I suppose clock/oscillation failure could cause this kind of problem. Its difficult to try and figure out how this chip is implemented without a service manual. Pin 9 and 10 are both inputs. Looking at section 14 (page 223 of pdf) of the spec sheet, these can be wired up to two external clocks with reverse phases. Or have one external clock connected to pin 10 (EXTAL). I think section 14.3 (page 263) is showing what should be on pins 23, 24?

Pin 1 is the input clock for the 16 bit free running timer whereas pins 2 and 3 are the outputs. Pins 17 and 20 are the inputs for the 8 bit timer clock. Pins 19 and 21 are the outputs. Could be worth checking these points for oscillation?

What pins do the XL5 crystal correlate to when you test continuity? It looks like a 2 pin crsytal. So, I'm assuming its +5v on one pin and oscillation with voltage on the other. Are you getting voltage at XL5? You could always take it out and power it externally and test with scope for oscillation. Have you checked the load capacictors?

Crystal XL5 has 3 pins!...+2.2 volts to 'gnd' seen on pin 10..nothing on Pin 9!...no oscillation on any pin. I assume the Crystal operates upto 5Volts.....I also assume that supply voltage can be on either pin 1 or 3 and the Crystal will still run!?..question.. which Microcontroller Pin (pin 9 or 10) should be the supply.?!

No oscillation seen on the other pins queried...nor Voltage.

See Pic of underside of PCB showing XL5 crystal 3 pin connection. Middle Pin is GND. Other two pins directly goto Pin 9 and Pin 10 ...cant see any other connection related to XL5...no capacitors! (see pic)..perhaps not needed in this design?!




Will remove XL5 tomorrow ..will look to try and make it oscillate..never tried to drive a crystal myself before...can I just give it some voltage and ground.?!
Stamped on the Crystal is '10.0T' and underneath that lookslike an 'm' not sure if this means 10mhz or ?

Pic Example of what XL5 Lookslike

Okay so it looks like XL5 is a 3 pin ceramic resonator. I believe these have capacitors built in and may not need external components to work. Im sure its voltage on one pin ground to the middle pin and oscillation from the third pin. I would suggest starting low and slowly ramping up voltage until you see it oscillate. Try it out of circuit.

Only having voltage on Pin 10 (Extal) can make sense because it could be the only clock input on the chip. The voltage might be coming through but the resonator could be damaged and not providing the oscillation. Im assuming that '10.0T' is 10Mhz. If you have a frequency generator you could try to pump 10Mhz into the chip externally.

One thing that stands out to me is the picture of the board. Is that damage to the trace near XL5? or is it just a bit of dust?

Whipped the Crystal out....ramped up slow with the power supply...nothing no oscillations up to 5volts....no output...only signal Im seeing on the scope is a little low frequency ripple from the power supply DC voltage.

Don't have a signal generator unfortunately.

Wish I had another crystal just to prove my test setup works. Hard to go any further..unless I can find a replacement crystal perhaps.

A close up of the actual crystal:



Dust in Photo .just dust on the PCB tracks...early photo before it was cleaned.

The Brand and manufacturer..CERALOCK by Murata..I think its part number CST10.0MTW! The datasheet for the range in question https://www.rf-microwave.com/resources/products_attachments/5a4386d20b5cc.pdf

Possible source of replacement:
https://www.rf-microwave.com/en/murata/cst10-0mtw/10-mhz-ceramic-resonator/rce-10m/ Wants a minimum of $50 order
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/murata-cst100mtw-resonator-crystal-for-micro-controllers-10mhz-i968806300.html Only delivery to Indonesia! Might have to keep looking!

Research says this particular Crystal became obsolete in 2012... perhaps this is the replacment?!

https://www.murata.com/en-us/api/pdfdownloadapi?cate=cgsubResonators&partno=CSTLS10M0G53-A0

Difference I can find between original Resonator CST10.0MTW and CSTLS10M0G53 :
Internal Load Capacitance is 30pF for CST and 15pF for CSTL Resonator...would that matter?!

