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 Post subject: Re: New to LD
Posted: 01 May 2022, 16:44 

+1 for being a Hackers fan, you gotta snag that on LD when you get a chance.

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Posted: 03 May 2022, 17:28 

Hi there!

I am trying to document any info I can about installation points for AC-3 modding LD players. I want to post it all online to make it freely available for posterity. A friend and I just designed a very cheap AC-3 board that will be open sourced and released for anyone who wants to build one. If there is interest, I may also do a run of these in the $20-$30 each range. Basically I found this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255490712996 and found the price HIGHLY offensive. But that's just me, and not EXACTLY the point of this post!

So, I'm on the hunt for at the very least, service manuals for ANY player basically, then I'll dig through and try to make install guides. There is some info here and there, such as a great guide for the cld-702 (one I've followed and used to add AC-3 to my 702), and some install photos that may be useful, but not much concrete. I know there were people doing installs some years ago, so I'm certain that somewhere there are install guides or at least install points with diagrams. I want to get EVERYTHING posted (likely on consolemods.org, a new wiki we at retrorgb.com are trying to help grow and grow), any service/user manuals available, AC-3 mod install points/guides, gerbers for the PCB we designed, BOM, and general helpful tips for doing these mods.

Any info anybody has would be super useful, from "I have a pic of an installed mod" to "I have 100 install guides."

Thanks in advance!

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Posted: 12 May 2022, 22:53 

I liked the 99S's design better (in particular the screen) and it was cheaper
It is an upgrade over the CLD-3030, but the problem with this chassis is it has way too much plastic. You have great electronics bound by a plastic chassis that has not aged well. The tray gears commonly break, and the plastic that holds the slider can as well (much more problematic).

I assume the 99S is not one of those JP players that has "hidden" support for 120v?
I have never really looked into the newer power supplies. I just swap them. Either way, the voltage it was designed for is marked on the board (not to be confused with fuse voltage ratings). If there is no indication of voltage on the board, fall back to what is written on the back of the unit.

Older power supplies are substantially better built than those found in later CLDs, but less forgiving. Particularly any model like the CLD-99S that has a separate power supply for the audio section. AC runs directly from transformer to audio board where it is rectified and filtered. From what I see, the only fuse that hopefully exists would be a thermal fuse in the transformer. Below is the CLD-99S audio section. AC is disconnected in the photo since I pulled the power supply, but it comes in to CN54 (to the right of CN49 which is connected near the center of the image).
VWV1030-A.jpg

The proper way to run this model at 120V would be to find out if there is a winding for it. If so, connect J1, J2 appropriately. Below is the top of the primary side.
CLD-99S_XT.jpeg

Under the transformer (primary on top):
CLD-99S_XB.jpeg

I am making assumptions here, so someone please correct me if I am wrong.

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Posted: 15 May 2022, 01:05 

Does this mean that the 99S has similar internal settings to the 3030?
For the power supply, everything on the secondary side looks the same but I did not look hard. I did connect the CLD-99S power supply to 100V and 120V to measure the output going to the audio board. At 100V it was 32V and at 120V it was 40V. Here they are side-by-side since I had both desoldered:
Power_Supplies.jpg

Will be sure to open my 919 again before plugging it directly into US power.
I am curious to see what is marked on the board. These can be swapped, but the downside is the North American boards have the surge suppression flaw.

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Posted: 18 May 2022, 01:32 

I just posted that more or less to archive it since I had both desoldered. They might look similar, but the transformers are different. The world probably won't end if you test it on 120V, but I personally would not run it on anything other than 100V.

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Posted: 18 May 2022, 01:38 

I didn't want to say anything since it was already in transit, but the biggest issue would be it arriving safely rather than voltage.

Check the spots in the photos here: https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9953

Based off video, pickup seems to be moving fine so piece in first photo is probably fine.

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Posted: 18 May 2022, 02:35 

Check if that little black knob is snapped off in second photo. It fits into the white cam gear below it in photo. If when pressing front or back of rail the pickup slides along feels loose it is probably snapped. You will have to help it.

Just unplug it, tilt it on the side and remove bottom copper plate. Get loading/unloading working by manually turning white gear that is under the headphones port. Don't apply power until you get whatever plastic that is broken repaired.

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Posted: 18 May 2022, 14:34 

That video should be able to help you get to the tray gears. Out of all of them, that is probably the most common issue. You can glue them (make sure you put the rod back through it first), but it might be a little rattly. We really need 3D printed replacements for these. Probably the second most common failure on LD-V8000 as well.

