What can I say? I'm a tube guy

The 6189 in my tube book redirects me to the 12AU7A data. Its another 9A base dual-triode tube. 9A base refers to its pinout configuration, 9A is a standard for a number of minuature dual-triode. The famous 12AX7. Has the same pinout and operational limitations, but it has a gain factor of 100 where a 12au7 has a gain of about 17. In many cases, you can run a 12ax7 if the circuit can handle the gain.

Dual-triode means there two triode sections. This is why people call them stereo tubes when technically they're not. A lot of stereo ampsrun both channels through the same tube. I don't think the PV12 does, but I've not found a good clear schematic.

But the 6189 is a "premium" 12au7, up there with 5963, and 5184 (or 5814, I'm horribly dyslexic). Again, they're just tubes built to tighter specs.The 5963s are listed as sometimes having a gain of 21, in any circuit you'd be hard pressed to tell a difference.

Still, if I have two of the same tube, I like to have them resonaly matched. Its like I have reasonaly matched 5963s in amps where they don't actually need matched tubes. My 6v6 outputs need to be matched since they're working in a push-pull configuration.

NOS Mullards are great and pricy, just like any Telefunken tube. Those are regarded as really well made tubes . I've got several NOS Sylvanias 5963s and several RCA 5963s; black-plate RCAs too. Black-plate nakes no difference really, not in the 5963s I have. 6189s are a premium along with the other 4 digit number I mentioned earler. Again, premium because they were made to tighter specs. JJ/Tesla makes an ECC802 that's a 12AU7 with a spral filament, I've heard they sound good if you want to go new production. They run something like $24 each.

But, seriously, you can find great prices on NOS tubes on ebay. Used tubes can be an excellent value if someone has tested them. I've got used tubes that test better than average new ratings.But its something when you find a 50 year old tube that's not only still in service, but still works well.

Ultimately, the cathode coating emits its supply of elecrons and stops conducting. Happens in power output tubes more than anyting else. I've got 50 year old rectifier tubes...they still have plenty of life left.

But, if you ever decide to pick up some new (to you) tubes, feel free to ask me for advice. Can't ya tell I love talking about tubes?

dewdude-
Wow looks like your the "tube nut" of the forum. I mean that in a good way! One advantage of tube equipment over transistor is that it's so easy to modify and experiment with the sound by switching up the tubes. With transistor, your kind of stuck with what you got. I plan to keep an eye out for tubes for my equipment so that I can do some experimentation. My 3 primary tube based hardware pieces have now all had at least a secondary set of tubes and it has been joy to "play" with these alterations.

Just brought a cheap 3meter RCA to RCA phone lead as the current one used for Pioneer Laerdisc player analogue out to the AVR to Harman to CP65 the cable has slight iffy snag in it that takes a bit of doodling around to get an even/equal signal. Its working fine at the moment so it should, hold up for two days until the new lead arrives for £1.99 free postal, won’t get a lead of that length at MAPLINS for that price!

If you want some high quality RCA cable but don't want to break the bank, I suggest the site bluejeanscable.com. If your passing a digital signal it doesn't matter, but if your passing an analog signal don't go to cheap with the RCA cable. I was not a believer in cables making a difference but when I upgraded it really made a significant difference in my audio. If you have thousands of dollars in your system, don't skimp. All cables are not created equal. Certainly I don't recommend spending $2,000 on a single pair of exotic RCA cables but don't go with the absolute cheapest.

I would never spend £2grand on cable even if robbed Bill Gates I've heard of Blue Jeans Cable I'm not that far living in the caveman age.

I have another lead that goes from the analouge Phillips bluray player that looks like its been chewed on by my cat no doubt!

I caught the little bugger last weekend on top of the video projector and it could have gone for test flight! I have no idea what my cat gets up to when sleeping. He prowls around looking for anything that looks like snake and starts crewing on it.

So no doubt I have small break in the cable its not a big deal to change. If it was 2K cable it would be big deal a lot of snake oil, if you ask me. I'd take my chances on 1.99 cable over being handed £1million that I would turn down in heartbeat.

I'm not like everyone, I hardly ever do play the national lottery, now I know I can get my hands on Dolby gear that would have cost new £15grand for £165 or £10.00 pounds.

