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Posted: 26 Oct 2021, 22:25 

Good to see my memory hasn't totally failed. Three more years to retirement and then the time to really spend on player repair. Hopefully I'll make it.

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Posted: 25 Nov 2021, 04:08 

+5EV which is +5V is not switched and always on or "Ever" on. That goes to the front panel. When you press the power button on the front or ON on the remote the front panel sends the ON/OFF control signal back to the power supply to turn on the remaining power outputs to power the player. You need a schematic and a meter to see if the ON/OFF control signal is being sent from the front panel back to the power supply. If not being sent the problem is on the front panel board, if the signal is there then the issue would be in the power supply. Verify there is nothing in the remote control plug in the back and that can also prevent operation.

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Posted: 01 Dec 2021, 23:34 

do these players like LD players, VCR and modern BD players and the list could go on. Do they output a pure signal which is why sometimes you can use the Television to change the aspect ratio in order to make something that was 4x3 back to 4x3. Or is the signal from the players compromised in a way that we're not fully getting the picture even if we do aspect ratio on the TV

LD and VCR put out a picture that 4X3, so you have to tell you TV how to display that in an area meant for 16X9, Stretch, Zoom, side bars, etc. which are all processing steps inside the TV. Blu-Ray players output 16X9 so it fills the screen. So the answer is the playing unit is specified to output the aspect ratio for the standard size of TV for that country at the time the specification for the format LD/VCR was finalized. LD/VCR has the flyback built into the signal to provide the electronic beam to be returned to the left side to start the next trace across the screen. The NTSC TV's would just sync to the control pulses set out by the players and display the line trace as provided. ALL analog inputs signal worked on this principle.

Digital is a totally different animal and you cannot compare them, it's more of a digital memory where you load a location/position with the desired display output. Digital TV's have to take the analog NTSC and process it to determine what data to send to the memory positions for the display. That is why you find different qualities in how a TV will display NTSC. Cheaper ones just don't invest their money into supporting an old format.

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Posted: 17 Dec 2021, 01:26 

You have to remove the top video board on the left and fell underneath it toward the front to find the gear to turn to lower the tray and open the tray. To get the LD tray to open you need to move the laser toward the back just before the arm that comes up thru the mechanical assembly. If the CD tray only opens you have to turn the wheel to get the assembly fully up in play position and then move the laser a little further back and try to lower and open the tray again.

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Posted: 18 Dec 2021, 05:02 

You need to move the laser further toward the back and then turn the wheel to completely raise the back up in playing position and then turn back the other way to drop the mechanism and open the LD tray.

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Posted: 05 Jan 2022, 01:02 

Sometimes with poor handling the motor actually rips the ribbon cable in two and the motor is separated. If the repair person has soldering skills you can just get the motor holder mentioned above and then the repairman will have to scratch away the insulating cover on the ribbon cable and softwire to the motor connections. The important part is getting an updated motor holder during your repair. If he cannot find the loose gears he needs to shake the player in more angles to free the gears for re-use.

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Posted: 07 Jan 2022, 00:08 

The CLD-97 and CLD-98 use the same service manual and adjustment steps. The 98 is just a non-North American version with the silver color on the outside and board differences to accommodate the other countries it was designed for. Just like the LD-X1 does not have Elite on it but the North America version LD-S2 does have Elite on it. I've only seen "Elite" stamped on North American high end units.

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Posted: 12 Jan 2022, 03:09 

My opinion is that the CLD-97 was the last real Elite design for the US market, meaning; the CLD-59 is a CLD-D604 that added a soft/normal/sharp picture selection; The CLD-79 has the same picture quality as the CLD-D704 but has the cheaper audio section found in the CLD-D604; The CLD-99 has the same picture quality as the CLD-D704 and the same audio circuit found in the 704, the 99 does have the 3D Adaptive filter but it is an old first generation and most TV's do a better job if you get a decent TV. The DVL-90 is a DVL-700 and the DVL-91 is a DVL-919 with option differences though the 91 did seem to re-equalize the S-Video output to make it sharper.

The LD-S1, LD-S2, CLD-95, CLD-97 all have unique power board layouts, unique video and audio board layouts, and the LD-S2 has shielding between all the boards. You cannot compare these Elite models to the non-Elite units made at the time. The McIntosh MLD-7020 changed the CLD-97 to a McIntosh case and front design and most had the precision laserdisc AC-3 RF board added for the AC-3 output, all the power, video, and audio boards are unmodified CLD-97 boards.

This is why I always suggest if you like the picture of the newer models just buy a CLD-D704, I think it is the best bang for the buck. If you prefer the smoother background and not quite as sharp then I prefer the S2 or 97, the 95 is a good choice if you use the composite signal output. The magazine "The Perfect Vision" did a test of high end players when the CLD-95 was current production and they found a chroma verses luminance timing issues and Pioneer quickly responded with the CLD-97 fixing that, but the 95 used a multibit DAC where the 97 moved to the Philips bitstream DAC but that is another discussion. The S1 is also a good unit.

