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| krbahr |
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Posted: 04 Mar 2021, 20:03
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| Just be careful as there are multiple button configurations stored in the IC and the voltage levels on the pins load the desired configuration. So it will operate as a Pioneer unit but the functions labeled on the front may perform a different function, but the remote will work as it should. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 08 Mar 2021, 03:19
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| Normally the one toward the back adjusts the centering and the one toward the front locks in the adjustment. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 20 Mar 2021, 01:08
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| Do not use peanuts in the box containing the player as they crush down as the shippers throw around the box. Then pieces can get inside the player and the player can just jiggle around as the crushed peanuts no longer secure the player. Use bubble wrap around the players to make it secure in the box. Shipping companies may not cover claims unless bubble wrap is used. Peanuts between the inner and outer box is ok. Using only hard foam panels is not good as it does not do as good shock absorbing as bubble wrap. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 20 Mar 2021, 23:38
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| It doesn’t matter which laser you have, if the servos are not properly adjusted any unit will not play a disc. I have some discs I use to test players and every unit plays and stops playing the disc at varying degree, it’s the electronics around the laser along with the laser. I could take three of the same model, perform calibrations, and they will perform differently. When you have a good performing player just enjoy it. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 22 Mar 2021, 00:57
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| The picture of the laser. Is that the flash reflecting on the lens or does it need to be cleaned? |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 23 Mar 2021, 02:29
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| The lens still doesn't look correct on the inner side. It should be a clear focusing lens. Would you put that on a camera? |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 24 Mar 2021, 23:17
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I clamper shouldn’t need any lubrication from the perspective of when the disc begins spinning. Once the magnet locks down the disc, it is completely disengaged from the clamper housing to spin freely.
Like signofzeta and cplusplus said, the only lubrication would be the release mechanism not working properly like when a CD is stuck to it during eject.
Starting with the 503 and 703 Pioneer depends on the top brace to press down to secure the clamp of the disc. The older players have the strong magnet to clamp the disc. On the newer players There is actually a little button on the top brace that a ball bearing on the top of the upper clamp turns on. If the button has a bump wore in it it may need replacing.
BTW; you don’t see all the slipping on the older magnet design even though it used the same type of rubber mat as the newer players. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 29 Mar 2021, 02:38
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| I pretty much agree with Substance's ranking of players. What I can say about the V8000 is that it has more ringing or ghosting of an image than these players and once you see it you'll know what I'm talking about. The V8000 is a good picture but was designed for presentations and video games with an electromagnetic movement for the laser, it can jump the extremes of the disc in under 0.5 seconds and if it is a CAV disc will be also be playing in under 0.5 seconds. For home theater the X0 and S2 cannot be beat for picture quality for a single sided player, you have to see them to understand. Like substance says the 95/97 are the best low noise for a dual sided player. The V8000 is a good machine but I don't remember it beating any of the machines in substances list. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 29 Mar 2021, 07:06
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| Did you buy it this way or did it used to play fine and you now have issues? If you just bought it I'd return it. Someone would have to try to perform a complete alignment as either the laser is way out of alignment or the laser needs replacement. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 31 Mar 2021, 02:58
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You need to understand that you are asking a question that differs depending on a persons preferences. The 8000 was designed for presentations and games for computer control and syncing with other devices in the presentation where he CLD-95 was designed for home use.