I have to re-wire the whole rack when its completed with multi-stand and that cable goes cheaply the other brands that was used to wire the Dolby CP's was priced high near to £1grand and they can keep it!

One seller week before last had 100meters for £10.00 then he bumped up the price overnight to near £60.00 and I'm very tight! If it can brought for £36.00 or less for 100 meters what would you do?

I'm holding out on the multi-stand cable until I have least a third rack with newer amps in it then start the wiring soldering connecting up, otherwise I'd be tempted to use it too early and it would only be waste.

The Dolby and Sony gear will be racked in one rack and if I have any space left in it to fit 1U rack gear I'll do so. Also I have to fit the Yamaha RX-V650 into the rack to keep it near and cable lengths as short as possible, so that AVR would need a 4U rack tray.

I think I'll only have room maybe for a couple of 1U units.

As for the amps again I've been doing some thinking and EPQ304 would be idea for the Puke transducers with their own amp for each x6 cinema seats.

I'm giving it same thought for the surrounds since the surrounds are closer around the seating and running each of the x12 surrounds with their own amp but that would mean... x4 EPQ304. At least this way I can have each surround with its own EQ or maybe, maybe a DCX2496 so I can time-align phase and frequency response for each surround while the master EQ for the sidewall and rear back will tighten it all up.

Still the 1U rack single 2channel amps is not bad at least they'd be a bit more power on tap for the surrounds to handle from the loudest at normal fader level or the softest ones at higher fader level, if I wanted.

Normally I doubt I'm even pushing near to 2watts for the surrounds I know what 1watt sounds like on control 12SR DAMN LOUD! 50watts, 8ohms /75watts 4ohms for each surround might be more than enough since they're within 1.6m located above the seating.

It would also reduce a huge cost in the long run and more manageable to control rather than chasing my tail around in circles!

As for Blue Jeans all I get is list of sodden emo attack of the iopd's crap! Nope not interested.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Blue+jeans+cable

If your looking for bluejeans audio cable, I wouldn't go to ebay, they never really have their stuff. Most people who buy the cables don't ever end up selling them. Here is the link if your interested: http://bluejeanscable.com/store/audio/index.htm

Mate, you may be made of money but I'm not. I bet the plugs coast more than my second Dolby CP45 for £10.00. And I didn't have £4.5grand around when the model was introduced in the mid/late 90's.

Subwoofer cable as if that's going to be the answers and solution to most home users issues with ground loops humming/buzzing at 50/60Hz.

I wouldn't have to plug the lead in to find out its humming at 50Hz a direct lead to RTA would show if I have spike hanging around at 50Hz.

When I re-wire I'm going to keep the audio leads as far away from the mains cables in the rack. If not keep the mains on one side and audio input/output on the other side on the inside the rack frame.

Usually just attaching a short wire to one or many items on the outside by screwing the cable to whatever it may be, then attaching the other end on each item in the sound chain until the buzz/hum shorts out and then screw the wire to that item 9 out 10 it works, but with I lost count of how many items I have, it takes a few hours.

The Blue Jeans looks nice but I would not spend so much for a single cable and hanging on the hope it going to make the analouge sound great on my CP65.

Buying cheap is not bad. Yeah we all heard about Monster Cable with THX on it and I turned my nose up at it. £25.00 for lead no longer than 1.5m are you kidding me! I bet thou sold THX cables like hotcakes, not.

a friend popped over this, evening to look at a small job I have for him, to drill out the holes in that 3U rack ear that doesn’t fit the Sony DFP3000 as the holes are in the wrong place and so tomorrow he should get back to me same day with the new holes in the correct position so I can get that Sony racked up as its been some 6 or 8 weeks now its been laying around.

He took measurements by marking it out on the rack ear plate and with machine at his, works as its all specialized gear should only take a couple of minutes plus he can find out what thread size the screws are as I have one that fits the side of Sony and he thinks, its mounting screw for a PCB board.

Before leaving I said I was getting back into collecting Laserdiscs I didn't have one spinning at the time, as this was weekday, quick pop-over, he seemed interested in the White Sands Laserdisc so might ask him, if he like to see it sometime?

