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Posted: 11 Jun 2019, 06:06 

With a Bluray recorder can you choose between recording on mpeg-2 or mpeg-4 or whatever?

Another question; there is a BD release of Tomb raider 2001 encoded in mpeg-2, have you seen any DVD release encoded in mpeg-1 ?

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Posted: 18 Dec 2019, 06:11 

My HLD-X9 is also sensitive to warping.

Even a slightly warped disc might cause video sync to get lost, audio to glitch and some weird shaking video effect to appear.

Usually after letting the disc flat under some reasonable weight for a few days, everything gets back to normal.

Julien

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Posted: 31 Dec 2019, 03:16 

Had the same issue with a DVL-909. Opened the cover and played the disc. Yes, the disc is warped, and it was physically touching the laser assembly. This stops the rotation of the disc (probably a failsafe), made the laser crawl back a few centimeters and started playing again.

When I put the same disc in my CLD-D925, it plays without any problem.

So I guess that the laser assembly of a 909 - which has also a laser that reads DVD, and thus needs to be closer to the disc, or is somewhat larger - has more problems with warped discs than a D925.

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Posted: 17 Jan 2020, 04:02 

Anyone have recommendations for what I should look for in a scope?
It needs to be dual-trace. I think Kurtis has recommended a TDS 210 before. I have a newer Tektronix DSO, but if you have the space for an analog one it will save you money.

Just remember you are adjusting to play 1 or 2 junk discs and then could potentially destroy your player.
Very much so.

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 Post subject: Re: Akira 4K Remaster
Posted: 02 May 2020, 18:47 

Screenshots are up now.
https://caps-a-holic.com/c.php?d1=13995&d2=3919&s1=142169&s2=36403&i=0&l=0&a=0

Must say that, judging from these captures, I am not convinced to upgrade from my 10+ year old UK Blu-Ray. While the former release still has its share of issues, the new one suffers from serious noise reduction that I do find very frustrating. At the same time, improvements in terms of sharpness and color timing are not very apparent. I'm fully aware of that film restoration is very expensive and takes time, plus I have no idea what kind of limitations the team had to face so I'm not saying they've done a bad job. It's just that the end product isn't enough for me to buy it once more. Oh well, saves me some money at least.

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Posted: 01 Jul 2020, 01:34 

You need to put it in test mode and do a side A alignment. Either the pickup lenses are not operating properly for side A so the RF signal returned is too weak or the alignments mainly tile and tangential angles, or spindle motor centering are bad and need to be adjusted back into specification.

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Posted: 06 Jul 2020, 02:22 

You have to do adjustments with a CAV recorded discs as the player is continually reading the data off the disc and displaying the picture being read even when paused. With a CLV disc when you pause you get the picture stored in the TBC memory and it does not refresh so you cannot see how your adjustment visually effects the picture.

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Posted: 08 Jul 2020, 15:18 

In all reality if its been sitting for 20 years then it really shouldn't need adjustments.

These nylon pots don't just magically move over time, I think its only due to people messing with them or capacitors/lasers getting weak due to use.

Good luck and keep us posted.

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Posted: 08 Jul 2020, 15:36 

You will need a scope and a test disc with test remote to do an alignment. I think kurtis mentioned before that you can use a normal cav disc for certain adjustments. Some machines require a special test jig which you'd have to make yourself as finding them would probably be impossible. Reading the service manual will give you an idea of what you have to do.

If you do take it apart then film yourself doing it and take many pictures. That way you have a visual guide as to how the machine dissasembles in case you get stuck or lost.

The tar and nicotene from cigarette smoke can settle inside players and on the laser lens. A player that's sat in such environment probably does need a good clean. My brothers 925 was yellow because he kept it in a room he used to smoke in. Even the tray was coated in a thin yellow film. You dont realise until you get a cloth to it. Didnt get round to cleaning the laser on that machine yet but I'm sure it's just as caked as the tray was. I think this issue is exacerbated if the machine is actually being used because all those rpms the disc spins at will be sucking air and smoke through any opening.

Electronics can fail in theory if they havent been powered up in a long time.

Keep us posted.

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Posted: 09 Jul 2020, 10:36 

yep, that's gonna hopefully be my retirement. A small room, an LD player, a case of San Miguel and a carton of Winston lights

I honestly think the cigarettes will keep me sharper in old age.

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Posted: 23 Jul 2020, 23:30 

The screw is not meant to turn around completely. You turned it too far and you are hitting the back flat part. You have to manually move the top assembly to the other extreme and then turn the screw back around. Sometimes the top part looses alignment with the pins it slides on and you’ll have to realign those to get it to move.

