Meridian 519 shows only a yellow light for power. I have played AC-3 and DTS LDs: A Little Princess and Nightmare Before Christmas plus I have tried CDs. It no longer works. When directly inputed to my receiver from the Pio CLD-79 works nicely.

Last I used it I think was a few months ago. Everything is plug in correctly. rf in, optical to optical in and optical out to receiver.

open it up and post a pic maybe the cab blew on the top board

looks fine to me but I don't know anything. could it be the cables or something else?

so the power goes on but the lock light won t go?

Get a diff rca cable from the laserdisc to the demodulator without connecting it to the reciever and see if you can get a lock signal.

Also try this with a Optical cable in

no lock and I've used every cable I have.

try contact cleaner on the connections only.

i'll look for it then. just spray it on the connections on the Meridian or should I also do the CLD-79?

yes, just the metal parts.
you can spray a q-tip or something and brush it/wipe it.
also can do on the player, it won't hurt.
but don't just spray wild, you might even check out a video on utube?
even if the contacts are gold it's such a thin layer that there may be some dirt.

the wire came out as I was trying to put it back the way it was. Any iadea how I can make it not loose anymore? Also how do you put the back plate inside the cover? I did use the spray on all connections. Just now putting it back together.

is that wire out of the white holder?

that may have been the problem the entire time, it may not have been crimped correctly and
lost contact.

you would have to take it to radio shack and look in the connector section in the drawers.
if not then you have to order on either on the bay or the like.

you would just crimp the metal and push it back in, it locks into the white plastic and you can
never get them out to repair.

also if you get some thin metal or pins you could try and take out the old metal piece and reuse it.
as for the back i would have to see a better picuture.

if you can also test it before you try doing more etc.
hold that yellow wire in when testing to see if the cleaner did the trick.
if not then you may need to think of other options.

here's a better pic of the back. I'll check it and see if that's the problem.

looks like you should put the lip over the back plate first then push the front down?
almost like an angle / then flat on the front _
hope that makes sence

can't seem to get the wire to stay in the metal thing.. should I strip it some to have more wire exposed?

rein-o is correct. You can usually get the metal connector out of the palstic housing. There's a "hook" on the connector (metal) and usually an access to it (either where the wire comes out or where it plugs in). About the size of a toothpick. I use a small jewelers screwdriver. If you "flatten" the hook the connector will come out. Then you can either re-crimp or (even better) apply a small amount of solder. Re shape the hook and plug the connector back into the housing. If you got a Molex kit you'd get the housing and the connectors would be loose. You'd have to install them the same way.
It's a little tricky but it can be done. In most cases what ever was assembled can be disassembled....

so I got someone to redo and solder the metal to the wire but I can't push it down and I think I'm making it worse

Can anyone look at it?

finally got around to this

It was probably never soldered in the first place. That looks like a pretty common crimp terminal. Ideally you'd crimp a new terminal on there, remove the old one from the connector. In a Mad Max situation the old parts could probably all be resurrected.

Also, that connector is only there to make final assembly easier. You could just solder all three of those wires to the board.

I got it fixed or at least the crimp on the wire is solder but it doesn't go all the way down the hole on the molex

where would I solder it on the board since there are pins that molex hooks onto?

you would just solder the wires straight to the pins that stick up that would normally be coverd by the molex.

you won't mess anything up but the warranty

I can't solder it so should I take it back to that place and tell them to solder the wires directly to the board or I suppose someone here could?