Week before last a friend cut some holes at his, works on special machine that do this x or y z or whatever, doesn't really matter the cutting of it is just fine the red circles show where the cuts where made as the 3U rack bracket was miles out with Sony SDDS decoder.



The new slot holes allows the rack to be portioned up or down or forwards/backwards slightly so that the screw fittings fit.

I've only fitted the brackets early this morning in the sweltering heat. I cannibalized some screws of an EQ that is not in use its the bedroom and a screw of DVD player that is not in use and one or few screws will not prevent them from working.

My friend thinks there B4 screws and he couldn't find that matches up at his works that does specialized gear.

So I wasn't going muck around looking on eBay I found some and "if the shoe fits ware it".



I'm not sure if I want to rack it up and go with using one of AUX inputs can't recall which one but I'll find it as its been a few months since I tested the (preset 7). I still need a old pc that I might be forced to buy next week really cheap to run the old WindowsXP with the software to set it up.

Looking at the rack (shaking my head) there is no way I can find any space not without shifting the compressor/limiter, sub EQ, 1/3 EQ and the DCX into the other rack and I need help installing it as weights a bit to handle by myself the CP500 was a bit easier by myself by the Sony is a bit deeper and I don't want bend the rack ears.

I really, really need another Samson SRK21 rack or maybe a taller rack plenty of cheap ones at incredible rock bottom prices most are industrial ones for Computer Servers and a 19" rack is a 19" rack and some come with power fittings and you don't get that with overpriced racks of that size that would cost £800 or £1500 which is insane.

The rack ears have been set back a little bit so that the hatch swings open otherwise if set too forward the hatch would only open a little bit. The Sony rack ear is different in design it has kind of curved shape that allows the hatch to freely swing open.



The Dolby CP500 has its rack ears set back or its rather part of the whole unit like the rest of the CP's. So having the Sony sticking out by 10mm is not a big deal.



Got get a fan to fit that runs quieter or run the fan at slower setting or find a simple way to blow cool air around the power supply which seems easy enough.

That's quite the array of speakers you've got back there.

The tiniest new addition is the Yamaha APD-1 Dolby RF demodulator that makes a big huge sound difference at un-cracking the code between the Laserdisc player to the final decoding of the signal. WOW it surely does open my Dolby AC-3 collection now and thou a little p!ssed I sold off some Dolby AC-3 laserdiscs during the early 2000 for the DVD I won’t be making that mistake again...

Well was kinder hoping to get the Sony SDDS racked up and it doesn't fit the rack ears are too short can you believe that? By a few millimetres. My friend might have some spaces at his works that will allow the rack ears to reach the mounting holes only other problem is the screws he thinks their B4 type only snag is he doesn't have anything of that size at his works much less the length as the length now needs to be slightly longer if used with spacers.



Since picture was taken after I fitted the MDX DCX BFQ back on the right side rack as I was going to mount the Sony above the GEQ3102 EQ which is placed above the CP65.

It took a few minutes to unplug and about an hour to plug 21 XLR back up and test that its running in the correct order. Breath In...Breath Out...

My friend might, might be able to get a old working pc tower that might no have any use at the works and that would be good, otherwise no big deal to get a cheap one of ebay for £39.00 with Windows XP to run the software for the Sony!

Meanwhile he helped out putting up the bracket for the projector as my other friend was tired up and gave him the tools. It only took around an hour and half and then he went home, I now have to align it up and wait for my friend to pop over with decent drill to do a small hole for the cables to pass though on the far end of the room in to the kitchen to the projector...Breath In...Breath Out...




Its got to be tilted at the right angle so the light hits the screen and then fix some small pieces of wood around the rear sides of the projector so it doesn't move out of position...plus make it Sooty proof as he's already jumped up onto the fridge and it only takes him a few moments to suss out how to jump up onto base where the projector is and start chewing on cables!

He's a little bugger.

The wall has to be sanded down and re-painted a different colour!

