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Posted: 21 Oct 2020, 00:47 

cplusplus wrote:
Kurtis, can something similar be done for the side A tangential adjustment that also calls for GGV-129?


I use my modified screwdriver for that one.

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Posted: 25 Oct 2020, 04:38 

It could always be the cable between the preamp board in the mechanical assembly and the mainboard.

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 Post subject: Re: Belt for CLD-R7G
Posted: 06 Nov 2020, 00:32 

Buy a SCQ3.8 if you want to have one sitting around. It’s the same mechanism used for the CLD-D504/604/505/605/406/606 US models.

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Posted: 06 Nov 2020, 00:47 

The service manual does not break the height motor down into parts, I already sold my Panasonic parts. Maybe someone Has a bad pickup to sell you.

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 Post subject: Re: Belt for CLD-R7G
Posted: 07 Nov 2020, 01:22 

The SCQ3.8 is still a little smaller than the Pioneer VEB1184 so it should go longer without slipping. I moved to this as if the belt is too tight it can wear out the motor bearings.

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Posted: 10 Nov 2020, 00:29 

I recently acquired a Pioneer CLD-D704 via eBay based on its reputation here. Video output when it works is beautiful, however I have two problems I'd like to resolve.

1. Disc load: The player will consistently not accept a LD. The player will take in a disc, then I hear a motor spinning noise, followed by the disc tray ejecting rather than starting play. If I fiddle with the machine and switch to side B it will sometimes start playback, then allow me to switch back to A and play the disc. This is an exercise in timing and button sequence I haven't quite figured out yet. I'm wondering if this could be the belt issue I've read about.

2. After the disc has spun up, and upon changing sides either A to B, or B to A, and also sometimes randomly during playback the machine will shriek like a car's power steering belt.

Are both of these issues the loading belt and grip ring concerns I see discussed here?
https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9181&hilit=cld+d704

Any guidance is appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott
San Diego

Players:
Panasonic LX-1000U (bought in 1992 as display demo from Good Guys of Sacramento)
Pioneer CLD-D704 (eBay purchase Nov 2020)

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While I love my old Panasonic, it's getting finicky in its old age. It no longer recognizes CDs, and refuses to play some LDs which may have varying degrees of disc rot (The Fugitive, AnimeIgo's release of Madox-01/Riding Bean etc.). But, I plan on keeping it and seeing if I can restore it to full function.

You need to buy a SCQ3.8 load belt and then for the spindle motor grip pad slipping on the side change either buy the VEB1237 replacement on eBay or clean the grip pad and coat it with PlastiDip.

Wish people would ask me what I have refurbished before they buy.

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 Post subject: Re: Belt for CLD-R7G
Posted: 11 Nov 2020, 01:33 

If you want the VEB1184 get it now as other threads stated Pioneer laserdisc support has ended. The SCQ3.8 is a generic belt and always available.

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Posted: 11 Nov 2020, 01:37 

There are a few of us that resell or refurbish players further discussions I think belong in the laserdisc hardware category. Think it is a hobby for everyone.

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 Post subject: Re: Belt for CLD-R7G
Posted: 12 Nov 2020, 02:27 

If you want the VEB1184 get it now as other threads stated Pioneer laserdisc support has ended. The SCQ3.8 is a generic belt and always available.

OK, that's great to know the VEB1184 belt also fits the CLDR7G as it also fits my other player the DVL-909. :thumbup:
I thought this belt only fit certain Pioneer players and not the R7G?'

Belt VEB1184 is this only for the tray mechanism or does it also fit for side turn mechanism on both players R7G and the DVL-909?

Thanks

The mechanism for the R7G is the same one they started using in LD players with the CLD-D604, no belt for turning the mechanism, laser movement gear just rides a track to the other side.

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Posted: 16 Nov 2020, 03:33 

Make sure the connections to the front panel board are secure. Verify if you are getting the ON signal back to the power supply. I would follow that signal if it power supply does not receive it o determine why. Also when you plug in the remote control in the back it disables the front controls.