Only you can say which looks best to you. I personally would use the CLD-95. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 31 Mar 2021, 03:05
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| The pictures are crosstalk issues, can be alignment or the laser going bad. You have to perform the alignment to see it the picture can be cleared. If the laser is going out you’ll never get a clean picture. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 31 Mar 2021, 03:45
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| VR607 adjusts the tilt for side A, VR608 adjusts the tilt for side B. The tilt adjusts the angle of the laser to the disc to be more forward or backward, 0 to 6 o’clock. The tangential adjusts the side to side angle of the laser to the disc, 3 to 9 o’clock. To get the minimal crosstalk you need to get both tilt and tangential correct. Get crosstalk as low as you can using the tilt and then see if you can get it lower adjusting the tangential. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 31 Mar 2021, 18:22
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| Those still digitize the signal for TBC, plus just digitizing actually performs edge enhancements to give a sharper look but also creates I digital look in the background. Best machine to see this was the Philips CDV-488 which has a button on the front to switch between pure analog or digital picture. Players like the S104 and S201 are pure analog, no digitizing in the machine. The S201 and S104 having no digital processing has a picture as clean as the power supply design and board layout allows. The picture would be softer being pure analog and the color will probably not be as stable being a low end player. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 01 Apr 2021, 22:23
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| The manuals section here has the service manual. You need to go there and look at the adjustment pages and see if you can do it. It does require test equipment. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 03 Apr 2021, 01:23
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| Go to MARVAC.com website and order a SCQ3.8 belt |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 05 Apr 2021, 07:15
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| The S2 has two different belts, one you get to from bottom which raises the tray up and down then the other you get to from the top that moves the tray in and out. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 03 May 2021, 22:31
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| This could also be a bad spot in the movement motor and it needs to be replaced, I have seen that in players. My first guess would have been the position microswitch. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 26 Jun 2021, 06:13
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| Might be able to re-grease the rail to get it to work. Also check to make sure the pin on the turn mechanism is lined up OK. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 28 Jun 2021, 09:27
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| That support is only for resting the assembly when in the down non playing or non clamping position when you turn off the player or open the tray. The re-greasing is more of what helped. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 20 Jul 2021, 02:19
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| It this is with digital sound only the RF signal level may be a little low. The digital bit stream needs a larger RF level to properly decode than the video and analog audio. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 28 Jul 2021, 07:03
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The primary side of the HLD-X0 or the LD-S2 which uses many of the same components does not connect the neutral wire of the power supply to unit ground. The grounding to the unit happens on the secondary side. This is true of most electronics. Since the AC input goes into the unit, then goes to the built-in in line surge protector, and then to the transformer in a loop from one power plug prong to the other. The X0 schematic shows a line input as it is the fused side of the two line loop. Which line is considered the neutral does not really matter. If you want, you can take off the bottom and determine which plug prong is the neutral one.
While there is a difference in the DC readings between the neutral primary and secondary sides that is because they are isolated from each other. As stated above US Models have this same primary to secondary difference in the neutral side.
The CLD-97 also has this loop design and would operate the same with the plug in either direction.
As soon as you plug an audio/video/etc. cable into the unit that also grounds the case of the units together making common secondary side grounds.
The HLD-X0 does benefit from the power conditioning of any decent conditioning unit. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 20 Sep 2021, 05:11
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I'll say this once, seeing how Duncan disappeared from the LD community was not planned or really a proper exit. But for the couple of us that know why it is really a sad story of what happened to him. All I'll say is that included his wife's death and the impact upon him, I'm not saying anymore than that. There should have been someone to clean up and return players and I have no idea what happened there, that is the saddest part that no one tried to clean up items that should have been returned.
I understand people feel ripped off but Duncan's departure was not a good situation either. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 21 Oct 2021, 03:32
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| Trying to remember how I fixed this before, memory starts to go when your in your 60's. I believe the op amp that drives the tilt motor on the main board went bad and I had to replace it. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 26 Oct 2021, 00:30
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The thread you pointed to will give you the details to make the connection to a single player so for the digital output you need to either run 2 digital outputs or design a simple switch/relay circuit that sends the active player signal out.
As for AC-3 RF it depends on if there is 1 or 2 analog audio circuits as this has nothing to do with the digital audio circuitry. AC-3 signal is the right analog audio channel. Again if you have 2 analog audio decoder circuits (one for each player) then you'll need 2 each AC-3 outputs or again design a simple switch/relay to output the active player signal. |
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| krbahr |
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Posted: 26 Oct 2021, 00:34
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| The DNR is always ON with your player. You would need to mod the player to have it default to OFF or mod with a switch to make it selectable. The schematic for the CLD-97 will work for this effort as the only difference is the power supplies. |
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Thanks list