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| krbahr |
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Posted: 26 Sep 2023, 23:09
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| It will work, Pioneer played around around with the Power,Stop,Open/Close buttons over the years but the others will operate it just fine. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 06 Oct 2023, 23:31
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| The X1 does not output raw video, all outputs are digitized for time base correction, digital noise reduction, and this actually improves edge enhancement to give a sharper looking picture. As you stated the BNC video2 and s-video2 both bypass the character generator and this does help as in the X1 and U.S. LD-S2 the character generation is performed after the digital signal is recombined. So raw from the disc to digital to analog to character generator or bypass character generator. Newer players do the character generation while the signal is digital. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 13 Oct 2023, 22:48
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Yes, I have seen this once before. If you can find the piece in the player take a soldering iron or other hot iron, place the piece in position and on the back side smear across the crack melting the plastic but the inside or front side needs to stay smooth. I've had this work
Otherwise the US Models CLD-D503/703/704/79/99 trays will work but they are black in color. I have extra's I could sell you but the shipping may be too expensive. Otherwise the Japanese S9 and I believe the CLD-D99 have the same color tray as yours. You have to swap the front of your tray onto the replacement. Even the Pioneer $80 new tray does not come with the front face.
The X9 tray is Pioneer part number VXA2311
At least the one from the CLD-D704 will NOT work as the insert for the CDs will block the disc holder from moving up. And you can't remove the insert as some of the gear tooth are on there.
The 704 tray does work. I just take pliers and break out the 3 inch disc ring and then it works fine. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 24 Oct 2023, 23:33
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| There are two white plastic plates on the sides of the disc loader, you have to remove the top boards for better access. You have to press one side forward and the other backward at the same time to rise up the clamping mechanism and press them the other way to lower it. Since the grease is stiff this can be very hard to move. Once the mechanism is up you can push out the tray. Once the unit is cleaned removing the original grease and white silicon grease is applied the unit will work fine but as others have said this is one of the hardest players to clean and re-grease. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 12 Nov 2023, 02:55
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| These older models rarely have grip ring issues, this sounds like a motor bearing. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 20 Nov 2023, 05:38
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I’ve also found in most cases the better picture is using the composite output, especially with CRT’s.
The Pioneer CLD-D703 or Pioneer CLD-D704 will give you a little sharper picture but the picture will look a little more digital and not as smooth as the 701. It’s really your preference of picture which makes one better than the other. With the 703/704 you will have to replace the grip ring and load belt every 10 years or so. The 701 does not normally require this.
If you don’t need AC-3 then save money and get a 703, it is a good unit. You can decide which you prefer, both are good units. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 22 Nov 2023, 02:08
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Looks like minor differences on the primary side only, most likely due to the safety grounding requirements in the US market.
I agree the majority of the Pioneer electronics use a common design for the Japanese and US market. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 25 Nov 2023, 05:05
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My point is that it is easier to design a power supply to work at 120VAC and it will also work at 100VAC. Pioneer did this with some designs. The Japanese units are labeled 100VAC as that is their standard. Now I did see some differences in parts missing in the Japanese supply and my comment was that Japanese unit grounding for the primary side of the supply is different than US standards. If you look at the capacitors and their voltage ratings are the same then it will work but it just doesn’t meet US standards. No one can answer your question completely until you give us the comparisons of the capacitors voltage and values.
It is also true that the higher the voltage the shorter the life so what is designed for the US market is a little over designed for the Japanese market.
There are electronics specifically made for 100VAC and those do need a step down transformer. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 19 Dec 2023, 02:29
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You did not turn up the strength of the laser, you turned up the return RF signal level the electronics use to process the signal. The level returned from the disc depends and the reflective quality at that point on the disc and the focus of the laser. The only think that could happen is the signal being processed is amplified too much causing errors.
So either the RF was not properly adjusted or your laser is aging.
Just use it and enjoy. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 22 Dec 2023, 03:47
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| CD’s use the same laser as laserdisc, DVD’s use the other laser. Most likely spindle centering which effects both lasers. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 23 Dec 2023, 03:46
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| There is nothing to loosen. You just have to break it free. You can get it close without an oscilloscope. Don’t turn past the marks. Remember where you started in case this is not the issue. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 05 Jan 2024, 23:55
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| The audio buttons are different depending on the model, some units require a remote with one button to switch between analog and digital sound and another to switch between right/left/stereo and other models use one button and rotating thru all the functions. So your laserdisc player model number is important with talking audio switching. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 04 Feb 2024, 03:58
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If the two fuses were blown that means something after the fuses is pulling too much current. As for D105 that is not a diode, it is an arc suppressor, it should measure open. If it was bad your primary side input fuse would blow.
First power on the board isolated from the player. You should read +5volts on the EV+5V signal. Then short that to the power on pin and if the supply comes up with all voltages then the supply is good. If good then you need to focus on the other boards in the unit and measure for voltage line shorts. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 09 Feb 2024, 23:46
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| The CLD-95 is really nice but use the composite output, the S-Video output had a pixel shift between the chroma and luminance as written up in " A Prefect Vision" and has a Multi-bit DAC. They replaced it with the CLD-97 to correct the S-Video but switched to a bitstream DAC. There are many more 97's out there but both are very good units. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 10 Feb 2024, 23:35
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| I've seen bad lasers cause this, intermittent position sensor switches, and power issues. You need to open it up and see where the laser pickups are located and watch if they move when you power on the unit for a start. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 14 Feb 2024, 23:21
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| Glad you got it going again |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 26 Feb 2024, 00:01
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The CLD-D503 does not have a Mholder. the 503 is the same laser design as the 703/704/79/99/S9/X9 etc. sometimes the gear that extends out the side of the laser assembly to move along the track breaks off. The fix is to replace the motor movement mechanism on the back of the laser assembly with a good one.
Only way to get these is from non-functioning lasers that you remove the motor mechanism. I have a few.
Pictures of exactly what failed would be great. |
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Thanks list