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Posted: 04 Dec 2020, 00:33 

It is more important to never put a player in a closed cabinet, keep fresh air around the unit so it doesn’t overheat.

The disc spinning creates enough air movement to keep the laser lens clean.

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Posted: 13 Dec 2020, 23:48 

If you replace it you need to purchase an ESD insulator sheet. It does not do anything for noise suppression or improve performance, it is an insulator to prevent shorting contacts/pins. Protects the electronics if you put the top on while energized. You would be fine to just leave it off.

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Posted: 19 Dec 2020, 01:17 

There is a capacitor C493 that is 1000uf 16V on the mainboard that seems to go bad in 703 and 704 units. It is the largest capacitor toward the front. It will also blow the ICP-N5 fuse on the board closer the the outside. This powers a video IC and some other stuff that is not used when playing CD’s. CD playback only requires the digital audio section to track the CD. LD requires the video signal path to track. You only see this problem playing LD’s.

This scenario is only valid when CD’s play fine and LD’s spin up but never lock in and play.

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Posted: 24 Dec 2020, 02:48 

For CD's not releasing, the centering ring of the spindle motor extends further up into the hole in the center of the CD than a CD only drive. If you clean the hole out in the center of the CD they will usually then eject fine. Lubricating the CD centering ring can also help as discussed above.

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Posted: 05 Jan 2021, 00:25 

I’d say the TBC memory IC is bad. Only other option is DNR addressing errors the way it repeats. Turn OFF DNR and see if anything changes. This is in one of the processing IC’s so I’d try to get my money back.

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Posted: 07 Jan 2021, 23:54 

IC500 takes in the analog takes in the analog video signal and output the digital signal to IC602 which is where the NR is performed. IC601 uses IC602 for the video memory. IC601 output digital to the video D/A’s to re-create the analog signals. You could try taking the video input at connector CN51 pin 1 and isolating the video D/A IC604 output and and jumper the video signal there to skip the digital processing adding something to allow adjustment of the video level. This is for the composite signal only. The 99 and 79 boards cannot be swapped as the 99 is programmed to have the Mitsubishi Adaptive filter added.

The issue with this 79 is most likely in IC602 as the digital video is sent over as 8-bit video with the sync signals. Most likely IC602 has a memory error as trouble with a video bit would cause issues in every storage pixel. This has issues with specific addresses in the memory. This is not a capacitor issue.

Now I have 2 part 79 units and may be willing to part with a video board. If interested write me at kbahr@comcast.net

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Posted: 07 Jan 2021, 23:58 

Forgot to add pin 20 if IC500 is not pure analog, input pin 47 is digitized and then a D/A creates the pin 20 analog signal. You would want to use CN51 pin 1 or IC500 pin 47 for pure analog.

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Posted: 08 Jan 2021, 00:07 

If you have trouble getting the red standby light replace the small cap on the primary side C14. Then on the secondary side replace the large filtering cap C20 thru C23 to ensure the output supply levels are filtered properly.

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Posted: 23 Jan 2021, 00:29 

There was a company, as mentioned aboce, that made a board you could install internally to demodulate the AC-3 RF but you had to have a separate output as there was no switching between the AC-3 and PCM bitstreams, it took two inputs on your receiver/processor. I've only worked on one unit that had this installed. I believe that there was some type of lawyer pressure from Dolby that quickly ended the sales of these so not many made it to the market.

This was never stock in any laserdisc player.

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Posted: 25 Jan 2021, 23:54 

The remotes for the DVL-700 and DVL-90 will not operate all the functions. You need a remote made for the DVL-91, DVL-909, or DVL-919. The nicest remote is the one for the DVL-91.

