that Video Magazine review of the LS-1 that I posted previously but the host site has been dissolved . . .

Attachment:
MSB_LS1-1.jpg


Attachment:
MSB_LS1-2.jpg

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Posted: 12 Feb 2023, 06:24 

This is an older model, no arc suppressor. Try replacing C108, the small 1uf capacitor on the primary side of the power supply. Make sure sure check the part to see the voltage rating of the capacitor.

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Posted: 13 Mar 2023, 16:30 

Well done and great job! Its always nice when people help each other.

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Posted: 18 Mar 2023, 00:14 

try mouser.
Good luck
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