Again, this is some history and preferences are just my opinion, others feel differently, get the unit you like and just enjoy it, there is no perfect player.

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Posted: 23 Jan 2022, 02:16 

Your Focus Servo is most likely out of adjustment, need to do an alignment for the player.

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Posted: 10 Feb 2022, 05:18 

The pin and spring mainly allows for cushioning the assembly so it does bang from the weight, it will work without the spring but the flip down drops hard. I have also had to work on one where the plastic hole cracked causing the pin to slip out. After I got the pin securely installed and spring reattached the unit worked fine.

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Posted: 16 Feb 2022, 04:41 

It also bothers me how people disregard the LD-S2. The design base is the same as the HLD-X0. If you take away the DNR and the 3D adaptive filter from the HLD-X0 you have a LD-S2. The X0 and S2 don't have the sharpest picture but the background is so smooth and not digitized like the other players. You can get a LD-S2 a lot cheaper than a X0. I've worked on both and have had them sitting side by side comparing them on my Pioneer Elite Plasma. But these are single sided players

I agree the CLD-97 is the lowest noise dual sided player but they are expensive if you find a good working one.

The CLD-D704 is what I consider the best bang for the buck Pioneer player if you want a sharper picture and don't mind a little of the digitized look in the background. The R7G is a good machine being a CLD-59, CLD-D605 based machine with a re-equalized output to make it sharper. The DVL-909 is based from the CLD-D604/CLD-59 for LD playback circuitry family. With the CLD-59 or CLD-605 you can select soft/normal/sharp picture so you can see that sharper picture but you will also see the amount of background digitizing look change with the sharpness. The 59/605/R7G all use the same power supply design and mechanical assembly with the R7G having the video section modified with the 3D adaptive filter and video equalization. I actually think the HLD-X9 is a better choice than the R7G

Just don't get caught up in the generation of the 3D adaptive filter as the best one was still designed back around year 2000 (in the R7G) and many advances have been made since then and if you use an up-converter you don't want to digitally process in two places as you get negative results, you would turn off the processing in the player and process in the up-converter.

If you are happy with what you have then just enjoy it. There is not an absolute answer here, some prefer the sharper picture which leans toward certain models and other prefer the smooth background without the digitized look. So you'll get lots of different answers. You need to decide the type of picture you prefer.

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Posted: 16 Feb 2022, 04:55 

Guess I should say upfront that my current player works good with no issues.

What I currently have is a Pioneer DVL-909 being feed (RCA jacks) into my Samsung DVD-VR375 DVD/VHS (HDMI out) and routed through my Denon AVR-X6500H and into my Sony VPL-VW285ES Projector. In conjunction with my DVL-909 is a Lexicon LDD-1 Demodulator.

If I was out and about dumpster diving the internet, what LD player would I be looking for that is a better fit (picture quality) for my HT?

While a Pioneer HLD-X0 (black) weighs in on my want list that is pretty spendy if you can even find one. Anyway, just thinking out loud today.

Dennis

If you are feeding the LD output to a DVD/VHS player to get the HDMI then to a Denon and then to your projector your video signal no matter what you use is limited to the processing in the Samsung DVD/VHS unit. No matter what you get you may not see that big of a difference as the up-converting unit quality and abilities may give that digitized look to a X0 or S2 defeating the purpose of using one. You would need to do some research on finding the really good up-converters like the higher end DVDO units and some others, find a used one since they are no longer being produced and try that first. I'd offer to sell you a refurbished 704 or 605 but I could not say it is worth it in your current setup.

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Posted: 04 Mar 2022, 05:28 

Your loading belt is working fine now. There is something in the gears of the DVD laser assembly, it should be moving smoothly like the LD laser assembly, the DVD laser is making click sounds like there is something in the gears. Since the display has DVD or LD the laser s are able to detect that a disc is installed but that does not mean it could read them once installed.

Best thing is to put the player in test mode and then hit the play button a couple times to see if the disc will spin. As long as a disc is detected the spindle motor will be forced to turn. If it does not turn then maybe you still have power supply issues in the spindle motor drive section. The spindle drive control pulses are generated on the main board and then sent to the power supply to supply the current to drive the motor with pulses. These are stepper motors. DRV A and DRV B are the main board signals generated for the spindle motor and then the power supply outputs SPDL M+ and SPDL M- to the spindle motor connector.

I have seen a bad DVD laser cause this also but I would focus on verifying signals to drive the spindle motor.

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Posted: 10 Apr 2022, 03:46 

The LX-900U working properly runs head to head with the Pioneer CLD-D704 and CLD-99. Some prefer the Panasonic and others the Pioneer. Just use the Panasonic and enjoy it.

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Posted: 03 May 2022, 01:29 

When it taps the disc that hard you got problems, you're going to have to be able to use an oscilloscope and trace signals if you cannot find a power supply issues.