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Posted: 07 Feb 2021, 08:28 

The 95 uses a multi-bit DAC and the 97 changed to bitstream. In my CDV-488 I upgraded the op amps to the BB2604, Swapped out the Audio power supply diode bridges and other diodes with Fast settling ones to lower the sound floor, balanced the output from the DAC to have 0V offset so I could remove the output decoupling capacitor. It will give audiophile CD players a good run for its money. You cannot do all this with bitstream DAC's as they don't have the warmth found in the multi-bit DAC's. I'd say the CDV-488, HLD-X9 and HLD-X0 are the best stock units that can have some parts replaced to have really nice sound. Remember digital Audio is only 16 bits and processing that correctly is what makes the sound great, that is what the Philips TDA1541 DAC does. Back in the TDA1541 days the purpose for multi-bit DAC's greater than 16 bits was to process the audio with a larger signal swing as the DAC makers had minor 0V crossover distortion and the larger swing helped reduce the distortion. The TDA1541 would successfully cross over the 0V point accurately and that is why some of the audiophile companies would buy this DAC from Philips and design their units to incorporate this chip. I agree the PCM1702 is also very good and should be respected the same way. The issues is that you need to have an audiophile mentality in listening to the sound to care about this. If you are streaming audio or listening to the compressed files from iTunes or others you already lost the full audiophile sound so you don't need to worry about this.

To the original question in this thread, I agree the CLD-95 would be the way to go but you'll want to use the composite output unless you don't care about the chroma verses luminance line shift in the Y/C output. With the CDV-488 you have to at a minimum put in a higher quality decoupling capacitor for the audio output. If you want do do a lot of modifications I prefer the CDV-488. If you like the bitstream sound get a CLD-D704, the 704 has the same audio components used in the CLD-99. Or if you have an audiophile processor then run the digital out directly to it and you can use any player with a digital output as mentioned above. If you want a 704 PM me.

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 Post subject: Re: CLD-3070 tray
Posted: 08 Feb 2021, 23:23 

The 3070 does not use the typical rubber belt. This would be the tacky grease used in this model.

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Posted: 21 Feb 2021, 23:19 

I normally solder parts directly onto the audio board, that way you don't have to find room to put another board securely inside the player

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 Post subject: Re: Pioneer or Panasonic?
Posted: 03 Mar 2021, 23:34 

The Panasonic players were the other good option opposing the Pioneer players, Runco and MSB took the LX-900U and corrected the video level gain control and put out very nice upgraded LX-900U players. Other high end companies took either the Pioneer CLD-D704 or CLD-99 and performed updates. I do believe the LX-900U was the best unit, the LX-1000U had a lot more pages associated to updates so the 900 which was the last Panasonic unit I believe was the their best effort. I had a LX-900U and I did like the unit, it had a good picture but I didn't like the way the video AGC would correct up (brighten) a dark scene, Was really apparent watching the original BATMAN movie. Otherwise the picture might have been superior. But then I prefer the CLD-97 which is better than all these for my personal taste.

As for working on them the Panasonic LX-900U servo adjustments were all controlled by the remote initiating a routine in the player to adjust itself, you cannot adjust this unit using test equipment to get the desired result. Pioneer players still provide adjustable pots so I much prefer Pioneer from a maintenance side. Also the LX-900U did not provide a RF level adjustment so if the level was a little low there was nothing to do. I can still buy lasers and spindle motors for the common Pioneer units (but not all units), there are no new parts available for Panasonic units, Panasonic totally quit supporting LD format many years ago, you have to find other players for parts.

Yes, the LX-900U does give the CLD-D704 good competition, The Runco or MSB versions of the LX-900U are better.

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Posted: 03 Mar 2021, 23:41 

From the pictures the laser is back too far, for the unit to open it needs to be closer to the spindle motor. Try pushing it forward or turning the motor gear on the side to move it forward and then try to open. If when you try to do anything it just runs to the back again then the micro switch on the laser pickup itself is bad or intermittent. Let us know what happens.
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