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cplusplus
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Post subject: [CLD-D925] Restoration and 120V Swap Posted: 19 Apr 2022, 14:25 |
Hardcore fan |
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Joined: 13 Aug 2018, 03:18 Posts: 1520 Has thanked: 449 times Been thanked: 588 times
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This player was likely kept outside for an extended period of time at some point, so I completely disassembled everything to properly clean it. Anything corroded that I had replacements for was replaced, but I definitely did not have this panel so I had to give it a good cleaning. Below is before: Attachment:
VNA1712.jpeg [ 102.45 KiB | Viewed 2131 times ]
The boards were in good shape aside from the connectors between boards (MAIN to DYMC and FLKY to PWSB) and the connectors on the back. I took care to clean them well. The shielding on the SCART assembly had a good amount of rust on it, so I de-soldered it to properly clean it. Below is after cleaning. Attachment:
VWV1470.jpeg [ 162.9 KiB | Viewed 2131 times ]
Disassembling the front, there was a good amount of grass clippings inside, but cosmetic condition is actually quite nice given the circumstances. Attachment:
CLD-D925_Front.jpeg [ 140.1 KiB | Viewed 2131 times ]
The humidity caused the Side B button to be finicky, so I replaced it. Without a spare, I probably would have tried contact cleaner on it. Here is what it looks like dissected if anyone is curious: Attachment:
CLD-D925_Button.jpeg [ 11.69 KiB | Viewed 2131 times ]
Finally, I swapped in a VWR1269-A so I would not need to step up voltage. Attachment:
VWR1269-A.jpg [ 130.45 KiB | Viewed 2131 times ]
The original CLD-D925 is mechanically switched, so with the VWR1269-A, the unit powers itself on when it is plugged in. It can then be powered off/on via remote. I'm fairly confident this player could be modded to change this behavior. Behind the power on button, there is an empty spot for a power button. I did not investigate to see what else what need to be done since I keep everything behind a switch. I extend my sincere thanks to petimaci for helping me add this to my collection!
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ldfan
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Post subject: Re: CLD-D925 Restoration and 120V Swap Posted: 20 Apr 2022, 00:18 |
Hardcore fan |
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Joined: 28 Jun 2014, 05:59 Posts: 1459 Location: San Francisco, CA USA Has thanked: 425 times Been thanked: 533 times
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cplusplus wrote: The original CLD-D925 is mechanically switched, so with the VWR1269-A, the unit powers itself on when it is plugged in.
That's odd for Pioneer. My Sony, DVP-NS900 has a similar design and I always found it odd as the only way to turn it on from standby without the remote is to hit play or eject. Kind of a nuisance to me.
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cplusplus
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Post subject: Re: CLD-D925 Restoration and 120V Swap Posted: 20 Apr 2022, 15:13 |
Hardcore fan |
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Joined: 13 Aug 2018, 03:18 Posts: 1520 Has thanked: 449 times Been thanked: 588 times
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ldfan wrote: That's odd for Pioneer. Indeed! I had looked at CLD-D925 schematics, but didn't notice the switch. It is the first component in the power supply. Likewise on the European DVL-909. I contemplated just adding in the switch to the 120V one, but it would not fit in the same location. If I get brave or bored in the future, I might try changing the standby behavior. What is interesting is the CLD-2950 does not have a mechanical switch, so I'm wondering why the change. Could this be due to some sort of new regulation introduced?
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laserfanhld-gb
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Post subject: Re: CLD-D925 Restoration and 120V Swap Posted: 20 Apr 2022, 20:13 |
Advanced fan |
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Joined: 28 Jun 2019, 18:26 Posts: 569 Location: UK Has thanked: 258 times Been thanked: 237 times
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cplusplus wrote: ldfan wrote: That's odd for Pioneer. Indeed! I had looked at CLD-D925 schematics, but didn't notice the switch. It is the first component in the power supply. Likewise on the European DVL-909. I contemplated just adding in the switch to the 120V one, but it would not fit in the same location. If I get brave or bored in the future, I might try changing the standby behavior. What is interesting is the CLD-2950 does not have a mechanical switch, so I'm wondering why the change. Could this be due to some sort of new regulation introduced? I think you could well be close with your assumption regarding new regs cplusplus as the European CE standard (if my memory serves correctly) came in around the mid 90s over here, so approximately somewhere between the end of 2950 production and the launch of the 925. My own 925 definitely has the CE mark on the rear panel but I don’t think my 2950 does but I’ll check later when I get in to my HC room. Btw I take my hat off to you guys with your restoration work on these players, very impressed indeed
_________________ Pioneer HLD-X9/CLD-925/CLD-2950 OPPO BDP-105D EU ARCAM AVR-600 JVC DLA-X7000BE Lumagen Radiance 2144
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laserfanhld-gb
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Post subject: Re: CLD-D925 Restoration and 120V Swap Posted: 21 Apr 2022, 19:58 |
Advanced fan |
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Joined: 28 Jun 2019, 18:26 Posts: 569 Location: UK Has thanked: 258 times Been thanked: 237 times
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cplusplus wrote: Interesting. I do not have CE on the back of my CLD-2950, but I saw an image of one with a CE sticker near the power cord. User manuals for both mention which standards they conform to, but I did not see anything specific to standby. I did, however, find this: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content ... 98Y0116(01) I’ve just been in to check mine and can confirm definitely no CE logo, but thinking back to my long since departed original 2950 purchased new in 1995 or 96 it did carry the mark, but obviously it was right at the end of the 2950 production run whereas my current player was manufactured in 1994. Unfortunately I couldn’t get the above link to work.
_________________ Pioneer HLD-X9/CLD-925/CLD-2950 OPPO BDP-105D EU ARCAM AVR-600 JVC DLA-X7000BE Lumagen Radiance 2144
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cplusplus
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Post subject: Re: CLD-D925 Restoration and 120V Swap Posted: 23 Apr 2022, 02:46 |
Hardcore fan |
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Joined: 13 Aug 2018, 03:18 Posts: 1520 Has thanked: 449 times Been thanked: 588 times
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laserfanhld-gb wrote: I believe the 925 is actually based on the 515? Indeed. Vast majority of CLD's '95 and later share same base. It doesn't look like the CLD-D515 is mechanically switched, so you could probably swap it into a CLD-R7G to make it 220-240V.
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