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Posted: 08 Jan 2020, 02:11 

As I mentioned initially, have the mechanism in the up/play position and then apply pressure as you lower the mechanism by turning the pulley. You will feel it move in as you are turning the pulley.

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Posted: 12 Jan 2020, 02:21 

While the laser assembly was coming up did you try taking your other hand and lifting up on the laser assembly so that turning the pulley would be easier?

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Posted: 30 Jan 2020, 23:52 

If you pressed B with the tray open and it still doesn’t go to side B and play it is not a slipping grip ring as the laser after detecting a disc is present should flip directly to side B and try to read the TOC there. So a video of the laser movement when pressing side B to close the tray would be helpful. Need to see if the laser goes back into the turn mechanism and if the turn completes.

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Posted: 03 Feb 2020, 05:48 

If you have a clean picture on side A with no crosstalk playing a CLV recorded LD then the tilt should be OK, but the tangential adjustment is separate for side B. It would have to be that or the pickup. You probably would have to go into test mode and then turn the servo's on to see if you can adjust the tangential alignment.

The other issue could be the ribbon cable from the turn mechanism to the main board. Could be worth a chance to test.

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Posted: 13 Feb 2020, 03:39 

Save yourself some trouble and leave the front on the unit, just remove the tray by moving the tabs as they show and pulling the tray out. You can easily get to the belt from the top.

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Posted: 28 Feb 2020, 23:44 

Pioneer changed how the track is mounted for the DVL players for side B. What is happening is that the pickup gear is not properly engaging the track for the inner tracks. What some people are doing is changing the centering which also changes the angle and depth the laser gear engages with the track and this can help. The real issue is the mounting of the track and the track itself. I have seen perfectly straight tracks from front to back and the last one I had to fix actually curved up at the spindle motor end. I normally add a slight spring force to push down and the problem is fixed but the placement of the force is not always the same. Once this is done the unit works throughout the centering range. Back when Duncan was around I had a conversation with him and he believe Pioneer had some bad rails and they just needed to be replaced. I have cleaned and re-greased the same rail and it does not help. Remember the laser sits at one point and the electronics has a range where is moves the laser front to back then the movement motor pulse for a slight movement and at the same time the electronics moves the laser to the front to begin the same cycle again while properly tacking the disc. What is happening is the pickup is not moving as the front to back electronic movement is made with the laser and the laser starts jumping the track it is focused on back. If you have the top off you can actually take something small, I use a dental pick, and press up or down on the track near the pickup when it is in the jumping loop and you’ll see it move to the place it should be at.

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Posted: 05 Mar 2020, 04:25 

If not packed properly and the unit experiences a hard vertical jolt the mounting tabs for the loading mechanism can break and it drops and this can happen. This is also a possibility.

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Posted: 10 Mar 2020, 02:23 

The laser has to move into the rest position before anything can be operated with the player. The noise sounds like the electronics trying to get the laser to the proper position and the MHolder is bad. That would explain the laser sliding to the back during shipment and sticking in that position, common place to find it with a bad MHolder.

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Posted: 13 Mar 2020, 00:50 

Just go with what you like. When I had a X9 I had the C-NR half way and Y-NR minimum. The 97 defaults on "ON" each time you insert a disc so I modified the unit to default to "OFF". I just prefer the look of the 97. I know plenty that prefer the X9. Then there is the X0 which is the best or the LD-S2 that does not have the DNR filtering circuitry as in the X0.

There is no correct answer, find what makes you the happiest and enjoy.

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Posted: 14 Mar 2020, 03:35 

A properly adjusted 95 will look like a properly adjusted 97. The 95 was just replaced quickliy is the S-Video outputs were not properly sync'd and a high end video magazine at that time "A Video Standard" I think was the name published the issue. Yes, your 95 needs adjustment to correct crosstalk.

X9; find the setting you like and watch is correct.

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 Post subject: Re: Pioneer DVL-700 player
Posted: 30 Mar 2020, 22:28 

The DVL-700 has the same grip ring issue the CLD-D704, 79, and 99 have. You need to clean the grip ring and add Plasti-Dip. Pioneer fixed this on the DVL-909, 919, and 91.

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Posted: 10 Apr 2020, 23:34 

The first thing to try is toggling the switch for the pickup that is in the top position of the turn mechanism that tells the electronics it is inserted fully into the mechanism. You may have to feel and find the worm wheel on the laser movement motor and turn it to have the pickup come out and turn the other way to have it go back in. Effectively toggling the switch. Then try it again.

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Posted: 20 Apr 2020, 01:04 

With the unit unplugged, remove the top and look at the lower pickup to see the worm wheel location that moves the laser assembly. Now you need to put your hand on the upper laser assembly in the turn mechanism, turn the worm wheel to move it out and then turn it to move it back in. Then toggle the two on the base of the mechanical assembly toward the spindle motor (they move sideways) and then try again. Just checking to see if the switches have lost contact.