The picture frame can then be fitted to the back wall in the living room and that would be that, I hope.

how far is the distance from your projector to the screen?
for mine if i have an 80 inch 2 meter screen i need to have my projector about 10.4 to 12.3 feet away
or 3.2 to 3.8 meters away.

that's what my instructions say.

my living room / dinning room is long so i can setup the screen at one end but i have to put my
projector on a stool so i can change the distance for 4.3, 16.9 or 2.35

i also marked on the metal post on the back of the screen where each size is located.
so it's more like a theatre but without the curtains.

Its about 164 inches throw. The manual I threw it out the window its good for a bit more further back but as you can see that is it I can't go any further back the screen size is good enough it dwarfs TV.

Well I'm going to level it up and see what bits of timber I have laying around to clamp it into position. I might have to leave drilling until tomorrow.

I forget to set the camera to auto focus for some shots.


Zoom on projector pulled back. The TV is left on to show the size.


Zoom on projector opened up to full. I've adjusted keystone to angle the image bend on the sides in by 20°.


I'm standing off to the right and that is about as much as I can get out of it.

cool, i've been meaning to get some pictures of my screen in the daylight so you can see the
sizes.

and also do the zooming stuff so others can see it.
i feel it's always hard dealing with projectors since there are not too many places with them
to demo, it's all the large TVs now.

Read up on the manual and see how large it can go and placed and get back as far as it go the further back the bigger image. I think mine can go somewhere around over 200 inches but I don't have room long or wide enough for that. I'm happy with size plus it being out of the way makes it sound quiet even though I can still hear it as the picture frame hasn't be fitted over the hole yet, but its nowhere near as loud as it used to be.

mine will give me a maximum size of 150 inches.
but i don't have the space for that size of screen, 80 inch 4:3 is all i can deal with.
that will also give me a 76 inch 16:9 screen

Mine is somewhere over 103 - to about 105 inches 4:3 its a bit hard to hold the tape-measure I'll get a better measurement when my friend pops over again.

Inside the manual you will find these aspects on CP X430:
Before use: here you can check on the content of the package
Installation: cabling and example of system setup
Operation: basic operation and menu options
Maintenance: Lamp, air filter and other maintenance
Troubleshooting, specification and warranty.
Specification of CP-X430


Item Specification
Product name Liquid crystal projector
Panel size 2.3 cm (0.9 type)
Drive system TFT active matrix
Pixels CP-X430:786,432 pixels (1024 horizontal x 768 vertical)
CP-S420:480,000 pixels (800 horizontal x 600 vertical)

Lens Zoom lens F=1.7 ~ 2.1 f=36.8 ~ 47.8 mm
Lamp 250 W UHB
Speaker 1.0W+1.0W (stereo)
Power supply AC100 ~ 120V, 4.5A / AC220 ~ 240V, 1.9A
Power consumption 410W
Temperature range 0 ~ 35°C (Operating)
Size 360 (W) x 106 (H) x 256.5 (D) mm
Weight (mass) 4.5 kg
RGB IN Video: Analog 0.7Vp-p, 75? terminator (positive)
H/V. sync.: TTL level (positive/negative)

Composite sync.: TTL level

D-sub 15-pin shrink jack

DVI (CP-X430 only) TMDS, DC: 150~1200 mV / AC: 1.56 Vp-p
TTL Level (Positive/Negative)

AUDIO IN 200mVrms, 50 k? (max. 3.0Vp-p)
Stereo mini jack

VIDEO IN 1.0Vp-p, 75? terminator
RCA jack

S-VIDEO IN Brightness signal: 1.0Vp-p, 75? terminator
Color signal: 0.286Vp-p (NTSC, burst signal),75? terminator

0.300Vp-p (PAL/SECAM, burst signal),75? terminator

Mini DIN 4-pin jack

COMPONENT VIDEO Y - 1.0 Vp-p, 75ohm Terminator (Positive)
CB/PB - 0.7 Vp-p, 75ohm Terminator (Positive)

CR/PR - 0.7 Vp-p, 75ohm Terminator (Positive)

AUDIO IN L - 200mVrms, 50 k ohm (max. 3.0Vp-p)
R - RCA jack

RGB OUT Video: Analog 0.7Vp-p, 75? output impedance (positive)
H/V. sync.: TTL level (positive/negative)

