I have a Pioneer HF9G ,Japanese,.,100v unit…I would like to change it into a 120v…
In the pic..a 120v cld99 board is outside the machine ..they are nearly identical….
What I know about electronics you can put on the head of a pin…a very small pin..
Anyone?

I don’t know what your question is but it seems like you are talking about swapping power supplies. If you don’t know anything then how do you know you need to change the power supply? That’s a very high level determination for a neophyte.

I’m no expert but from looking at the pic you provided both of those power supplies are rated for 120VAC so I’d assume the HF9G was built with US compatible power supply and you are wasting your time and money messing with stuff that is already fine.

Looks like minor differences on the primary side only, most likely due to the safety grounding requirements in the US market.

I agree the majority of the Pioneer electronics use a common design for the Japanese and US market.

My question is..what component(s) on the board needs to change to make it 120v?…
The cld 503/703-4/79/99 all use the same power supply.. likely more..
Same goes for much if not all of the mechanical parts,,,


Side note…the LD S9 is Not a total clone of the 99..it does not play CDs and the turntable is S2 size..theyve remove the pieces required to make this work..nor is the hf7g a complete clone of the 704…it has to do with the display board and input cable ,,Ive found this from searching for Donor players.

I don’t understand. What is the point of this work? This player ALREADY HAS A 120VAC POWER SUPPLY. You will see and experience literally no change after a swap because you’re swapping in what is essentially an identical part.

Who told you you needed this? Mod nothing. Just plug it in the wall and go. Save the extra supply for when the player eventually fails the one it came with.

I don’t know. Maybe I’m missing something here…

Thats what it says..why is a Japanese unit ,with the 100v plug,using a 120v board…which is what is confusing for me,,…your answer is part of what I wanted to know…

I recently picked up a Japanese CLD959 off ebay(from the US) ..$217… its in the rack ,so I dont have pics of the board..a few issues…all fixed butt one….it has a 100v power supply and someone changed the cord to 3 prong 120v..yet the power board is still 100v…..Im using a converter on it….so someday,hopefully, ,when I do the NR mod and attempt to fix the analog output ,I’ll take a pic of the 100v board and ask again,,,,..or swap it with my spare 99…
This is another example of what confuses me (easy to do) this board is from an EAD/TV..its 250v..krbahr said it was European..its in my repair box, used 120v from a 503 to replace it..

Devices that were only rated to 100VAC and not capable of handling 120VAC basically died in the 90s. Later players often have 120V PS in all NTSC variants. The X9, X0, and such are different but cheaper players are all like this by the time this player came out.

Putting a three prong cable on a JDM 959 is weird and unnecessary. I’m not sure why someone would do that. JDM devices are non-polarized and have no third prong so they are compatible with every US outlet from the last century. An American who wants to make sure the player always trips the breaker correctly can simply run a ground from the case to the screw on the wall outlet but I never do.

Yea..the 959 has a ground wire…So Im sure about this../the 20volt difference is meaningless?…Using a 100v unit with 120v wont harm it?…Ive read here ,that its not a good idea…Or am I just peeing in the wind with this?

I apologize for the vague ,dumb questions..my knowledge is minimal .Im trying to gather as much as I can…like the comment I mentioned about the S9..little tidbits can give one a Eureka moment…

Just for general info..might help someone..
More on the 250v board..krbahr mentioned it had a jumper to change voltage..I think he meant this(see pic)…he didnt respond to my post ..hes spread thin ,answering so many questions..
Krbahr
“The top one is the US power supply and the bottom is the European power supply. US uses 120V and Europe uses 240V. Outputs are the same. The European may have jumpers to make it work for 120V, cannot really see the connector by the two large caps at the input but that is where the European unit could have the selector connections for 120 or 240”.