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Posted: 16 Jun 2022, 22:40 

Yes, replace the startup capacitor first to see if the supply will then turn on the standby light each time it is plugged in.

As for the tray opening. If the laser is too close the the spindle motor it can hit the underneath of the motor or the CD/LD selection arm and cause issues. Also the unit can be out of sync with the mechanism timing. I've seen this happen during shipping.

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Posted: 28 Jun 2022, 04:19 

If the grip ring is slipping very bad then the TOC will not be read correctly on a LD and it will default to single sided play and side B play is disabled. You definitely need a grip ring and I would also replace the load belt while the top is off.

Grip ring substitute is available on eBay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174686647125?hash=item28ac22b355:g:YhAAAOSwN0hcvRcB

For the load belt buy a SCQ3.6 or SCQ3.8

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Posted: 02 Jul 2022, 06:25 

Curious about this comment "So I guess it's either rot or something up with my player? But why the heck would it play Jurassic Park with no issue? My 7020 is my only player with AC3 so I have no way of testing the DTS discs in another player. "

The DTS is in place of the digital audio track and has nothing to do with AC-3. Any player with a coax or optical digital output can give you the DTS output.

Have you ever had the normal digital stereo out of the optical or coax digital outputs also breakup? If the Strength of the RF output from the laser is starting to weaken the first thing you start to loose is the digital sound tracks were the DTS is also stored. Also depending on the quality of the pressing the strength of the RF output from the laser can vary from disc to disc, so when it is starting to go it does not happen the same on all discs.

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Posted: 03 Jul 2022, 01:31 

As I mentioned above, if you take an oscilloscope and watch the RF coming from the laser you will see it returns various strengths off the disc. If the signal is just a little weak the digital decoding for the sound (this is where the DTS is also placed) will start to have dropouts way before you see any dropouts in the video. You can completely loose the digital tracks and the video still looks fine. You can open the player, adjust the RF level and experience this on any player.

With LD all discs are NOT pressed equally, normally a calibrated player is adjusted properly and these variations in RF signal will not cause dropouts but if the RF signal from the laser is weakening in the laser or electronics then the variations in the signal can cause dropouts, and YES some discs can play fine and others have dropouts.

The 7020 is a repackaged Pioneer CLD-97 (no McIntosh improvements, just many have an AC-3 board added and in a McIntosh package) and many of these have a problem with age where the signal in the unit signal degrades with time and they eventually totally stop playing. This is not the actual laser failing but somewhere in the electronics there is a failure, I have not had the time to trace the issue but I'm afraid it's going to be one of the IC's as I've done full cap replacement on the mainboard with no help.

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 Post subject: Re: CLD-59 shows NO DISC
Posted: 06 Jul 2022, 02:21 

With laserdisc players as stated above it needs to determine what type of disc in inserted, CD or LD. Once it received an reflection back in the CD or LD position then the IC turns on the spindle motor. It you receive "NO DISC" on the display you did not get a reflection so the player just stops at that point.

You have to debug if you can see an RF pulse in the electronics when the laser is checking the CD or LD position. Just because you see the laser lite that does not mean the laser pickup is good. You have to connect an oscilloscope and trigger on receiving a pulse. Forget about what you have been thinking and just follow the RF signal to the IC and verify a pulse is present. Again, no pulse, no work!!

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 Post subject: Re: [CLD-D505] No power
Posted: 21 Jul 2022, 23:50 

If you replaced the 1uf capacitor with a new one then you have another part in the primary or the optical coupler between the primary and secondary side bad. After the startup pulse the secondary should produce +5VDC which is fed back to the primary thru the optical coupler and then the pulsing circuit decides how much primary pulse to pass to the secondary to keep the voltage at +5VDC. Sounds like this is what is failing. Remember this is a switching power supply and without this feedback pulsing controller working the supply will not produce any DC voltage.

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 Post subject: Re: [CLD-D505] No power
Posted: 22 Jul 2022, 22:32 

CLD-D605, CLD-D606, and CLD-D406 use similar supplies

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 Post subject: Re: [CLD-D505] No power
Posted: 24 Jul 2022, 05:49 

There is the optical isolator, resistors, transistors, etc used in the pulse control circuit on the primary side, it does not have to be a capacitor.

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 Post subject: Re: [CLD-D505] No power
Posted: 25 Jul 2022, 02:50 

Doing all this would be good if this was a linear power supply.

This is a switching power supply and you need an oscilloscope to see if the switching control issues any pulses to control the power supply primary sending voltage to the secondary. You need to read up on switching power supply theory or just swapping out parts until it starts working.

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Posted: 20 Oct 2022, 04:20 

Get a tray from a CLD-D503/D704/D704/53/79/99 and break-out the inner most ring and it will work fine, just put the S9/X9 front on it. These trays last longer than the brown colored S9/X9 trays.
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