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Posted: 22 May 2022, 21:24 

How are manufacturer details determined for LDs? I have two Lupin III boxsets (TV Perfection BOX and Theater Box) that don't have information on many aspects on the DB and wanted to contribute a bit

Hi crashoveride,

All you need to do is do an update from the dedicated page for the release in the database. When you are looking at the page for the release you have, click on "update" in the "user controls" section in the lower left part of the screen. That will take you to the update screen. Just enter the mint markings from your discs in the space on that screen. In most cases, the "Mint-o-Matic" device that Julien has programmed into the database will then automatically tell you which facility manufactured the disc. Usually, the manufacturing plant will appear on the screen next to the mint markings after you enter them in the space provided. The format of the mint markings you enter will allow the Mint-o-Matic to determine where the disc was made. You see, each manufacturing plant used their own unique combination of characters in the mint markings that they etched into the discs. Often, it may be something as simple as one specific character in a specific position in the markings which determines where that disc was pressed. For example, Pioneer Japan normally has a "-P" suffix at the end of the batch number in the mint markings. This is the case with all of their discs, except for the early ones which have hand-scratched mint markings. The Mint-o-matic sometimes has a difficult time deciphering those. Similarly, Kuraray discs normally have a "-K" suffix at the end of the batch numbers. Likewise, the other manufacturing plants each had their own unique "signature" characteristics in their mint markings which enable the Mint-o-Matic to detect their products as well. The only time it doesn't work is when you enter mint markings which don't include any of the "signature" characteristics that Julien has programmed into the device. This usually means that either you didn't enter the markings correctly, or the disc came from an unknown manufacturing plant (i.e. not one of the recognized facilities on the established manufacturers list). Just make sure that you enter all of the correct characters (both numbers and letters) in the correct order from the discs that you own. As long as you carefully enter all of the characters, the Mint-o-Matic will tell you where the disc was made the vast majority of the time. I hope this is helpful to you, and thanks for your interest in contributing information to the database! :thumbup: It's only with the participation of collectors like yourself that the database will continue to grow with more accurate and complete information for the benefit of all in the global LD community!

Best Regards,
David :wave:

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Posted: 06 Jun 2022, 20:57 

Good to know I’ll have spare parts access for my CLD-3030 :thumbup:

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Posted: 07 Jun 2022, 17:24 

I'm the one doing the replacement gear. Made a couple of revisions to ensure a proper fit on the shaft. Ready to rock!

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Posted: 23 Jun 2022, 17:42 

Synchro gears now available for purchase. Search VXA1163, DXB1108 on ebay and you'll find them.

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Posted: 14 Jul 2022, 05:01 

As C++ emphasized about the chassis being bent, this might illustrate it better since I can say I have had this problem before.....

https://i.vgy.me/BDye3S.jpg

In regards to what I marked in red , notice that the mechanism frame work is precisely parallel w/ the back panel of the player. If your player is not like this, then that could explain all the issues w/ B side playback. I had this problem w/ my CLD-D704 and I fixed it by removing the back panel and then using my hands to gently bend the frame work back until it was perfect.

In regards to what I marked in yellow , these bolt down points can easily be bent especially when a player is shipped. Make sure all four corners are precisely straight and gently bend them back if they are not. Also, check the area where the clamper is screwed on to these two braces for the same thing. Lastly, check the bracing on the far right side as well since you don't want a bent frame forcing your circuit board to bend.

The bottom of the player could also be affected but not usually (especially if your Side A playback is fine). However, it doesn't hurt to give it a quick visual inspection.


I don't guarantee this is the 100% solution for you but it is something to really look @ first.

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Posted: 15 Jul 2022, 23:52 

Sometimes when a chassis is bent, I can't even tell with my eyes.

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Posted: 16 Jul 2022, 00:34 

I ran a quick experiment on the CLD-99S. I checked C5 (sort of arbitrarily chosen component early in secondary) which is an electrolytic capacitor rated for 10V. At 100V, it is just under 10V. At 120V, it is just over 12V, exceeding the voltage rating.

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 Post subject: [MDP-800] Repair
Posted: 07 Aug 2022, 03:50 

I bought a broken MDP-800 yesterday. The seller said there was no audio. I opened it up and was greeted with the following:
MDP-800_1.jpg
MDP-800_2.jpeg
MDP-800_3.jpeg
MDP-800_4.jpeg

The following caps were leaking:
Servo section: C299, C428, C430 47uF (I have seen these leak in a MDP-600 as well)
Audio section: C507 47uF
Power section: C707 100uF
Power supply: C31 C35 100uF

All of these capacitors were 35V.

After cleaning up all the leakage and replacing these, there was still no audio. +8VDC to audio section was somewhere around +2VDC. I replaced the +8V regulator in the power supply and was relieved to hear audio.

On to the adjustments now (once I find wherever my MDP adjustment cable is hiding). Unless the mechanical adjustments have drifted, it shouldn't take long since the only servo adjustments available are tilt balance for A and B.