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 Post subject: Re: [CLD-D925] E0 Error
Posted: 23 Apr 2020, 23:54 

Since the laser is in the back you should be able to unplug the unit, take the cover off, and then turn the load gear to drop the laser assembly and have the tray come out. Then you would need to reach in and manually turn the worm wheel on the laser movement motor and assist it in turning out on the bottom. Could not tell if you have the gray or black MHolder but it you have the gray one the mounting pins could be broke and the gears are jamming. Hard to tell what the issue is until you get the tray out so you can really inspect the unit.

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Posted: 24 Apr 2020, 00:08 

You should never have to add anything, you are adding a bandage to the real issue. With these players the spindle motor lower clamp has set screws to hold it in place. It is possible the height of the clamp on the motor shaft is out of spec. The spindle shaft should be just barely above the top of the CD centering part of the lower clamp when there is nothing pressed down on it. Then verify the rails/bars that hold the upper clamp are at proper height with the top line of the frame. I'd say you are getting rings on the discs as the space you've created does not provide the proper grip on the disc. As others have said the grip ring would not be an issue with the model. If you are hearing a grinding sound I would guess the RPM tabs on the lower part of the lower clamp on the spindle motor is rubbing against the RPM sensor plastic case (most likely the top) which again means the lower clamp is not proper placed on the spindle motor.

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Posted: 27 Apr 2020, 17:26 

I'd load a CD into both machines (I'd do it with the tray out) and once in the clamp try turning the CD to see if the resistance to turning is the same. You may have a motor bearing issue with the unit that won't play.

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 Post subject: Re: CLD-91 Elite
Posted: 03 May 2020, 20:10 

Agreed, you have to disassemble the loading gear section, clean off the old grease and apply something like the white lithium grease. This is a pretty big job as with players this old you have to put the gears back in the correct timing.

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 Post subject: Re: CLD-3080 vs LX-900u
Posted: 03 May 2020, 20:26 

You are also comparing an older Pioneer 3080 which uses a design used for low noise thru PCB layouts and parts used with no Digital Noise Reduction, DNR, verses a Panasonic LX-900U which was also a very nice player but like all of the newer players used good layouts but not as critical as the 3080 with switching power supplies which can add noise and then use DNR to improve the picture. Pioneer, Panasonic, and all other companies that used these base machines both did this. The high end companies used Runco, Theta, etc. improved the Audio but kept the video the same except that Runco and MSB correct the LX-900U video AGC issues with dark scenes.

The 900 is a very player, the 3080 is a very good player but these are completely different animals. Every unit to every display can look different. Play them on an older analog TV and then on a new flatscreen and the preferred player could get reversed.

This is why I always say find what you prefer and enjoy, there are a lot of good players and the LD-S2 or HLD-X0 are the closest to perfect as the machine can get.

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 Post subject: Re: LD-S2 NR on BNC
Posted: 08 May 2020, 01:59 

Yes, all outputs go through the NR circuit and the default is VideoNR OFF and ChromaNR ON.

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 Post subject: Re: LD-S2 NR on BNC
Posted: 09 May 2020, 04:48 

For an older analog TV the BNC does look a little better, going to a digital TV or Computer the digitizing will probably cancel out the BNC advantage.

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Posted: 14 May 2020, 02:43 

There are two position switches on the bottom plate to signal the processor when the laser is at LD and CD position, they could be intermittent and need to be replaced

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Posted: 14 May 2020, 02:48 

I have taken a blade to scratch the top surface of the ribbon away to expose the copper trace on the piece still on the motor and the part still on the laser. Then I would take a small piece of wire and solder it across bridging the gap. I've done this successfully about 90% of the time as sometime the ribbon breaks worse and it cannot be saved.

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Posted: 18 May 2020, 02:02 

Yes, the 503 will work, just won't have the Elite coating on the tray

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Posted: 21 May 2020, 23:47 

As others stated D105 shorts and blows the fuse if an arc occurs, the problem is Pioneer chose a ARC suppressor with too low of an rating and it can blow by just plugging the unit into an outlet. So you can just cut one of the leads so it does not make contact or cut both leads and remove it. The replace the fuse with another with the same ratings, they should on printed on the board by the fuse.

There is nothing special about this type of ARC suppression, that is why you can just buy a arc suppression outlet adapter or power strip to get the arc suppression.


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Posted: 23 May 2020, 04:24 

So you can just cut one of the leads so it does not make contact or cut both leads and remove it.

So Kurtis, there is no need to bridge the connection if one removes the arc suppressor all together?

The arc suppressor is normally an open circuit, an arc creates a short and shorts the power to ground blowing the fuse to protect the remainder of the unit. A bridge would create a short from power to ground.
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