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Posted: 25 Jul 2020, 01:49 

The metal base is actually two pieces. The top part pivots on two metal posts which allows for the tilt operation. These posts are about 2 inches behind the spindle motor. The top part also moves side to side using the adjustment screw on the posts. The posts allow the top part to both tilt and align side to side.

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Posted: 02 Sep 2020, 18:18 

Crazy thing happened last night. I was putting some HD-DVDs in the HD-DVD drive I have in my new desktop PC (bought the HD-DVD drive used off of ebay some years ago and just got around to putting in in my new build) so I can take some screengrabs. To play HD-DVDs on my PC, I just open the directories on the disc and find the actual video file on the disc to play with either Media Player Classic or VLC Media Player. One of the discs I was trying to play, I accidentally put it in my blu-ray drive (I actually didn't realize it until I tried taking the disc out) and the blu-ray drive was still able to read the disc!

I was able to open the directories and files without any issue. I had though that since the two formats had different data capacities that they would spin at different RPMs and despite both using blue lasers it wouldn't be able to read the disc. Perhaps they do run at different RPMs, but since computer drives are variable speed, it's able to resolve the speed difference?

In any case, keep this in mind if you ever want to try to play HD-DVDs on your PC if you have a blu-ray drive. You might still be able to play them without an HD-DVD drive!

PS: I've been able to copy the video files from HD-DVDs and put them to a hard drive and just play them that way in case anyone ever want to try to back up their HD-DVDs that might be "rotted"

And a nifty free tool that I use, Media Coder, can resise and recode those files into MP4 files if you want to be able to play them on other devices.

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Posted: 25 Sep 2020, 23:27 

Damn, I had already inquired about getting my X9 serviced earlier this year, and was told that they no longer service them because they no longer have the parts, so I had assumed the same applied to other models.

Would've picked up the partially-working CLD-R5 I saw a month ago and had it repaired if I had known, but pretty sure it's gone now.
The other guy got it and was walking out with it repaired when Julien saw it.

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Posted: 07 Jan 2021, 14:22 


Next, i'm having a bit of an issue here trying to unearth a few Discovision dead sides. I've done this 4 or 5 times a while back (it's been about 6 or 7 years since I did it last), but i'm doing everything right...rubbing alcohol and scrubbing the hell out of it with cotton balls. Same thing I did in the past with success.

Does this really work? I only own one Discovision disc (never tried playing it, got it at a Hard Off for 100 yen for the heck of it), and the rot looks like mouse droppings embedded in the aluminum layer, so I don't think any amount of scrubbing is going to help:

MelvinAndHoward.jpg

That's a flat out damaged disc. The scrubbing to unearth dead sides on Discovision discs that have em is just for that...has nothing to do with removing or repairing rot, etc on main disc.

Dead sides = when the movie ends for instance on side 5 disc 3, and you have a blank side 6. The blank side is unplayable and wont even register in your LD player. It was made to do that. But if you scrub the hell out of that dead/blank side with rubbing alcohol and cotton cloth or cotton balls, it removes the lacquer that they sprayed onto it to make it unplayable to consumers,and reveals whatever they pressed on that side to cover it at the factory.

Sometimes you end up with some side of another Discovision release, you could end up also with training videos for different motor companies of the 70's and on the very rare occasion, unearth a side of a canceled LD release.

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Posted: 07 Jan 2021, 21:09 

jd213 wrote:
Ah, I've been toying with the idea of doing this myself, but it's probably beyond my capabilities.

It's not too bad- definitely easier than LD servicing.

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Posted: 08 Mar 2021, 18:27 

If you touched tangential, make sure you check centering afterwards.

For Side B centering, make sure tracking servo is off before adjusting. If you don't have a test disc, I would still pause on frame #115.

I lock tangential and centering with nail polish.

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Posted: 23 Apr 2021, 15:04 

I'd clean and re-grease the shaft if this is only Side A.

That doesn't explain the OSD issue though. I'm wondering if it is a power issue? I'm not sure, just throwing ideas out.

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Posted: 08 Jun 2021, 22:18 

jd213 wrote:
Are there any oscilloscope readings I should take while I have my X9 open?

I'd just check frame 115 with your TV settings noisy as possible. Check the inverse as well a few frames after it (white bar, black background).

If that looks good, just check RF level with scope.

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Posted: 06 Aug 2021, 05:29 

Are we sure that a cap should go there?
Yes- see my photo here: https://forum.lddb.com/viewtopic.php?p=123097#p123097

Cap list I wrote down a while ago (double check it):
SKS-1:
C1, C2, C14, C15: 10uf 16v
C13 4.7uf 16v

SKS-2M:
C5, C6: 22uf 6v

AP1-3:
C1, C2, C3: 10uf 16v
C4: 47uf 16v

Also note that I told you wrong cap value for the missing one in photo. It is 10uf 16v.
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