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 Post subject: FYI: LaserParts.net
Posted: 21 Oct 2022, 13:53 

Hi all, I've been slowly expanding my catalog of laserdisc player reproduction parts. I've created a website to house my eBay links. I've chimed in on various threads where pertinent, but figured it would be worth making a separate thread in case anyone was curious about replacement parts in general. 2 main highlights are replacement m-holders and grip rings of my own design and manufacture. I've also recreated a number of gears and odds and ends that are common breakage points in Pioneer players. Feel free to reach out to me here on the forums or contact me via the email listed on the site:

http://www.laserparts.net

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/5iOMIDe4IHNCrWHN47q9YojjjaML_5OXwAD0rTDt4L1G-ym50rTj6-x652tYAPJhvYgiFBJ3z8N15PvEKbYCvaQZz2OqKi1q4nJlyrQMtRKjSTKaSAto5M-LWlnSqZ0zdA=w1280

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Posted: 31 Oct 2022, 02:49 

Just an update: my CLD-919 is working! It just needed a good cleaning.

It looks fantastic. A definite upgrade over the V8.

I'm watching through my DS9 discs now, it's better than the DVDs. In the market for the Japan-only episodes. :D

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 Post subject: Re: What is CX?
Posted: 03 Nov 2022, 19:40 



Great info, thanks buddy :thumbup:

When I play discs which can shift between CX settings I should always keep it in CX-STEREO mode for best audio quality?


In most cases, you don't have to do anything.

CX in a high percentage of discs already have a flag in place to turn it on and prevent the user from overriding it (as crashoveride already stated). Thus, you simply let the player do its thing. On Digital Sound discs, it doesn't even matter at all since the digital tracks do not utilize CX so it's irrelevant.

On the rare analog audio only audio discs where there is no flag and thus you can choose to keep CX on or off, you should probably look to the jacket or the disc itself for the CX mark as that would mean the disc is encoded but you have to manually turn it on. If there is no CX logo anywhere, best to keep it off.

Also, as signofzeta mentioned, don't get hung up on this "CX-Stereo" indicator. They are two separate things. The reason you see it is because you must have one of the newer players where Pioneer combined all the Digital, Analog, and CX functions into one button on the remote (e.g.: "D/A CX"). On older players, we have two buttons labeled something like "Auto Digital Analog" and "CX".

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 Post subject: Re: [DVL-909] Side A issues
Posted: 05 Nov 2022, 05:42 

Not a belt issue. Could be side A centering or the tangential angle adjustment. I would try cleaning the lens first. If it still doesn’t play side A put in a CD and if it doesn’t play see if the spindle motor centering needs adjustment. If you have to adjust side A then you need to readjust side B. Tangential angle would be my last item to look at.

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 Post subject: Re: CS-450 Genlock question
Posted: 10 Nov 2022, 10:43 

Just change the shadow color of the font from black to example white or anything you like, then the visibility will be as good as before.
You can also increase the font size if you feel the subtitles are hard to read.

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 Post subject: Re: What is CX?
Posted: 14 Nov 2022, 15:41 

BTW, LD digital audio is *literally* CD audio at the encoding level. Aside from LD-G that's a distinction without a difference really.

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Posted: 22 Nov 2022, 03:53 

I think I've got a potential NTSC/CLV winner... 62:54!

edit: Now up at https://archive.org/details/TopHitsEnglishSongs24LD

I searched on this to see if it was covered in Oddity Archive yet (the B side has Never Gonna Give You Up) and I found this Top Hits English Songs 24 (1991) [JLD-126] from laserking:


Upon acquiring this disc, I was certain that the jacket wrongly listed the running time as 123 minutes. I thought this length would be impossible on a single CLV disc. However, when I checked the running time, I found it to be correct. Side one pushes the limit, clocking in at nearly 63 minutes! This is the longest running time I have ever seen on a single side.

I've confirmed this with an ld-decode capture - there are 133112 frames, and here's the last one in ld-analyse. It's pressed by mitsubishi and from the SNR is likely true-CLV.

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 Post subject: Re: CLD-PC10
Posted: 22 Nov 2022, 10:19 

I have found one, and it works with my Pioneer Mac (and many other Mac) : https://www.journaldulapin.com/2022/11/ ... -cld-pc10/

Pioneer offer the sftware on his website (yes, 25 years later) and it's a virtual remote.

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Posted: 03 Dec 2022, 16:57 

I have a Japanese DVL-919, but it's one of the aforementioned models where the internal PSU is marked as 125V.
You might have looked at the fuse rating. The JP models I've looked into use 125V rated glass fuses, including the HLD-X9.

The true indicator for the North American DVL-919 VWR1286-A is in the top right of the below photo: VWR1286-A.jpg


Late reply but my Japanese 919 does indeed have a 120VAC 50/60hz PSU:
DSC04532.jpg
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