Composite sync.: TTL level

D-sub 15-pin shrink jack

AUDIO OUT 200mVrms, output impedance 1 k ohm (max. 3.0Vp-p)
Stereo mini jack

Control functions CONTROL - D-sub 15-pin shrink plug
USB - USB jack (B type)


Optional Parts Lamp: DT00471
Air Filter: NJ06131

http://hitachi-homeelectronics.us/suppo ... s_0205.pdf

2,500 ANSI lumens
• Native XGA resolution
• 9.9 lbs
• 2 RGB inputs and RGB
output/DVI inputs
• Manual zoom/manual focus
• Contrast ratio 350:1
• HDTV theater ready
• FCC class B
• Component/composite/S-video
• Vertical & horizontal keystone correction
• “My screen” (user programmable start-up screen)
• Reverse image function for ceiling mount
• Remote control with laser pointer
• Whisper mode 36dB
• 16:9 mode
• Digital zoom/freeze function
• Switchable IR receiver for
remote controller
• Gamma correction
• Supplied with soft case
• Kensington security slot
• Picture in picture

Model name CP-X430 series
Liquid crystal panel structure 0.9” polysilicon active-matrix TFT x 3
Number of pixels 786, 432 pixels (H 1,024 x V 768)
Resolution Video 540 TV lines
RGB 1024 dots x 768 lines
Colors 16.7 million colors
Aspect ratio Native 4:3/16:9 compatible
Lens Manual zoom 1:1.3 (F1.74 - 2.08)
Throw ratio (distance:width) 1.94 ~ 2.57 : 1
Lamp 250W UHB
Expected lamp life Approx. 2,000 hours
Brightness 2,500 ANSI lumens (2,000 ANSI lumens in whisper mode)
Contrast ratio 350 : 1
Speakers 1W x 2
Power supply AC100-120V/AC220-240V 50/60Hz
Power consumption 410W
Operating temperature 0°~ 35°C (32° ~ 95° F)
Input signals RGB VGA, SVGA, XGA, SXGA (COMPRESSED), MAC13”, MAC16”
Composite video NTSC, NTSC4.43, PAL, PAL-M, PAL-N, SECAM, PAL60, S-video
Component video 480i, 575i, 480p, 1,080i, 720p
Acoustic noise level 40dB (36dB in whisper mode)
H sync 15kHz ~ 80kHz
V sync 50Hz ~ 120Hz
Vertical keystone correction Digital keystone +/- 15°
Horizontal keystone correction Digital keystone +/- 5°
Approvals UL, C-UL, FCC Class-B, CE, TUV
RGB input Digital RGB DVI x 1
Analog RGB 15-pin D-sub connector x 2
Audio Stereo mini jack x 2
Audio output Stereo mini jack x 1
Video input S-video Mini DIN 4-pin connector x 1
Composite video RCA jack x 1
Component video RCA jack x 3
Audio RCA jack x 2 (L/R)
Control terminals 15-pin D-sub connector x 1
USB connector (USB mouse) x 1
Compatible controls PS/2, ADB, Serial
RS-232C (Serial)
Dimensions 14.2” x 4.2” x 10.1” (W x H x D)
Weight 9.9 lbs.
Supplied accessories Remote control with laser pointer, PS/2 mouse
cable, batteries (AA), power cord, RCA
component cable, RGB cable, multiple language operator/
safety manual, soft case
Lamp CPX430LAMP (Part #: DT00471)

Screen Size 4.3 Throw distance
Diagonal* Width* Min* Max*
40 32 62 82
60 48 94 123
80 64 127 164
100 80 160 205
120 96 192 246
150 120 241 308
200 160 323 411

I've set the Phillips bluray to 1080i and adjusted a few other settings which seems to have improved mildly over (video) in video component the 1:33.1 centred where I had it set at letterbox and it was all starched horizontal.


Off air BBC2 1986 linear mono VCR copied to DVD-RW.


DVD R2 collection The Trouble with Tribbles, Dolby Digital 5.1. This one looks nice on DVD I'll have to look for the HD-DVD box-sets.


I used night time tripod mode for this shot its a little fuzzy as I was holding the camera (hence it should be mounted on a tripod).