Looking at the Microcontroller's PDF Datasheet..it specifies Load Capacitance at 15-22pF for an external crystal circuit to be connected... so assuming..CSTLS10M0G53 should be ok.!?

for ref: Another ceramic resonator from Murata has a 47pF Load Capacitance - CSTLS10M0G56

Try it and see. As far as my research goes XL5 should resonate with voltage applied so unless we are missing something, that very well could be the cause of the fault.

Yes think it could be the fault as well...no clock running and Display does not go past its power start-up state.

Ordered a CSTLS10M0G53 3 pin 10mhz crystal from the UK...given the slow delivery at the moment...wont get it until mid August if lucky!....so will have to be patient! Certainly nothing to lose in trying to swap it out.

FWIW, the power LED on the Pioneer RFD-1 demodulator I got used for like $30 5 years ago never lit up, but the unit itself always performed flawlessly.

Looking forward to seeing if this is the solution. Having a weird issue with my SDP-E800 and starting to look at one or more oscillators that might be an issue or not.

Will post the result for sure!...Last couple of fixes needed in my older late 90's audio gear (amplifier and av receiver) have both been Microcontroller related..one fault was one input stopped working...the other was complete internal failure...certainly age is a factor.

Forgot to update this - Well short story - replaced with another crystal same result - believe Microcontroller likely issue - recently lucked in with another complete DDP-1 unit for cheap - a Japanese 100volt unit -swapped in my old Power Supply Transformer and leads and have a working unit at the correct mains voltage.

Good to know you got it working regardless what the solution was.

I just replaced a ceramic oscillator in my Sony SDP-E800 just over a week ago and still testing for a glitch. It usually has an issue cutting out sound about every 20 days or so on the six channel output only. I’ll update my posting in about 3 weeks if it keeps going fine.

Well, I just stumbled onto this topic with the exact same symptoms. I just ordered the microprocessor from Aliexpress, figured it was worth a shot. Should be here by the end of the month.

Reviving a dead thread, but for good reason. I recently got a Yamaha DDP-1 and it exhibited similar symptoms to OPs.

As indicated in the post above, I ordered the micro processor from utsource.com but it didn't make a difference! Read below for the actual fix. BTW, the chip was $5 but shipping was $25, oh well.

When I pushed the power button, the display would initially light up YAMAHA DDP-1 etc. but it would not load the second part which would be to indicate no RF signal.

I've had a couple other DDP-1 failures before this one and received some good advice from someone over at LDF to check the voltage regulators.

IC22 and IC23 were both bad. These are 7805A (similar part https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/stmicroelectronics/L7805ACP/1038231)

Each time I repaired a DDP-1, it has always been a 7805A voltage regulator. One of the symptoms was the machine would fire up fine but not process an AC-3 signal.

I attached a couple images below to illustrate where these are. IC23 is difficult to remove - you need to use a pair of pliers to first remove the set screw, then you can un-solder the part.

Board (excuse the dirt, waited to clean it until I knew I could fix)


Old voltage regulators

Hi.
I've got some pictures from DDP-1 Service Manual I am well aware it's not the best quality .

Bit of topic but perhaps useful
I've got an idea for Auto-Switch digital output TOSLINK mod on Input Selector IC5 pin #9. (Not tested yet)

I have been working on a mod to finally get a workable digital output from this unit that allows access to all the inputs and I came to the same conclusion that pin 9 of IC5 is the way to go.

However, instead of auto switching, why not keep it manual switching since it would work that way from this pin. It’s better to have the ability to manually choose between PCM and AC3?

Well if you want the manual switching then you can consider this mod successful .
Tested and working with the INPUT Select button - RF - OPT. COAX.
I am however lazy don't want to get up from the couch so I will design auto switch.

Now I love my Yamaha DDP-1 with Auto Dolby Digital AC3 switch.
Just listening to the ending credit on Highlander movie with AC3 sounds beautiful.

Just few pictures of the installation on ssop breakout board (no pcb)
Works great and even plays DTS CD on my Pioneer CLD 704.