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Posted: 08 Mar 2018, 16:52 

It's funny van-dammage created this thread asking if people were mentally ill. I do not understand why van-dammage would change alias all the time, the way the posts were written you could easily know that it was him/her. That user was like a running fugitive.
Is there any restrictions on how many times within a year you can change alias? - I mean, we have all become a family here, so to say. We don't have to "hide" from each other.

Being here for four years and asking the same questions over and over and requesting confirmity of uncut vs. cut editions, must be pretty lame. Seems like van-dammage only cared about making posts to achive higher ranking and in my opinion some of the posts were written in an offending way with a lack of respect.

As for Laserbite and his health, I do believe that side effects of medication can alter the personality in a negative way over time, and being self observant about it might not be easy. I hope for him that he eventually comes back, as he earlier had a good sense of humour to offer.

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Posted: 10 Jun 2018, 19:48 

Just wanted to alert the community of an unethical member on eBay. Username: rekishi207

https://www.ebay.com/itm/-/113043786571?nordt=true&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l10137
https://www.rinkya.com/en/auction-m257586732?dollar=part

Found an eBay-listing with a HLD-X9 advertised as "junk". It was sold as "junk" due to being untested and some minor cosmetical defects. Thought I found a scoop and decided to buy it, just for the sake of it and maybe the "junk" was indeed a treasure.
I paid for it and sent the seller a message to take precautions and double box the player, etc. The seller responded and gave the impression that the player was in his hands and would be packaged according to my message. He had done so in the past with previous orders and got positive feedback.
After the purchase I found a similar player over at Rinkya/Buyee with the same cosmetical defects, advertised as "junk". I now got suspicious since this was an active auction ongoing with lots of bidders. I thought, WTF, I have already bought this? So I re-checked the pictures in both of the listings and found that the serial number at the back was indeed the same. But in the eBay listing the serial number was removed, probably to "hide" the obvious scam.
Today I received a message that the seller was sorry for not having this item in stock anymore and it occured due to his inventory mismanagement. Shortly after, I got a complete refund and in the cancellation he mention and claims that the "Buyer asked to cancel the order". Hell no, I didn't asked for a cancellation but he did it to save his own skin. :evil:

I was all the time backed by the eBay money back guarantee, so I had no worries.

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Posted: 13 Nov 2018, 21:08 

I do believe I can help you. I have the service manual for the CLD-97/CLD-98. I'll send it to the admin so he can upload it to the database.
I'm sure there are others that can have use for it too. :)

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Posted: 18 Mar 2019, 09:24 

You might check this out. Diagnostic trouble codes to check for.
I think you should dissassemble it and check if the optical pickup is jammed and not able to move freely or not properly seated.
This video might give you some more insight. Good luck! :)

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Posted: 30 Jan 2020, 00:03 

I would open the top cover and watch the movements when playing the laserdisc to the end of side A.
A video might be of help to diagnose the problem.
It can be something gummed up preventing it from doing a flip, loose or missing parts, and also the loading/motor belt might not have enough tension to help make the turn. A belt with less tension might be working erratically and giving you problems when trying to flip the disc.
Since no action is happening when you press the side B button, it can also relate to an electrical fault somewhere.

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 Post subject: Re: Belt for CLD-R7G
Posted: 14 Nov 2020, 11:43 

I have taken apart my DVL-909 and I'm by no means a skilled electronics repairman, just an amateur that have progressed over the years by dissasembling multiple players to get to several parts. If you take your time you will get to the belt without too much of a problem. The CLD-R7G ain't that complex, like many older players are. I believe I have read the CLD-R7G has an Epsilon turn mechanism. Briefly browsing some service manuals for other players with an epsilon turn mechanism, I cannot find a belt part number. It may not have a belt for the turn mechanism at all.
Remember, the DVL-909/919 have two separate optical laser mechanisms that flips around in addition to changing sides and The CLD-R7G has only one optical laser mechanism.

The part number for the turn mechanism here is VEB1184, the same as the loading belt part number.

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Posted: 30 Nov 2020, 13:36 

There's a guy on YouTube that has partially recapped this model and fixed the on and off power problem. Seems like the problem can be bad capacitors on the larger circuit board and maybe on the power supply board. Is there a possibility that many Sony laserdisc players were tossed because of bad capacitors that could have been fixed?
I know that the MDP-600 and MDP-800/850 can develop a darker image over time, maybe this also can be related to bad capacitors. The capacitor plague during the last decades of the 20th century comes to my mind, so this is just my thoughts..