When you actually have a 100VAC PS and you plug it into a 120VAC outlet the voltage difference isn’t meaningless. It may cause the PS to fail sooner. This is the situation you have with the 959. I’m not saying it’s guaranteed to fail, it may live forever. I’m also not saying that it will last longer if properly specced. My CLD-99 failed a PS and it’s only ever been used in the US and Canada.


HOWEVER! When you have a 120VAC device plugged into a 120VAC outlet (which is what you have with the HF9G) everything is fine and it would be pointless to change anything. The odds of the differences in the grounding/primary side aren’t likely to ever matter in any way.

Changing power supplies like this is just asking for trouble.
I remember reading about some who upgraded things in DVD players and it changes the power class from something like class 1 to class 2 when adding
ground plugs.

Since you are trying to change rather than buy a voltage converter you are just asking for trouble, and when you go to sell the player in 6 months when you get
bored of collecting LDs you can't sell the player without disclosing this has been massively modified and could start a fire.

Good luck

I don’t think it’s a bad idea to swap power supplies…necessarily, if you know why you are doing it and how to do it and what to explain to the next guy when you are inevitably going to get bored of LD and move on…then it all makes perfect sense.

In this case it’s ultra pointless work since you’re swapping in another item that does the same thing. While the odds of messing something up are low, the odds of improving anything are literally zilch. It cannot make anything better.

.Typical rein-o..has an opinion on everything ..nothing positive or useful to add..you are banished from my world


When I get Bored with LDs and Players/Transports?…when do you think that will happen?..you wanna make me an offer?
18 working players .2 with minor issues ,plus 2 Im close to fixing ,1 thats dead for good(the 7020)
And 2600 LDs ..its a new shelf unit I built and is a work in progress
See Pics

Just trying to gain knowledge ..electronics wise…Circuit Boards wont last forever ..the more I know ,the better..and much contradictory info on lddb..like what to clean lens with,.yea I know…one of many..Ive read where some think using a 100v player on 120v is bad for the unit..
Anyway../Thanks for your help signfzeta…
Enjoy your Turkey..rein-o…well ….

The voltage change happens in the transformer. Every other component around the transformer are for filtering, rectifying AC to DC and voltage regulation. Since this is a switching-mode design, there is also a chopper circuit to increase the AC frequency. Transformers works more efficiently with high frequency AC current. Switching is added to increase 50/60Hz current to above 20 kHz so they can use much smaller transformers. Your phone charger is probably upping the AC frequency to megahertz hence they are so tiny. This high frequency switching causes noise hence they use frequencies above human hearing, it can also leak into audio and video amplifiers and cause interference. Some low pass filter is used to remove this switching noise. That’s why switch-mode power supplies are a lot more complicated and have many components.

Although the transformers look identical, the markings are different. Use a multi meter to see if the secondary side Voltages are the same. Switch-mode allows easy voltage regulation. The chopper circuit can increase or decrease the duty cycle (Percentage of time the switch remains close each cycle). The filter circuit later on would average the Voltage. A feedback loop would constantly update the chopper to keep the average Voltage at desired levels. Most circuits design to operate within +/- 20% before any protection device will trigger. That’s 96V to 144V for the US. Your utility company is obligated to provide you 120V within +/- 5% (114V to 126V).

My point is that it is easier to design a power supply to work at 120VAC and it will also work at 100VAC. Pioneer did this with some designs. The Japanese units are labeled 100VAC as that is their standard. Now I did see some differences in parts missing in the Japanese supply and my comment was that Japanese unit grounding for the primary side of the supply is different than US standards. If you look at the capacitors and their voltage ratings are the same then it will work but it just doesn’t meet US standards. No one can answer your question completely until you give us the comparisons of the capacitors voltage and values.

It is also true that the higher the voltage the shorter the life so what is designed for the US market is a little over designed for the Japanese market.

There are electronics specifically made for 100VAC and those do need a step down transformer.

I love the picture of your cat, looks very happy and cute too

Thanks substance and krbahr…that was very informative….,,what was that you said rein-o?

Cute pic of your cat lounging

Looks happy too.