Link for the video

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Posted: 10 Dec 2020, 23:03 

From what I have read and in my opinion:

Technically, the LX-900 is the superior of them all and considered the best Panasonic laserdisc player.
The LX-600 is built like the LX-900, but a subpar model and it is missing some of the hardware of the desirable LX-900.
The LX-H680 has AC3-RF output, which I believe is the only Panasonic model to have it from the factory, if not a handful of others?
The LX-H670 does not have AC3-RF output and is very likely to be similar to the LX-H680.
The LX-1000 has flaws with tracking discs and video noise making the picture look very poorly. There is a service bulletin for fixing the crosstalk issue regarding this model.

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Posted: 11 Dec 2020, 15:07 

I think the black piece should be attached to the metal rod behind the optical unit, to the right side as we see it in the picture. It is probably meant to block the optical unit from travelling too far back and it helps support the metal rod from not moving. I guess that the copper colored screw is there to block the metal rod from lifting itself out. Check the black piece and look for a rectangular hole in the plastic where the screw sits. It may be this part and I think it will be replaceable if you get the part number.

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Posted: 11 Dec 2020, 15:19 

I think the black piece should be attached to the metal rod behind the optical unit, to the right side as we see it in the picture. It is probably meant to block the optical unit from travelling too far back and it helps support the metal rod from not moving. I guess that the copper colored screw is there to block the metal rod from lifting itself out. Check the black piece and look for a rectangular hole in the plastic where the screw sits. It may be this part and I think it will be replaceable if you get the part number.

I guess I already see a broken connection in the ribbon cable for the optical unit. Far left on the angled ribbon cable you can see a cut-out, probably caused by the black piece floating around in there and scraping everything it touches. These ribbon cables are fragile and easily damaged. This may cause trouble for the laser optical unit and also explain why it won't work. :thumbdown:

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Posted: 11 Dec 2020, 21:30 

Apart from collecting music and television/movies on several formats, I'm into vintage computing like the 486 era and I like to tinker with things at home in order to keep them running as they should, like chainsaws, lawnmovers, etc. Not always I succeed at the first attempt, but I won't succeed if I don't try.
It's important to keep the head busy and try to learn new things all the time, probably a great way to reduce the risk of slowly getting dementia in the future.

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Posted: 13 Dec 2020, 11:10 

I assume the screenshots to the right are of the LX-900?
I think you are too concerned about your players. The only screenshot that bothers me is the left one at the bottom. It is more noisier than the others, but nothing problematic unless the disc breaks up during play and makes it unwatchable. Seems like the brightness in the picture is causing the lines to appear more visually, so maybe the LX-H670 is more soft and bright in terms of picture color? How about adjusting your set according to this player and see if that makes a difference?
Laserdisc is an analog format and no disc is perfect, some players are doing a better job "hiding" what you would consider a blemish or fault.

I think you can relax and keep recording laserdiscs off of the LX-900 for personal use, you don't want to crap out on quality and go for a player with lower standards than the best Panasonic player out there?

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 Post subject: Re: Babylon 5 1080p
Posted: 03 Feb 2021, 22:01 

I'll have to wait until a norwegian or nordic streaming service schedules the show, but the color grading seems ok for the most part from what I have seen on youtube.
X-files did not get the fonts ported over to the remastered version. I believe the same people behind the remastering of TNG season 2 did the remastering of X-files. There was talk about the fonts were available, but they didn't care to use the correct font. Also MacGyvers iconic explosion logo font in the intro theme didn't get ported over to the season 1 of the original MacGyver, in this case there was probably a valid reason because this particular scene had a low resolution and the graphical logo didn't have a source, so they had to recreate it for the remaster and used the logo that follows the dvd cases. In my opinion the fonts are part of the shows integrity, but this isn't cultural history or something of importance, so yeah.....

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Posted: 12 Jul 2021, 20:43 

The loading belt should be at the right side of the tray. For your piece of mind you might unscrew and lift the PCB for the audio/video circuitry to gain wider access to the belt and then you would turn this belt until the tray lifts up and eventually pulls back against you. Now you should have complete access to the power supply.
You might also look at the search bar to the upper right and type in what you are looking for, it will save you some time getting an answer. :thumbup:
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